farren

I've now caught up the all the past posts whats come to mined is the 7ft gauge track is cast with a hollow running though it. when both gauges are combined what rail is used on the side where both gauges run on. and dose this cause any problems with any track profile defences between the rails and the wheels running on them.

super pics!!! looking at the second photo the main frames are painted red was this done after her retirement or did castles have red frames when working in BR days? i have never noticed them being that colour before. and sitting next to some of stainer's fainest work one next to the castle fitted with hinged crossbar for the door dart. the second dose not.

I think I may have a model of the 5080 defiant I was lucky enough to have a foot plate ride on her when she was at GCR have a photo some where. I must admit I had forgotten which loco it was till I saw the pic some years ago. I think that's a good enough a reason to own as least one. Know to go looking in my books to see if any others made into leicester central in British rail days

very much thank you having some one working on the real thing is very enlightening and interesting to see what can and cant be done. so it would seem to be much easy to build a new loco. from a engineers view but maybe not so satisfying to bring one back to life. the 2 drawings is new one to me wonder what the thinking behind that one was. i have to admit i have not read all the posts yet working my way though all the 15 pages but i seem to be coming down with some sort of illness the strangest thing i fell the need to go and bay castle model loco. better go and have a lay down let it pass. did any make it into leicester (c15)

I was just wondering as I have worked on grading shafts for nuclear submarines down to 0.002 mm over a 2 meter shafts. When reworking moving parts on a locomotive do you still work to the old tolalance or as the machines are better nowadays have they been able to tighten them up to reduce the ware on the newly worked parts.

Lovely to see the workings of a loco going back together. I do see one bonus working on a 1' to 12" if you ever drop anything it won't get lost in the carpet forever more.

Tissue will also contains pine oil But as you say all your parts are kept the same so dose seem to be something else that's the problem. Michael how are the new etches,s princess royal coming on

the tranising could be down to pine oil out of the wood which is being used to keep the kits stright. As pine oil is in flux under one of its many names and is party the resone why flux stains

Really enjoying the Austin 7 build is it a old kit or have Alan Gibson started doing kits again has I have downloaded their new list but nothing about their kits and thought they where going to bring them back

hi Tim some really excellent weathering work i do like the B17. have you done any rebuilt Scot or pats as i know they did end up looking in sorrowful state near the end. i was wondering how do you go about doing the valve gear i under stand that you use Humbrol metal-cote dull aluminium gunmetal and mat leather but do you use undercoat first and is the valve gear taken apart first? i ask because i have just under coated the chassis of my Talbury tank and would like to get the wheels and gear looking something like yours. i have not done any to the coupling rods and slide bar yet. oh and what is used for that oily look on the wheels. apologies for what might be a simple question for some. look forward to seeing some more of your superb work.

timber collector guard which looks a bit exaggerated and the wrong angles at the top. i have been looking at some other SEMU and it seem that they don't seem to have all the same collector guards throughout the same class i have been looking at the 4sub's so could this be the case with the 2 Bil's and the one Hornby as done is just one that no one as a photo off? did the shoes ever get swoop around the different class's could not find enough 2Bil's to compare fairly.

ok may be not supper then more super models the joys of being dyslexic i just thought they are that good that they deserved another p i know that the kit or what ever you want to call it is meant for EM or P4 but has it has no spacer i dont see whyit could not be made into a OO loco? with some work on the wheel arches and cab bulk head i was thinking this could be done

yes i under stand that i have scratch built the odd tank but have nether had a go at a pacific it may sit in a draw for a bit as i have other locos on the go but that gives me time to get some other bits for it some books, tender whells etc

after looking at the photos of some supper models i think i may have to bay one of your kits as its my brithday soon and i can't think of a better thing to look forward to then a lizie that looks so real unlike the Hornby one which i could not bring may self to bay in the end even after holding one and having the cash for it. i just hope i'll be up to the job to build one just half as good and i would be happy.

yep i see it now i missed that bit

its nice to see some princess royal's what look like the real class. and i like the mike edge kit a nice idea. just the tryper boiler which puts me off i don't think i am up to building one of them. is the Hornby boiler up to it? any way looking forward to seeing the end result

i sent a email on friday and had the replay today did you phone? and if so have you there No and do you know who you spoke to? or may be its down to the word replacments as i did not say that just werther they would be willing to sell some parts

brassmaster dones not sell parts of any of their kits as i did ask about some parts for the scot and pat which i want to finish before i start on the jubliee and was told a big NO to getting cab side or boilers so i can't see them doing it for the jubliee which is a shame. is there any other compony which may sell useful parts

i like how you have decided to build a long fire box jubilee i had a idea about doing the same thing a couple of years back but was put of when i was told about the smoke box saddle was different to the short version along with the bogie being 3 inch shorter and the frames where different under the foot plate and was wondering how you plan to get round this if indeed you are. i look forward to you finishing the convert which from the pics looks likely to be a fine model when completed and as made me rethink about following you idea as £56 for a jubilee is very good deal and am sure the Mr's would not notice another one

i have just been looking at my BR green class 31 Hornby R2420 D5512 and it has cracks around the lower body and has never liked coupling up to any wagons couches etc is this one on the bad batches of class 31? and it looks like the main chassis is starting to bow!

would the two br 2-4-2t's be the same 50764 is a has built loco but 50795 is a loco which is a rebuilt/as-built but with smaller cylinders so would this make any difference to the model from the front dose any one know?

hi dont mean to hi jack this traed i was just wondering to what torlences you are working too? had a look on an old topic it seemed that mardan was not liked much and this made me think that if the torloences are too tight than no one could build a perfact copy of any loco with out first masuering the one that is wished to be done. has all locos are hand built no loco is ever the same as the next so to get round that it seems much easyer to open up the torlences. has a hobby i work to 0.5 mm so that works out at about 1'1/2 inch in 00 which to me is huge has when at work i tend to work to 0.0005 mm and below some times i am not trying to say to any one to what they should be doing i am just trying to under stand some of the work being put in to the models being built has a pic dose not all ways do justice

i have seen some of photos of the real things and its lovely to see some made as models very well done keep up the good work!!