Jump to content
 

Ashley Bridge

Members
  • Posts

    210
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Ashley Bridge

  1. The fender would be five feet by three, fairly large to be moved about for mooring. If it were for a permanent use, ie for a ferry docking , it would probably be ideal. Might be best to roll up a piece of plasticine that size and see what it looks like in situ?
    Rich

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
    • Informative/Useful 1
  2. If you don’t manage to scource a supply, you could speak to Poppy’s Woodtech, he does a range of lineside laser cuts and could maybe do some of the Exmouth Junction castings as they were used everywhere in the Southern Region. Some of their basic moulds would definitely make business sense.

    I made my own running in boards based on the Southern Nuveau drawings.

    75A90527-A70A-499F-A467-346C6DF0DEAF.jpeg

    • Thanks 1
  3. 15 minutes ago, Mallard60022 said:

    Our 'friend' Redgate did some DCCing for me and did a good repair on my single loco with sound; a Spam. Nice whistle(s). He also worked a miracle on an old Bachman Nelson and that works a treat. The Junction thus has two Nelsons.

    I have pledged to not get hooked by Strictly this season as Darcy has departed. I am going up The Junction when that is on (unless I'm away) and may or may not do anything whilst up there.

    SWMBO has offered to help me tidy up up there! Can't turn that down.

    P

    Be careful, “tidying up” usually involves a large black sack and quite a lot of heartache.

     Rich 

    • Agree 3
    • Craftsmanship/clever 1
  4. If you were the other side of Exeter, in the domain of the Duck, the mixture of part rakes would be usual. It was normal practice to detach/attach  a single BCK for say, the Seaton Branch, or a BTK/CK pair for a heavier day, so only the main through trains used the longer sets.

    Watch me get shot down in flames now

    Rich

    • Like 1
    • Informative/Useful 1
  5. 12 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

    We're still here old fruit. Always happy to lend an ear.

    Welcome back, Mr Duck.

    i think you’d be surprised how many of us follow your saga. I went back four pages in the index yesterday to see if you’d posted, but was happy to wait till you were ready again. 

    My construction project further down the “Withered Arm” has stalled in the hot weather too.

    Rich 

     

     

    • Agree 1
    • Friendly/supportive 1
  6. 42 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

    Hmm.

     

    Little Muddle 4569 posts since 13/3/17 = 5.6 per day.

     

    Canopy nudging 97 posts since 4/7/19 = 8.1 per day.

     

    What a silly bunch we are.

    I thought that read “silly bunts” , bit more appropriate.

     

     

    Kings Bolledge Bambridge.

    • Like 2
    • Agree 1
    • Craftsmanship/clever 1
    • Funny 1
  7. 19 hours ago, KNP said:

    Though not exactly railway themed it is still in the modelling vein.

    My son is great Lego fan and he has just finished his latest project

     

    IMG_0187.jpg.f39cd915dca99c37686041aaeaa88e84.jpg

     

    3600 pieces and now he is planning to put working lights in it!

     

    While he’s doing lights, you should get him a sound chip for it. 

     

    Rich 

    • Like 1
  8. 7 hours ago, KNP said:

    For those of you interested here is the underside of the Bachmann chassis - wheel assembly removed!

    It shows the thin plastic I used to keep the two halves from making contact plus super glue is another good insulator so any areas missed I covered with a layer.

    The two wires are making each half 'live' which connect to the chip with the wheels picking up the power, transferring it to the chassis halves by the simple means of the wheel spindles (insulated in the middle to keep them separate) rubbing on the exposed metal in the seating - all very technical.

    The motor is also separated from the chassis mountings and connected to the chip via two wires - this was the most difficult bit to insulate but again super glue came to the rescue.

    Coupling loops in place for the S&W fittings, brass tub fixed in place vertically to allow the loop to be adjusted to the correct height and then glued

     

    IMG_0050.jpg.015518cac43e534f815c3705b7725154.jpg

     

    Transfer time, anything and everything pressed into service to hold the model in place for ease of fixing them

     

    IMG_0114.jpg.73b5e52b937721e3593d6973b487dc66.jpg

     

    One thing I would say is that it is best to have a dry run first to see if the model is in the correct position to assist ease of applying. I find it best to move the model to suit you and not the other way round.

     

     

    Well done, Kevin. That’s a handy tip about superglue being an insulator. I have usually drilled a clearance hole around the brush gear when chipping a split chassis 

    It’s always nice to see someone dispelling the “magic” about dcc.

    looking great, and you’ll never have traction problems.

     

    Rich

     

    • Thanks 1
×
×
  • Create New...