Carnforth

On 04/12/2020 at 08:11, Andrew P said:

25285 Crosses Yard Lane to enter Seven Mills Sidings on its way to Dore End.

3 nice old Fords there!

Pretty sure Mark describes these or something very similar as "de-luxe" crankpins.

On 13/07/2019 at 11:19, Poor Old Bruce said:

 

It's a BR 12 Ton van with a plywood body. I would have to consult the Diagram Book to find the diagram number.

Diag 1/213 ?

Hi RhbSimon

I messaged you in April re. Ivatt CL4 with a bit of info. Did you see it?

cheers

Here they are anyway!

Here a scan of the cover of my copy from 2006. Ignore the graffiti. Can scan the contents if anyone is interested. I used to ask Adrian regularly if he'd make his Pipe wagon BR D1/461 kit available again. Would be great if the range were to be resurrected. Still have racks of his wagon detailing packs to use.

cheers

Steve

Afternoon All

I don't often post on here but thought I'd share this.

Last year I was asked to replicate this for a client. Gone through the usual processes, dismantle, matt varnish, dry brushing, powders, screen wiper sweeps etc with the addition of Brassmasters brake etch, in part at least as it's designed around the Lima model. This is Bachmann. Custom printed headcodes as requested by the owner.

Another vote for Mr Muscle oven cleaner

Built plenty of these. I always make sure that 1st stage is directly under the worm by use of washers but to enable this I fit the top left hand (viewed from top) bearing from the outside in then dress back from the inside. This allows precise placement of 1st stage. Then fit the other bearings as per instructions. Should say that I do this prior to folding for ease of access. HTH

Whenever I used Laminated rods where the leading crankpin runs behind the crosshead my trick is to snip  the front boss off the overlay and retain to the the pin with a 14BA brass washer. This makes that area no thicker than the remainder of the rod. That and file as much as I dare from the rear of the crosshead, Much easier than mucking about with cylinders and risking going out of gauge. HTH

Steve

Hi All, I must say that as a pro builder I find Mark to be an excellent, helpful supplier that I have dealt with for decades. I do know that he's very busy, sends his products globally and has recently had some extensive building/plant/machinery work done. Most of my orders with him have been fairly substantial, come complete and during my sometimes quirky conversations with him we have established a common ground and a sense of humour never goes amiss. I always use the 'phone and whilst Mark is sometimes difficult to contact in this way it has never failed me. HTH

Steve

I just use diluted phosphoric acid without any other additives. A litre of 80% from the 'net, dilute to 10% for brass, nickel silver or white metal. enough to last a lifetime. works fine. HTH

Steve

If you can't find any I have a near complete set of Cambrian CT2 rub-on transfers as in pic. Yours for the price of a couple of stamps if you wish!

On 30/12/2019 at 15:08, cctransuk said:

 

Sounds to me like the plastic of the body has been attacked by the paint stripper - if so, the damage is terminal, I'm afraid.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

This is why I use Mr Muscle. Won't affect plastics.  In a previous thread on this topic, someone used it to strip a point without any damage to any part.

If you can get some, try Mr Muscle foaming oven cleaner. Place item in plastic bag to stop it drying and leave to soak.

1 hour ago, hayfield said:

Thanks I missed them. I was looking for a name on the outer parts of the fret. However I am still no wiser

Me neither but some one surely will. Could the M be for McGowan?

Am I seeing JM on two of the frets?

Works for me, had a look this morning.

Ah that is a wonderful sight, the marvellous X04.

You can run without the suppressor (though technically illegal!) I'm sure you can pick them up on ebay, or PM me and I'll have a search. I used to be a service agent, still got a few bits around but need to look them out. 

That commutator looked filthy, I hope you cleaned it out as well as polished the surface. The slots can get clogged up with carbon, and eventually will actually arc. This can lead to one of the few terminal failures of the motor (though often can be overcome). I used to use an old Ex-Acto knife blade, held gently against the commutator whilst the motor was running, to polish it. With care, this acts like a tool in a lathe and removes the blackness leaving a smooth finish. As for oil, a smidgeon in the pads, no more. If you need it re-magnetising, PM me as I still have the tool. If you find one winding open circuit, a fairly common fault, that too can be fixed.

 

Stewart

Morning Stewart I've sent you a P.M.

cheers

Steve

Sleeping car M395 (should that not be M395M) last reported at Carnforth in much poorer condition than that, what a waste.

 

Jim

A bit like the coaling tower. Agreed what a waste. Anyone else think that there should be some kind of  "duty of care"?

Try Mr Muscle oven cleaner, spray onto model and place overnight in a plastic sandwich bag to keep it from drying.

I have seen - but can't locate where - a sequence of photos showing trains banked on the Lickey by one, two, three, and four 3F 0-6-0Ts.

I've seen that sequence on one of my B+R videos too, not sure which one though. Edit below.

Sorry, made a mistake, it's Vol 6 from the Steam World Archive series, highlights a 9F hauled oil train on the Lickey banked by 4 Pannier tanks.