Valentin

I would avoid coiled rail - I don't know about code 40, but code 30 it's not prototypical (not flat bottom, nor bullhead) and it's a pain to straighten it. I used only code 30 for a narrow-gauge track and I straighten it using Mark Fielder's jig.

I can't believe something good came out of Brexit! This is a first for me. No import duty fees, nor Post Office charges! Exactly two weeks after placing my order with USOVO, the postman dropped the parcel on my doorstep. Is it luck, or will this be the norm for imports from EU?

There is a drawing at pages 30 and 31 in the "Davington Light Railway" book (2nd edition). The dimensions on the drawing are mostly illegible. Does anyone know of a better quality / higher resolution drawing?

Hello Sam, I'm afraid the J94 model is on its way to Mike. Hopefully he will make good use of it.

Regarding the milling cutters I understand that the 'uncoated' ones are for machining non-ferrous materials. There are mainly two types: HSS and solid carbide, the latter being approx. twice the price. Apart from having a longer life, are there any other advantages of a carbide cutter, when used to mill small brass rods and bars?

PM sent.

Hello Mike, I wanted to send the below as a private message; then I thought maybe other fine scale modellers, more experienced than me, could bring more information for you to make an educated decision, so I am replying here. I am happy to post the locomotive to you, but I don't want you to be dissapointed - I would categorize the current state of the model as a "non-runner". This conversion is not for an absolute beginner to 2FS, and some work is required to have it satisfactory running: the middle axle wheels require quartering the connecting rods need to be held in place by a washer (or other means) to the crank pins fitted to the wheels pick-up P/B wires will have to be soldered to the PCB keeper plate there is a big chance the motor will not run smooth, a better one might be required (I am happy to add, free of charge, a new, so called "Graham Farish clone motor") fitting the body to the chassis requires some work Regards, Valentin

Hi Julia, Are those two brass components in your picture the 6mm OD x 1mm pitch 'trapezoidal thread' anti-backlash nuts sourced from China you mentioned in a previous post?

Hey Mike, This is an old Graham Farish (GRAFAR, Poole) 1:148 scale model. The wheels are finescale. If your track is not built according to 2FS standards, this little engine won't reliably run on "Peco-like" rails.

Not an exchange, but a sale. Is anyone interested to purchase this old Grafar 0-6-0ST Austerity / J94? I am thinking £25 with free shipping. The chassis wasn't running very smoothly before dismantling it. The driving gear is new, as is the detailing kit from RT Models. The wheels are from the late Neil Ballantine. My plan was to replace the motor, as Mark explained in the "Whatever happened to British Oak?" post, but I am no longer interested in this conversion. All the components in the picture below are included.

After ordering and receiving this gear, I can confirm that it is a direct replacement for the gear used in the 0-6-0ST / J94 Farish chassis.

And you could get a motorized chassis from Narrow Garage.

I have the same chassis, with the same Neil Ballantine wheels. A while ago, I managed to melt the driving gear. Could anyone confirm this is a 25 teeth gear and if I can replace it with the "GF2502 - 25 Tooth Gears for Diesel Bogies"? If so, I would replace the motor, too.

The first thing I noticed after filling in the delivery address was a reduction in price, from €108.99 to €91.59, most likely the German VAT. I shall see how this 'translates' at the Post Office.

Are the bearings supplied with the new spindle a better quality than the existing ones? Is it worth replacing them?

I knew the collets are not part of the USOVO sale. The plan is to get them from this trader.

I am determined to get ER11 collets for my Proxxon MF70. First step is to get one of the tunning spindles from USOVO. As the serial number on my machine is well above 22852, I was literally "one click away" from ordering the "Tuning spindle for Proxxon MF70 (with a serial number > = 22852)" when I remembered this post. Below are some pictures of the spindle in my milling machine. I can't see a simple way to remove the bearings in the body. The mod is not cheap at €109 + P&P's. Am I safe in assuming the spindle advertised by USOVO for my serial number will fit the machine?

At 45,000 RPM, aren't they too "speedy"?

What kind of blowtorch would be most suitable for soldering together two strips of 0.7 - 1 mm brass for building locomotive frames? Will it work for soldering P/B bearings to a square bar of 5 - 6 mm brass?

Is it safe for a mill to be used as a saw? As in cutting, with a slow, constant X / Y movement, 0.7mm P/B sheet.

Best soldering tool I have ever had - and I begun using a soldering iron when I was 8. Being able to set the tip temperature to as low as 50 ºC is priceless!

I would say it is. In my opinion, there is not much to learn about 3D printing - the 3D printer does the "heavy lifting". It is much more important to learn how to design a model - probably three quarters of creating a model is 3D design.

Maybe not photogenic, but a very elegant solution to reduce the throw; this prevents putting stress on the joints between the blades and the tiebar due to the twicth occuring when powering up the servos. It also helps when adjusting the angle values in the Arduino sketch.

Same here

There is a new version of Chitubox, v1.8.0 Beta, released about a week ago, with island detection support. I wonder how precise this is.