Jump to content
Users will currently see a stripped down version of the site until an advertising issue is fixed. If you are seeing any suspect adverts please go to the bottom of the page and click on Themes and select IPS Default. ×
RMweb
 

Bluemonkey presents....

Members
  • Posts

    1,288
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Bluemonkey presents....

  1. Does anyone know of a why to change the Heading for a posting please? This one now has no reference to what is actually detailed here.
  2. After a little more chassis work I have this; Better pictures than from my phone as per yesterdays efforts. Maybe not 100% accurate a reasonable attempt I would like to think. Just need to make some appropriate steps now.
  3. Work on the chassis started. I will have to check the wagon body later but thought to start on the chassis as it will save time later if sides prove OK. So easy bit down so far will have to wait until back on the work bench to complete as I need to reduce the replacement the W iron assembly to fit the solebar.
  4. Thank you to one and all for your advice and help. It appears I have in my ignorance ruined the wagon sides regarding making a Y1 fruit although I think I can possibly fix this error by placing plasticard inside to close up all the opened slates. This may or may not work depending on how odd those holes will look. If this should fail to just the desired appearance I think rule 1 will have to be applied to this wagon and a semi-closed shorted siphon type experiment wagon will have to be put into service.
  5. I have tried a little research for the Y1 friut van but drawn a blank so far, plenty of Y2s though. How different are they? I also notice a lot have no apparent slates resembling more like a closed van. Might have to scrap the whole thing!
  6. Couple of hours work but worth it I think. I used one of those scriber type tools then cleaned out with a scalpel. The sides lose the strength so cross braces are required but I generally do this in all wagons to ensure sides stay true in future years.
  7. Thank you Miss Prism I do feel like a fool now but hey an even better wagon diagram to have especially as the original purchase was a mink v4. Glad I posted thank you.
  8. Mike I'm not brave enough to cut one of those down but through a little happy accident I have discovered this small siphon and have something a little close, not as accurate in planking as those Ks siphons but will do. My planned layout is 20/30s but my stock is everything Great Western as long as the rake is believable, applying rule 1 to a real life location. I will be modelling the single brake one side and the double the other as per 1920s (I think), another little oddity. Was hoping to finish off the paint and get the chassis and roof married but hey there is always another day. Pic so far;
  9. Just a little quickie if I may. Back story: I purchased Cooper Craft V4 mink kit on eBay when it arrived it was nothing like a mink but some other type 4 wheeled wagon with alternating relief planks on both sides and ends. Before returning it my little brain got busy and thought about basing it into a small short wheeled siphon. I have been researching said idea and the best I can come up with (closest) is; GWR Siphon O1 https://www.diagram3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=144. I have spent a day opening the relief and will post pics as soon as possible. I was just wondering if anyone had researched, discovered and/or modelled their own short siphon and what their results are?
  10. ??????? Positive support, Graham more can be asked as I am yet to model an Asmo thus can not lay suggestion to the encountered problem.
  11. I too failed to complete in time and hoped a further round would have been planned to enter my build.
  12. try a drop of liquid cement in the axle hole leave for a few seconds for the plastic to soften and carefully squeeze bearing in. I use it for Cooper Craft, Ratio and Dundas kits I dont have any Dapol to try.
  13. Thank you castle for organising and offer the RMWeb forum members a most excellent day. Something for everyone wow what a place crammed full, from old tie nails to the real thing thundering around the place. A massive thank you.
  14. Sadly not much time for modelling recently what spring springing plenty of outside things that can not wait. On a very positive note work has been relentless and full on , explanation to follow.................................................. Edit: Reasoning: When times are slow get out the kits!!!! Plus a little bit more on the beast.
  15. It might be worth sending Castle a PM as I know since the change of forum some people do not get updates on their threads.
  16. Top modelling Sir. Thank you for sharing those pictures. I certainly hope my layout has something close to yours. I love your attention to detail and your modelling philosophy.
  17. Spikey, they are decent models but as with everything it comes down to personal preferences and different media have specific pros and cons. Have a gander at Mikkel's thread. He certainly weaves some magic with various figures from all types of suppliers;
  18. White metal figures may give you a better opportunity to re-pose. Either shaping, filing or cutting body parts or placing in hot water for a short time so you can gently bend arms/legs. Monty Models from Dart Castings have a good range. Disclaimer; no links to the owners etc just a very satisfied customer. Edit; to add picture example;
  19. Wow that is an entirely new world. Good luck with the track laying.
  20. Not to worry then. I'll post here but the scan of the Wrenn transfers I have may not really help that much. I had purchased then with the intention of a similar project to yours but so far not got around to them. UD transfers.pdf Unfortunately it is the backing of the transfers so no yellow colouring but the outline is there.
×
×
  • Create New...