Izzy

Ah. Reviewing all the shots I could find I did rather come to the conclusion initially that it was a Eastern region variation, since I didn't find this practice of fixing the disc flaps upwards to exist in photos of diesels on regions other than this. However, what actually drew my attention to this was some black/white shots of class 15's in the original plain green livery on the website mentioned previously about these diesels. The supposed white dots really stand out in these and is what started this enquiry. The particular shots I was interested in showed these locos on the Walton branch among others, on local passenger trains to Thorpe-le-soken. Izzy

Thanks John, I had been looking at those particular galleries after posting, just realised what I was looking at - and edited my post just as you posted! Izzy

Thanks Mick, That would explain the total lack of information on this that I have been able to discover to date. Actually I have now discovered the cause of the apparent white dot. It's really quite simple, and shows how thick I can be at times! When the bottom half of the disc is fixed upwards then the hole in it to allow the light to shine through when the disc is fully open allows the white of the top half to show through this hole, and it looks just like a white dot. Izzy

Recently I have been building a BR class 15 diesel in 2mm, and in trying to finish off the detail bits like headcode discs I discovered in studying various photos, that the headcode discs were often fixed closed, hinged upwards rather than down, so the light was exposed, with a white dot on the disc rear showing. This is a variation on the normally stated positions of fully open or closed downwards which I have not noticed before, and which I now find is visible in shots of other types of diesel loco without headcode boxes. All three positions could be seen together, yet no headcodes seem to exist that I have been able to find, with no mention of this thrid position. Can anyone shed any light on this? Was it about train route rather than train type, and peculiar to the Eastern Region, or more widespread? Thanks Izzy

I would suggest that the ambient temperature and the 'warmth' of the metal item being sprayed/painted has a bearing. A few months back on one of the warmer winter days I tried to spray with Halfords primer a couple of 2mm SA coaches I had just built, and found that although the paint finish looked good it hadn't really keyed well to the bodies, later starting to peel and flake in places. I had to strip them down and decided to wait for warmer and better weather to arrive. I now have a diesel to spray as well - and I'm still waiting! Izzy

Having struggled with the tall coach issue I came to the conclusion that Dapol use 6mm wheels for clearance but deepen the underframe to remove the large gap between the bogie and body, as has existed with many of the Farish ones of the past. So fit the correct sized 7mm wheels and it's too high, but you can't lower the body on the bogies to compensate, as you can with the older Farish. Izzy

If you use either DG couplings or the N gauge types then buffer locking issues should not arise whether reverse curves are involved or not. The little micro-circular layout which I've built to 2mm 2FS has curves down to 12" radius and no stock has problems. This ranges from modern stock such as Class 66/86/156/ freightliner flats etc to older 1960's green diesel era stuff, 24/31/37/mk 1's/short wheelbase wagons etc. However, the only couplings that work reliably on curved track with regard to coupling/uncoupling are the DG's. I used them on a previous N layout on curves down to 9" without issue. Izzy

I'm glad your signal has revived itself. I had the self-same issue with the (only) Dapol N gauge signal I bought. It worked about 6 times and then went into the state yours first did. Sadly mine never recovered. Not feeling this was acceptable for a £25 product I returned it and got my money back. Now I am using Ekcon/Berko colour light signals. Much cheaper, more reliable, and closer to scale. Izzy

Could I suggest that you check that the crankpins are at right angles to the wheels. I have found that they can easily shift out of true and cause quartering issues. Izzy

To motorize the gate you might like to consider using a servo. Tam Valley now produce a single servo board with SG90 servo, the 'singlet' which can work off either DCC bus power or DC, and can be simply programed for end points and speed. Not too expensive at around

Thanks. As I use 2mm Association drop-in replacement wheelsets to convert most Farish stuff to 2FS standards I'm actually pleased the current system continues, at least for the present. If the system had changed it would mean these could no longer be used and the original wheels machined to suit, as needs to happen with Dapol stuff, which isn't a huge issue for me, but means it's a one way process. In actual fact, whilst I think the pin-point system is great for non-powered wheelsets, I'm not really sure it makes any difference with powered ones, since I find no particular difference in reliability of pick-up. Izzy

Hi Ben, Does this refer to the power bogie or just the other bogies? The current 108/101's I have use pin-point pick-up on all non powered wheels, but wipers on the powered one, and I had presumed that this arrangement had continued with the 4-CEP and Desiro. Is there now pin-point collection on the powered one's as well? Izzy

I had exactly the same problem with a N gauge one and then found it seems to be a common occurence with these signals in both scales. A bit too unreliable for my taste if it can happen so frequently for no apparent reason considering their basic cost. I didn't dare risk getting another to replace it and got a refund. Izzy

I used axle steel without any problems. Most brass rod is 1/16" rather than 1.5mm and thus too big to be a good push fit in the muffs whilst the axle steel is just right. You will need to set the fly-cranks out further than the wheels since the coupling rods are in two parts, as per the prototype, those connecting the fly-cranks being outside those of the wheels. In this respect I found I had to reverse the second rod layers on the fly-crank rods (the bosses) at one end in order to clear behind the steps and keep everything in line. Izzy

As I have been starting from scratch I have fitted mine to the top of the coach bogie frame, the only way really to get around curved trackwork, and the same for my diesels. I used this as the default height setting measument for all my stock, which is somewhat lower than normal under the bufferbeam level others seem to use, so they wouldn't neccesarily couple with other peoples stock. I have also discovered that using steel for the loops doesn't work too well if you want/need loops on both ends of your stock. The reason is quite simple. After the first use they become magnatised and tend to 'stick' to each other rather than riding up over each other on contact. So I now make the loops out of the phosphor bronze wire that is supplied. These are in one piece, bent so the leg goes between the pivots. A twist of soft iron wire is put on the end of the leg to attract the magnet. Izzy

Rather than replace the tube, or if you can’t find a more suitable one, you could try cooling the tube’s output by putting silver reflectors around it. Baking foil is a good and cheap option, which can withstand being near heat and can be glued into place. Silver and gold reflectors are often used in photography to either cool down or warm up the light whether it is natural (ambient) or artificial (flash etc) as cooler light makes objects look sharper whilst warmer light softens them. Cool for products and warm for portraiture is the average. Although the actual colour temperature of light varies throughout the day, the notational mean average daylight balanced temperature is usually given as around 5,500K. Flash output is set to produce this and can often look ‘harsh’ in comparison to ordinary lighting, which is usually around the 2,000K – 4,000K mark. A brief idea of the colour temperature of light can be found here - http://www.digicamin...hitebalance.htm Hope this might be of use/interest Izzy

Thanks Jerry, the pics are very helpful with regard to my initial question re the lighting. I have just completed the basic construction of a small shunting type layout using mountboard (38"w x 8"d x 9"h) and thought I should think about how to light it before starting on track laying. Actually I am also trying to do the basic backscene as well. Thanks for the inspiration I have gained since first seeing HC in RM, and now Tucking Mill. Izzy

Thanks Rich, Handy to know about the Kelvin code on them. Now I know what to look for when getting a unit. To be honest I sometimes find the 'daylight balanced' types to be rather too cool under some circumstances so ones around 3000K should be fine, just adding a little touch of warmth. Most of these light strips are of course produced for under kitchen cupboard use, I've looked at them in both B&Q and Wickes. The T4 sized ones are quite small and not very heavy which are both useful bonuses which attracted me to them. I believe Jerry stated the T5 tubes don't get too hot in his experience, which is certainly an advantage with small layouts in confined spaces. Izzy

Could I ask what lighting you have used? I am sure I read somewhere that you used T5 tubes/fitments (B&Q?) with Highbury and found them very good, and I presume that you have done the same again. I found some T4 tube light strips the other day and wondered if they would be as good to use. Izzy

This is a first generation chinese chassis i.e. post Poole but pre the current can motor/ DCC ready era. I would hazard a guess that the 101/108 DMU 6mm geared drop-in-wheels will fit. The trailer could be another matter. As it's pre DCC ready model with no lights the wheels may be simple pin-points as they don't collect current. Ordinary 6mm disc will thus do, though what axle length you will need to be found by measuring the current ones. Probably 15.2mm but might be less. Izzy.

Thanks, it does. As someone electronically limited, I get there eventually but it takes a while, and this helps me understand things now. Obviously the MERG board takes the 12v dc and puts out just what the servo's need. Having tried a Colbolt recently and not been over-impressed with it's limitations, larger and more expensive than I'd like, and like the similar but even larger Tortoise not particularly adaptable in limited space situations, the servo answer seems a rather neat solution. Having gone down the DCC route for Loco control I'm not sure how much further I want to go with point/signal/electromagnet control(for couplings), and something like this could be part of the solution I adopt. cheers, Izzy

I like the simple design of the TOU's and the way you are operating them via servo. As a newbie to this way of doing things, and appreciative of the clear way you have shown how you made and programmed it all, could I just ask how the servo's are actually powered and operated. By ordinary switch, or via DCC perhaps?

Yes, but venting your frustration like this doesn't help the situation, it only puts the 2mm association in a bad light it doesn't deserve. It is unfortunate, but is being dealt with. As has been pointed out the association is a small one, run entirely by volunteers, all of whom spend considerable amounts of their time trying to help other members in various ways. For it's size, and compared with other scale/gauge societies, it could be said that it punches well above it's weight considering the scale and depth of the products and services it provides. It's easy to be critical, so please make any such remarks constructive if you feel you must make them. Thank you Izzy