Lodekka

Now got the CL40 box from a friend... Thanks Ray.

CL45 fits perfectly and is quite snug.

Will probably trim just a little of the foam at the ends to protect fine details and make removal/replacement that bit easier.

Otherwise much much better than original packaging which is now going in the loft.

I sense a small market for original Heljan packaging in these sort of cases...

Perhaps try to speak with them at Telford

Now looking forward to the 05's and the DMU's...

Hi Rich

I have witnessed first hand how white van drivers treat parcels.  They are hard pressed to deliver their assigned parcels and do not have time to treat them with TLC.  IMHO There is no way that the packaging used by Heljan for the class 45 would survive if subject to a standard 1 metre drop test.  The lack of foam at the ends enables the loco to bounce on its two 5mm mounting screws tearing them through the flimsy MDF base.

Norman.

I agree with all of this (although I was lucky as I collected my loco from the Tower stand at Doncaster and it therefore avoided the rough handling), this aside, my main gripe is when the loco is used at shows or periodically taken around to other places I cannot see many will bolt it back in...

The foam was good in the old boxes and maybe just needed a small trim to ease access, but in the new style packaging with nothing at each end of the box, damage is almost inevitable unless you add more foam like it did... For a £500+ loco this should have been better.

As was also said earlier, it can't have had any packaging testing carried out or they would have seen it...

Commercial (bulk) delivery is generally a better standard than white van man or a postal round and if they based their experience on a palleted shipment then I can see why they might have thought it was ok.

As I said I'm my original post, superb loco - really good... Very poor packaging.. In fact a friend has very kindly offered me one of his original CL40 boxes to use instead... Should fit fairly well...

Regards

Lodekka

Hi Giles,

My Guard-Irons arrived today, during my lunch break, superb service and the hints and tips, Links on the compliments slip etc? A man after my own heart! Very thoughtful, thank you.

I shall compile a few more bits for my 08, ie driver, decoder etc and then set to work.

In the meantime more garden rly track fettling to do.

Kindest regards,

CME

 

If you are looking for a driver, superbly painted.. Then...

 

 

Try Cice arts, they are superb, and the cheapest by far...

Just type in figure painting 7mm and you should find them...

 

This is what you want...

http://artcice.wixsite.com/cice

I'm sure you'll like what you see... Or call /email them as their range changes daily...

Just got my green cl45 and most impressed with it... Trial runs on DC prior to conversion to switchable DCC proved that it was indeed very good.

However, what is not so good is the revised packaging method, no protection for the loco ends and great risk of damage if rough handling occurs... First thing I added was some end foam to cushion the loco once released from the captive bolts in the base for protection when traveling to shows etc.

I cannot imagine many people continually bolting it in each time...

The foam packaging and thin sheet was a good packaging method in the old boxes which offered fair protection to expensive locos. Heljan why have you done this? It's very poor and, as another correspondent on this forum attests, certainly unlikely to survive any standard postal packaging tests... Certainly risky for anyone who buys a loco and has it posted...

I hope it gets changed back Asap.

Oh, I dunno...

They do drivers and crew figures, afaik they may not have them on the webpage right now...

If you mail or call them I'm sure they'll find you some...

I've just got mine for my CL15 and 08... Expecting to get some more for my forthcoming Peak.

Ah thanks Paul.  Must order some figures from ModelU.  Any other recommendations?

 

John

Try Cice arts they are superb, and the cheapest b far...

Just type in figure painting 7mm and you should find them...

This is what you want...

http://artcice.wixsite.com/cice

I'm sure you'll like what you see...

Hello all.

 

Just some minor touching up since SW Herts show.

 

Off the Isle of Wight this weekend for the Sandown Railway Enthusiasts Club show.

 

Rgds Andrew

Very good record of progress over the layout development...

If only I had the time and space...no hum

Wots all this Docklands stuff then?

Hi Richard Pike

I've sent you a PM

Regards

Norman

I have his 08 implementation and it is superb..

Many thanks...

I enquired in December and have a ticket number and heard nothing so I phoned in March. He could not give a time scale and have still heard nothing.

Railtec were very quick when we used them... ;-)

I think you have just caught them at a busy time..

John

 

Thanks for that. I usually use 'Heroes of the Footplate' figures which I get from Invertrain but 45009's come from JPL Models' scrap box! They are just up the road from me and I popped in to see what they had got. Another source would be Omen Miniatures and I'm sure there are more out there.

 

Jeff

Just type in figure painting 7mm and you should find them...

This is what you want...

http://artcice.wixsite.com/cice

I'm sure you'll like what you see...

I am sure the Ruston 48DS will be a popular little loco. Before anyone mentions price, there is an existing 'all complete' kit available [complete with design errors] for £195 or RTR for £395. The ingenuity of design, inclusion of DCC and UK manufacture all add to the value. Look forward to it. 

 

Dava

I'll second that....

I have two of the original Impetus kits and one of the Electrifying Trains versions but it won't stop me having one...

The CL15 is a winner, has been out on two show layouts at exhibitions over the last two weekends and caused much comment and praise... Was demonstrated a number of times to admirers, ran very smoothly and notably quiet.

A really superb model. Well done LLC... Can't wait for the 48DS....

Just get that Co-Bo out.....

When you do, could you show/demonstrate "the knack" of removing the top bonnet please?  

 

Instructions suggest you squeeze it in the area of the lugs but it all seems pretty ridged to me and I didn't want to force it!

 

Thanks

Slow and gently, it will come off.

Good luck

Lodekka

When I started to install DCC in mine, a wire broke.  It was so short that I had to remove the board and, having done that, broke another wire.  I ended up rewiring the whole thing.  With fine wires it's a good idea to provide some sort of strain relief at the join.  I put a dab of contact cement.

 

John

If rewiring, I found that tucking the wire under the plastic motor leg helped protect it and reduce snagging...

My ladders were ok when I first got the loco but it started with one rung which fell out (why this happened i don't know) soon followed by the others. I'm not the only person to have rungs fall out as someone else on this forum had a similar experience. So hence caution when handling.

Yes, the black and green body shells are different in terms of the layout of the running plate boxes as per the prototype, in terms of the assembly process... It is possible that the different batches/colours were assembled on different lines but it's almost impossible to tell unless you visited the factory during the assembly and that 'could' account for the amount of adhesive used. But it's more likely to be the luck of the draw on which actual individual model has sturdy or fragile ladders/ handrails/ buffers / lamp irons etc. etc.

Unfortunately my two (a black and a green 'union) are getting a lot of handling as I show them round and am making ongoing modifications.. So the attrition rate on mine is probably higher that average...

However, I still think for the price it is a good model..

Of slightly more concern is the back to back on each axle is different when checked against the GOG template, one of the loco's won't

Stay on my rolling road because of this...

So at some point the axles are going to have to come out....

I think I'll be asking Isambard very nicely for his help on that one...

ATVB

Lodekka

Now have my green one as well.

Up for much the same treatment as my earlier black one...

Wire wrapped vac pipes

Repositioned internal suppression components to allow decoder to lay flat

Rewired lighting to allow shunting lights on DC operation

Stored charge for 'stay alive' DC lighting at constant brightness.

Switchable DC or DCC ( to allow total isolation of decoder)

Zimo, Paul Chetter sound.

Plus more...

Add a crew...

Smoke unit..

Etc.etc.

Will this one operate all the lights?

 

ESU 54621 locomotive driver Fx V4. 0 Function decoder MM/DCC/SX 21MTC interface

It has 6 function outputs, should you want to wire the lower middle light.

Sorry but as I said previously...

There is no middle light...front or back.

Dapol have not fitted it - presumably as many of the later locos either had them removed, not fitted, or out of use.

If you want to add another LED then (that's what I am doing) then it requires some delicate surgery to the pcb...

Regards

Lodekka

I'm lazing today in my recliner enjoying my last day off work and browsing RMweb, and much to my surprise the doorbell rings - it's Juan, our local DHL courier with a box from Hattons. (I wasn't expecting it until tomorrow, DHL was supposedly shut down today.) Now, off to unbox my unnumbered plain green gronk and test it! The blue one should be here later in the week, it's stuck in customs.

I'm a DCC user, so the next step is to decide what sound decoder and speaker to order.

(Edit) It had a slight hitch to start, but I found one crank was slightly out of quarter - light finger pressure resolved the problem and it now runs quietly and smoothly at all speeds. I'm still not quite sure what I'm going to do with it - from what I can tell no 08s were assigned to Norwich in the early 1960s, and I'm not sure if I can justify having a loco shedded at March with where my fictitious chunk of railway is located (just east of Dereham off of the route to King's Lynn.) So, selecting a number will need to await some research; luckily, I'm interested in many areas so I'm sure I can find a fit.

Can only recommend the Digitrains Zimo MX644D and the Paul Chetter sound... Just the best of the bunch...

Trust me you won't find anything currently on the market that beats it..

Enjoy your 08

Regards

Lodekka

Who reads instructions,? It takes all the fun away .I thought the square holes in the buffer beams were for fittings .I hasten to point out my only interest is making sure I can resell it  for a good price after I have sculpted a crew .

The holes in the buffer beams were for lifting eyes and shackles when in depots and works.

There is an excellent book 'The Diesel Shunter' which shows lots of 08's and in very good detail for anyone wishing to make changes

to their chosen model.

Also the series of LMS volumes which covers their predecessors is a valuable thing to have as a reference, and it goes into HUGE detail of the loco, most of which pertains to 08's as well....

Lodekka

Hows this for service. 1600 22/12/16 Tower rang to say its on its way. 15.30 23/12/16 Arrived on time.  1600 23/12/16 ordered chip from digitrains  0830 24/12/16 chip arrived 1st recorded.

Thanks to all those involved. Now to turn 3219 into 3130 of March 31B but meanwhile it runs sweet as a nut

Excellent service... Our retailers are providing quality service.....

Look forward to seeing it on Hobbs Warren sans sound!

Lodekka (aka Willowbrook Marsh)

I'm sure many will have noted the fragility of some of the more delicate items as fitted to the 08's.

One respondent earlier commented about the fragility of the nose ladders (where fitted).

On mine, the bar across the front of the loco where the two under slung cylinders are has come adrift as have

two front most step handrails...

On a largely plastic model it does come down to the strength of the adhesives and the contact area...

In this case not very much area and very sparing on the adhesive...

Fortunately the cross bar car be drilled and pinned more securely.

I'm replacing the handrail knobs with brass...

Hopefull nothing else will drop off!

I should temper these comments with the admission that I have taken it completely apart more than once and it has been handled numerous times so it is not surprising there is this attrition of parts...

Just a quiet moment before the kids turn up today......

Lodekka

Shunting lights one red and one white each end were normal for yard shunting

Norman

Couple of tricks you can do to get different lighting...

If you are concerned about warranty then obviously you need to consider before doing this...

In DC mode only the single top White lights will come on in each direction as standard.

If anyone cares to follow my earlier post on disassembly of the body and cab, then it is fairly simple (if you are adept with a soldering iron) to simply swap the wires round on the little inverted T shaped LED boards.

There are three wires (note that is two 3 pin connectors) going to each end from the main board, the other connector is the two pin cab light. On the two T boards there is a wire to + and then one each to FT & FB or RT & RB, if you simply unsolder and swap over the wires to FT & FB or RT etc....then you can have the shunting lights instead of the top marker lights as default on DC...

I would have thought this might have been a better option as standard, Dapol....?

One simpler tweak is to link pins 14&15 on the supplied DC plug on card and this will enable the Red & White shunting lights at one end. Might not be prototypical but does get you more lights in normal operation.

As previously mentioned, if you are on DCC then you can control all of the lights via function settings.

Someone mentioned that they had no red marker light on theirs, this is probably a fault and is most likely a duff LED or maybe series resistor or wire... Suggest best to return under warranty...

One very important note is that the centre lower lamp at both ends is unpowered (no LED is fitted) so it won't work at all in either

DC or DCC modes.

Unless you do a bit of additional surgery (as I am doing)...

Love the loco though and just 'had' to treat myself to a second one (in plain Green this time)

Seasonal greetings to all

Lodekka

Yours is not the only driver to bust a lower door hinge :-( I was trying out a white metal figure for size when he slipped and ended up inside the cab on the floor, getting him out also broke the hinge and brought out the brake standard for good measure.........

Question, how do I get into the cab to put the brake standard back without bashing the door again, any ideas ? The door I guess if it cannot be fixed I will just have to glue slightly ajar. Ho hum, upward and onward eh ?

Simples, see my earlier post on stripping the loco down...

Once the superstructure is separated from the chassis then the cab unscrews and can be seaparated.

Then VERY VERY carefully separate the cab floor by running a knife round the edge, note the clips on the inside of the rear cab end and take care with the fine wiring...

Whilst you are in there you can add all sorts of extra details, conduits, pipes etc etc. more gauges and the hot plate and brake standard and crew...

Good luck!

Lodekka

But you haven't explained what the (about) 8 components are and what the circuit diagram is, so it's not workable for anyone with out these. I assume you would be able to provide this using your electronics knowledge to help those that are not as experienced as you appear to be?

Ah yes, but weren't you concerned about invalidating your warranty with a bit of cut plastic on the motor frame?

If you see the response to F-UnitMad it did describe (albeit in outline) what the components were...

Fear not, I'll do another post with all to be revealed...

Lodekka

My thoughts exactly....... 

Well I did say 'relatively' simple - it does require an element of electronics knowledge.

Appears to have lost a few people - so perhaps my explanation of what to do was a bit too complex.

Pauls explanation of the Fowler Diesel on DCC /DC analogue was very good and indeed the performance was most impressive.

But the bugbear I have is that on DC(both the Fowler and 08)  the running/shunting lights brightness is governed by the running rail voltage to some degree

(apart from the excellent Zimo MC644D decoder) and what I wanted was constant brightness lights.

Which happen to stay on when the loco is stopped... for up to 10 minutes (not sure why Paul thought someone else said this!) Twas I

Hence the stored charge circuit which provides that.

So I have a switchable solution as I wanted the decoder completely isolated when on DC.

Works for me, sorry others felt it was too difficult - only about 8 components!

Perhaps i'll be better keeping my other innovations / modifications to myself.

Lodekka

@ Mr Lodekka; can you please give a bit more info (such as a clicky-link ) about the stored charge lighting unit?

I remain resolutely 12vDC for my British O Scale (DCC for my US-outline stuff) but would like to tinker with the lights on this model & this sounds like a Good Idea.

Thanks again!!

Hi F-UnitMad,

The Stored Charge lighting is relatively simple... I requires a rectifier bridge (to allow for polarity changes), a regulator circuit to control the voltage on the storage device to a fixed level and some decoupling components to prevent noise and oscillation.

You also need to take care of inrush currents so a couple of components for that too.

The size of the storage device will also govern current ratings and charge/discharge times.

Recent ones I have done for rolling stock have had around 8-10 second durations (mainly for DCC to cover poor pickup in On30), so just like the 'stay alives'.

But for these applications I am planning on some seriously large storage values and on a DC layout will give you a number of minutes 'on' time.

One I did lasted around 10 minutes.

Actually quite impressive as it gives the impression that the layout is DCC...

The only complication is if you have a switchable loco as it gets more complex then...

But that may not affect you.

Regards

Lodekka