Bluemonkey presents....

Even though the weather has been pretty bad modelling time has been some what lacking but I have managed to get a little in. As I have a different set of wheels that are all insulated I have had to completely re-arrange the chassis and the pick ups. However I have managed to change the position of the gear box. It now drives off the centre axle rather than the front. I spent most of my time getting the coupling rods to move smoothly as I have a sticky part at 3 o'clock. I have two pairs of rods one from the old original kit all flat no detail and the other set from the new chassis kit that are fluted. I ensured both run freely whilst thinking about which set to use. My reference pictures indicate that Hercules had completely flat coupling rods whilst the older pair Cyclops and Steropes had fluted but before I solder these I just wanted to make sure. My personal preference is the fluted but prototype for this project must dictate as it has throughout, within reason. Any views welcome. I am hoping to attack this tonight though, sorry for the short time scale. Thank you in advance.

Thank you Castle, appreciate your comments. I fell into the trap of starting to add that little extra one and was not disciplined enough to say 'No'. I must commend you on your strength. My plan was to create Chippenham station (Wiltshire) in the 1920's and run only the appropriate stock but temptation got me. So a new plan is to recreate the station in the 20's but to run anything Great Western that I like although I do number the kits I make to actual documented rolling and motive power stock, if at all possible. Name and number plates attached with loco crew added, suddenly the locomotive seems to come alive! Crane has been fully chained, that was a real fiddle but can be manually deployed if ever required; Just need to put all the jigsaw pieces together and add the wheels, and motion set to the chassis. Fingers crossed will be completed before my planned visit next week to Didcot.

Cleaning up the name and numbers plates it occurred to me, this is where it all began. A lovely set of plates produced to order from Narrow Planet. Screw coupling sourced are from Smiths range and are the 4 pair dummy set to be assembled. These are surprisingly easy to put together with a little care of the bending, I used the nib of a automatic pencil to give me the 180o ​bend. Once completed I did have to reapply more blackening fluid as the brass had rubbed through. I have picture one as a completed example with individual items to make up a complete coupling. I am sure these are not new news on this forum but thought it may be of some use to others to see exactly what you get in the kit and how easy there to make. A good saving on those purchased as pre-assembled. These attached to the locomotive, the name/number plates and the crew I had to, again, seal with a light coating of spray varnish. Another 'school boy error' don't varnish until totally satisfied you have completed, unless you end up with numerous coats. I masked the main loco boiler/body off to ensure only coating the areas required rather than a full body spray again. The crane has both sections fully chained. I have chosen to add a very tiny drop of superglue to hold the chains on each pulley to stop it from slipping off but not enough to stop it from being a functional model if required. Both winders (I don't know the technical terms) are functional with a decent amount of chain. Waiting now for the enamel varnish to harden then connect all the pieces together, oh and of course I need to complete the chassis with driving wheels and coupling rods before attaching to the loco for completion.

This is where my inexperience and general lack of knowledge is highlighted. Whilst blackening the buffers and preparing to attach them I realised I had forgotten/overlooked the fact that the buffer beam has the running number on it there are vacum pipes to locate! Muppet is not the word/s I used but lets stick with that for the time being. Transfers (waterslide) added to the buffer beam. Not sure why they appear wobbly in the picture does not seem that way to the naked eye.. So a couple of vac pipes were sourced, as well as a pair of screw couplings. Roughly painted and attached. I attached the sprung buffers hlding the nut with a little superglue. These have been chemically blackened and have a dull finish that is not completely consistent all over giving a slight 'used' effect. I have come to accept and appreciate the 'happy accidents' during this build. Whilst checking the model over (again!) for details that I have failed to pick before I could not get over the brackets attaching the vac pipes. These stood out to me and are missing from the castings so using a thinly cut piece of kitchen foil folded around the pipe and secured with a small amount of glue. Once painted these should look OK, I think I will leave out the rivets securing the brackets. Additional details of the steam pipe and braces how also be added to the underside of the rear buffer beam. The brackets are small pieces of off cut plasticard and the pipe, again, an offcut or handrail wire. Once all the glue has set. Everything will get another coat of the appropriate colour with an ink wash and fixed with spray varnish. From attempting this project I have discovered many new skills and approaches to completing a task which I have noted along the way but two things become more apparent during each modelling session. These are; my lack of knowledge regarding in general from specific part/area terminology to general appearance and livery. RMweb is an obvious place to look for related queries and detailed information as the members here are fantastic and have a wealth of world-wide knowledge and experience. The second is my personal lack of colour pictorial referencing from general running livery to how a cab interior actual looks. This I can rectify quickly so I have booked a day off work to visit Didcot. This will be a perfect start to document in colour many of the areas I have faced trying to 'guestimate' as either they are not in colour reference books or are just not pictured as would not appeal to the general viewer. Hopefully I will have enough room on my SD card, long gone are the days of colour film and having to take a small bag full of new films- thankfully.

Everything this weekend, including the driver and fireman have received a coat of matt enamel varnish from Humbrol. Really pleased with the result as previously used varnish either went very gloss or left water marks. This end result is completely clear although a slightly satin finish seems to have been left on the loco but this is a just the ticket in my book. I will give it a few days to completely harden off and then put everything together. I have a few more details to add as well, such as the 'glass' for the windows, buffers, couplings and chains and name/number plates.Hopefully the next posting from me will be the completed locomotive. I have removed the copper effect from the chimney funnel and I am staying with complete black. I can not find anywhere any reference to the liveries. The reference pictures I am using are all black and white but the heavy colouring suggests black rather than green although Cyclops does appear to be lined green. The colour also appear to be consistent all over the loco, i.e. chimney funnel and safety valve. Something that I have learnt whilst doing this is the sick to what you have originally researched and not to keep changing (within sensible reason) as all locos had alterations during their life, so to focus on one specific area of the locos life and keep to it.

Hello Horsetan, really appreciate your help. I have checked the wheel measurements against the kit I have used and unfortunately the wheels required for the chassis are 18mm. The Gibson ones will be slightly too small to use on the chassis. Certainly one to keep in mind for other projects though, thank you.

OK most of the basic livery painting has been completed (I think). The chimney top I have tried to give a copper but steamed effect as I am not sure to what extent the appearance would have been once in service. I need to experiement with my strapy varnish coatings as I have previous experienced 'whitening' on other kits I have painted and I seem to remember a very watery and shiney almost gloss finish to some mat spray varnish I used on citadel minitures, back in the day! Any thoughts suggestion, as always, most welcome. Horsetan; Thank you for your direction I will look into those. I have recently purchased a set for this build but it is generic regarding the spoke number so I could use those for another pannier kit I have. Thank you appreciate your suggestion.

So far I have managed to paint the detail on the backhead. This is generally poorly educated guess work but I think looks OK and as the crew and crane will block this as a view point I something I can live with. The white metal crew that were ordered from Monty's Models arrived during this time. Very little clean up required and the details are really nice. Using some old paint from my youth and newer ink washes the crew members have been completed but require varnishing then will be posed at the end stage. Not sure what if any details to pick out on the crane will continue to looking into this. Just the buffer beams to paint but this may take a number of coats due to the black base. The painting is slow going as I am not very keen on this element but plan to complete as 'workshop' then varnish to protect leaving weathering until much later after a lot of practice.

After completely losing motivation, this weekend sees a complete reversal! Visiting a finescale model railway show Saturday proved to be the re-ignition not only were the layouts excellent but I found a set for wheels suitable to use on Hercules. Now I just need to paint up the cab details and (I think) the buffers? As these should be in red. Really not sure so any advice will be greatfully received please.I know I said I would not but I have repainted the warning sign on the side of the crane. I used a black ink wash in the hope to highlight the detail but it completely wased out the white lettering so had to pick this out again. I have some loco crew figures from Monty's Model range, so will select a couple to occupy the footplate once painted. See looking for some more GWR pattern sleeper chairs for another wagon load. I have used all my previous stash of dummy white metal chairs on another.

It certainly has been a marathon event but I expected that due to available time, apologies to all. Well, the rivets are on and the paint has dried. Here's the results of the paint and rivet removel and replacement rivet transfer detail. I think a much crisper and better finish than the ones I produced although it was very satisfying producing something myself. I have been building a couple of GWR Banana Vans from the Parkside range whilst waiting for stripper and paint to dry aswell as tsting out an airbrush set purchase a while ago. I need a lot of practice with that!!! Wont be using it on any models for a long time I think. Stupidly, I made an impulse purchase whilst seeking some paints. I have a second GWR Chaired Sleeper Wagon to build and load. I have found that the sleeps I originally purchased and have pictured here are available on eBay by the same model shop but the P&P is a little cheaper for single item, excellent news BUT I can not find a supplier for the chairs. Does anyone know of any please? The last lot of chairs I purchased years ago. I am only looking for cosmetic they do not need to be the real deal. Here's a couple more pictures of the loco build to date. Just need to paint a few details and varnish, then on with the name and number plates and the chains. As previously noted the required wheel set is currently unavailable so I am keeping my eyes open for the appropriate wheels to become available second hand. I have learnt a number of valuable things from this build. Some regarding my personal modelling skills and some modelling tricks. Also and probably the one that keeps cropping up is how important research is when attempting a project like this. I have on numerous occasions referred back to the original pictures and spotted something new or that I have missed before. Next time (if) I will write a list of all the odd details and things I expect to have to find or create and do this a number of times over a few weeks before even thinking about making the first cut. Wheels also seem a major factor when building locomotives. I will have these down a an essential purchase prior to starting. I hope by documenting some of the build and challenges this will help and encourage others when coming to their first kit bash or rework. I have a huge respect for those who design and manufacture kits and details (of any type of modelling) as the process it much more complex than the end product shows, I also have a much better appreciation of the time and energy these people have to put into each design. Edit: Oh and find some appropriate figures for the driver and fireman, can't be missing that obvious detail!

Hope you have found some suitable sleepers. Looking forward to seeing your loaded wagons, feel free to post on this thread if you like. Same for everyone please feel free to post what you like (with in reason ) I am not too precious.

Here's the results. The pictures look a little messy but this is just the dirty wash left after the paint remover. Most of the rivets are in place as per prototype but I had to leave a few off. Just need to sort that masking template out and prime and paint. Will post end results;

I have a special place in my heart for 6 wheelers. I dont know much about the technical design or running so I am little use but I am very interested to see your build. David Green has/had some kits for 6 wheeled tankers and K's produced something similar but more basic. Justin Newitt/ Rumney Models has a lot of detailed information regarding milk tankers but I don't think he produces a full kit mainly chassis kits and additional detailing parts. With regards to the RTR option, on first appearance it is very similar to the Dapol tanker in the same livery; http://www.Dapol.co.uk/shop/oo-gauge/wagons-OO-Gauge/6-wheel-milk-tankers/4f-031-017-oo-gauge-6-wheel-milk-tanker-express-dairy-1800 Probably could pick a cheaper one up on eBay.

As promised I have found an hour or two on this bank holiday. The plastic safe paint stripper arrived a week ago so I have had plenty of time to build up some courage and make a mental plan of attack. Firstly I practiced on some painted plastic using the same types of paint and plastic to ensure the stripper was safe. Then I started but removing the rivets I have produced with a fine chisel ended knife. After taking a deep breath I washed a load of the stripper over the crane body using a paint brush. This has to be worked in using the brush. The paint starts to become watery and eventually can be wiped off. careful here as the paint is tacky and using kitchen towel (like I did) can lead a 'fluffy' finish. Any large deposits left from the paint collection in corners of other hard to reach areas can be easily removed using a cocktail stick or similar. This is what I am left with; This is the kit that was used, nothing special but one note to make is don't use one of your nice paint brushes like I did. The bristles get a little clogged and even after cleaning with hot soapy water as directed they seem stiffer and have that water repellant appearance. I hope I have not ruined it, we'll see. Now to replace all the rivets that have been removed with the proprietary transfers. Then to make a template for each side to surround the body and mask off the warning sign on the right hand side. Then to prime and re-paint in black. *Edit; to add the pictures I foolishly removed them when posting.

It has been a while since my last post and unfortunately no further work on Hercules has taken place. I am still waiting for plastic safe paint remover I ordered. I have however started work on a pair of Parkside GWR Banana Vans. I do love Parkside kits they go together with little/no fuss but allow the modeller to adapt as/if required. I had previously made a number of the O gauge GWR kits (years ago), those too were a joy to construct. I remember purchasing them just to build and then sell on as they were so enjoyable to construct. It seems that it will be the next bank holiday now before I can make a decent start on the paint and rivet removal.

A lovely project and very nice finishing. Those steps are tricky at times and even more so to keep on after completion.

Thank you and yes the chimney is much taller than most. The sleepers are from; scalemodelscenery.co.uk, pack of 52 code LX080 and no thanks you are welcome to have a go . I look forward to seeing your wagons, very happy for you to post them here. I used some very old Warhammer brown ink on them and they have turned out very nice. The white metal chairs I got a long time ago in preparation for such a load from eBay, sorry can not remember if they have a product name. I seem to remember them being described as decorative chairs for loads etc. I don't think they would suit actual rail construction especially as each one needed cleaning up and shaping. Here's a pic of the wagon loaded. All the sleepers are now fixed in place to the supporting timbers, the load is one piece and is currently removable but once I get the chains on that will be it fixed. I'll see what chain is left over from Hercules before continuing.

Had a little extra time so started making the load for the sleeper wagon built as one of the kit distractions during the Hercules build. Each wooden sleeper has been coloured individually using an ink wash. The chairs are also individually painted with an acrylic then an ink wash. Each then glued in place on the sleepers. These will create the load of new(ish) sleepers for the chair sleeper wagon, just visible in the background. Also readied the beetle for it's transfers and couplings. That nicely brings the wagon total to 2 Tube Cs, 1 Beetle, 1 Chaired Sleeper and 1 Mink G, all ready for transfers and couplings. Excellent distraction builds and some beautifully manufactured kits. I certainly appreciate the skill of the kit designers and manufacturers from having a go at making my own parts for Hercules. It has also encouraged me to add extra detail or to cut something away or reduce it's size of the kit parts rather than just put a kit together as directed.

Unfortunately my chosen painter remover did not arrive before the bank holiday actually it still has not arrived. How ever I was able to prime and paint the loco body; I do (oddly) like it in plain grey but it can not stay that way; Pleased with the end result, now just hope the removal of the crane rivets and replacement with transfers will be a success.

Decision made. I will remove the rivets that I made on the crane body. After a little research I have some plastic safe paint remover on order that should allow to minimise the 'damage' to the surrounding paint. I am hoping to only need to clear the sides and the rivets and then carefully repaint the area. Hopefully it will arrive before the bank holiday and I can get started whilst still feeling brave. Whilst that is on order I can now prime and paint the loco body. A quick clean around the chimney area before priming.

Thank you. It took a week's worth of convincing myself and then you reminded me to try something else (thank you) first. Then just closed my eyes and hoped. Now I have a similar situation regarding the removal of the rivets on the crane and replace them with rivet transfers. I know what I need to do but just have to convince myself I can do it and it will be worth the potential risk. Edit; The risk is that I will have to remove the paint but to what extent i.e the areas that have rivets only or the entire crane which could prove very tricky to completely remove/clean and ruin any future paint finish.

The filler caps had to be cleaned up and unfortunately a little detail has been lsot there but the pictures do make it look a lot worse than it actually looks. More flux and solder the chimney arrangement is soldered into position, checking to make sure it sits vertical from all angles. Once completed clean up with fine files, papers and a scratch pen for good measure. I am very pleased with the outcome and glad I took so long to plan and decide a line of attack although I would have preferred it if the boiling water method had removed it prior to the surgery. Having thought this being the final piece to the jigsaw before painting would commense I am now left with another dilemma! Having studied these close up pictures for a while now deciding on what action to take I am now thinking the rivets I made on the crane body are crude and oversized. I am thinking about stripping the paint off to remove the 'glue rivets' replacing with the rivet transfer as used for the rest of the locomotive. With the introduction of plastic safe paint remover this is a definate possiblity, even if only used for the crane sides carefully leaving the rest of the crane painted. Have more reflecting to do whilst I wait for my copy of Beck's and Harris' GWR Reflections arrives. Views always welcome for anything. Thank you to everyone that has contributed. Edit for typos only

So I had to clean up the remaining stump on the loco body and the top hat type piece. The middle straight part of the chimney is the section to be replaced and extended to gain the required height. With the brass tube measured and cut to length and lots of flux and a little solder (low melt) the top of the chimney was attached to the tube. I had to use a makeshift clamp so not to burn fingers. (I had previously measured the width of the funnel using a pair of flat tweezers and a steel rule in a make shift set of callipers).

Firstly to try the less brutal way, the boiling water technique. This, I think, could have worked if I didn't have so many rivet transfers around. I could not get enough water in the right places without risking those details and other soldered joints. So I tried the brutal approach. I say it in pictures.....................................................

Thank you for the heads up, have found a copy and got on ordered. Appreciate your posting.