Valentin

Mark, I built all my Nn3 narrow gauge track using solder balls (I don't remember the size but I know it's the same as the size recommended in "The Track" book. I am very pleased with the results. For some reason solder paste does not work for me on any kind of soldering work and I use solder paint only for tining the bottom of the rails or the etched brass and N/S overlays.

I'm sure other users will have plenty of tips for you; mine is to get yourselves the best possible tweezers, like these ones.

I have thoroughly studied then built many of the U/J desctribed here and in the handbook (the only one I have never tried is the "Branchlines"). I am sure there is something wrong with my skills as I couldn't make any of them to run satisfactory. That's why I am happy to give a try to another type of U/J. The only UJ I made and I was very happy with it until it broke, was a modified N Brass.

Hi Nigel, I'm glad you opened this thread. I know the Association have plans for producing a 3D printed Universal Joint. Do you know when this will be available to order? Thank you,

I am so looking forward to get the Graham Farish Class C so I can replace mine (Alan Cox body kit on Fence Houses chassis):

Ian, what's preventing you in using low melt solder (70°) and a temperature controlled soldering iron at this stage?

Since I discovered the solder balls a few years ago, I never looked back at any other way for soldering the rails to the PCB timbers As recommended in the "Track" book I bought this of eBay: Ant here is one of the turnouts i built very recently: Out of curiosity, why are you trimming the timber after soldering the rails?

Thank you for all the information provided.

Hello and Happy New Year to all! I have tried to subscribe to the "2mmNn3" Yahoo! Group by emailing the owner a week ago but no reply yet. I can see there has been no activity for over four years and I was wondering if anyone here can advise if the group is no longer maintained (I was most interested to see the photo albums).

Many thanks, Jan. As you mentioned, I've found all the information I needed here (Fig. 13, and Fig. 14).

Could anyone post a photo of the Association's "Turnout Blade filing jig" (1-230)? Is this jig suitable for filing the blades for all turnout types (1 in 6, 1 in 7, etc)? Thank you,

Thank you all for your input. First I will try and use the simplest solution, just a bolt and, probably a spring (like those used inside the mechanical ball-pens, but much shorter) to push the bogie downward. If the running and / or pulling performance is poor, I will probably rebuild the chassis from P/B, as a 0-4-2-2, and drive the rear pair of driving wheels (I've choosen to drive the first pair, as I coppied the design of the replacement chassis for the M7, but I disregard the advice to build it as a 0-4-2-2).

I am attempting to build a SECR Class H from a reduced 4mm Jidenco Kit. I am at the stage where I have to join the trailing bogie to the main chassis (see the pictures below). What would be the best approach? From this: To this: Thank you,

Hello, Would this type of rolling road be suitable for our models? If not, what do you recommend? Regards,

Hi Chris, Any news about the availability of these mounts in the Shop?

Bill, do you have more information about these wagons? Thank you,

Thanks, Bill. The confusion is my fault. Indeed, the wagons have nothing to do with the bridge construction. About the line, if I am not wrong in interpreting Anghel Saligny's (the very same with the engineer who designed the bridge in the first post) aquarelle below, it wasn't temporary but the Cernavoda harbour branch of the DBSR line.

Similar bulk grain wagons were used on the Rusciuk - Varna Railway, in Bulgaria: Built in 1866, length over buffers: 18' 6", wheelbase: 9' 0", and a capacity of 6 tons. I'm not quite sure but I think this picture was taken at the Railway Museum in Ruse, Bulgaria. Would the information here help to better identify the wagons in my first post?

Hello, The picture below was taken in 1893, during the construction of the "King Carol I" bridge over the Danube river at Cernavoda, Romania. Building started in 1890 and the bridge was inaugurated in 1895. The wagons in the foreground, of British construction, were used on "Danube and Black Sea Railway" (opened in 1860), built by British engineers (John Trevor Barkley and Henry C. Barkley); more details here. After the Romanian War of Independence (1877-1878) the Ottoman Empire passed the Northern Dobruja to the Romanian side and DBSR became part of "Caile Ferate Romane" - CFR (the Romanian Railways) in 1882. Could anyone help in identifying these wagons?

Thank you, Jim. The chassis had been thoroughly cleaned with Cif and toothbrush but the white-metal castings were not. After a good cleaning of these, all the components are staying together with no danger of coming apart. Another question, for the LNWR enthusiasts: the early open, and the covered goods wagons were fitted with 3-bolt round base buffers, grease filled axle-boxes, and wooden brake block shoes. Probably the most suitable buffers are 2-072 "Wagon buffers (turned brass) 2.1mm head, round base". Are the other components (axle-boxes, and brake shoes) available in the 2mm SA shop, or elsewhere?

I am trying to glue one spring / axle box pair (both white-metal castings) using cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) to the 2-330 wagon chassis. Removing them seems to be quite easy. What other kinds of glue other people are using?

Hello, I question related to the wagon wheels: The 2-326, 2-327, and many other underframe etched kits, mostly list the following type of suitable wheels: The 2mm SA Yearbook mentions only the 2-010 / 6mm 8-spoke wagon wheels (12.25mm axle) The 2mm SA website mentions only the 2-015 / 6mm open spoke wagon wheels (12.25mm axle) I know the difference between the two types of wheels but is there any rule (depending on when the wagon was built, or by which company) to apply for the PO wagons?

Jim, I know you're using the AJ coupling system so the hook and plate assembly is not in the way. Is this true for the DG, and BB coupling systems?

Thanks, Jim. Here is v2.0 And a side view: I am going to remove the "V" hangers but what shall I do with the fixing point (I am not sure this is the right name) located on the sole bar between the brake shoe and the "V" hanger? Is a good idea to blacken or spray with black primer the chassis at this stage or, better, solder the DG couplings first? What's the best practice: to solder or glue the couplings?

Is this brake gear ok for a wagon dated before 1900? One brake shoe only.