Jon4470

I’ve now pretty much finished the Hornby shorties. The two brakes were undercoated in grey …. Mainly because I’d run out of white! One was the teaked using Van Dyke brown and the other with burnt umber. I’m not sure if the photos will show it clearly, but the burnt umber seems much richer and warmer to me. The Van Dyke brown (2nd photo) seems flatter. I used Van Dyke brown for the previous two carriages (over white undercoat) and they weren’t as flat. Just goes to show how the undercoat can impact other layers I guess. All four carriages together to form an excursion: Sorry the photo isn’t brilliant quality - I need to sort out some better lighting rig- but it gives the overall impression. Jon

I did - I restored a piano stool ( the wooden “box” type which stores sheet music under the removable seat). Not that we’ve got a piano though..,,,,

Hi Chas Yes, I agree that Headstock’s carriages looked fantastic. I’ll be interested to see how you get on with that teaking method. Once or twice, I have applied a second, different, oil colour to the carriage and that did reduce the evident graining while still showing subtle variations in colour. That could be something I’ll explore a bit more. As for real wood furniture……..you got me! I went to evening classes to learn how to restore it😀. Learning about white spirit, meths, French polish, linseed oil etc was fascinating. (Come to think of it that list is just like painting a teak carriage really😀) At the end of my classes I had a fully restored card table as well! Jon

Chas, Thanks for your kind comment. I think a very large part of any success that I have with teaking is down to the process. Over the years, I have seen a number of ways to create the teak effect and many of these produce great results. I was never convinced, though, that I could use these methods until I saw the approach that Mike Trice used. I would never describe myself as artistic - so the great appeal of using oil paint was the length of time it takes to dry. There is plenty of time to rework the effect until I’m happy. The time limit is really defined by my patience (or lack thereof😀). In fact, if the effect is really not good, it is possible to remove the oil paint and start again…..which de-risks the whole thing! I sometimes think the the effect I get is a bit overpowering- the most realistic look in 4mm seen from 3ft away would probably be plain brown and Matt finish. The thing is, I like the wood effect that I do get🙂. To my eye, it also resembles the colour photos of the time - they seem to exhibit an oil painting look. As we have discussed before, colour perception is a very personal thing. So, it’s pleasing to see that other people seem to like the results as well! Jon

Out of curiosity, I compared the Hornby Railroad Gresley composite to the brass sides of a D6 composite kit that I have in the stash. (It’s always dangerous to compare two models……but this is just for fun🙂) I lined the third class doors up first: The spacing of the third class doors looks the same between the two models. Then I tried with the first class doors lined up: Again, the spacing of the first class doors looks the same between the Hornby carriage and the brass sides. The brass sides are full length and the difference is in the middle. The full length carriage has an extra (half) first class compartment. Interestingly, the Hornby carriage is also longer between the ends and the first door- at both ends! That last point would make a cut and shut (to get a full length carriage out of the Hornby) an “interesting “ challenge. Jon

Messing around with the Hornsby carriages seems to have done the trick with regards to the modelling mojo! While working on the other three Hornbys from the Flying Scotsman set, I also managed to finish the saloon. All that was needed was to fit the roof and apply transfers. Not sure why it took so long! (To be fair to myself, I suppose, the roof did need a bit of fettling.) Anyway, here it is: That’s another carriage that needs some weathering🙂 At some point I will get the airbrush out and add some (light) soot to the roof of this, and a few other, carriages. Oh, and then there are interiors to create………..😀 Finally, while I work on the other Hornbys, I’m pondering this: Thats the tender drive Flying Scotsman from the set. It seems to still run well and has no play damage. My current thinking is to re-number, sort out the lining, replace the moulded handrails on the cab and replace the tender top with a Dave Alexander GN style tender top kit that I have in the stash. The kit is designed for the tender drive mechanism - but still requires some filing to the motor block….hmmm. Jon

I use the method that Mike Trice demonstrates in those videos for my teak carriages. I like that the oil paints give plenty of time to adjust the teak effect. A couple of weeks ago I had a go at the Railroad carriages and changed this into this Apart from the re-paint, the only change was to replace the wheels. I liked the result so much that I’m now working on the other carriages from the Flying Scotsman set! Regards Jon

Hi Tony Yes - go for it! It will be a very interesting loco to build. Jon PS. If you don’t want to build it ….let me know…..it’s on my wish list to be built one day🙂

Hi Bill That looks like an exNER diagram 174 van composite to me. ( It seems to match the NER diagram book drawing anyway). The build date is given as June 1909. Unfortunately there are no running numbers noted on the diagram though. I found a photo in North Eastern Record vol2 which shows a D174 carrying number 406 in North Eastern Railway days. Hope this helps. Jon

I saw your work on the Kirk carriage which looks to be turning out well. For your era I guess you’d have maroon livery? I think it was only the buffet and sleeping cars that made it into blue grey livery wasn’t it? To paraphrase one of my mother in law’s sayings - with a bit of work “these carriages will put you on”. I think I’ll use them as an “excursion” set….until I build some replacements at some time in the future. Jon

To carry on the story….. The original carriage looks like this: These carriages have many shortcomings but, in my opinion, still manage to look like a Gresley carriage. Putting right all the problems would take a long time- it would be quicker to build a new kit I think. The question then becomes how far to go? As I mentioned, in the previous post, I decided to repaint only…..and then see what the carriage looked like. As I took the carriage apart I discovered that the wheels are actually wagon wheels! So, they did get changed to coach wheels. This was the only upgrade that I made though. I used my normal teak method and, deliberately, went for a darker look. This is because I decided to number it as an exGNR composite carriage, which would be older and darker. (Please don’t ask me how this old carriage has ended up on an angle truss underframe, with ventilator hoods on the doors etc, etc 😀) This is how it has turned out so far: The compartment side (second photo ) has had a finishing varnish coat. The corridor side will get this in due course - when the transfers have dried. I’m pleased with the result and I think this is a usable layout carriage - even though it stetches the definition of a layout carriage to the limit😀 I think that my next step will be to practice some of the weathering tips that I’ve been watching on YouTube. The military modellers have some great ideas which I want to try out and this carriage is probably a good candidate. Jon

It’s been a while since I posted. Mainly caused by plenty of things to do……but my modelling mojo seems to have also taken a late summer holiday! I decided on a little project to ease my way back in. I have to say, though, this nearly started with a catastrophe! In mid September the temperature suddenly dropped. Like many others (I suspect) I did not want to put the central heating on yet- so I lit an open fire. Soon had a good blaze going and it was drawing well…….then I went upstairs……and could smell smoke😟 I tracked the smell down to the loft hatch, opened it….and discovered a loft full of smoke! I could see it was coming out of the side of the chimney, so I quickly checked that it was just smoke and there was no fire. Ran downstairs, put out the fire, back upstairs to check smoke had stopped …..and breathed a sigh of relief. Anyway, back to the point, while in the loft I re-discovered this: A present that I bought for my son many moons ago. Apart from the loco, inside there are a number of these: I’ve often wondered what they would look like with a re-paint…. And, indeed, I’ve seen a number of other people have a go at them. I decided that this would make a simple project. There was to be no attempt at detailing. It would be a repaint only. The best case outcome was a usable carriage….worst case ( there wasn’t one because I’d never use them in original condition). So, how did it turn out? You’ll have look at the next post because the pictures are too big for one post🙂 Jon

Sounds a bit like pin hole surgery to me😀 On a serious note, I’m whether you may not need to drill into the plastic (or at least not drill every hole). My thinking is that, if the plastic is a reasonably tight fight and the pins are pushed through the copper strip and soldered, then the pressure of the pins on the plastic maybe sufficient to hold it in place. It would avoid trying to drill multiple holes accurately. Jon

Chas Very impressive attention to detail! Also something that I might follow on the next build (now that I’ve also got some of that copper strip). jon PS. Next challenge for you is working hinges for the spectacles……..tongue firmly in cheek 🙂

Time for a small interlude…… At the weekend I re-discovered a war gaming board that I had started (years ago) for my son. He changed his mind and I put the board away ….. because it might come in useful 🙂 The board is actually a piece of insulation sheet (about 4ft by 2ft). I had attached a basic grass sheet to it but nothing else. I decided it would make a useful practice board and, possibly, a reasonable photo plank. I jumped in, cut some cork strip and glued down some track……how hard can that be? This is why I call it a practice board…..the cork isn’t cut neatly enough and the track isn’t great either! Never mind, I will sort those out and then ballast it. In the process I’ll learn how to do these things properly 🙂 Welcome to the flat earth society! I plan to try out some scenic ideas such as a lineside fence, some trees, a track, a barrow crossing etc Not too many though, so that I can use it to take photos. I started to play around with colouring this…a barrow crossing kit I used oil paints in various ways and colours…. Freshly creosoted wood This was Burnt Umber and Van Dyck Brown mixed and diluted into a wash Next, some weathering was applied to the fresh “creosote “…. This was a combination of a wash (black, white and grey) and some dry brushing with the same colours. Most of the paint applied was removed with a damp brush to let the browns through. Finally, I tried the black, white and grey on the bare wood as supplied. This was to try to get a fully weathered look. Old wood does go grey after all…… I don’t think this works though. I think that the effect I want is closest to number two attempt…….but with more grey/white. Jon

Update on the saloon carriage. I’ve made steady progress with the teak……and lining. In truth, I had hoped to have completed it all by now , but it is just too hot! (Firstly, I’m too hot and bothered to concentrate. Second reason is that I usually do my modelling in the evening….but the lining paint is drying out too quickly at this time of the day) Anyhow this is the progress. Just the oil paint teak in place: The next photo shows the carriage with a coat of gloss varnish. This starts to bring out the depth of the colours… and the variations between the panels Finally with lining (sorry the lighting is a bit darker) The other side of the carriage has some more lining to do, then the ends, then the touching in and weathering (light) Jon

Just thought I’d put a photo of my completed Barber on here (if that’s OK?). I’m really pleased that you produced this kit….and I like the result: Jon

The driver is just one from the stock list…..so, no, it isn’t actually me! When it came to painting, though, I thought I’d just try with grey hair and beard…..probably the inspiration came from looking in the mirror and seeing some old bloke staring back at me🙂 The back story, that I’ve now invented, is that he must be an old timer as I don’t think beards were very popular with younger people in the 1930s. Jon

Hi James I must admit that putting a crew on a loco isn’t normally high on my priority list. However, I was (pleasantly) surprised about how much difference adding the driver made to this loco. I’m looking forward to seeing your version of Barber in due course. For those who don’t know about the line….New Park tunnel was only 9ft tall and 8ft wide. This was the reason for the cut down cab with an escape hatch in the rear sheeting! Despite the cab floor being dropped from the normal level it was still a tight squeeze to fit a driver. In fact, the preserved loco is now having a higher cab attached because of complaints and head bump accidents involving the modern day crew.

The weather was rubbish today…….which meant more modelling time🙂 The paint brushes were in use and the saloon is now a glorious mix of orange shades! I also took the opportunity to paint up a driver figure for Barber. This is a modelu figure of a driver looking to the right. He’s just resting in place at the moment, until I decide that the painting is complete. I think that the figure really helps to complete this loco. Unfortunately for him, I had to amputate one of his legs to get him to fit in the cab though!

This could get almost as controversial as Gresley vs Thompson…….😀

As requested by @teaky…… I tried white wine vinegar, lemon juice and CIF. In each case I just brushed on the liquid (on the carriage sides) and left it for 4-5 minutes…..no brushing or scrubbing allowed.🙂 The results: A = the original fibre glass pen B = the ketchup C = white wine vinegar D = lemon juice the area circled was where the CIF went The CIF wasn’t effective really….if I had started to scrub it, then I Think that would make a difference. The lemon juice seems a bit better than the vinegar … although both struggle with the half etched panels. The advantage that the ketchup has was immediately apparent….it is a thick paste and not a liquid. Therefore it sticks to the brass and, I think, this makes it the most effective. If I had submerged the etch in vinegar or lemon juice then they might match the ketchup. The ketchup wins on ease of use. There is no need for containers etc…just squirt it on and spread around. Place on a piece of paper and the wash off. Best smell? For me, the lemon juice😀 Interesting little experiment and, whichever chemical is used, it will massively reduce the need for the fibre glass pen! Jon PS. I’m told that our next ketchup will be Tesco own brand….so I will be able to check if all brands work the same😀 PPS It’s made me wonder just what ketchup does to my digestive system!

Thats a good idea, I’ll see what I can find- vinegar, lemon juice, …….

I had to give the Ketchup (as recommended by @Chas Levin) a try! The top end piece was cleaned with a fibre glass pen and elbow grease. The lower end piece (and some of the surrounding etch) has a coat of Heinz TK…..for about 2 minutes! I’m amazed by how much tarnish was removed so quickly. The only downside that I can see…..was the smell……I had an instant craving for some chips😀

Thanks for the tip - I’d not heard that one before. I’m guessing there must be some vinegar in the ketchup. I might get some funny looks from the family, though, if I take the ketchup bottle off to the work bench……..😀