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goldngreen

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  1. goldngreen
    The pub in my previous post is the former Albion at 86 Armley Road in Leeds. This is what it looks like now:
     

     
    This is the Google Maps reference: https://www.google.com/maps/@53.7972561,-1.5723353,3a,75y,33.46h,97.05t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sR3k-CLrmyuA9zxl5DT2Eew!2e0!7i16384!8i8192
     
    This is a Google Maps shot from a few years ago when it was still a pub:
     

     
    I have only been to Leeds a couple of times and I have never been to the Albion. 
     
    The reason I thought it might be recognized by railway modellers is that it was the prototype for a model by Builder Plus from the late 70s until Builder Plus disappeared. Most of the Builder Plus models were very good for their time. They used photo captured brick/stone images to make up in to really good models. As a young British N gauge modeller in the 70s they were a game changer. I could now make British outline models rather than relying on Pola or Faller. It led me on scratch building. I built the Builder Plus model of the Albion in the late seventies and found a good place for it on my layout. The layout was sold when I went off to college along with the model.
     
    A few years ago I picked up an unmade copy of the old N Gauge Builder Plus pub at a show. Knowing that there are not many about as the company no longer exists, I scanned it in to my computer and backed it up. I also picked up a copy of the Builder Plus Bank.
     
    I then had an idea. Was the model based on a real prototype? After some searching on the web I found the original pictured above. At the time it was still open.
     
    The original was however built of a different colour brick to that used in the Builder Plus kit. Builder Plus had used their standard brick colour. So using the Builder Plus kit as a template I set about making my own version using the Google images to sample the brick and other features from the building, using multi-layered image manipulation software. The model in the post is the result of building my rather make-shift, one-off kit.
    My model may not be that wonderful but I think it is a lovely prototype. I am pleased that I managed to capture an image from while it was still a pub before the windows were changed. I now wish I had saved a few more from other angles.
    Here are some more pictures found here: http://www.leodis.net/display.aspx?resourceIdentifier=2003116_81023807. I have only reproduced their samples. Please visit their site for originals.
     
     
        
     
    and finally a more recent one:
     

     
  3. goldngreen

    Platforms

    By goldngreen,

    The platforms use Peco platform edging with a cardboard top. The fact that this is a terminus means that the platforms meet at one end. To avoid joins in the surface, I cut all the platforms from a single sheet of cardboard using a template marked on tracing paper laid on the baseboard. The surface is airbrush painted with a Humbrol grey and then weathered using pastels.

  4. goldngreen

    A Diversion - Stamford Engine Shed

    By goldngreen,


    Diversion
    I came across a model I made some time ago just for interest when I did not have a layout: Stamford Engine Shed in N gauge based on the Prototype Kit:
     

     
    I scanned in the original Prototype kit and then used The Gimp to replace all of the brick surfaces with a Scalescenes equivalent. The roof tiles were replaced using the same technique with a home made slate paper made from a photo of the roof of the school at the Beamish Museum. The water tank sides were drawn from scratch in The Gimp. The kit was then printed on similar thickness card to the Prototype kit and built the same way as the original using the supplied windows. It was finished with Ratio guttering and chimney pots made from plastic sheathe stripped from electric wire. 
     

     
    Looking back at it now I can see many rough edges but I think the original building is a great prototype. It has no place on my GWR Marlott though so back in its box!
     

     
    This is the original prototype kit which I believe is still available from Freestone Model Accessories.
     

     
    I thought I had done a post on this some time ago but cannot find it. Do old entries in these blogs get archived after some period? Anyway, if you had already seen this then apologies for the duplicate.
     
  5. goldngreen

    Signal Box

    By goldngreen,


    Signal Box
    The signal box is made from the excellent Severn Valley Models etched brass kit. The kit is assembled using cyanoacrylate glue and goes together very well. I used Deluxe Materials Glue'n'Glaze to attach the window glazing. I struggled with one or two of the small parts, particularly in the stair case but that was more my one-eyed ham-fisted approach than the kit. Once complete it was primed and then painted with Precision Paints light stone and dark stone plus Humbrol for the walls, windows and roof. It was then weathered using pastels and weathering powder.
     

  6. goldngreen

    Ballasting

    By goldngreen,


    Ballasting
    For ballasting I use sandpit sand bought from ToysRUs before it disappeared. It is reasonably coarse so can pass for ballast in n gauge. 
     
    One of the things I do not like about commercial N gauge track is the depth of the sleepers. I therefore wanted to use the ballast to hide this depth consistently. After some experimentation I came up with a scheme to achieve this.
     
    Once the track was laid, I lined the edge of the sleepers with evergreen 1mm quarter-round StripStyrene. The depth is just a little lower than Peco code 55 sleeper depth. An example of this can be seen in the attached image showing a bit of test track.
     

     
    Ballast was then glued to the edge strip using water proof wood working adhesive painted on to the strip with a fine brush. Note that the water proof wood working adhesive was used for this step to avoid the next step, which involves water, undoing this step. Once this was dry the remaining gaps between the sleepers were ballasted in the traditional way by spreading ballast carefully and setting with watered down PVA with a little washing up liquid to kill surface tension. This creates the illusion of a ballast shoulder on which the sleepers are resting. 
     

     
    It was then airbrush weathered using a range of colours but mostly Precision Paints Track Colour.
     

     
    EE D6827 has no real business being there. I just like it!
     
  7. goldngreen

    Track Plan

    By goldngreen,


    Planning
    The proposed model is not based on a prototype. I have a lot of admiration for modellers who create accurate representations of real locations and often find them the most interesting layouts at exhibitions. Part of the enjoyment for me however is to decide what I want and where I want to put it. I do however want to create something that is at least credible; allowing for space compression!
     
    I have spent much time studying other layout plans, internet resources and experimentating with Peco PDF Track Templates. The aims of the track plan are to put the most interest centre stage, to avoid aligning the track with the baseboard edges and to not overfill the space, which is difficult given the small area.
     

     
    The final track plan created using the excellent SCARM is shown below. The plan includes a station building, goods shed and engine shed. The engine shed will obscure the view of the exit to the right which will be under a low relief road bridge. A cattle dock may also feature but that is not yet decided.
     

     
    SCARM can even show a 3D mock up, although the roofs look huge:
     

     
    The advantages of the plan for me are:
    It puts the main interest in the middle of the scene It allows me to accommodate large radius points
    I am using a Y point but consider that to be acceptable in my large radius scheme. I am also using a double slip to allow me to fit the plan in to the available space. Back to back points would be better but there is not enough space. Two tracks disappear off scene to the right to assumed further points joining them to the single track branch line with a head shunt.
  8. goldngreen

    Subdued Colours

    By goldngreen,


    Weathering
    I was pleased to get a comment from Mikkel on the subdued colours I had used on the engine shed. Despite not achieving his amazing standards I thought I would share how I do it. Subdued colours are something I am aiming for on the layout as I always like the layouts with subdued colours at shows. On the engine shed I used The Gimp to subdue the colour of the printed Scalescenes Red Brick, however on the other areas and all over the rest of the layout I use pastels. I have two sets that I rely on:
     

     
    The Black to White set is from a high street branch of The Works having seen a recommendation from BRM's Phil Parker. I picked up the landscape set at a show such a long time ago that I do not remember who sold it to me. It used to be available from Amazon but I have not been able to find it there recently. I did find one on eBay. Fortunately I have a spare!
     
    On all painted surfaces and the scenery I paint using standard colours and then dull down using similar coloured pastels. I often use a few and then blend them on the surface with a dry brush. I like the finish not just for the colours but also the soft edges and the very matt finish. It works particularly well on ground cover and stone surfaces. They clean up well using the vacuum cleaner extension and can be sealed using a spray varnish if necessary.
     
    The signal box was finished this way after being painted with Precision Paints GWR light and dark stone, plus Humbrol brick red and slate colours. 
     
  9. goldngreen

    Coal Merchants Office

    By goldngreen,


    Yard
    My most recent project is not very ambitious: a coal merchants office for the yard. It is based very closely on the Scalescenes kit, however I modified the window to suit a prototype I found on the far right of a picture of Kings Heath Station, just because I liked it. I realised having completed the build that it is quite similar to a OO gauge kit given away by Metcalfe on the front of the Railway Modeller a couple of years ago. The brick work is just the Scalescenes original however I put the arch in over the window using The Gimp. The roof is home made from a photo, squared up and joined in to a larger sheet also using The Gimp. The chimney pot is a white metal casting from Langley. I can only find the OO gauge ones on their web page but I picked the N gauge ones up at a show. The gutters and down pipes are Ratio. The overgrown ivy is Woodland Scenics.
     

     
    The coal merchant will fill a gap at the back of the yard.
  10. goldngreen

    Lighting

    By goldngreen,


    Lighting
    After a long hiatus I have finally got round to another post.
     
    I often find that some of the layouts that stand out at shows are those that are well lit. I think it is particularly important in small cameo layouts. I am also struck by how much layouts of this type look similar in dimensions to home aquariums. Home aquariums always seem to be well lit. This set me thinking.
     
    So I visited my local aquarium supplier with the dimensions of my layout noted. In addition to seeing a wide variety of exotic fish, I also found an aquarium lighting unit that seemed to be a perfect fit. It is LED. It came with a transformer and a switch in the cable.
     

     
    When I got it home I found that the fit was even better than I had expected. I literally had to make no modifications to the layout to fit the lighting unit. It sits perfectly between the ends of the already existing frame at the top of the layout. 
     

     
  11. goldngreen

    Weathering Cows

    By goldngreen,


    Cattle Dock
    It is not every day that when I am asked what I have been doing that I am able to answer "weathering cows". I had that opportunity today so I grabbed it with both hands. 
     
    My original plan included the possibility of a cattle dock. The time has come. The cattle dock is going in the original planned location at the back to the right. 
     
    I want to make most of the features on the layout either scratch built, or made from less familiar kits, in the hope that it will look a little different. I therefore considered scratch building a cattle dock. I looked at how to make the fencing and came to the conclusion that an etch would be the best option. For the gates I thought plastic but it is difficult to fashion such things from scratch in N gauge. As for the platform there are many options but Peco platform edgings seemed like a good option. As I reviewed the options I realised that I was pretty much describing the Ratio cattle dock so this time I decided to swallow my pride and buy the kit. 
     
    The kit goes together easily. I did however find the lights difficult to make. The posts are very delicate. I managed to snap 2, one while clipping off the sprue with clippers designed for the purpose, the other with a paint brush. I managed to fix them both with Mek Pak! Perhaps 2mm is  bit beyond me these days with my aging eyes. The finished kit is shown below plonked on the layout in the intended position. I will have to fix it permanently to deal with the gap at the base. I used a slightly unusual configuration for the gate positions to ensure cattle could be loaded from both pens on this very short siding. It is weathered in a lime washed state complete with weathered Graham Farish cows. The photo tells me that I will also need to blend in the lime washed state to the track and hide the join between the steps and the platform.
     

  12. goldngreen

    Engine Shed Details

    By goldngreen,


    engine shed
    A quick run down on materials used for the engine shed.
     

     
    Outside bricks: Scalescenes Red Brick TX01 with the colour dulled down using The Gimp Inside white washed bricks: Scalescenes Painted Brick TX05 Guttering: Ratio Guttering & Drainpipes Doors: Ratio Doors with the arched tops removed with a razor saw Roof: York Modelmaking Slates N-Tiles01 Windows: Scene-Setters Glazing Bars 3x4mm -  I got these at a show. They are not currently listed on the website as they are rebuilding the site. I made the frames look more worn and yellow using a pastel. I smothered them in the pastel colour and then brushed it off. It sticks to the bars just enough but comes off the clear areas easily. 
  13. goldngreen

    Billy Bookcase Fiddle Yard

    By goldngreen,


    Other
    If I can build a Billy Bookcase layout, then perhaps I can build a Billy Bookcase fiddle yard.
     
    Adjoining the 80cm Billy Bookcase on which the layout lives is a 60cm Billy Bookcase. I do not think that the 60cm version is made anymore, however, I have one and it is the ideal place to locate the fiddle yard. 
     
    Although the layout itself will only accommodate short trains, I did not want the fiddle yard to be restrictive length. I therefore decided to build a traverser rather than using points. The base for the fiddle yard is a smaller replica of that used for the layout which fits snugly on top of the bookcase.
     
    I have gone for light weight construction using a large sheet of plasticard which I got directly from Slaters. Although it is in their catalogue I could not find it in any shops. The traverser slides on two brass runners glued directly to the baseboard. It is held in place by brass strips at either end. The track is glued using a hot glue gun. The traverser is moved by hand. Alignment is achieved using home-made brass bolts which also complete the circuit to the aligned track when connected. The other side is permanently wired.
     
    A curiosity of the Billy Bookcase when used for this purpose is the raised edges mean that the available area on the top is 4 cm shorter than the overall length. There is a 2cm gap at either end. To connect the fiddle yard to the layout this gap must be bridged. This is achieved with a piece of foam board with two track sections.
     
    Hopefully all of this is visible in the images:
     

     

     

     

     
     
     
     
  14. goldngreen

    Control 2

    By goldngreen,


    Control
    In control I explained how the underside of the layout is wired. Now for the controllers and control panel.
     
    I decided on two controllers. This is perhaps more than necessary for a layout of this size but I wanted two controllers to get optimum control of different loco types. I find that the older locos and some recent ones respond better to PWM feedback controllers. I used the now defunct ECM controllers on earlier layouts many years ago and found them to be highly effective. The modern locos with coreless motors respond badly to PWM controllers and can be damaged by them, as explained here.
     
    The PWM controller is a Gaugemaster Model DF. It includes 2 PWM controllers and importantly 2 transformers (required for common return wiring). It also has a 16v AC output.
     

     
    My other controller is a Gaugemaster Model W hand held, powered off the AC output from the Model DF.
     

     
    I also need a control panel to mount the section switches. I decided that this would be the central hub so the Model DF, the Model W and the layout would only be connected to the central hub. This avoids a mesh of wires between different components keeping things tidy. For the hub controller I wanted a simple box with switches, sockets and a track diagram.
     
    Carpentry is not my strongest suit so I looked for a practical solution. I puzzled for some time before remembering a trick we used as radio control boat modellers in the 70s to protect the expensive radio control gear. The components were mounted in Tupperware containers with small holes for control wires. The top could be flipped off easily for access. Although not providing a tight seal due to the holes, this kept splashes off the electrical gear. I did not have the water proof requirement but a readymade plastic box seemed like a good option.
     
    I looked around for a suitable plastic box and found my best option at The Range.
     

     
    It is a robust black box with a semi transparent lid allowing my printed track plan to show through when mounted on the inside. Power comes in to the box from the Model DF via two phono sockets on the left, one for the controller and one for the 16v AC. The handheld Model W is connected via a 5 pin din socket on the right hand side which provides power out and control back in. Four switches are mounted at the top of the box to control the sections which are colour coded on the diagram. The switches are 3 way, up for one controller, down for the other and centre off. Control to the layout leaves via a 5 pin din socket at the back.
  15. goldngreen

    Pub

    By goldngreen,


    Other
    I never got back to posting after Christmas. First a job change and now ...
     
    So here is something I did earlier. Not my best modelling but I am curious to see who recognises it. If you do recognise it perhaps it looks a bit different.
     

     

  16. goldngreen
    Here is an attempted wide angle focus stacked image to get good depth of focus close up. Unfortunately the wide angle does not focus so well at this range around the edges. My eyes are not what they were either so my judge of focus may be impaired, however I think it is all in better focus than any of the images that went in to it.
     
     
     
    It is similar to the last photo I posted but is actually completely new.
     
     
  17. goldngreen

    Point Control

    By goldngreen,


    Control
    Last year I was asked a question about how I intended to actuate the points. Unfortunately I missed that question and so have only just responded. Apologies to Jack Benson for that. Here is the explanation I promised. I am using stiff push/pull wires under the baseboard as shown here:
     

     
    The other components in the design are choc-box connectors. The brass insides of the choc-box connectors are used as joiners for the wire to allow the system to be re-configurable (see 1). The consequence is that it can, in theory, be reconfigured to operate from the front or the back by undoing a couple of screws and connecting the handle to the other side. Another brass choc-box-inside is used directly under the point. A groove is filed in to the side of the brass connector into which a vertical wire is soldered. This engages with the point via a hole in the baseboard (see 2).
     

     
    The wires are guided by brass tube which is held in place using the plastic outside part of choc-box connectors (see 3).
     
    I have one side of the double-slip mounted in line with the Y point. The consequence is that I needed to divert the control of the Y point sideways past the double-slip actuator. This is done using more choc-box-internals with filed grooves and soldered wires to effect a horizontal bridge (see 4). I needed the double bridge with tension on the wires to make it stiff enough.
     
    A similar approach is used to operate the switches required to complete the double slip electrical continuity (see 5).
     
    The wires stick a short distance out of the front of the layout. They are covered with small plastic handles.
     

     
    Label 6 shows one of the holes for the alternative rear operation configuration. I cannot have these permanently setup since at home it is against a wall.
     
    The use of the adjustable screw connectors makes it easy to fettle the system to get the right tolerances. It is also easy to fix if something goes wrong although it has been working reliably since installation.
    I think I got the basic idea from a BRM article which, unfortunately, I cannot find now.
  18. goldngreen

    Tree

    By goldngreen,


    Scenics
    My inspiration for model railway trees dates back to the 1970s. We always believed that, no matter how good the track, stock, buildings and scenery were, model railways were always let down by the trees. There did not appear to be a good way to build a realistic tree. Then I saw Pendlebury by Bert Topping in a couple of magazines of the day. There is a picture of one of his trees here on rmweb. Page down through the post. As I remember it, his methods involved blitzing (using a blender) dyed, frozen, wet, foam to make the leaf cover; this was the big difference. It was held in place using rubberized horse hair. One of the features I liked in the Pendlebury trees was the observation that many trees have trunks split quite low and progress to the canopy as two trunks. I wanted to model this in my tree. 
     
    Another more recent inspiration, as for many, is Gordon Gravetts Modelling Trees Part One. 
     
    I was not going to achieve these standards but inspiration is really important.
     
    Now Woodland Scenics and other manufacturers make foam based foliage for us. No messing about with dying and blitzing! My method for this tree was to use stripped 13 amp flex & solder for the trunk and Woodland Scenics foliage for the leaves. My layout is set in late summer so I need predominantly green scenery. The method was nothing special. First one end of the stripped flex was soldered to lock the strands together. Then the branches of the canopy were formed by twisting out the strands of the copper flex in to a tree shape. Each branch node was soldered to hold it in place. Once I had formed the shape I applied flux to draw in to the remaining parts of the tree shape and then applied solder to hold the whole structure firm. At this point many apply a texture but I decided the small scale meant this was not necessary. The solder had already done the job.
     

     
    This was then spray pained to a dull grey/brown colour.
     

     
    Since the model is set in late summer I applied a dense cover of Woodland Scenics mid green foliage teased out as finely as possible, using PVA to hold it in place. It was finally given a spray of Scenic Cement to firm it up.
     

     
    Plonked on the layout
     

  19. goldngreen

    Track Laying

    By goldngreen,


    Track
    The track is glued to the foam board cover on the baseboard using water proof wood working adhesive. Testing was completed bit by bit as the track laying continued.
     

     

     
  21. goldngreen

    Weathering Cows Too

    By goldngreen,


    Cattle Dock
    More on weathering cows. The cows were weathered using Modelmates Mud Brown weathering liquid. It is very easy to use. It is water soluble but dries like ink. To weather the cows I just painted it on and then let it down with a wet brush until I had the colouring I wanted. The cattle dock is weathered using the pastels method.  Perhaps I need more cows in there?
  22. goldngreen

    Baseboards

    By goldngreen,


    Marlott
    5mm ply was selected for the baseboards. If offers enough rigidity for a micro layout but is also very light. The small layout size means that a shallow edge frame suffices to provide the necessary rigidity. Having made these decisions the ply wood was bought. The images show the boards upside down showing how the edge frames are attached.

     
    No scenic sections are planned to be lower than the track so the baseboard covers the entire area. The baseboard for the fiddle yard uses the same approach.
     

     
    Construction is simple. The frame is glued to the baseboard around the edges using Evo-Stick Weatherproof Wood Adhesive. Strengthening is provided by a beading around the inside.
     
    The boards sit square with no rocking motion on the flat shelf surface below. There is no movement in them.
     

     
    The scenic baseboard was finished off with a layer of foamboard to reduce engine noise from vibration. It was glued on using the same weatherproof PVA, held down until dry with large heavy books.
     

  23. goldngreen

    Bridge

    By goldngreen,


    Scenics
    The line exits stage right through the back-scene. I have decided to use a low relief bridge to disguise this exit. The exit is just a hole in the back-scene board and also cut in to the back-scene sheet:
     

     
    The idea of the low relief bridge is that it will just slot in to the hole to make it look more bridge like. Since I want it to recede in the gap on the underside, it also has to be removable to allow separation of the layout from the fiddle yard. 
     
    Here are a couple of images of the low relief bridge from the front and from the back to show how it slots in:
     

     

     
    Construction is simple using thick card and a cut down Peco plate girder bridge side. The buttresses are finished with Scalescenes dark blue brick. 
     
    Here are a couple of images of the mock bridge in place, one front on and one from the layout viewers angle:
     

     
     

     
    More scenic work to go on in the foreground and to cover the right hand edge but I must retain the ability to remove the mock up.
  24. goldngreen

    Engine Shed

    By goldngreen,


    engine shed
    After a long hiatus for the summer progress has continued a little. The engine shed has been largely finished for some time but I put the internal white washed bricks in this week to finish the job. The engine shed will be adjacent to the coaling stage, to which I am adding coal now! 
     
    It is not modelled on a prototype. It is however in the GWR style with similarities to Tetbury without the water tower, or a shorter version of Wallingford. 
     

     
    A view looking inside a little.
     

     
    The camera never lies; having seen the images I took for the blog I will have to improve the weathering on the doors. 
     
    It will help cover the scenic break bridge to the right of the layout. This means that, amazingly, I am still largely keeping to my original plan. Here is a view of it plonked in that location. 
     
     

  25. goldngreen

    Presentation

    By goldngreen,


    Scenics
    To support the back-scene, control the viewing angles and support the lighting a presentation box was required. This is constructed out of the same plywood used for the baseboards plus a few odd bits of wood found lying around the garage. It is held together by half round moudling and glued with water proof wood working adhesive. It fits snugly round the outside of the based board and is bolted to it using large bolts with glued captive nuts. This works because the design of the Billy Bookcase means that the baseboard is slightly shorter than the bookcase - see the base board post to understand why.
     

     
    The images also show the platforms. These are built from a single piece of card and edged with Peco platform edging. The tops are painted with a mid grey and then weathered with pastels.
     

     
    The buildings have been built over a number of earlier years and may not make it to the final version.
     
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