peak experience

have a look online for 'grange over sands'. i think it's modelled in n gauge

thats good to know that the blade unclips. i'm actually surprised someone hasn't produced a 3D print replacement. i would've thought they'd sell rather well.

They look great. I don't know about the Brit Pacific ploughs. Be interested to see them.

Hi Paul, I haven't yet. I don't get online often so I've just checked back in on my thread and seen your reply.

Heh Pix, Thank you for your reply. You've done a great job. May I ask some Qs - What did you use for the filler? Did you have to prep the blade surface in any way to make it stick to the model? I'm guessing the filler follows a straight line from the top of the third yellow band (going from yellow bottom, black middle to yellow top) to the tip of the blade? Was it difficult to protect the rest of the model? Did you find needle files or sandpaper to be more useful for shaping or did you use something else entirely? What a missed opportunity these models were, and such a fundamental error. I have doubts that any other manufacturer will step up to the plate and make a correct one. It's a niche model and most modellers seem happy to run theirs with the glaring discrepancy.

the book, the photo is in, is 'The Liveries of the BR Standard Diesel Electric Shunters in Colour (1952-1996) by Steve Jordan - SDJ Publications.

there were certainly trials conducted in the 50s. there is a photo of D3070 at Brough in one such livery. the cab end has two bold white stripes, horizontally above and below the windows.

Hello everyone. I have both the 'N' gauge society's and Flangeway's flawed Independent snowploughs. I'm looking for any tips from people who've had success correcting the blade shape error. Any help gratefully received. Cheers

I really appreciate that.

many thanks all. it's appreciated

Quite possibly Paul. it was a micro layout and I thought it was in one of his books but I looked and so I guessed it must have been in a periodical.

Hi all, Can anyone point me in the right direction for this feature? I was sure I had it in a book but I've spent time this afternoon trying to find it and failed. I'm guessing it was therefore possibly in one of the monthly magazines perhaps? Any help would be appreciated.

paint colour, rivets, what is or is not behind the grill etc are trifles compared to the weird face of the model and the too steep rake of the front windows. and i don't know how to describe it, but the head code box angle, as it leaves the roof up to the head code box, is much too steep (70 degrees-ish) compared to the prototype (45 degrees-ish). it makes the head code box, from a side view, look odd.

i find turning the chisel 'upside down' helps to minimise making deep nicks and holes in the surrounding plastic. often times a handrail can be removed in one pass with minimal, if any, need for sanding or filling.

Cant help on your quest but Buxton has had a few iterations

Thank you Paul. i used to be but i'm not a member anymore. it's good to know that there's this option.

Thanks Mark. So it is an error then. i failed to find a photo showing these irregular spaced ribs and i surmised as much. I might try to find one and see if i can't remove them and start again with plastic strip.

Hi all, i have a question: I'm looking to add some coal hoppers to my fleet but looking at the Dapol offering the bodyside ribs are spaced differently from the regularly spaced ribs on this photo in the link. Is the Dapol model, with it's irregularly spaced ribs, based on an actually prototype? https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/br21thopperrivet/h2f5a7ac6#h334cc997

Were these wagons exclusively restricted to MOD traffic or could they be found working for other customers?

has anyone any experience of these paints? The range looks comprehensive. https://www.sprayster.com/coloured-spray/

Hi all. I wondered if anyone had attempted, successfully, this operation and could give me some tips and pointers? Regards, Peak

Thanks for all your replies. A hot wire cutter sounds interesting. I'll look into that.

Thanks Andy. I'm hoping not to have to cover it. I want to sculpt it and then just paint it. I feel, from working on a small piece with a Stanley blade, that that's going to give the best result. I may spray it was something like Plasticote just to give it a bit more strength and robustness against knocks.

Hi all, I'm using Celotex foam for my scenery. It's a dense foam used in loft insulation. I'm making rocks/cliff faces i.e, a gorge/landslip. I'm guessing it's a common material to use and I wondered what tools/techniques others had used to sculpt it. A Stanley knife blade is too short for some of the deep cuts I'd be wanting to make. I'm looking for a tool that'll leave flat, smooth surfaces so I'm guessing a serrated edge wouldn't be an option. I'd be grateful for any hints/tips etc anyone could provide.