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Hi Jim, What a great job you are making of this "scratch building aid". I considered buying this kit from Scorpio, but your expose has put me off. I'm currently building the MOK 4MT tank and it's an absolute joy compared to this. You mention that many of the errors are due to Jim Harris's hand drawn artwork as opposed to CAD, I asumme. However, are the errors due to hand drawn artwork in general, or that the artwork is just badly drawn? Cheers, Peter

It's been a while since I finished the Duchess and Warren Haywood has just completed the painting and lining. To finish off the thread, here are some shots of the completed loco, apart from the glazing for the cinder guards. All the best, Peter

Hi Terry, As far as my model is concerned, it's away for painting by Warren Haywood. When it's done I'll post some pics to finish the thread. Perhaps K22009 could update us on his build, maybe in a fresh thread to avoid confusion. Cheers, Peter

Hi Peter, Very nice work as allways. I note on the centre sprung bearings that you have retained them with a washer on the inside. I abandoned this, as I found that from time to time, a bit of grit or crud would find its way in and inhibit the movement. These days I don't add the washer, but drill a hole part way into the bearing on the inside close to the frame To retain the bearing, a short 90 degree bend is made in the spring wire and this slots into the drilled hole in the bearing, preventing it from rotating and keeping it in place if you take the wheels out. The bearing can still be removed by simply lifting the spring. It's an idea I stole from Jazz although I think he no longer uses it. Cheers, Peter

Hi Stuart, What wire are you using and what diameter is it? I will check to be sure, but I think mine is 0.45mm copper. Cheers, Peter

I gave the A3 a run around the test track at Doncaster yesterday and all was well. As I mention earlier, I need to add some lead to the boiler and smoke box to increase the weight. In one or two places the wheels span due to the upward force of the bogie pivot spring, but I'm sure that will be cured by increasing the body weight. I had a nice chat with Richard Lambert on the F7 stand and compared my build to his. We have gone with the same set up for the bogie using the Gladiator side control unit, but at the rear, Richard has replaced the central wire spring on the cartazzi axle, with two operating each side. This reduces the tendency of the inside wheel to lift on curves, which have noticed on mine. I think I will change mine to the same. Here's a link to a video of it running at Doncaster. Apologies for the poor quality. Cheers, Peter

With the former A4 type non corridor tender there are only 5-6 options for a loco as running in the mid 1950s. Flying Scotsman is one which I didn't want, and of the remaining options, Blair Athol was the name I liked best and one you don't often see. Cheers, Peter

Glad you enjoyed the build. It will be finished in BR Green as 60058 Blair Athol, as running around 1956. Cheers, Peter

Hi Tony, Thanks again for the kind words on the A3. It's good to know that I have something in common with the late David Jenkinson when it comes to what to put on, or not put on to model locos and rolling stock. This for example is from an Acme kit which I built and painted some years ago. It's mostly etched brass and nickel silver with white metal castings for the front end. As far as I can tell, it's got pretty much everything on that is visible on the real thing (or was). The brake rigging and detail between the frames is somewhat compromised, but from normal viewing angles it looks the part. I recently purchased the re-released A4 from Finney 7. As a kit, it is a far superior offering to the Acme one, and off course the one piece resin casting for the boiler/streamlined casing will save a lot of time and effort. With Finney's superior design and the superb fit of the parts, it will be much easier to build. Again it will have on everything that can normally be seen, but underneath it will be more detailed because that's how the kit is designed. There's no point in "dumming it down", but all things being equal, will the model be any better than the Acme one, just because when the "great hand in the sky" picks it up, it is more detailed underneath? Here's a link to my Gladiator 7mm LNER L1 build, that you might like if you have not seen it. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/119770-gladiator-7mm-lner-class-l1-2-6-4t/ Cheers, Peter

Hi Tony, You were right to point it out (pardon the pun), but it was just a typo. However, the spelling does need to be correct on the nameplate. As to work of this standard being intimidating, I trust there is more inspiration than intimidation. Certainly that is how I view the work of the top builders when I see it. Something to aspire to (if it suits me) than put me off. I am certainly not a " I can't see it but I know it's there" type of modeller, but if something can be seen from normal viewing angles, then I like to put it on. If it can't be seen, then I don't put it on and it's a case of I can't see it and I know it's not there! I was looking at some pictures of the Dapol 7mm 57XX which show the working inside motion. It's an excellent model for the price, but looking at the inside motion, if it can't be seen from normal viewing distances and angles (and maybe it can), then what's the point in having it? Sure if you turn the model over it's there, but so is an un-prototypical cover plate in front of the motion and one behind! Don't get me wrong it's an excellent model at a good price for RTR 7mm, but I trust you get my point. That said, each to his own. Cheers, Peter

It is the 7mm version. Click on the link and it will take you to the build thread. Cheers, Peter

Hi Tony, Following our correspondence via PM, here's the photos of the Martin Finney A3 recently completed (bar the addition of some lead to increase the weight and of course painting and lining). It will be be finished as 60058 Blair Atholl as running around 1956. Sorry for the poor image quality but there are some better ones on the build thread. Here's the link for anyone who has not seen it and is interested. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/130192-martin-finney-7mm-lner-a3/page-1 Thanks again for your comments on the tender which were most helpful. Cheers, Peter

Many thanks. Thr Scorpio Std 3 tank was on my radar as a possible purchase after the Gladiator Duchess. However, having savoured the delights of the Finney A3, and then sold some models to raise funds for the MoK 4MT tank and Finney 7 A4, the Std 3 will be out of sight for some considerable time. In fact I can't see me getting one now, but you never know. Good luck with yours. Cheers, Peter

Many thanks John. Unfortunately it soon gets dirty, brass being brass! I was lucky to get it on eBay as there were a lot of people watching it. I trust things are still going well for you up in Cumbria. Have you got your Mojo back and made a start on the DA Stanier 2-6-4? You know it makes sense. Cheers, Peter PS. I ordered another 100 of the larger rivets (0.8mm X 5mm) for stock from Prime Miniatures yesterday. Received in the post this morning - Great Service.

So here are the rivets from Prime Miniatures. Less than 15 quid for 150, so good value compared to other miniature hardware. Here they are glued in place. I only added the 4 outer ones either side at the back, as they can't be seen and its a shame to waste them. And after snipping and cleaned up. Here's a few shots after putting it back together. I think I've covered everything now on the detailing. Running wise, it goes very well apart from on the curves on my brother's railway, which are far too tight. Hopefully I can get to the Doncaster show and give it a buzz around the test track, although I must put some lead in the boiler to increase the weight. It's been a really fantastic kit to build and I wish the F7 boys all the best with the sales when they re-introduce it. Cheers, Peter

Yep. That's where I got the M0.6 hex nuts to detail the slide bars. A pack of 50 rivets is less than a fiver so excellent value. Brilliant service as well - ordered the rivets last Thursday - received on Saturday, and they were just as quick when I ordered the hex nuts. Lots of other good stuff too.

MOK BR Standard 4 Tank.

The ejector drain has been completed by soldering a short length of rod under the running plate. At the front I have made and added the flanges to the steam pipe covers. And the other side. The holes in the cast saddle are for adding rivets on order from prime miniatures. The detachable boiler makes these after thoughts easy to do. Once I've added the rivets to the saddle I think that will be the building complete, and I can move on to the next build. Cheers, Peter

Hi Dave, Many thanks for the kind words. I hope you find my build useful in building yours and enjoy the kit as much as I did. On the whole it's a really nice so it will be good to hear that David has been able to put the firebox right. Cheers, Peter

Hi Dave, I tried something similar in the past but yours are much better than I achieved. Now you've shown me how to do it I might give it another try. It's a shame Hobbyhorse shut down as they did some really nice castings. Is it the Gladiator kit you are building? Cheers, Peter

Some further additional detail. First, the grab rails on the curve of the running plate. I have scribes a line on top of the boiler to represent the joint in the cladding. And added the drain pipe to the ejector pipe that ran down the for box side. It should run through a hole in the running plate, but I've not done that as it would make it difficult to remove the boiler and cab. I will solder a short length of rod under the running plate to represent the end of the drain pipe. I've also made and added the lock nut to the ejector pipe union in front of the cab. Cheers, Peter

PS, The only thing that was getting bent was the running plate edges on the tender. They were only about 0.16mm and with a wide overhang were quite vulnerable. I've doubled the thickness by soldering lengths of brass on the top edge, down each side and across the back. They are now twice as thick, more robust, but still prototypically thin in appearance. The running plate edges are just as thin on the loco, but with a much narrower overhang, are less prone to getting bent. Cheers, Peter

Hi mswjr, It's no problem. As you've seen in the thread, the wheels were on and I had to take them off. It just needs a bit of wiggling to get the wheels out but nothing untoward. Same story with the tender. Getting the wheels on and off is a must for me which is why I always build outside cylinder locos with demountable valve gear and cylinders. If it's not part of the design then I modify to achieve it. Cheers, Peter

It's an ABC VMS2C 26:1 gearbox with Maxon Motor.

The pick ups and motor have now been added and the chassis has had its first test on the rollers. I'm pleased to say it ran smoothly from the off. The middle roller was left out as the sand pipe was touching if and shorting out. Clearance is fine on the rails. Cheers, Peter