Job's Modelling

Read the letter I found that Arhtur had written on his daughter's Olivetti typewriter:

You have already met Arthur Page (47) who lives in Caroline Street, although not properly introduced by me. So here is some more information about him to make him more alive: Arthur is born in Farthing - Wiltshire. He comes from a railway family. His father was a loco driver who regularly drove a loco along the freight line to Northall Dock. He started as a young led at Northall Goods Depot when he was 16 years old. So he is working for British Railways for more than thirty years. Arthur travels many miles with the Austin 3way van in Northall and the surrounding villages. He is very fond of the vehicle in spite of being heater-less and the toxic fumes he inhales from the engine in the cab. Apart from those obvious defects, Arthur is pleased that it has wind-up windows and a stylish but cheerful looking 'face'. The 3way van was very practical in use Not only in the 1950’s daily working by British Railways and other users. But also for me taking pictures of diliveries in Northall, because I don’t have to model open back doors or side doors. The car received a coat of Vallejo 76515 Light grey wash to dim the shining appearance. The wheels and black parts received a coat with Vallejo black wash. The underside and the wheels received a coat of Vallejo 76521 Oiled Earth wash. The wheels and some parts of the car are additionally weathered with some Vallejo paints and pigments. Background information: Work on the K8 as it was called in its prototype form, started in early 1946. But it soon became known as the 'Three-Way' van owing to its arrangement of double doors on both the nearside and offside, as well as at the rear, providing excellent access to the loading bay. It was a very forward looking design with its curved front and high driving position, making the visibility excellent compared to the competition. Production commenced early in 1947. Various changes had been made from the prototypes, which included the radiator grille, front bumper, access steps along with the wheels. The forward control cab gave good visibility a partition with window separates the cab from the steel body, with composite doors and toughened glass. The body had a timber frame with steel sheets attached, even the doors had a wooden frame. The large front windows gave a good view of the road, the driver’s side could be opened. Both the front doors had wind-down widows. So from the first vehicles been produced in 1947 to the last one coming off the line on September 1954 a total of over 26,500 had been made. This entry was made with the help of http://www.austinmemories.com/page67/page75/page75.html Kind regards, Job

Both loco's look extraordinary. I like the pictures of both loco's. Looking forward to see them in one of your "layouts".

I was more thinking of something like this:

I love these small loco's. Can not wait to see the finished loco. What was the use of this loco by the GWR in Farthing?

Small low relief Manor Building

This is a great entry. Condolences with your lost. I agree with you that modeling helps to get the mind empty, which helps us to cope with daily life problems and lost. For my modelling helps me in this way to. Your modeling is of an exceptional high quality.That counts also for your photo's.

Thanks Mikkel, I believe it is still possible to improve my building and painting possibilities. So there is some challenge for my new project. I have some idea's, but I have to work them out. Nice pictures of Cardiff. Liked the bookstore.

Thanks, Snitzl The gate is indeed a great texture from Model Railway Scenery's factory wall's kit. Adding some rusty pigments gave it just the little bit more realistic look. The net curtains came from several kits from Scalescenes, so I could give every cottage it's own "personal" look.

The starting point. For the painting of the figures I started with some research on internet. For my the right colors for clothing are a part of a good time based layout or diorama. Even for the dog I searched for a picture. The figures are painted with Vallejo paint and for the cardigan of the girl I used a color from the Citadel range. The chair is card build and is from the Furniture kit of Fine Scale Buildings and colored with some paint. The newspaper is also part of this Furniture kit. My pictures on the RMweb are a little bit misleading. The show more than an actual viewer of the diorama can see in the APA-box. To give you an impression I made a fake picture of an APA-box view. And to give you an impression of the real A4 size look at the picture below. And I made some extra pictures for my own use. And this is one of my favourites: For now the journey is ended. I have cleaned up the leftovers from my used textures and the design box to start a new journey. I hoped you like the result and will follow me on my next building project. Any comments, suggestions are additional information is welcome. Kind regards, Job

Hi, Mikkel. It isn't necessary to town the green down, because in the APA-box it will not be so prominent visible as in the picture above. The total impression will change again when I have painted the figures. Because the have now just a primed surface the "fall away" in the scene. And I'm glad I managed to create an urban industrial look.

Thanks for your encouraging comment. Gives my some courage to start with the painting of my figures.

The starting point. I built the factory yard wall in the front. Actually this is just straight forward modelling. I used the 6’ Industrial Wall and Gates from Railway Model Scenery a starting point. This is really a nice kit with a beautiful old wall texture. The colour of the wall didn’t fit to my industrial building. For the wall I used the same brick texture as for the Printing Works. The templates from this kit were used. I also decided to use the metal gate from the kit. I think this is just great. The wall copings are also from this kit. Next time I will use some thinner paper for this. Because I liked to try out some green for my urban diorama’s I searched on the internet for some usable products. Because of the postal cost I searched for a Dutch supplier. I found some nice products by a supplier for war-game materials. The product I have used are from miniNatur. I bought some long and shorts tufts for the seasons summer, early and late fall. The can be applied with some glue and a tweezer. After my first use I’m enthusiastic about the quality and the appearance. I have seen they have also other useful products, but that is for the future. The dustbin is from Dart Castings and the weathering is done in my usual way, with pastels and pigments. Below a picture of scene so far. I have given the figures a coat of primer and have still to paint them. I also have to build a chair for the sitting man. I hoped you like the result. Any comments, suggestions are additional information is welcome. Kind regards, Job

Thanks Paul, for the compliment. Still have to learn to work in 2 mm.

The starting point. In the picture above the row was almost finished. Now I have finished them. Below you can see the final result. Maybe it is nice to give an overview over the used materials. Ø Wall textures are printed Hahnemühle William Turner 190 gsm textured Fine Art photo paper. This is 100% cotton. In real the brickwork actually has a nice texture and the color is just great. This is my favourite printing paper for brickwork. Ø Doors are printed on Hahnemühle Photo Rag188 gsm. Also 100% cotton smooth Fine Art photo paper. This paper is more difficult to work with but is in my opinion great for photographic windows and doors. Weathering only can be done with sanded Schmincke soft pastels and a soft brush. Ø For the other textures I used Lana 150 gsm drawing paper. Ø Chimney pots are from Dart Casting and the latest for with Vallejo paint. They are all weathered with pigments and Schmincke soft pastels to get a more realistic terracotta stone effect. Ø For the drainpipes I used some Evergreen round plastic parts surrounded with a Scalescenes texture. Personally I found the roof this time the most difficult part. Below a picture of the final scene. I have given the figures a coat of primer and have still to paint them. I also have to build a chair for the sitting man. I forgot to put the dog in the scene, next to the drainpipe and the end of the row. But he is also to be paint. I hoped you liked the entries about the building of my row of cottages and the final result. I now can go on with some card modelling for the factory yard wall in the front. As usual if anyone has useful information, comments or suggestions please let me know. Thanks for reading and till next time. Kind regards, Job

Nice to see the layout this way. Looks good.

Thanks, Steve. Using reference pictures and looking to the work of other modelers (not only railways or the RMweb) helps me to create the atmosphere.

Thanks, I supposed the same, It is more the way I had it in mind when I designed the row of cottages.

The starting point. Last time I showed you the above picture. For now a quick progress entry. First of all I will thank everyone for his comment and positive support. So I started again. Using the templates from the Scalescenes small cottages. In this way I have only vertical lines. I added already some drainpipes made from 1,6mm rods from Evergreen and a drainpipe texture from one of the Scalescenes kits. I coloured them brown with a pastel pencil. I also added an “Anno” stone from Vector Cut. I coloured it with pastels and pigments using a soft brush, until I was satisfied with the colour. The doors are weathered again using a soft brush and some scraped soft neutral grey pastel from Schmincke. On the left you can see how I want to create the final windows using curtain textures from Scalescenes. I tried painting the edges of the windows and the doors with Vallejo paint and this was successful. So I will use this method also for the other windows. I also gave the roofs some wood supports. I hope the look better now. And remember the cottages will only be visible to the most right large window. The doors at the right won't be visible. When I have finished the windows I can glue the front in place and start finishing the front. I hope you agree with me that this is a more convincing result. As usual if anyone has useful information, comments or suggestions please let me know. Thanks for reading and till next time and kind regards, Job

I decided to build a new front because both, the direct viewing and the photo, are not the standard I want to achieve.

Thanks for your nice comment and your suggestion. I use the "mirror" effect for my background sky. Your suggestion is not possible for the Scalescenes textures, because the are secured PDF's Could be very useful for some textures I have downloaded from CG-textures.

I have started already with a new front. I agree with you about the colors and the texture. Will also try some different card for the windows. This is all part of my modelling process and trying to achieve best result. I won't through away this front, so I can also use this one for the time being. There are some possibilities to make the total appearance better, but I prefer to build another one. Must put my diorama more often in the APA-box to see what is really visible.

The mean difference for my is the quality of the colors and texture using high quality textured photo paper. I have to admit it has also so disadvantages. But that's a part of the journey. I also liked to work with high quality water color paper and that also worked out very well. I think in the future I will use different types of paper for different parts of the building. For instance to create layered doors and windows I have to use a good quality of drawing paper and not photographic paper. The smooth photographic paper worded well for the windows in the factory and the background building.

Thanks for the comment. My printer doesn't print at card or thick photo papers. So I have to do some wrapping. But the Textured photo papers give also a nice result for color ant texture. And thanks for the suggestion to use a buttress between two cottages. I will see if I need to use it. I thought about stone lintels but wanted to try brick ones. Using the Scalescenes fronts I don't heave that problem. I will use your suggestion to glue some coffee sticks behind the roofs to give them some more stiffness. Next time I will use some thicker card,

These are some beautiful cars.