Carnforth

On 20/02/2024 at 11:21, cctransuk said:

 

Having said which - I invariably use Mr. Muscle oven cleaner, in the orange aerosol can.

 

Foul smell - gets me in the back of the throat - but sprayed into a polythene food bag containing the model; sealed; and left for 24 hours, it has yet to fail.

 

CJI.

Seconded!

If a rattle can and you have Motor Factors near you that will mix paint, I used RAL 3005 after researching. (As in picking the brains of others )!

HTH

5 minutes ago, The Border Reiver said:

...and 46509

Both in the Swindon built lots, maybe all these were green then? 46503/27

On 27/02/2024 at 10:22, Wickham Green too said:

Did any Ivatt's carry green or was it only BR clones ?

At least one did, 46522

Here is a copy of my post from 2009 when the first batch were available. It may or may not help you. Prices and suppliers no longer valid but it gives you an idea.

On 25/10/2009 at 10:47, Carnforth said:

Mornin.

Here should be brief, edited resume of what I did to 2 of these. This applies to the first issue and I posted it on another forum which was active on this topic at the time. Hope it is if some use.

Steve

I've just re-motored two of these for a friend with Mashima Flat Can 16/28s. ?? 20.50 each inc p+p from CometModels.This gives you as much quality motor as you can get in very easily.

The flywheel bores need opening out to 2mm, and there's a small locating pip which needs removing from the chassis casting. The top plastic half of the motor mounting clasp can still be used by careful use of the 4 screws, run only partway in.

The other problem which occurs with this model can be tightness of the gear tower assembly.

I removed the brass worm and its attendant bearings,note the flats filed on the top edge to stop the bearings from spinning,( there was no end-float between these three parts, and the stub axles were a little too snug in the bearing bores).

The inner faces of the bearings were dressed back a little and the bores opened out likewise.

Both are now re-assembled and running in lovely. Dead slow crawl at 1v, whereas the motors supplied wouldn't even run with no load at less than 6v and sounded like an angry wasp.

Shouldn't be necessary, of course and I' m glad I didn't wait all that time for them to appear with these faults. Poor assembly coupled with an awful motor! That said, it's a nice looking model but runs like a dog, unless you've been VERY lucky.

Steve

10 hours ago, Schooner said:

Why the change? The Sisters Neilson ran through just fine (interesting, given how different they are on every level) but the EFE Well Tank regularly derailed, as did Rapido's GWR wagons. Then an almost-accident happened to a sort-of-accident...

Of course it did!😀

Yes, I have one if you still need it.

I think Railtec do  sheets of rivets, in white rather than black..

Here ya go. Amazon, about £6. Various sizes available but this is 1/8". Discs collect in the sprung retaining cup.

2 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

That's a neat solution, but where would one obtain an 1/8" punch from, please?

 

I pinched the wifes, she says Amazon. Examples here.

45 minutes ago, Nick Lawson said:

I've never tried using them, but Markits sell axle nut covers separately. Available from Wizard, possibly others.

I dress the axles and nuts back slightly prior to assembly, then use an 1/8" punch on plastic film and sit the disc in the resulting slight rebate, fixed with black acrylic paint. Last job at final assembly.

Any reason why you cannot add wire pick-ups from the live side wheels soldered direct to the frames? Relying on bearings to flow current is fine once running but I wouldn't rely on that alone. HTH

10 minutes ago, Wickham Green too said:

Now, the typo 'shint' could be interpreted in a couple of different ways and I thing the moderators would prefer 'shiny' - which it certainly was : - 

30/8/69 - fortunately this photo's also in monocrud. 😎

Here's one that I built for one of the service crew of 46441about 35 yrs ago, I did him one in black too. He who pays the piper !!

3 hours ago, G-BOAF said:

O/T, but interested in that tarpaulin covered loco. What was so special about it, that a stored loco would be lavished such care in 1967?

Betty Beet's Ivatt CL2 46441. Presently resides at L&HR.

18 hours ago, The Pilotman said:

Indeed. Whilst the common dab (Limanda limanda) and European plaice (Pleuronectes platessa) are both flatfish, they aren’t even in the same genus. 

They both have different minimum landing sizes, not sure what they are now but for Dabs ( we called them Garves) it is quite small.

1 minute ago, Crosland said:

Filing destroys any coating and just leads to the bits corroding away. You end up re-filing until there's nothing left.

Agreed, once you've removed the iron coating on Antex bits, they're on a short lifespan.

This will help.

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brfish

Not seen it mentioned yet but I use Servisol switch cleaning lubricant in an aerosol, sprayed onto a cotton bud for wheels or a piece of card for railheads. First used it to improve continuity in the roller bearings in my Bacrus rolling road. Stated to improve conductivity. Works a treat, maybe similar to the WD products.

Bit late, this but Railmatch do Rail red in Acrylic, 18ml Plastic pot.

20 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

Don't suppose it was my solitary black Grampus?

 

Very nice and thanks, may have been but it was a side on pic as I recall. I remarked at the time how well observed and modelled it was.

11 hours ago, SouthernBlue80s said:

 

Hi Steve.

Ouside chance, I posted this a long time ago. It probably is not what you are looking for, as it is two of them. Cheers Steve 

 

 

 

Very nice,

not these but thanks. It was a solitary wagon in black.

Evenin' all

Some time ago there was a pic of a weathered Grampus wagon standing alone, so impressed that I made coment on it. Try as I may, I cannot find it now. It may have been here or in Weathering, painting forum , or it may be lost after the issues. Can anyone point me in the right direction, please?

TIA,  Cheers

Steve

I've had to do this with some smaller lightweight motors where you run out of range. Set CV393 to 64, this will bring chuff rates into a workable range within CV267

Steve

4 hours ago, Wheatley said:

Comet should do the valve gear fret separately, they certainly do (or did) for other chassis in the range.   

Yes they do, LM46 but you'll still need the pony, cylinders etc. Most of their chassis kit (LCP) consist of an amalgam of otherwise seperate kits from their range.

Comet do a chassis kit for 76xxx. I built one a long time ago to use under the Airfix kit. Also do a tender chassis to suit. Used a Buhler motor with Ultrascale g/box, which they were marketing at the time as a complete unit. Drives middle axle with motor in firebox. I still have it.