latestarter

Thanks very much for the explanation @Nick Holliday. it really helped clear up a lot of technical language that I wasn't previously familiar with. I am now very clear about what a 'frog' is - rather than just assuming it was the pointed plastic bit. I'll go and check the point and also the back-to-back on the pony truck (get me!) The two wing rails are definitely metal, and possess a multi-meter (God knows why, I might just as well possess a Hadron Collider) and I'll check if they are live. I am also going to see if I can dismantle the Ivatt to check that the pickups are positioned correctly around the wheels. More importantly, I'm also going to see if I can get it back in one piece!

Thanks again I'll try and have a look tomorrow.

Thanks very much for that, and it's a bit worrying. The ones I can see (in the last photo) seem to show the pickup lying along the curve of the wheels (sort of upside down half-moon shape). But, mine hang down from inside the loco, with the small 'dot' touching the wheel. This may have a bearing on why my Ivatt is not crossing the points well, and not at all when less than 1/3rd speed - even though I seem to have got all pickups touching the wheels. . I wouldn't be skilled enough to dismantle the loco, but I'll have another look tomorrow to see if the pickups can be re-arranged without snapping them off.

Thanks again for taking the time and trouble to do this. I'm going to print it out and have a good read tomorrow.

That's another learning curve flattened, thank you again. The 'bypass wiring' you mentioned several hundred posts back, is my next 'Everest'. If you get time, I'd welcome a quick overview of what that is and if it will be easier than bus wires and droppers.

Thank you again. I'm quite pleased that I (almost) worked that out for myself. I saw reference to 'trailing' points here but didn't know what they were. I've looked it up on Wikipedia since. There's another type (but the word escapes me.)

Just had a couple of hours in the 'railway room' (as it's now been christened) and I'm having more questions arise than answers, but that's probably a good thing, at my early stage. I'm also having trouble with my Bachmann Ivat on points, which I post in another thread, to keep it tidy, as I suspect the issue is with the loco and not the track. Here's a couple of technical questions that occurred to me, should anyone wish to chip in with their thoughts...bearing in mind I feel a bit like I'm imposing now, but at the same time could not manage without your help. 1. @The Johnster mentioned that I may only need 'bypass' wiring, as I'm definitely getting power throughout the whole layout. There does not seem to be a drop in power with 3 locos running. The Aberdonian goes at a reckless speed when at max throttle. My soldering iron arrives tomorrow...So, what is 'bypass wiring' and how do I do it? 2. I've had some problem with all 3 locos (Aberdonian, Ruston and Ivatt) derailing always when crossing points. Usually those close to the lower sidings and especially the ones next to the diamond crossing. My guess is that it's because the points were set against the direction of travel (I have no better way to put that and it's just my own 'feeling). Is that a 'thing', do the points have to be set a certain way - according to the way the train is moving to avoid derailing? Thanks again for all the help...I'll back!

I had a go at pushing the contacts against the rear set of wheels, but no luck as yet. They seem to want to sit inside the wheels, near the 'spokes' rather than on the flat rim o the inside, where the ones on the other two sets sit. I'll keep trying, as I suspect (with all the help here) that this may be the issue. I'll move them away from the wheels a bit. Not really, I'm thinking of putting it back on. Thanks for all the advice.

@Butler Henderson @Flying Pig @Nick Holliday Thanks for all the help with this guys. I took some snaps with my phone, all but one is too blurry show you, but these are the main findings (excuse my lack of correct language): 1. The pick ups on the pair of wheels on the loco, closest to the tender lose contact if I move that pair of wheels side-to-side. 2. There are thin black wires touching the front pair of wheels. There is a similar pair near the middle set of wheels, but they are not touching the wheels, as far as I can see. 3. Should the plastic bracket-shaped bar at the front of the two front two wheels (pony wheels?) sit on the rail? See photo. I took the front coupler off, as I thought it might be part of the problem.

I've just been to have a close look, as I definitely haven't taken a saw to anything. I can't see that 'line' at all on the points. The only 'lines' in the rails are where the track pieces join and they are flush.

When I got my first uni teaching job in the mid 1990's I moved to a village (Wivenhoe) just outside Colchester. Literally right across the narrow road from my terraced house, was a branch line to London. Amazingly, I got used to the flashing lights and droning noise of the track cleaning loco at 3am on a Sunday morning. I never got used to the mass of parked cars along the street, making it impossible to park until 8pm at night, after a full day's work. They belonged to commuters who would not pay the car park fee at the station, 150 yards from my front door. Long story short...I went to see my MP (now Sir Bernard Jenkin), he contacted local Councillors and 6 months later we had residents only parking. True story. My pal the Parish Priest tells me the views from my conservatory (Portmagee Bay to the east and the Kerry cliffs to the west) is God telling me I have to strive every day to deserve them! BTW I took the photo of the Kerry cliffs (above) from my back garden, with my drone. I walked down to the quay (8 mins) for the other one. Now, that really is showing off.

I will, thank you.

I actually don't know what this means. I'm very new to all things model railway, and not familiar with the jargon yet. When I trained (pun intended) in psychoanalytic psychotherapy in the 1980's, I told my supervisor that my patient was...using projective identification to sublimate the unconcious angst created by the demise of her sibling. The supervisor replied...for God's sake just tell me what she is doing!

Once again thanks for coming back to me with your advice. That helps me to get a clear picture of what I'm doing. I'm not sure what locality I am modelling, as I'm originally from the NW of England, near Rainhill, but now live in the south of Ireland and haven't seen a trainline within 100 kilometres. It's a very beautiful area with mountains, islands and the atlantic ocean. So an urban goods yard based on my dad's factory, perhaps with a quayside (I live in a fishing village) will be an interesting compromise.

Thanks for all the help with the uncoupler and shunting advice everyone, I really appreciate it. If anyone can check my other question (with photos) about which way the locos should run, I would be grateful. Thanks again for all your help. I couldn't do this on my own - that's for sure!

It's a great thought, thank you. I'll see if I can find some.

Thank you again. I'll have a proper look tomorrow and come back to you. Much appreciated.

Thank you for that. I'll have a look at the pickups. I'm not entirely sure how they should be set (very new to model trains) but I might be able to work it out.

Some will have seen my long thread in another part of the forum about setting up my layout. I felt this was a separate issue, albeit tangentially related, so I've started this thread. I hope that's OK. My Bachmann Class 2MT Ivatt 2-6-0 46520 (bought 'pre-owned' and fitted with sound from Hattons a few months ago) stops moving as the front bogie comes over the Hornby DCC point clips on at least 2 Hornby R8073 points on my layout. This usually happens when the loco is moving at less than half speed on the controller (Hornby Select). If moving faster than half speed it seems to have enough momentum to avoid stalling, although I have noticed it appear to 'judder'. The track is not yet wired up, but has power throughout via a Hornby 4amp transformer. That said, I have had 3 locos running simultaneously, and at good speeds. the problem occurs if the Bachmann is running alone or with other locos. Any thoughts are welcome and I would be happy to offer further details if needed.

I can't say I 'like shunting', because I've never done it - but as my dad was a 'real life' shunter, I definitely want to try and, and watching trains go round and round, is not my main purpose for building the layout. Actually, the main purpose is...building the layout (to learn new skills and avoid the wild south of Ireland winter weather). I tried shunting the Ruston briefly this morning, and once I have some way of controlling the points, I can see that it will be a great way to use my brain and pass the time. I've heard of the 'Inglenook Shunting Puzzle' and would like to see if I can use that on my layout. Manual points control may be my preferred method. I saw some sold in the US by Caboose Industries and I've had some emails with him.

Thanks very much for this point. It's been on my mind, and I've looked at a few YT videos but got caught up in the basics of the layout (I still am, see above) so had to defer the question. The only uncoupler I have so far is the Hornby R620 (Railer and Uncoupler Track). I have no idea where it should go, so it's at the end of the lower LH siding at the moment. Advice on how many more I need and best positioning of them is welcome.

Thank you. No need to buy extra platform then but probably a station building. My Metcalfe platform kit from Hattons has been held up by Brexit red tape for 3 weeks now. Not sure if it will ever turn up. I've got an (unmade as yet) Metcalfe double track engine shed (as well as the single one already made) and not sure where it should go. Maybe the lower double siding below the small grey Y shape? I have good access to the rear side of the baseboard. Going to the left or right has given me a couple of bumps on the head, though, due to the sloping ceiling. Scalescenes boats noted for future reference! Thank again. This brings me to my next basic (Doh!) question. I'm not sure if I've got the locos moving in the correct direction. The Hornby Select book (and advice from here) states that trains face to the left. But, am I right that up line and down lines go in opposite directions? Please see photos...am I going the right way (taken from controller position, facing baseboard).

I've been taking all of the ideas and suggestions into consideration, and they all interest me to some extent. However, in order to move forward, I'll need to decide on a 'baseline' layout, and I think the original one planned by @Kris with additional ideas from @RJS1977 is one I can live with, having tried 3 locos on it so far. That said, there's still a lot to get my head around, in terms of actually running trains (how all the points work; where and how to move around the layout etc). I've also found a few derailment issues, which may have more to do with the locos and/or not having the track pinned down properly. In terms of design, I wondered what you thought of (drum roll...) MY OWN ideas, as in the tweaked plan below? 1. Would the road work if I shorted the track jutting into it? (Removed the R600 and replaced it with R610's). 2. Would a station entrance and 2nd platform fit where I suggest - and I've also suggested a footbridge joining the 2 platforms? Is this workable and realistic? 3. Is where I suggest for a main factory workable? 4. If I have a ledge made for the lower end of the baseboard (to stop locos going off the edge as suggested here - maybe it could be a docks (credit to @RJS1977) 5. Technical question: I don't see how the locos could turn around in the good shed area (green circle) if they approach 'head on'? Thanks again everyone and all thoughts welcome.

There's a story about an engineer who fixed a loco by hitting it with a hammer. When he sent his bill for £1,000, the owner said 'all you did was hit the boiler with a hammer'. Ok said the engineer, my fee for hitting the boiler with a hammer is £1....My fee for knowing exactly where to hit the boiler with the hammer is £999. My point is...not only do I not know where to to hit the boiler, I haven't even got a hammer. I really appreciate all the experience shown here. I just need to pick an engineer.

Thanks again. I'll print this out tomorrow, then look at it in relation to the actual layout and come back to you.