LU_fan

Well, that's true. That's true. And, come to think of it, using masking putty or something similat might reduce the amount of masking tape needed. Might also help reduce the amount of bleed there is. Oh well, I've still got some time to think about techniques and such as the kit in question isn't actually out yet. But as soon as it arrives, I'll get to work on it right away.

I've already got an NSE project that I've wanted to do for years lined up, but that doesn't sound very encouraging.

Well, I did do a bit of filing in all the openings to make it easier to install the windows without having to force them in. But not any real enlargements as such, just a little "slope" on all four sides. I'm still very pleased with the results however, and I'm glad I purchased two spare kits for future use. Now I've just got to get the Close Coupling Units installed, but that's another matter.

Why, sure.

First two coaches, along with two Lima Class 20's, have now been fitted. I gotta say, the 20's were surprisingly easy to fit, and the results very pleasing. The coaches required a bit more work and the glazing isn't 100% flush, but it's a huge improvement.

Checked out the line on the link, positioning it in line with the face of the buffers. Without having the bogie in place it looks doable, but when the bogie is in place it scrapes the base plate. So while it looks like I would have to remove some material, it would be too much to remove from the base plate alone. Removing some material from the bogies is one option, but the plastic used in the... doesn't look very thick. Though it does seem pretty sturdy. However, as I've turned the bogies the right way around it would also, potentially, mean removing the stoppers. I've already tried installing Symoba units on one of the coaches. There were no issues with the base plate, but I wasn't really happy with the results as the bogie kept hitting the stick where the pocket is mounted. Although, I did just realize that I only tried that solution with the regular Profi couplers and not the adjustable ones. That might have solved that problem. Hm... Oh well. I am pretty familiar with the Keen System replacement links as I've installed them on two Mk1's and three Mk2's already. This is however my first time using their CCU.

Did not know that. Thanks for the tip. I'll have to take a look, but I do suspect that the cut would be too far in. Could be wrong though.

As far as I can tell from the Keen instructions, I need to cut a hole and recess the base plate. That much I can make out. But that's where it stops. The Lima coaches don't have the bogie pivot under the floor, and placing the base plate against the bogie (when turned the right way around) doesn't exactly help as the pivot(?) on the Lima bogie at least seems thicker than the Hornby equivalent which means the "close coupling" result isn't really that close. I'm also not sure how much I should recess the base plate as the floor is thinner than that. Should the top be level with the floor, meaning the tabs on the leading edge are in the air? Or should those tabs be placed against the floor, meaning the top of the base plate protrudes above the floor?

Has anyone here got any experience using the Keen Systems close coupling mechanisms on Lima Mk2's? I'm kinda struggling, trying to understand exactly how the base plates should be installed. And yes, I have read the instructions on the website, but I just can't figure it out. And the fact that the images are of a Hornby coach doesn't help.

Well, I've got a scalpel with some replacement blades at home, so hopefully that should work. One thing I do need, however, is a steel ruler. But if that doesn't work, I'm sure I could borrow some scissors.

It sure does help. Thanks, Ian.

After seeing the pictures, yeah, keeping the original frosted windows seems like a good idea.

Well, the first tip that I received was to tape a steel ruler to the glazing and drag a sharp knife along it until it's thin enough to snap without completely breaking the rest. I don't know if that's a "better" method, but I've got a dremel and two coaches to try the techniques on. I was just thinking of painting those windows white on the inside, but if it works I might use your approach instead.

That sounds like a pretty good idea, actually. Might try to do that as well.

Well, I do have two scalpels at home, so that could be an option. Didn't even notice that the gangway doors had any windows in them, to be honest. Is that what the roof end clips are?

While I am aware that they make them for non-aircon Mk2's as well, I was confused by the catalogue numbers. As I said, my coaches both start with 305, but the kit that includes 305 numbers is listed as "Mk2E/F." But as muddy has explained, the windows I'm looking for are apparently included in the "301/302/303/308" set. I don't mind doing a bit of filing. Actually quite used to it, having built a small fleet of H0-scale coach kits. The door glazing? As far as I can recall, without having the coach in front of me, that was as sunk in as the rest of the windows. Might have to reassemble one of them to check. So that pack is for all non-aircon Mk2's, even though my ones start with 305? Filing out the smaller windows might be a bit more challenging than what I've done so far, but if it will improve the looks of the models, I'll give it a go. As I don't live in the UK, I'd prefer to contact them via e-mail, but as long as I have the catalogue number I can at least look them up. Thanks for the help!

I recently purchased two Lima non-aircon Mk2's from eBay and would like to add flush glazing to them. However, I have a few questions. 1. Is SE Finecast the only available option? Their website is down, and I'm not 100% sure on which of their items I should order. (The product numbers of both coaches start with 305, but according to the SEF website when I checked yesterday, their '305' windows were for Mk2E and F coaches.) 2. If there are other options available, which are the easiest to install? 3. Seeing as the original Lima glazing is actually part of what holds the coaches together, what type of technique do you guys use to hold the roof in place after removing the original glazing? Any and all help is welcome.

bigP, thank you very much for the gallery link. I'm sure it will come in handy. As will the list that ess1uk provided. Only got to figure out what coach is what type, and I think the P5 books can help with that. Right...?

I have actually seen that one, and a few others, but quite a few of the ones I've seen don't show the full trains. Sometimes they cut after the first one or two coaches. Thanks, Paul. Might look into that. I've heard of the ScotRail 47/7, and seen quite a few pics of it actually. Don't know if I've seen that video though.

Thank you very much for your help! Yeah, I was kinda prepared for a little eBay hunting. Is there a big difference in underbody details, or just some minor bits and pieces?

That does help indeed! I've already purchased three Platform 5 books, but wasn't quite sure how to tell what livery a coach wore from all the text. I would prefer to run out of the box models, and indeed that's what I've got so far. The biggest "conversion" I've done was to change the couplers and wheels on a Lima Mk2 TSO micro buffet. I do intend on changing the windows too. But no major rebuilds. Thank you very much for your input, Paul.

It may indeed. Following it, and will look through it later. Well, I have seen pictures of trains with a mix of Mk1's and Mk2's, so they were seen together occasionally. As for the routes, they're simply used for inspirational purposes and gathering information.

Still looks strange if you're used to seeing them painted.