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@Kristhat's amazing. I will have a proper look at it later and come back. UPDATE: @Kris I've printed out a list of parts from my SCARM file and will print off your list and compare them later. Thanks again.

Thanks again for doing this. I would like to give it a go. However I would want to use as much of the track I have already if possible. If you used SCARM, could I get the file from you?

Thanks for your time and trouble. It looks amazing and much more realistic than mine.

Thank you very much for your extremely comprehensive reply @The Johnster, which I have printed out to read tomorrow. Together with the reply from @ITG I have enough to keep me going for several coffees and even more slices of chocolate cake. I'll come back to you both then, if that's OK? Just to mention a couple of things, quickly...I've inserted a photo of the baseboard I'm getting (hopefully in 2 or 3 days) above where I mention that it can stand in the middle of its dedicated 'train room'. I've already got shelves packed with rolling stock, Metcalfe kits, tools and others jewels and the track for the extension section, which is in pieces. The trakmat layout is completed and on the floor, and has power throughout from a 4 amp transformer, through the Hornby Select controller (but I'll be getting it wired). My dad's shunter was owned and operated by BICC (British Insulated Callender's Cables, Prescot Lancashire) and was used to bring ore for copper cables from the mainline throughout the factory. He worked with that train for about 30 years, and it retired before he did (after 40 years). I was born 2 miles from Rainhill (as in Stephenson's Rocket at the trials) and lived and worked in that village for 12 years. So, all things considered, I'm probably halfway to being 'one of us', as railways were big part of my early life. However it's only now, in retirement, that I have time to think about them in 1:76 scale. I'm really looking forward to it.

Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately, I don't have the railway modelling 'nous' yet to know how it could be different. So I'm resigned to making the best of that track plan. But, as you point out, it's not like a real railway, and for me, lumping all the scenery in the middle is a bit too 'Toy Town' and smacks of a children's layout, which is why I started this thread, to be honest. I need to try and help it grow up a bit. For example, I saw Pete Waterman on the Hornby TV series last night, saying that his huge 74ft layout for Chester Cathedral has no real scenery, as most real railway lines are just cut through fields.

@ITG This is very helpful indeed. I'll print it out, have a proper read and a think and when I've thunk hard, I'll come back to you. Thanks again.

What you outlined is something I have envisioned doing on my layout. However, I'm so inexperienced that I hadn't considered that shunting on the layout (as shown) would 'foul the mainline', or why. The track plans books says that this layout...@makes allowance for a terminus, goods shed, loco depot and coal stage'...(and)...'all these facilities provide extra capacity to improve the potential for general train movements'. I assumed from the last sentence that it would be suitable for running mainline trains while shunting in the 'yard'. If you have time, I would welcome any thoughts on how I might re-plan the bottom right corner, as I can't see what needs to be done. Although it might come clearer once I start running trains.

So far I've got 3 locos; the tiny Hornby Ruston 48DS and flatbed shunter, a weathered Bachmann Ivatt with sound and the Hornby 60163 'Aberdonian' loco with 3 carriages. I also have about 6 wagons (weathered with local factories related to my dad's old job, which were very weird to find) and few old carriages and brake vans, etc, from eBay.

I was hoping it might be something that would have some' give' in real life, as Hornby don't mention it and it's definitely set track not flexi-tack. In fact the SCARM creator suggests (on his help page) that the software doesn't allow for a bit of pushing and pulling of set track. But I have also considered flexitrack - and if I use it, I'll no longer consider myself neophyte when it comes to modelling. It's a ready built baseboard on legs, made of 9mm 'furniture grade' MDF, by the only company in Ireland that make such things full time (see photo). It's going to have its own room and there will be access all round. Thanks for all the advice @ITG - just seen your 2nd post, I'll give it a good read now. UPDATE: The only coupling 'device' I've bought so far is the Hornby railing and coupling track R620.

Thank you for that @Ian Simpson. I definitely think an industrial area and/or goods yard are essential as the shunter my dad drove took ore for copper cable from the mainline around a factory. I've been YouTubing ways to model a suitable ground cover for it, and I've got George Dent's 2nd book on weathering but no real ideas as yet. As for houses, although I'm from a very urban part of the UK, I now live in the middle of nowhere surrounds by lakes and mountains, so I think too many houses would not be in keeping with this location. I also want to model a steam era mainly, other than the odd shunter.

My 8x4ft baseboard is due to arrive tomorrow, after what seems like an eternity (I've been planning my first ever layout since April - it's now November) and it will be Trakmat Extension 4, in the Hornby Track Plans Book (2021). I've got everything I need for this extension and the full trakmat layout is assembled (on the floor). So, hopefully the extension section won't take too long. Among the learning curves I've been on is SCARM and I've 'assembled' the layout in that software too (see below). My issue(s) are these: 1) I'm not a fan of the open space in the middle of the trakmat layout and 2) I've decided not to use a turntable, as per the extension section. So, I'm seeking suggestions on what I could do instead (using track) in the 2 areas marked in blue on the SCARM image, please. Also, 3) SCARM is showing that the connection between an R8073 and R607 (shown by the red cross) won't work. The trakmat plan uses this connection and doesn't mention any issues. Your thoughts are welcome. Please bear in mind when replying: A) I'm a complete novice, B) I am committed to this layout and baseboard size (it just fits and all the track is purchased). However, I can buy some extra track if needed. 3) My dad drove the shunter in my avatar, so I'd like an industrial area dedicated to him. Thanks for any suggestions.

Thank you for the helpful photos. I have a power track, and I've already taken the capacitor out some weeks ago. My issue was that I had been given to understand that a power track is best used as part of an oval. Because of the layout I am planning (a Trakmat extension), it was only possible to put the power track on a siding. However, I tried it yesterday, on the full Trakmat layout -but without the extension - and there was power throughout the layout, with a 4amp transformer and the Select controller. So, it may be OK until I get the layout wired up.

You might send the the link when it's up. I play tenor and soprano. UPS lost my soprano 6 months ago, when it was being sent for repair and it never came back. It was worth nearly £3000, and I had to buy a cheap (but very acceptable) one from Thomann, for a bit more than the £300 compensation they paid me! I thought I'd start a model railway to help me relax from the stress of it!

I have vast experience with this one...

I've never done it and will try to avoid it if I can. That said, I'm not scared of learning curves (I'm teaching myself to speak Russian at the age of 66 and began playing the saxophone at 58 - and am up to grade 7 jazz, now). I just want to spend most of my time actually modelling and not building. Having worked in and then taught Psychology at Uni's for 30 years I know 2 things...some people like to show their experience while ignoring the inexperience of others and...it's OK to be inexperienced.

Thanks for that advice. I actually removed the capacitors in a piece of power track that I hadn't realised was 'DC' only (apparently), so I have got the wire cutters bought!

The suggestion I've seen is to use Peco presoldered wire, that is connected to fishplates, as droppers.

I'm paying someone to put in the wiring for me. Also, (from my weeks spent on YouTube) it seems very possible to wire the track without soldering (using snap connectors).

But probably not as easy for a complete beginner, like me. I'm taking the line of least resistance for now. Speaking of resistance, I've bought a multimeter but still don't know how to use it!

That's very helpful, thank you.

Because of where I live (in the SW of Ireland), it will cost me £25 to buy one Hornby R8242 DCC power clip, with shipping. However, I can buy a 2-pack of R8021 for £9.40 on Amazon (with free shipping). Can anyone advise me if the R8021 clip is DCC compatible (there is conflicting advice on the Amazon page) or, if it can be converted to DCC by removing the capacitors? Thanks in advance for any advice.

Based on your background, there is no one better qualified than you. That sentiment is relevant to my own previous missives.

Every time I join a new forum, I hope there won't be someone who just wants to make fun of my (reasonable and often very literate) posts, and make me regret that I joined. Occasionally, I'm disappointed. I now have zero tolerance for such posts and ALWAYS report them but sometimes in vain (we'll see). As for your corrections on my grammar, I'm pretty sure I'm using the phrase you mentioned in an acceptable manner. But, as I said, I've only written 3 text books and worked as associate editor for a prestigious photography magazine for 12 years. What do I know?

Maybe you should get your wife to tell you what this forum is about. I need help on model railways. I have a master's degree and I've written three books, I'm ok with English.

I'm very new to railway modelling, and I have just bought £1600 worth of track, locos and accessories to start a new layout (I'm expecting the 8x4ft baseboard next week). I didn't know about the difference between code 75 and code 100 track and I bought Hornby track, because it's the name I know from my childhood - about 100 years ago. I live in the south west of Ireland (now) and there is only one model rail 'dealer' in the country (with 2 branches) and it's a 6 hour round trip to the nearest one. So, I've been buying most things online, and much of it from the UK, including Hattons and Hornby. I have enough track to make the Hornby Track Plans layout and extension 4 (see below), and I bought all the track separately (i.e. I haven't bought a 'train set' of any kind). Total cost of that track so far is around €500. So, while not being sure of the issues around buying code 75 track, I can reassure you that if you need to buy code 100 (from Hornby) you will have no problem at all.