Miss Prism

We took such design aspects as granted, Dave.... Are you fishplating 'as you go' (Exacto) or later?

Well this is a long shot, but here goes - if anyone is doing a replacement chassis job, and consequently has a spare one they don't want anymore, I'll give you the price of postage and packing.

Waay to go, Dave, but I hope you've got the height of the flexi and that ply'n'rivet aligned...

It's important to let any point actuator complete its proper movement, and Fulgurexes are no different. Martin - use one of the two sets of auxiliary switch contacts on the Fulgurex to switch your crossing polarity: The other auxiliary set can be used for indicators etc. More Fulgurex wiring information can be found here.

There is about 8.5mm movement at the Fulgurex motor itself, but it is suprising how much of that can be lost between the motor and the destination turnout if using thin wire, sloppy cranks, and inadequate guides for the wire. I read the Fulgurex instructions, but they were gobbledegook to me. Have a look here.

Just to say I saw one of the rechassised Claytons in my local yesterday, and the running was suberb.

No. There are similarities in the design, but the frame shape is different.

Excellent subject - "less is more"!

A Dragon Models kit, I guess. Do you know whether these vans (one survived until 1930 I think) ever carried GW markings?

23.5mm clear between axleboxes will be adequate for EM/P4 purposes. 2mm axles please. 20 smph max.

Nice to see this one back on track, particularly with the full set of pictures. Got a motor yet?

And we thought Ambis was complicated...

I think IKB may have corrected their later artwork, but the main problem with the Colin Waite original is that there shouldn't be intermediate verticals in the waist panelling. They can be taken out quite easily with a bit of work with a needle file.

Lovely.

Mmmmm - nice thin solder!

The apportioning of weight between the coupled wheels and the trailing axle will not be affected by how the trailing axle is suspended (whether on a solid central rocker or a set of springs). Trailing wheel springs will of course deflect under their portion of the weight, so should ideally be adjustable to keep the CSB, and hence the chassis, level. (The same argument, in principle, applies a solid rocker.) I agree about the desirability of stiffer springing on the trailing axle of an 0-4-2 - this provides good roll stability to the loco, and allowing softer springing on the coupled axles to optimise their equalisation.

Do you mean balance (as in weight distribution) or getting the loco level?

In my experience, an RSU is precisely the thing for applying local heat. On most settings however, it probably applies too much rapid heat, and this can tend to 'cook' solder pastes, resulting in a joint that would have been stronger with ordinary solder wire and an iron. I think to categorise most solder pastes as having corrosive fluxes is incorrect, but I agree that phophoric is sufficient for most brass and nickel work.

The firebox sequence pics are interesting (and useful), but I'm surprised you were able to form those top curves without any pre-bending. When I tried that, the brass 'flattened' a bit between the formers. Anyway, very neat work, but the mudhole covers do look rather overscale to me - not that I'm familiar with the prototype.

Have you got a picture of how you suspended the trailing axle?

Hmmmmm - you have drawings of Didcot buildings?

Like that parcels and cloak room, Mikkel. What is the height to the gutter?

Ken - excuse my usual fetish question, but please report what the all-up weight of your County is when you have finished it.

A well-balanced post, CK. I think you've covered the bases, and the distinction between the operation of a purely private layout, where shunting and coupling time are not paramout, and the demands of an 'exhibition' one is crucial. Personally, 3-links or screws of whatever size drive me a bit nuts, particularly the more inflexible ones, and thus I am an AJ fan, although these bring their own set of problems of course.

If the principle is just that, then what on earth is the intended function of those swing arms? Are they not superfluous, over-complicated, and a reflection of the strange mind of a designer who is uncomfortable in this whole area?