RichardW1

Well a hour or so after we have replaced the wheel axles. The pictures are largely self explanatory, the key thing is that the part that is inserted into the wheel was deliberately over length, so that a short taper could be put on to help center the wheel in the staking tool , before pressing it home. All that remains is to re- assemble the engine.

At Wakefield this year my Raithby Etch built 4F started acting up. Inspection has revealed serious wear of the rear axles. Curiously, the worn section is both tapered and eccentric. The bearings seem to be quite OK. So the job to replace the axles with steel, rather than the turned brass of the original starts. The key points here are that he turning tool needs to be necked to pass the closing nut for the collet holder, the final axles before fitting are shown as well

Has now been made. Brass sections, the mast and main beam silver soldered for strength. Paint and planting required.

I guess it was inevitable, after 40 years since Allen built the original mode, and many years of exhibition damage, the acquisition of a kitten finally put paid to it. Very sad, but it has given me the opportunity to build a new model, which is now complete, bar the cable and hook. Those will be fitted when the new model gets reinstated.

Don't forget the down pipes from the gutters, how about an old drum or barrel as a water butt. External soil and vent pipes would also be evident. This is turning out to be a super looking building.

Is that a new controls shelf? In any event it looks like it needs a wine glass holder and a ready eat cake rack." Diet" cake of course.

Thanks for you assistance today David. It was very much appreciated. There is much to at Lambourn, particularly on the wiring front.

Really not happy with the Sagami motor. Imho it's not well enough balanced and vibrates badly. May have to go back to the drawing board for this. Before I give up completely I need to add some mass to the tender, if not it's a new motor and / or loco chassis.

Getting envious ! Viaduct looks great, double header better.

Hi Gareth the little bearings are the same size as Ian's, you could try his source Thanks Ian, . In fact I got mine in 1997 at a show in Germany price 1 euro for 4 bearings ! I got 8!

Well, the darn thing works now. After a bit of fiddling around with the drive train, and electrical pick up it has ground its way along my test track. There is much to do before I am satisfied. The worm shaft is supported at the front end with a plain bearing, at the rear is a tiny ball race. 4mm OD. The rear end of the shaft has two flats filed into it and is cross drilled for the thin wire flex shaft. This is very thin, and I may replace it with a thicker gauge of wire. The rear end of the drive shaft has a loop bent into it and engages with a socket made from brass, which is attached to the sagami motor. Current is transferred from the loco to the tender via two p/b springs which engage into 14BA nuts soldered to the rear of the loco frames. These also help to transfer a bit of weight from the tender to the rear of the loco, as this is naturally front heavy. There is not enough side play in the leading axle, so I will have to attend to that. Dear old Mike Bryant used to narrow the frames a little in cases like this, so a bit of surgery is called for. Unfortunately, I don't think it will see duty at Watford.

Well, the darn thing works now. After a bit of fiddling around with the drive train, and electrical pick up it has ground its way along my test track. There is much to do before I am satisfied. The worm shaft is supported at the front end with a plain bearing, at the rear is a tiny ball race. 4mm OD. The rear end of the shaft has two flats filed into it and is cross drilled for the thin wire flex shaft. This is very thin, and I may replace it with a thicker gauge of wire. The rear end of the drive shaft has a loop bent into it and engages with a socket made from brass, which is attached to the sagami motor. Current is transferred from the loco to the tender via two p/b springs which engage into 14BA nuts soldered to the rear of the loco frames. These also help to transfer a bit of weight from the tender to the rear of the loco, as this is naturally front heavy. There is not enough side play in the leading axle, so I will have to attend to that. Dear old Mike Bryant used to narrow the frames a little in cases like this, so a bit of surgery is called for.

thats what I'm hoping for Jerry. That, pulling 4 and 6 wheelers will be fab.

the 2-4-0 progresses, it now sits on it's wheels, always a mark of advancement. The basic mechanism is in place, the worm needs to be fitted along with the flexible drive shaft. Next job will be the drag bar. You never know this time next week it may be working.

A bit, ok a lot, off topic. Are there any model submariners out there? A work colleague passed away recently, and was interested and had built some r/c subs. I have asked if I knew of any folks who may be interested in acquiring his models or tools. As yet I'm not sure what is available, or indeed any values, but I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has, or perhaps knows someone who has an interest in this area. She has not decided yet what she wants to let go of as it is still a bit raw for her, so there is no rush over this. Richard

Rather than being a 4-2-0, it's now upside down! Not sure now that happened

The 2-4-0 for Lambourn is now taking shape. Now the major work is done for the basic body and tender, attention can now be given to the chassis. The basic components are in place, and while I wait for delivery of loco wheels I'll spend a bit of time making muffs and motor mounts.

The next layout is planned......somewhere....there is always a " next layout", but as to whether any of us will see it built is another matter altogether. That privilege should rest with a younger generation. Tim, Mike, get your pipe and slippers ready!

Be good to see it back on the NLR

Hi Ian, The two vertical tabs are indeed insulated. They sit on pads of 10 thou double sided PCB, and so are electrically not connected to the frames. The pictur in post 1410 should clarify. Richard

Looking good as ever Gareth, yes you should do more!

On reviewing this post I realised that you can't see the holes for the springs. This may help, overmarked are the positions of the springs to the axles. The rectangular area is where the motor mounting plate will be fitted- above the diameter of the axle muffs.

Here the main tender chassis has been erected. The little tabs to hold the rear of the chassis are arrowed. The next task is to find a suitable motor- probably an Association can type or maybe a small coreless one. Then a fixing plate will need to be fashioned out of PCB or something to enable the motor to be screwed in place. I will add secondary current collectors for each axle. You can see the little holes in the frames near the axles for these.