Bino

Solved! thank you all for you're assistance.

Hope this helps

thank you. I understand your theory. As a novice, I'm not sure how to wire this.

I have a 4 pin on/off latching button switch I intend using on a control panel. When I connect the power supply, the LED is on regardless of the button position. how do I wire this so that the LED only activates in the ON position?

Funny enough, I grew up in Stirling and also travelled to school on a Lodeka! I was told by someone at Model Rail Scotland a few years back that the SRPS had an option to save the Callander line but didn't persue this.

Many, many thanks for all the replies. All have been fascinating to read through. I think I have been unnecessarily confused by the diagram Peco provided on the reverse of the DS package. It showed the method by which the power feed to the DS could be switched with a DPDT switch. I now don't believe this isn't necessary for my track plan. My Up, Down and Branch Line all have separate power feeds and are all fed from bus wires. The Station Loop is fed on the BL bus. I think that if I feed the DS from the BL bus, I can operate successfully independent of the main lines. If anyone can spot any flaws in my theory, please comment.

Thanks for the responses. I've connected them briefly to a 9v battery and all but one bulb lights up. If I was to keep them, how would I wire the switch? What resistor would I need if using a 16v AC supply and where would it be placed in the circuit?.

I have a (Electrofrog) Double Slip installed. I know how to wire the frog polarity but I'm not sure how to wire up a switch for the stock rails to allow switching between different feeds. It did show this on the reverse of the Peco pack but I've lost it. I can't find any advice online. Can anyone help?

sorry, added now

many, many, many moons ago I acquired 4 of these colour light signals. They are all Green/Red and as can be seen, 2 wires are attached to each light. They are of no use to me but, before I stick them on Ebay, I'd like to test them. Trouble is, I've no idea how to. Can anyone suggest how they should be wired?

Great advice here. If I may, I have a related question. How many solenoid point motors can be fed through a Gaugemaster CDU? I have approx 30 points. Do I need more than one CDU?

I think you've misunderstood me. I was disappointed at the ratio of layouts compared to retailers and manufacturers. I do understand that taking a layout to a show is a massive undertaking by people who do it for the love of the hobby. I simply would have liked to see more layouts. The layouts I saw today were all magnificent.

Just home from the exhibition and, if I'm honest, I found it a bit disappointing. Just not enough layouts with a lot of floor space taken up by retailers and manufacturers. Blair Atholl towards Drumochter was the best layout IMHO. Hornby were very conspicuous by their absence. I suspect Simon Kohler didn't fancy a barrage of questions about pricing.

Yes, so obvious really but sometimes you can't see the wood for the trees

I did forget to say its a complete circuit layout running with DC

The diagram below shows a section in red that has no power. I have used Electrofrog points and insulating rail joiners on the frogs at the 2 arrows and this has (rather obviously) created a dead section. How do I resolve this?

Track laying is well underway on the station area. I’ve postponed fitting the point motors on the storage sidings in an attempt to get trains running before Xmas. Modifying the point work around the station will be next on the agenda.

the roadbed is soft foam. When glued to the boards and the track laid (not glued or pinned) the noise level is perfectly acceptable. However, once the track is glued down using Copydex the noise is pretty bad.

Thanks Kevin, that makes sense. I'll try it out,

Thanks John. Copydex is also a rubber based adhesive,

Woodland Scenics Roadbed is very good for noise reduction until fixed it to the boards. I have laid my track on plywood boards with the roadbed glued with Copydex. Code 75 track then glued to the roadbed again with Copydex. The noise is worse than pinning the track directly to the boards. Where have I gone wrong? all advice gratefully received Dave

Boards painted and cork lain on the storage sidings side. Track laid more or less to plan. Next steps will be motorising the points and laying track across the lifting flap. I’ve decided to go with code 75 on the scenic parts of the layout. Hopefully I’ll have at least one circuit complete by Xmas.

Hi Andy. The flap won't be a scenic part of the layout. You quite rightly point out that it sits flush with the wall in the raised position. I originally had intended this to be a lift out section but it was going to be too heavy. As it is, I've used 3mm MDF in 3 sections for the track base. It may be something I return to in the (distant) future. A single piece of board would look much better. Dave

Some progress to report. The boards have all been laid, adjusted, re-adjusted and adjusted again The main frustration was that the walls were not true. The hatch was another issue but I'm reasonably happy with the result. Gaps and holes have been filled and sanded awaiting painting.