GWR_NZ

Hi, I have the double tunnel portal from the Hornby Skaledale range in red brick. While the brick colour is good the factory weathering less so. Has anyone repainted Skaledale tunnel portals or brick wall and it so which products did you use.The main concern is losing the detail in a coat of paint. Thanks.

Then obviously don't buy a new cheese-grater for the missus, buy it for yourself .

Try a nail polish shaker. Here's something from my part of the world https://www.creativenails.co.nz/products/shaker

Thanks for the input from the both of you - you have given me something to think about.

Hi, Couple of quick questions about adding a second throttle to a NCE Power Cab. As I understand I need a UTP panel , a second throttle (Cab06), RJ 12 cable between the two. I also understand that there is the option to add a power source at the UTP panel ( I understand that this is primarily if the UTP panel is greater than 30 feet from the PCP panel). Is there any advantage to adding external power if the distance is not greater than 30 feet (i.e. around 20 feet). Secondly between the the two different versions of the Cab06 - I get the impression that the potentiometer version is better than the digital encoder version. Does anyone have any practical experience with both throttles who can share their views. Thanks, Edmund

Hi, I use a regulated 12v DC power supply @ 1A. As I'm in NZ it is not useful to provide a local supplier but I did look at using a wall wart from some long lost / binned bit of electronics but found the voltage regulation was appalling (was nominally 9v but on my meter was reading 13 odd volts). I scrapped that idea and bought a proper regulated power supply. Rock solid 12v. Thanks, Edmund

Hi, I have the Bachmann Highley yard crane which I want to replace the hook (which to say the least is almost invisible considering the chain that is used). I have replacement chain but I am looking for a replacement hook. I've found the following https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=hook&PN=caldercraft_83510%2ehtml#SID=173 https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/serving-machine.php#!/4mm-Photoetched-Brass-hooks-for-rigging-your-ship-model-105-per-pack/p/40055285/category=11571019 Does anyone have any other suggestions for a replacement hook. Thanks,

Hi, Bit more experimentation today. Disabled all the frog juicers. No change - so rules them out. As suggested above I actually read the manual and I am now suitably embarrassed as changing the value of CV55 to one, then adjusting CV65 to 128 has cured the problem without the frog juicers enabled - will enable and experiment some more. From many years ago, in my computer geek days - RTFM. Thanks for your advice. Much appreciated.

In my testing when I removed the PSX two frog juicers were still active. When I get time I'll remove all frog juicers by removing power and retest but it may not be done until next weekend. Thanks for the suggestions.

Hi BromsMods, As far as I am aware it is using K or later ( I'll double check in the next day or so - being in NZ it's now time to go to bed). I've programmed CV49 (I think / hope). Only one loco on the track.

Hi, Hoping someone can help. I have a set-up with a NCE Power Cab and a PSX circuit breaker. When I power up - the system starts up with no issues. I can leave the system powered up for as long as I like. I can run a loco but intermittently the PSX will trip - an example of this stopping the loco and changing direction. As far as I can tell I've set the PSX up correctly by changing the CV. I've attached a RRAmpMeter to check the voltage and amperage - all good with a voltage reading of @ 13.8 Volts and 0.45 Amps when running a loco (around 0.34 Amps when idle). From this I can conclude that I am not going over amperage. If I bypass the PSX - all works OK - no issues. When the PSX trips the Power Cab does NOT reboot or restart. I've set-up the push button to reset the PSX which works fine. I can reset the PSX, but the PSX will trip intermittently soon afterwards. One curious thing I did notice that if I try to program a loco on the main, the Power cab reports a short (yet I can program a loco fine by bypassing the PSX). This is a similar fault - but the there is no resolution or the OP didn't report back.... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/50899-interesting-problem-with-a-psx-1-circuit-breaker/ This has been tried with two different loco's (one Hornby and one Bachmann) so I can be reasonably confident that it is not the loco. There are a couple of Frog Juicers in the mix a well. Any help or ideas much appreciated.

Hi Steve, What colour paint did you use for the track colour? Thanks, Edmund

Do you have any pictures or part numbers of said bezels and switches. There may be data sheets with the details.

Excellent idea - they look good. Can you please advise what printer you used. Standard ink-jet or something a bit more commercial. Also what paper - anything special?

I think Pip looks very good with Tom, just adds a little something to the scene.

Shouldn't that be 4 paw compensation....

At first glance it thought this was a real location , not a model - superb craftsmanship.

Hi, I have been attempting to contact David Geen via the email address sales@davidgeen.co.uk but the email has bounced back as undeliverable. Can some one confirm that this address is correct. Any help is much appreciated. Thanxs Edmund

For covering the wire armiture I am experimenting with Reeves modeling paste. Looks effective but time consuming painting it on. Have tried DAS - was not impressed, even more time consuming. The modeling paste can be brushed on in layers, buidling up the bulk of the trunk and branches.