RichardW1

Work on the 2-4-0 for Lambourn goes on a bit more today. Attention has now turned to the inside frames for the tender. Incidentally the tender frames in the photos I have look more like Midland /LMS forms rather than more traditional Dean shape. That's nice! The N Brass tender is a bit over size so I have had to make some compromises. Any way the inside frames carrying the wheels will be separated by spacers made from N/S in a 'L' shape. These are to be soldered to pads of very thin PCB. Nothing new here, it follows the established principles. The little tab of N/S standing up from the rear of the frame with a slot (arrowed in the picture) will be replicated on both frames. The slot is intended to engage with the thin protrusion of the trndr footplate into the rear of the body- (marked with a box on the picture) this will stop the rear of the chassis from falling out. There will be just one screw at the front to hold the chassis to the tender body. I'll put some little blocks in to stop the rear of the chassis from sliding left to right. As the tab is on the inside of the PCB there should be no short circuiting of the frames through the tender body.

Wait a tic--- is this my opportunity to claim some missing post? That way I can have spare parts for when I cock it up!. (the post date was November 2010) having turned out the gloat box to make sure! (and finding the Jubilee bits I was looking for as well! It sits happily awaiting my retirement, when I can have time to do it justice. Richard -

Everyone seems to be busy, including me. The 2-4-0 has taken a further step forward with the basic box construction for the tender. This, is I confess, a bit of a cheat as it uses the etches from an N-Brass Dean Goods, so the dimensions are probably a bit off. That does not overly worry me as it's only a GWR loco! (Heresy I hear you cry - quite right orf with his head!) Still it gives me a fighting excuse to a) get it wrong- not my fault - someone else did the etching, and b) try and get it finished before Xmas. So here it is posed with no wheels on a scrap of Templot output for effect. I have to add the little flared corners but need to make a little tool first, then find a motor to stuff in it. Just to add insult to injury If I can't find any GW tender axleboxes I'll have to root around in the box and see if I can find some GER ones instead! (kidding)

I look forward to seeing this progress as there is one in my gloat box. Mind you I'm not sure how often they pulled 4 wheel coaches to Lambourn!

So I have made a start on the boiler fittings - and cut the rods to shape (nearly, the need thinning down a little bit more yet). The rods are made from an old tin box, a useful source of plated steel that can be worked acceptably well. The centres were found by a simple dodge- measure the actual axle centres from the frames using a gear depthing gauge. This allows the centres to be transferred accurately. In fact I prefer this to the older method, oft quoted ie to sweat the frames and material for rods together , then drill. If the drill wanders, as it may well do through that lot, then you have centres that aren't thus leading to hours of fun making them so they are!

Well now, it's surprising how things turn out. Since the last post I have had to completely rebuild the boiler unit. A final bit of milling of the cavity for the mechanism went a tad wrong and the cutter caught the thin section of the fire box, twisted it and then ran down the outside- That'll teach me to try and take too deep a cut. So a couple of hours later, with some ripe words for encouragement and a new one was assembled. The rivets in the smoke box wrapper are to give an indication of texture- I think there should be more of them, but I'm not counting- shame on you if you are The splashers and splasher tops have now been fitted. There is nothing special here, just simple discs of N/S cut with a piercing saw, and soldered in place. curved strips complete the tops. The now has to be a little bit of time spent preparing the boiler for fitting to the footplate. Then the boiler fittings can be added. The touble with having radio in the workshop is that this has all been accomplished whilst listening to Helen's great triumph in the Borsetshire courts. Who'd of thought she wouldn't win

John, You seem to have got this truly round, something I have struggled to do well in the past. That is while I now turn the boiler Keep up the good work. Richard

jpgNow that the GWR 4 Wheel coaches are respectable, (still got to add the couplings mind) attention has turned to a suitable engine to pull them. Lambourn has in it's fleet a Farish Railcar, Langley Auto train (now quite ancient) 64xx-Dapol, 57xx Farish, & another 57xx Dapol. All have been converted from commercial items. Time has come to add something a little more - shall we say esoteric? The branch was often operated with ex MSWJ Rly 2-4-0 tender locos. These were Westernised (nothing new about conversions) and it seems to me that one of these will make a delightful addition to the line. A start has now been made, with the main loco frames cut out and assembled, and the footplate, cab and boiler unit well under way. It's been a while since I scratchbuilt a loco, so a bit of thinking has been required. The loco is small, and I want as much weight in it as I can achieve. To that end the boiler and fire box are machined in one piece from brass, with a N/S wrapper for the smokebox. the unit as pictured is the two parts suitable soldered together.

Hi Valentin- whether or not you use omega. Loops is up to you, I prefer to use the springiness of the wire,but not too springy, as I think back pressure on the servo is not good. There is a servo unit manufacturer whose units absolutely rely on no spring, as the servo position is used to measure if the blades are fully over this provides a fault indication, and is sensitive to getting a tiny piece of ballast between the set closed position. As for using grease, consider if it is conductive- difficult problem to resolve if it is. It may just require working a little for the squeak to go away Richard

[quote name="Ian Morgan" post Please, somebody tell me if it is worth the effort. Ian, it's worth it

It's dark here in south Leicestershire, and we have a good thunderstorm right now. So I thought I'd get a bit more done on the 6/4 wheel coaches for Lambourn. There are a few bits still to do- final touch on some panel painting, couplings, and roof access grab rails on one end of each coach. Now I suppose I had better turn my attention to a nice little tender engine to haul it back to Newbury!

Hi Justin,I like the Vobster look! As Mark mentioned Lambourn suffered at AP with a wire in tube, we got it back to TFWs on the Saturday for a repair. Basically active flux had finally eaten thro the wire at the point it connected to the lever, so repair was thankfully straightforward. Tonight I am trying to sort out an electrical issue with the goods shed siding in readiness fo next weekends outing to Bognor (I don't want to be in the position of repeating what the old King is reputed to have said!) My new workshop is making good progress, and should be back in action after Bognor , I can't wait! Richard

looks good Mark, what's the wee beastie top right?

I am conscious that posts here have been sparse lateley, mainly the result of building works at home. 1860s terraced houses are draughty, especially when the windows are original! So new glazing units all round, which has meant decanting the workshop. Then while there is noting in the workshop thought I'd redecorate, er........ So old floor boards up, new wiring, new floors, (hard wearing laminate) new skirting ( still to fit). Many thanks to Mike R in getting the floor down. Then I can rebuild the benches, and get my workshop back. Oh that's after I redecorate my bedroom, ....that needs a new floor too..######! Still some evening work in the front room table has progressed 4 wheel coaches for Lambourn

Depends if you want to take the roof off for painting, or detailing the interior. If it is permanent then superglue is often adequate. I have a gwr auto trailer where the roof slides off, L shaped latches on the roof engage with ribs spanning between the sides. Bogies are best fitted with bolts, 12BA is normal, these can engage into nots, soldered onto the floor, or tapped holes. However there are 'nut runners' available (basically a 12BA socket spanner, that can hold a loose nut internally, while you screw the bolt in. ( I prefer a tapped hole, or soldered nut personally) it is a good idea to obtain a suitable tap to clean out the threads in a nut if you solder them in place, solder can easily get where it's not wanted Good luck with your endeavours Richard

I was puzzling over the clapboard background to the picture, then realised that it is the rulings in your notebook. good God, a new obsession--------------------- cutting mat spotting!

You solder your fingers??!, well, perhaps "Lord President" will be rechristened "Silver Flux".

Right index finger shows a nice evidential "v" cut. Have you found out the hard way that scalpels are sharp! One might ask why you use a finger as a cutting mat?

You've got too much time on your hands!!

Looks lethal to me. Sort of thing Tommy would have whittled from a spare cartridge whist waiting for a bit of action!

what about using one of our loco tender or loco pony wheels? there ought to be one near for that? possibly not the open spoke ones though.

That looks good Jerry- are to going to build a Oil Well branch for the Colliery? perhaps a motorised 'nodding donkey' in the yard! On a serious note, have you considered dispensing with a separate frame under the tender- a la Greenwood style? It might help drop the motor a bit more. If the main tender body frames are lined with some thin PCB the split frame approach can be maintained. Richard

mm I've got one of those in the gloat box- but the 800 2-4-0 will be first out of the workshop. I love the coaches Jerry - will look good on Maxstoke II or whatever I end up calling it. Richard