JDW

No pics as not much has changed visually. Thankfully no lasting damage and it has been straightened out again, though I am finding the plastic quite brittle in a couple of places where a little bit too much pressure while working has caused it to crack from the bottom of the body up to a window opening. No major problem but something to be aware of. It is still a bit wavy but is now roughly the same width as a Hornby class 156 (I've no idea of the exact widths of either, but that's what I had to hand to compare with!) All the remaining gutters over the doors have been added, so all that is needed now is a dunk in hot water to soften and straighen, as well as to clean off the dust from filing and sanding, and it's ready for undercoat. I expect that it will take a while before any of the other components are available - which is fine, I still have the second to build! - so I'm not going to try and build or source a chassis and motor for it until I have those parts in hand, so I know what I'm working with and how everything fits together. Despite my worries over delivery, and the fears of some over on the Class 323 thread, I think the its so far is fine. It has (in my view) a few minor inaccuracies but I couldn't have scratchbuilt a better one, and it has been a simple and relatively easy task to make amendments to my satisfaction. The quality and resoluion of the print seems good, I have found no issues there. My only real issue so far has been the warping which I would think could have been designed out by printing it with a couple of braces across the bottom at the 'open' end of each half and behind the doors, either permanent or temporary to be removed during build to allow a floor to be fitted in one piece. Never having 3D-printed anything myself though, I wouldn't like to say "he should have done x or y" as it may not be possible, or there may be other reason's it is like it is, or indeed doing that may have caused a different problem. The brittleness is the type of plastic in general, especially as the sides are not excessively thick. Would I recommend it? Yes. Anyone who has the skills to assemble overhead wires shouldn't find it too hard a challenge! Question du jour: Does anyone know of a suitable pantograph, and does anyone have any decent pictures of the roof around that area? I'm not bothered about it being exactly the right design, so long as it is close enough (no diamond-shaped EM1 types please!) to look right.

Minor disaster du jour: To straighten the bowed bodysides I did the obvious thing, I used hot water to soften it. I used elastic bands to hold two stout plastic tube sections along the lower bodysides, before immersing in the hot (not boiling) water. I then got distracted by work and an hour later had this: At least we know it works! Unfortunately although definitely narrower it has also put a slight twist in it, so it is now sat cooling down with heavy weights inside and out to hopefully straighten and re-shape it. I wanted it a little narrow so it would spring over a chassis, but not quite that narrow! So, lesson du jour: don't leave it in hot water too long!

Not much visible progress but I'm well on my way to a set of finished bodyshells for the 323. Today I squared off the cut-out above the bogies and filled with a piece of plastic strip (1.5mm square section I think, for anyone following suit, but any similar size would do). I was careful to leave the small protrusion (damper mount?) intact, and used plenty of superglue in the hope it would ooze out and fill some of the gaps. It was relatively successful so after a light pass with some filler, I was able to gently file it back flush to the bodyside until there was just a smooth white rectangle. While I had the filler out I put a little in the original door top lines, and immediately used the back of a knife blade to remove it from the vertical grooves. Once dry and smooth I used some 0.5x0.5mm plastic strip to add new gutters above the doors. I'd like to say I made a template and did it exactly so many milimetres above the original but in reality I lined them up by eye about 2mm higher, about as high as I could without going into the curve of the roof. They are roughly in line with the top of the windscreen, as on the real thing. The centre coach is now ready for undercoat, the outer coaches still need the rain strips adding. The work to smooth the sides has meant that the orange door unlocked lights have lost a lot of their definition as have the door buttons, hopefully I'll be able to scribe the latter back in. The side destination screens on the driving cars straddle the joint between the two halves, so were always going to be a victim of filling and filing the joint. I'm not sure how I'll replace them yet but wonder if a small rectangle of clear plastic with black painted border, stuck on after painting, might work. And yes, just behind it in the pictures above is the Northern 156 being fitted with the last of my stash of Hurst detailing kits, which is almost complete apart from painting.

Some really nice work there, the tweaks to the 4-VEP make a huge difference, it looks much better.

Not that I know of. I don't think Electra have done vinyl overlays for the Lima/Hornby version that could be adapted either. I'd suggest either keeping an eye on Rainbow Railways who have produced some excellent re-liveries of the Realtrack one, or do some modelling (shock horror!) by getting hold of a Hornby one, joining DEMU where one of the members has produced and made available an easy to construct 3D printed set of replacement underframe details, along with a set of Hornby class 153 snowpoughs and BSI couplers. OK, it won't have lights and sound, but nor will a non-existant Realtrack one!

If you are using long storage roads for DMUs, and want to reduce stacking, a crossover half way down provides extra flexibility. A few of my storage roads have them, although mine is single-ended but the concept should still work to an extent. It means space to store 5 DMUs on 3 storage roads, with the three at the back all able to exit via the centre track, but keeps each track full length if I run longer trains.

Do you have a link to the Ebay listings? I think the same applies, but for wagons if its something with modernish H-frame bogies, it should be a simple job. If its older stock with brake shoes and rigging lined up with the wheels it might be harder but unless they're inside-framed (like some modern low track force bogies) it shouldn't be impossible. As @Wheatley says, it depends on how they were built.

It would be, do the run in pairs? They're not a type I see often, being the wrong side of the Pennines. I'm still undecided whether I should so two in GMPTE colours or one each in GMPTE and Centro. I like the Centro colours better I think, but in terms of painting, the GMPTE will be easier as most of the colours are available as aerosols. I'm not sure the two liveries would ever have been seen side by side, so if ever I built a layout for them, having two GMPTE ones would make more sense, but as it is they're more likely going to be display models. I'll probably finish one before I start the other. Hopefully by the time I've finished the two sets of bodies, the remained of the parts (window frames, underframe equipment etc) should be available. I've been sidetracked today back to DMUs though, and cracking on with finishing the 156 conversions with the last pair in Provincial livery, as well as remembering to take some pictures as they will feature in a future issue of DEMU's Update magazine. On top of that, thanks to a fellow member here, a second white and lilac Northern 156 has arrived, which is getting a Hurst underframe kit to match the first. Once that is done, one of them will have the white and lilac swapped around. I figured it was easier to start off with a unit in a similar livery, especially since the bluey-greyish band between the two looks an awkward colour to mix, so I can mask it off and just repaint the main body colours. That's the plan anyway, it might not work that way!

That's looking better but you seem to have a large ratio of branch platforms (4) to main line platforms (2) with no connections. I'd have a set of trailing crossovers to the left of the station to allow clockwise main line trains into the through and two bay branch platforms and to allow them to depart anticlockwise, as @stivesnick indicated at '1' on his drawing above. The right hand bay platform is next to a very wide platform, I'd get rid of the lower strip of platforms and move the bay up so it is in line with the upper of the two left hand bays. That way you get a longer platform face, and can either widen the main line platform (with fence on the upper edge against the bay, as seen at Doncaster in the south end bay that EMT services to Lincoln use) or make it look like there was a second bay there and the track has been removed. It would also balance out the platforms a bit, as the current branch platforms seem much bigger than the main line ones. It might also allow you to keep the same platform length but increase the space between the two sets of bays to provide more circulating space for passengers. I'd move the light blue to dark blue connection as far to the left as possible to give you the longest possible loop to stable a freight train. I'm still not convinced about the light blue freight bypass above the station/TMD (unless that's a non-scenic area) as it will have to float above the TMD tracks. It cant't run on arches as there is track below, and couldn't sit on a series of girders as again there's nowhere for the piers to support them. A cantelevered concrete structure would allow it to overhand the tracks below but that would suggest a much more modern structure that tends to be found on high-speed lines or motorways rather than an old freight route. Even then finding space for the pillars where tracks run under will be awkward. The platforms look quite short, how long are they, a nd what kind of trains do you intend to run? Looking at what you have I'd guess the green (anticlockwise) one would fit 5-coach trains (loco+4 or a 2+3 HST) and if the yellow to blue connection were as far to the right as possible, the yellow (clockwise) one would fit an extra coach. I'd be tempted to replace the loco spur on the left of the green platform and make that into part of the loop, rejoining the main line on the curve to give a longer platform. That said, I'm conscious that trains at Doncaster do snake across the pointwork into the platform (especially those arriving from the south) and it might be more important to replicate that than have longer platforms. Where possible I'd try and make the platforms as wide as possible, especially the one between yellow and blue lines, to give an impression of space. The light blue points bottom right look very squashed in. I can see why it's like that to allow for the up and down gradients of the two routes, but it will impinge on the main lines below, and introduce reverse curves (left-right-left if running anti-clockwise or vice versa) which are always best avoided where possible. it would be better if the left hand point formed the start of the curve, but it might not work out with the gradients. There seems to be a similar problem of trying to fit too much with the left hand side, where the light blue crosses all 4 tracks then re-crosses two. It might look spectacular but the real railway wouldn't build something like that, and again it will be hard to fit in the piers to support a realistic-looking bridge. If I've understood right, it also means a limited length for the track to descend back to station level. Having it branch off to the outside at the start of the lower left curve (where the blue arrow head is) would give a gentler gradient and save having to criss cross every other track twice. Sorry, that's a lot of text, it is hard to get across things in text that would be simple with a picture! Looking forward to seeing this develop though, should be an interesting layout. What era/time frame are you looking at?

No pictures but I've filed off the rain strip above each door, to move them up by about 2mm. I've ordered some 0.5mm x 0.5mm plastic strip to add the new ones, and using the tip of a razor saw held carefully like a pen (a knife blade was too thin, the saw blade matched the door lines already there), I extended the door lines upwards. The joints between each half has been filled and smoothed, a trip to Halfords will be needed for some more primer before I can do much more. The only other job to do before that is fill the recesses above the bogies using plasticard, the bottom of the body as far as I can see should be straight, roughly in line with the bottom of the doors as in this image: https://www.philt.org.uk/UKModernRail/1995-2005/i-THPxn3f/A

Nice to see someone doing the vinyls on the 158s properly and preparing the sides rather than just stick them on top of everything. I look forward to seeing the finished result.

Welcome. Looks interesting, and having spent time at Doncaster on many occasions I can see why you want to replicate the feel. A couple of points to add to what has been said already: The light blue branch looks like it will be very awkward above the dark blue, as well as being a big scenic feature which will be hard to make look realistic, running parallel to and above the dark blue. I would suggest the branch might be better as a simple oval on one level, or maybe move the loop so it runs underneath the same as the fiddle yard. Otherwise it will dominate the scene and look rather odd I think. Some of the platforms look a bit short, especially the orange main line one. Starting the loop on the curve at the left hand end with a set of right hand points would both eliminate the reverse curve through the points into the platform and allow the platform to be longer. If possible, I'd look at doing the same to the left hand end of the green line too. Above the top platform you have a set of points starting a loop half way along it. It would be better for that loop to be the full length of the platform otherwise if a train is in the platform it will block the loop. Points against straight platform edges also mean you'll have a risk of the overhang of long coaches scraping the platform unless you leave a much larger gap. The arrangement with the diamond crossing and the light blue arows showing one track for each way looks odd too. The platform and (extended as above) loop would both likely be bi-directional. Anything crossing from light blue to dark blue from the right would enter the (extended) loop, not enter the platform road then cross the loop on a diamond crossing - that would effectively make the loop useless as you couldn't use it for stabling trains, and nohing could cross it if there were a train in the platform already.

Thanks @Jack374, I don't think it'll reach the calibre of your modelling, but I think it will turn out OK. It is surprising what a difference the pen makes, I'm just glad it wasn't Northern purple or Centro green that I needed!

Still debating the door height so I decided to do some 3D doodling with a black and red marker pen. I think it confirms my impression that the window line is just a tad low, and that the rainstrips above the doors are too. Looking at the proportions of the colours, and comparing to my 3D doodle, I think I will look at moving the rain strips up and extending the doors. In my doodle below the dark grey runs above the top of the door/rain strip, on the real thing it is across the top of the door. The red stripe will cut across the cab window but any lower and there won't be enough dark grey. Overall though, it still looks like a 323, the error isn't major and it should still look fine when finished. Certainly better than I could do from scratch!

I don't. Thoughts so far include a Bachmann 158/166/170 chassis, or a power bogie from a Hornby 156 (possibly two, but it should be light enough for 1 I think). I want to keep costs down so the latter would be the cheapest.

Oh, sorry. It's lucky I don't have any more pictures of progress other than these late night pics of the joint: I reckon in should smooth out okay. I think I might look at adjusting the door heights by removing the rain strip and adding a new one a couple of mm higher. Looking at the livery lines on a GMPTE unit, it looks like the dark grey stripe at the top would end up above the rain strip on the model instead of below.

It is, and I've amended my post above to add that this is a test print so has a couple of imperfections including, as you say, a small chunk missing from the destinaton screen, though once behind glazing I don't think it will be very visible. Especially since the pics above are much larger on most people's screens than the model itself, so it is much more noticeable here than looking at it on my desk. I don't know about glazing yet, it will no doubt take the form of clear plastic from some source or other but that's about as much thought as I've given to it so far.

I've posted on my workbench thread, but for those who might not see it, my two units arrived, well packed and undamaged. Despite the delay, I'm happy with the model itself, although as has been said above the halves were somewhat warped at the 'open' end, it would have been a good idea to design them with a couple of braces across the bottom at floor level to keep them square. with a bit of filing, the two halves seem to come together OK but will of course need the joine re-inforcing. I plan to use strips of square or L brass section along the full length of the vehicle at floor level, to give strength and hopefully keep them from bowing at the bottom. I might add one at cantrail height too if I think it needs it. Obviously some filing will be needed too around the joint, but at least the smooth sides make for easy filing and sanding. I didn't find print lines to be too bad, and an hour or so of work with a soft sanding block has gotten rid of most of them. Pics are on my thread for anyone who wants a closer look. My only concern with the model itself is that the window line seems a tad low and the doors a little squat, but that may just be because it is in unpainted plain grey, which can make it hard to judge.

I have started doing some prep work on the 323, apart from the bowing out of the 'open' ends of each half, they seem pretty good. Very little 'flash' and the print lines are not very obvious. A bit of work with a soft sanding block has gotten rid of most of the print lines, probably an hour or so of work per unit. I'm finding light pressure and sandinf along the grain rather than across it is giving better results. EDIT to add that this is one of the "rejected" test prints so has a few minor imperfections. I bought one at full price but when I saw these being advertised for much less it seemed a good way to get a second one, and have one to practise on without worrying about damaging an expensive kit. The next jobs will be to join the two halves, I think I will look at ordering some brass section, either square or L shaped, to run the full length of each coach to ensure it is as stiff and square as possible. In the meantime, I didn't have any grey primer to hand so used some yellow to give one end a quick blast just to check how much more work might be needed and whether the print lines were still visible. From more that a foot away it looks fine, close up still needs a little work. I touched in the windscreen and lights in with a black marker pen to give me and others on here a bit of an idea of how it looks, it can be hard to tell sometimes in plain grey. Its looks a bit rough, but thats more because its not a proper finish rather than the model itself: You can still see print lines in the black area around the destination and below the windscreen, I hadn't touched that area, which it about the worst area for lines - and even then not particularly bad. Overall I'm pretty happy so far.

My 323 shells have arrived, and don't seem too bad. The quality of printing is better than anticipated. There are a few things I'll need to look at, the area over the bogies doesn't look quite right but I've only had a quick look over them so far. The saloon windows seem a little low and the doors a little squat, although the windows seem ok in relation to the bottom of the windscreen. First off though will be joining the two halves together. There is a rebate to locate one in the other, but they seem to have bowed outwards at the bottom. It might have been good to include a couple of cross-braces to hold the sides in line and also provide a convenient way to mount it onto a chassis. But it doesn't look like there should be a major issue, the plastic feels quite rubbery. Can anyone recommend a particular type of glue? Will plastic weld touch it? Superglue? Contact adhesive?

Trains, what trains?! Actually, it seems my 323 has arrived although I'm away for work at the moment so can't check til I get back. The 141 has finally been delivered to a friend who will brush paint the red and cream and apply transfers. At least it was on a Volvo chassis though, always pretty decent to drive though I have to say I preferred the older B10BLEs to newer B7RLEs. I've only driven a Solo a couple of times on loan to us, I've not had a newer one, but comparing that or a Dart to something newer like a Streetlite, the big difference is electrics. A Solo or Dart has electrics, whereas a Streetlite is all electronics. I've driven a few Darts where the accelerator was more like an on-off switch, amongst various other "quirks", but a good driver can live with that and adapt his technique to moderate and control it. Ever tried to sound the horn on an Enviro300? Have to ask the computer. Push button. Release button. Slight pause. BEEP!

In that case, it might have been prudent to say that at the beginning... Better to explain the actual situation, rather than just "I asked for info and didn't get it"

A proper reply isn't at all an unreasonable thing to ask for. I'm assuming from what you said that the automated reply was along the lines of "we're busy, we'll answer you when we can" with maybe some of the FAQ's answered. And from the messages above, a reply to the specific enquiry was sent a short while later, so a "proper reply" was received. Automatic responses are pretty common, to acknowledge receipt of an email. They don't necessarily mean that that is the end of it. If you'd said they hadn't answered for three weeks, fair enough. My own work emails have an "out of office" message at the moment, and I answer when I can. Even when I'm looking at my emails when one arrives, I'm often in the middle of writing another or doing something else, and you can't constantly stop doing what you're doing to answer that one. If you do, then another one comes in, and you break off to look at that, then the next, and before you know it you're trying to do six things at the same time, in a complete confusion, and mistakes happen. I'll finish the task I'm doing before starting the next, unless it looks absolutely vital and urgent.

I've had a message via Ebay saying that both have been dispatched, in two parcels (but mixed - not one unit in each) so clearly the initial notification of having been posted was incorrect as per some of the commets above. No apology or acknowledgement of the delay/lack of information, and the message in capitals, but it seems at least there has been some positive progress. Hopefully they'll both arrive soon.

And after a couple of days of limited internet access I checked my emails just after posting my last message to see that my second one has been marked as posted. No news on the first one still though.