33212

Indeed, part P..my bad. The DS was happy for the loft to be used as a railway room as it was not classed as a permanent habitable room in his mind, as it does not have a fixed staircase or space for a bed etc and all of the roof structure remained as built then, and still does, so being a reasonable professional I am sure he found the middle ground compromise, due to me putting in the means of escape (I could go out across the roof and down if needed) - this was 15 years ago so maybe things have changed...no doubt they have, but I fully advocate the use of a loft for a railway, a great use of a generally under utilised space in British housing.

Well, having actually completed a DIY loft conversion, from an unuseable, uninsulated space, to a useable, insulated space, with a velux signed off by the DS (who was happy with the workmanship) and had the whole house, including the electrics I put in (remember you could do your own installations then without sign off) the loft and the rest if the house were part C certified just last year following an extension build, I am more than happy that I am not about to meet any problems. Re electrics, you can install your own today, you just need a tame electrician to test and connect up, and issue a part C certificate. Not sure if you are just an internet armchair know-it all or have actaully done anything "handy" but when my loft was done in 2003, 15 years ago, I was satisfied with my workmanship, that I was not endangering myself, my wife or the property and still am today. If you wish to do a conversion today, seek professional advice - there, does that satisfy the "compliance police" ??

Just ro add a little more, in my loft, I could stand with all my weight on one joist and bounce up and down, with no movement, there is a load bearing wall running down the midddle roughly. I added extra depth to add strength, I was advised to do this by my uncle who was a quantity surveyor by trade and had built houses etc, as long as the new wood goes over the wall and is screwed in to the joists and side of the rafters, it adds strength, so I was advised. I probably did not need to do it. If you take a cross section through the loft, adding flooring, boards, track and trains only adds a kilo or two per square metre - the heaviest thing up there will be you, all your weight on a square foot or so, so as long as your floor can take your weight without droopy ceilings then you should be good to go. Avoid stacking magazines or books too, massive weight in a concentrated area. Just spread it all out, lots of legs / supports.. Matt

Page updated October 2021 as the previous 'starter' page is out of date and no longer describes the updated plans for the layout. London Knightsbridge: To set the scene, I live in Kent and as a teenager in the 1980's, used my paper-round money to buy, on a Saturday, either an East Kent railrover, or a Capitacard, both supported by the Railriders club vouchers. Myself and friends would travel on the loco hauled 'Cross London' services to and from Dover Western Docks and spot at all the Kent hotspots, Dover Town Yard, Faversham, Ashford and Ramsgate. The highlight was the Capitalcard trips to London, where we'd meander round to all the termini, most of which had loco hauled services, the depots at Old Oak Common, Willesden, Stratford were regulars for breaking and entering. Exotic lines were visited such as the DMU operated Gospel Oak-Barking, the grotty 2-EPB operated North London and West London line etc, London's railways were very different in the mid to late 80's than they are today, the red and blue NSE paint brightened things up a bit but much was run down and stank of diesel fumes! So the model then, the premise is that there was another cross London route built, connecting to the southern in the Battersea area, allowing access to the various southern region routes, and to the north connecting via a Y junction onto the north London, allowing access to western, midland and eastern regions. The main station on the route is a station at Knightsbridge, which serves commuter traffic to and from the southern, a DMU service onto the north London and cross London intercity traffic, and loads of freight. Basically, it allows me to model what I saw in Kent and London at the time. The layout is the third in the loft, the first being German HO layout, this was dismantled and sold off several years ago, the second was a stalled version of what I am trying to achieve with this one, it failed because I smothered the boards with track, and the main boards were built under the eaves, so to operate you had to kneel down and reach in, it became a chore to operate, never got to the ballasting stage let alone scenery, then the building of an extension to the house took up my time, it stayed unused for about three years mostly, although I did continue to accumulate stock and so last year I stripped it all out and this page will now document the third time lucky layout - totally fictitious and set in grotty 1980's London.

I am a loft dweller. Started in 2003 by strengthening the floor joists by adding lengths of 2x2 to the top of each, screwed through, ends just on to the walls. Once completed, filled the floor voids with insulation. Next was to fit a roof Velux "means of escape" top hinged window, did this myslef, and building inspector signed off - if they ask what the loft is to be used for just say storage, as long as you use a ladder to gain access..if you fit stairs then many more regs kick in. Don't alter any structural beams or remove joists, this sets inspectors alarm bells ringing. I then bought the rolls of insulation bubble stuff and stapled over the ceiling rafters in horizontal, overlapping, as per instructions, basically if you get a drip of water or condensation, it will run down and out over the eves. Also, I left a gap of 1cm at the top of the ridge, either side to allow the roof space tp breathe - yes I get a bit of cold air blowing in but it keeps the roof space dry. Once complete, i screwed very thin ply over the top, and painted the whole lot white. Fitted a ring main (you could then, you can now if you get part C sign off) otherwise its a sparky job but will cost peanuts compared to model railways! I then built my boards, at 18 inches off the floor, so have to sit on a low stool or kneel down, a compromise as this gives me, in a rectangle, 80 feet x 4 feet of board space - obviously the higher up the roof you go the less board space. During the summer months, I lock the roof window open a crack which lets the roof breathe, its never too hot, I also have a large fan to circulate the warm air! In winter I have an oil filled radiator for initial use, but with the hatch open it soon warms up. Any problems, - yes I did not put enough support framing under the boards on some, so have some "undulations" here and there. The 18" height is great for space on top but a pain in the A for getting wires through underneath, so use one of those grap things. Avoid locating sidngs in direct line with the window to avoid fading stock, I bought a blind for mine in the end. Also put to window on the shady side of the roof if there is one. Plus points - as secure as the rest of your house, 100 times more secure than a shed and the wife can't get up there! Never had any issues with stock being too hot or melted! Minus points - temperature variations, its not a steady 20, never goes lower than 15 but can get up to 28 without the window open, but soon cools off with it open, create a through draft with another window works. Would I use a loft again? Yes

Hi Braved the cold in the loft for a bit and issue resolved...thanks for the advice, Cheers Matt

Many thanks, will have a go in the next day or two, Cheers Matt

Hello, Stupid question time. I have a set 100 with LH100 handset. I have used the function buttons 1-9 with various chips, but recently bought a sound loco and it has loads of functions. What I cannot fathom out is, is how to operate say function 12! I have read the instructions book that came with it some 10years or more ago and following that, still cannot get it to display what I think it should. I am sure I am just being thick!, any help appreciated, Cheers Matt

So, I got another, good service from Kernow, good price, good model, better than I could make from a kit..just need to get some more track down and do some soldering then I can give one a good thrash. Thank you Hornby.

When I get time, I will paint the yellow bits on the inside edge of the gangway black, and also pick out the black (dirt) line on the outside, comparing the two images above, there is too much yellow around the gangway area which highlights the incorrect depth even more. The blue grey vep runs much better than my NSE, so with the above, it is for me, more than acceptable.

Preiser have just announced some OO people, some look suitable...

In advance of picking mine up from Faversham, spot on delivery date from Hornby, changed a few times but accurate to the day in the end, thank you. I am sure the BG Vep will be great, hopefully corrected some issues from the first release (my NSE now runs really well after being thrashed (run in) for a year). The model is better than I could build a kit so happy all round. Matt

So, are they here?

Can't help,thinking that manufacturers box themselves into a corner by going into agreements with retailers as far as having ownership of the hardware i.e. tooling etc. With most loco types being manufactured, and in some cases more than one version being available, items such as the 3H, which once may have been considered a one off or specialist model, should now really be considered a mainstream item. That status could also apply to many other emu and sum types not even planned yet. The way to make money from the tooling is to have full control over it and have it in the catologue for years to come, just produce smallish runs of models, and rotate the livery each year, as other people like Roco and Fleischmann do. Some years, they even left the livery the same, just changed the running number. I would prefer that retailers just do commissions of liveries, such as one offs, and leave the manufacturers to do the more run of the mill stuff. I appreciate that, in some cases, we would not now have some RTR models that we do if the above was applied.. Matt

Thought that, but there is a label in it stating it is chip fitted....might have to take it apart.. Thanks for reply Matt

I bought a knock down price 3588, I think, from a prominent west country retailer ages ago, and have only just got round to opening the box and getting it ready. When the MBS is on the programming track, all hell lets loose, it crashes the dcc and sits there screeching, I cannot interogate the chip even. On the mainline, the screeching continues, but I can get it to move using 0000 as the code. If this was not bad enough, two of the couplings have bits missing so I cannot even join the bits up. I have not the time to read through the 61 pages if the topis, is this common or have I been sold a pup? I know the units have their problems.... Thanks in advance Matt

Having slept on it, have had another staring session at the photos above, and the new model does actually look better now, the shape is more rounded, pity about the printed on bits though. Still not intending to replace what I have mk1 wise though, especially as the 33/1 and 33/2 are correct profile wise.

Hmm, Not too impressed to be honest, the cab window surrounds look too chunky, side grilles too chunky and printed detail? The general shape looks wrong to me, maybe I am too used to the old model now, which was a step change, I replaced a dozen Lima 33's with a dozen Mk1 Heljan, will I be replacing the Mk1's with Mk2's, nope. However, if they bring out a decent version, such as 33023 with white roof and red beams...will get one.. Matt

Hello I am a loft dweller, my boards are 15 inches off the floor, this gives me the benefit of a massive layout space. I operate sitting down on a low stool, its a little helicopter like but i prefer this to having a smaller space. Do whatever is best for you, i am 40 and mobile so leaping about is not an issue, if your older, or intend to keep this layout until your time is up, make it future proof... Matt

So whats to stop Heljan releasing some new class 33's of their own. I personally love these models, yes the /0 has a slight roof impairment but this goes with weathering, and the /1 & /2 are correct. They are streets ahead of the old Lima and regurgitated railroad version and are good value. I'd like a 33023 please with red bufferbeam and white roof, and 008 in its first version of green i.e. No white band and headlight.

Certainly no ceps were painted jaffa after NSE arrived, and the crompton is 33008 "Eastleigh" in green - no bagpipes... Matt

Hello, I think train sets and model railways are two separate entities. Train sets are for children and those new to the hobby who are just finding their way around, and a model railway is one step up in that it is probably more prototypical in appearance and operation, so would more likely to be end to end, or have a fiddle yard off scene if it was based on a through station.. Regards Matt

Hello, I am waiting for a blue grey one....Hornby can manufacture one better than I could ever hope to get from a kit.....I can put up with a few errors. Matt

Any news on a blue grey vep???

Hello, being a bit of a nerd, I checked the Six Bells Junction website, the tour above was Pathfinders The Scrummager 2.1 on 19th Feb 1994. Tour locos were 31408 & 31456 with 37903 featuring later.... http://www.sixbellsjunction.co.uk/ hope this helps Matt