Valentin

This has just left my workbench and now I am working on the "Fence Houses Model Foundry" Universal 0-6-0 Chassis (8' + 8'6" w/b for 10mm dia. wheels): And my work proves that the quartering is not an easy job as I thought after successfully quartering my first 0-6-0 chassis (Association's J94 / Austerity replacement chassis).

The motor is now fitted to my J94 chassis. After some consideration I have chosen to mount the motor to the chassis using the most simpler way (KIS is better), recommended in the instructions. And, to my surprise, my skills aren't so bad as the chassis actually run smoothly "ish" (more tracks and wheels cleaning is required) At this point, my questions are: Is any easy way to paint in black only the visible parts of the chassis? Shall I use a primer? About the wheels, can I paint them black while they are fitted to the chassis? I really don't like the idea to remove them for blackening...

This is how I intend to attach the Association motor to the J94 replacement chassis (would be a better idea to use epoxy glue?) I tried first to fit the motor to the bracket (scrap brass) using two screws but I ended up by damaging the thread so I chose to solder it: I have to shorten the front motor axle first, using a piercing saw; any chance to damage to the motor? From where can I get some good screwdrivers for 16 to 10 BA screws?

After drilling the wholes for the screws I've removed the guiding tabs and now the resistance is infinite.

I am building the 2mm Association Replacement Chassis for the Graham Farish LMS 3F (Jinty) 0-6-0T locomotive. Before fitting the front PCB spacer I have checked it for short-circuits ant the resistance, on the 200 Mohms scale was infinite. Then I soldered it to the frames, removed the frames from the jig: and checked the resistance again: 1.6 Mohms: Is this correct?

Hi, Earlier today I've found (Google has found) this website: Somersham. I don't think is 2mm but I liked the idea for the TOUs.

I don't think my first attempt in building a 2mm etched kit deserves to be mentioned but, in case it helps, a few pictures of my SR buffer-stop: SR Buffer-Stops

Thank you, Chris. No, I didn't know they are upside down. I didn't assume they are correctly positioned either. Definitely I'll check photographs and plans before fitting them permanently. Until then, I have to study about painting Ni-Ag.

Thank you! I followed your advice and, after only about 20' of work, both rods were fitted to the wheels which are spinning very smoothly. I am very pleased, this is my first try in wheels quartering and it looks like it is not a complicated process at all.

Thanks Tim. It's gone. I've removed it together with another one before fixing it inside the frame.

At the latest Canterbury Area Group meeting, thanks to Nick, I understood exactly how all the transmission inside the chassis works. As a result, I have ordered more stuff from Shop 3 and I progressed a bit with my Hunslet Austerity chassis. All the gears and muffs are imperial; yes, Nick, I have ordered and received the 14T (bore 1/8") code 3-341, so I do not need to use the stepped muff and all the metric gears (spears for a future project). 3-362 is the gear set but here is pictured the gear only, without worm 3-110 are stubs, cut from the 75 mm long axle; there are two stubs inserted in the muff which don't touch each other (no short-circuit)

Very useful information about the quartering for which I thank you. Now, small progress with my chassis. I cut the worm in half and, with a little adjustment, I managed to fix it in place. Same with the gear.

Can the quartering be achieved without using the quartering tool? Here are some photographs of my J94 chasis:

Thank you for your kind comments! Don, I forgot to mention that I did check for shorts before starting wiring the rails. And I've found a few shorts, including a common crossing.

Slowly, slowly I managed to finish with the track laying. All the track and the turnouts are in position, glued with PVA to the baseboard. I used a small Graham Farish wagon, converted to 2mm standards to test the track by slightly tipping and taping the baseboard, and everything looks to be fine. And I have just started with the electrics. Actually, half of the rails are already wired. The next step will be to build the controller and make the real track test by running the converted Class 24.

I've finished with the turnouts. The next step, after taking the whole assembly off the Sundeala board, will be to cut all the gaps in the rails and, using an ohmmeter, check for short-circuits. I'd like to highlight the usefulness of the roller gauges and the Bar file 0.020" thick for installing the switch blades / wing rails. I In my opinion one can survive without jigs or other helpers, but these gauges are absolutely the bare necessities for turnout building. And the result: Now, the BIG challenge: the TOUs. I really need to make up my mind and chose a very simple TOU, probably using a slipper and fuse wire...

Yes, all supplies are coming from the 2mm FS Association shop. @all: Thank you for your kind comments. @Jerry: Indeed I am quite pleased about how the track flows. I am very careful during the soldering process and I test the laid track quite often using a converted 5 plank wagon.

I really enjoy building the turnouts using the PCB timbers. Even more, I started to experiment new construction methods. I've chosen to make all four points in one go, on a Sundeala board then transfer the whole assembly to the plywood baseboard. I still wonder if this is a good approach... Some photos with my progress: Next step will be to install the switch blades and check rails (six pieces of each).

I am interested in your TOU and I think some photos will help a lot. Thank you,

Thank you for your comments! Definitely I can not say that they are not suitable for a beginner. I've followed the instructions and the result was ok but far from perfect. It's just I like more soldering and I wasn't very happy working with Mek-Pak and Epoxy... But I'm not quite the right person to say it's easy or not building Easitrac turnouts; after all, I built only one...

Not very pleased with my previous attempts in building the tracks and points for my layout I have recently decided to take it from the beginning. I will go ahead using the same track-plan, made using Templot, by Keith AAndrmes: For the baseboard I purchased a new, good quality, 1/4" thick plywood cut to size (4' x 1'1") which has been nailed onto the old frame (saved after removing the original ply board). I have decided to build the turnouts off site, on a Sundeala board. Because all four are very close to each other I thought it might be easier to build them in the same time and not one by one. This way all the rails will flow smoothly. I glued the track plan to the Sundeala board using the 3M Spray Mount. I made an A6 Easitrac turnout but I have to admit I didn't enjoy building it like I enjoyed building them using the classic "rails soldered to PCB timbers" method so I'm going to re-build all the turnouts using my soldering iron. I stuck all the PCB timbers I've got onto the track plan using double-sided adhesive tape then I started the work which I enjoy most: soldering. Below is a comparison between the new made turnout (left) and one of my first attempts (right). One can notice the bigger (and not so prototypical) gap between the stock and the check rails. I am quite pleased with my new built turnout and it looks like my skills have improved.

Although I've been a member of the 2mm Fine Scale Association for only an year I am definitely a beginner in building tracks and turnouts. I've tried the Easitrac system and rail soldered directly to the PCB timbers onlybut I'd like to try Versaline sometimes. I can say that I found the PCB turnout construction easier than Easitrac and much enjoyable; and, for a shunting yard, I'd say it isn't so important to have that prototypical daylight given by raising the rail on the timbers. What I still need to experiment in track building? TOUs. The tiebar from a PCB slipper looks like is the easiest to build. I tried the fuse wire coiled on a PCB slipper in vertical plan and it looks better and maybe, reliable. My problem is to find an easy to build Turnout Operation Unit (what's underneath the baseboard) - I'm still studying... @Jerry: a few photos of your tie-bars / TOU assembly would help a lot. Anyway, thank you for the description.

Highbury Colliery is in the MRJ 212, as well