Woodcock29

Nice one Mark. I've actually got a VR J Class and could get tempted with a K. I've also got a DJH kit of an N Class but this will probably be built as one of the SAR 750 Class, acquired from VR in the 1950s. Andrew

I've finally finished a D3 I've been working on, on and off for about 2.5 years. One reason its taken so long is I wasn't happy with the paint finished after I sprayed it with my airbrush and I couldn't work out what was causing the paint to dry with a rough finish because as far as I could tell nothing had changed in how I used the airbrush. Anyway I stripped the tender and repainted that with a car rattle can. I rubbed the engine down and resprayed that with the rattle can. Finally I got around to lining it with a bow pen and HMRS lining on the boiler. The lining is far from perfect but once its been lightly weathered I think it will be ok. Since I took the photo below its been coaled, glazed and crewed. Its also now got a lamp on it for local passenger! The engine itself is from a Premier Kit (formerly Models and Leisure?) purchased quite cheaply secondhand in Perth, Western Australia in 2016. Its fitted with the smaller of the DJH motor/gearboxes and Markits wheels and has lots of extra brass detailing, including hand turned brass whistle in the cordless drill. The smokebox door is a resin casting from Graeme King's J6 that I had as a spare. The tender is a kit bash to get the correct Ivatt A Type tender with the remodelled front. The body sides and back minus soleplate are from a Ks C1 Atlantic). It has new homemade brass coal rails, new tender front from plastic card, Graeme King's cast resin water filler, tool boxes and frames. A sole plate cut from brass sheet and a Comet 6'6" + 6'6" inner chassis. Andrew

Oh I do like a C12! Andrew

Iain This might sound strange but I'm now using Dulux metal etch primer in a spray can from Bunnings! (For those in the UK Bunnings is probably our largest Hardware chain here in Australia) I've sprayed a Chivers NE 4 wheel CCT with this only a few hours ago. It seems to work fine. Just give it a number of light coats. Firstly I spray the vehicle with it upside down then when I can move it I spray it the right way up. I used to use an automive spray but started to get rather average results with this hence the search for something else. For the first time today I've used Testors dullcote through my airbrush - let down with white spirit and that seems to be fine on a loco I'm just finishing off. Andrew

On the subject of Jidenco kits, I'm currently refurbishing an LMS Beer van acquired in a batch of wagons bought at auction - it would have been much easier to start with an unmade kit! I did build the 2 Jidenco GN fish vans back in the 80s which are still running on my layout - better take some photos of them at some stage! Claughtons - lovely looking locos. There was a time though, more than 15 years ago, if you'd asked me if I ever have a LNWR lcoco on my layout I would have said no way. Now I've got about 6 and another 3-4 to refurbish. How our views change over time. Here's the DJH Claughton I built for a mate back in 2000 and then subsequently acquired when he started selling his 4mm models - I'm sure I've shown it on here before - still on his layout in this photo. Andrew

Andy In your situation I would change one of the 5s to an 8 and the other to a 6 using a fine paint brush. Andrew

I've not had to vary BTB on any of my recent Hornby purchases (I use Peco Code 75) but have on a number of Bulleid light pacifics a friend purchased quite some years ago. Some were less than 14mm on the driving wheels. Andrew

I've recently purchased a secondhand, virtually mint 'Black Watch' DC Ready model in early livery. I've noticed it seems to draw a very high current, around 0.7A at about 80% on a Gaugemaster controller. It seems to run ok most of the time but certainbly doesn;'t have a very high top speed, but I did notice it slowing down yesterday at one stage. Has anyone else noted what current a DC model draws running on DC? I thought I'd better ask this question on line before starting to pull it apart to see if I can find any faults. Andrew

It would be great to see 402 running again Terry. I somehow doubt it though. However, we probably thought we'd never see an ASG run again but the only survivor is well under way in its restoration at Queenscliff. So I guess who knows? Andrew

Ah yes the version produced for Prescision Models if I remember correctly? Clearly a model of the preserved loco as it visited Australia in 1988-89 with an A4 boiler. 4472 must have been painted in haste before leaving the UK as the lettering and numbers were never finished with the full shading and the white edging to the gold. Also the superheater header covers were not the normal shape having sharp fore and aft edges. The model appears to have these. I seem to recall seeing one of these models in a shop at the time. Andrew

Tony it's so long ago I can't really remember whether it was a banjo or streamlined. Clearly it must have been a banjo. I also have some banjo domes in stock- accumulated from bits and pieces that have come my way. I could start using them for weights in vans or under loads in open wagons I suppose as I doubt I'll build any A3s from the last batch built.

My first attempt, at the age of 8, was an Airfix Presflo that I found in Dad's cupboard during the school holidays probably not long before we emigrated to Australia. I can't remember his reaction but I guess he wasn't pleased at the time as I think there was glue everywhere! However, my main introduction into kit building was from around 11 starting with the Airfix Sopwith Camel as I'd been reading Biggles books. Several more WW1 aircraft quickly followed. Then it was warships and WW2 aircraft. I've actually still got most of the warships in a cabinet in my railway room. In my teens I started to also muck around with repainting RTR models like a BR Flying Scotsman into LNER apple green after trying to fill the hole after removing the streamlined dome and fitting a round one. My first kit, for my 16th birthday was a Wills bodyline N7 which I fitted to a Triang chassis as intended. I've still got that sitting in a cabinet but with Romfords on the chassis and an MW005 motor in it. The body I rebuilt back in the 1980s to an LNER build with roundtop firebox, different bunker, cab roof, chimney etc. I've even only last year acquired a SE Finecast chassis to build for it. Every now and then I browse the warship kits available now in the shops but daren't buy one as it would distract me from the main game building the extensive stash of loco and other rollingstock kits I've accumulated. The latest addition being an LRM Midland horsebox won in the raffle at the recent BRMA Convention in Brisbane. Andrew

It was great to visit yesterday John and Steve is still singing the praises of operating two DCC layouts as the highlight of our trip! But I'm sure he'll come back down to earth and remember he has a nice DC layout which featured in the last issue of The Clearing House. Andrew

With regard to Jidenco/Falcon Brass I've built the Lanky Steam Railmotor which eventually turned out very well running on a Black Beetle bogie in the coach end. Can't show it as I'm away at present but it been seen on here before. About one third ended up being scratchbuilt including the cab rear, cab interior, coach interior, underframe, outside frame of coach bogie, half the valvegear and the mechanically operated push pull gear on the roof. I've also built the 5T and 6T GN fish vans and have 2 of the GC 6 wheel brakes to build one day. Andrew

On the subject of disposing of someones books, if you're in a group/club or somesuch then you have to opportunity to sell to fellow members which I've done several times. I've never contemplated selling books and having to post them to someone due to postage costs. Fortunately I've managed to sell most that I've needed to but I price them to sell. Also fortunately I've never had to deal with a very large collection of books. Andrew

I've sometimes found It's often easier to make a new one from thick brass wire to the exact distance to suit you radii. Andrew

Tony Beware of the new arrangement on the P2s. My Thane of Fife stopped working and upon investigation one of the contacts in the female plug on the tender had stopped connecting so I had to pull it all apart and found the contact strip all mangled up. It broke off when trying to straighten it out so I actually had to solder a piece of phosphor bronze strip in its place. It's all working again now. Andrew

Over the last year I've had to overhaul a large collection of RTR models I was selling for an old chap. He'd fitted DCC to most including to several old Bachmann split chassis locos. So I needed to remove the decoders in most instances to be able to test them on my DC. Managed to get most running including 2 Granges. Most were sold to our BRMA members as DC models. Didn't have much trouble removing bodies including from the Granges. Mainly just had to remember how each type came apart. Have also just overhauled another Grange for friend- just needed relubrication as it hasn't run for quite a while. Have to agree with comment above about working on Heljan steam locos - they are simply awful to pull apart and fit back together. I found that when working on my O2/3. Their very fine wiring is terrible. I ended up doing away with using tender pickups on that after I removed the awful coupling arrangement. It wa too hard to get wires back into the engine from tender. Now I have a garratt to fix that had fallen on the floor! Got it really cheap and I'll keep that but the wiring of the units is all shot! Also another really cheap O2/3 that doesn't run properly - also exceedingly cheap. Hoping to rebuild it to an O2/1 if I can get the new low footplate as a spare in due course. Andrew

Tony I've just received Thane of Fife through a friend who's a member of the Hornby Collectors Club. It certainly is a striking model. Given you've fitted the additional parts provided it looks like Lord President also has the front guard irons missing in the extras packet, as does Thane of Fife. I understand these can be provided by Hornby if one asks for them. Of course I can easily make up some brass ones which will be thinner anyway. I have to say I'm still very disappointed with what Hornby provide as etched nameplates - in reality they are nothing like proper etched plates. I've also just received Earl Marischal and that proved to be interesting. I already had a pair of etched nameplates in stock (from 247) but they are nowhere near long enough. I understand from another thread on RMweb that Fox plates for 'Earl' are also too short. It appears that Hornby have got the length of the plates correct and unfortunately on 'Earl' they've actually fitted plastic plates (like their A4 models) whereas on the other P2s they have applied nameplates in the print process and also provided their version of etched plates as add ons. I'm thinking of asking either 247 Developments or Fox if they can produce plates of the correct length as I'll need plates of the correct length once I remove the plastic plates. The alternative that I'm contemplating is to make a pair of the smoke deflectors that were fitted later, from brass and simply fitting the etched plates but I'll know they are much too short. On my 'Earl' I noticed that the cab sides were bent inwards in the centre of their rear so I've removed the cab by gently prising the sides away with a screwdriver inserted between the sides and the seats. The seats in Earl need to have their backs removed as they have the large rear cab cutout. Also the metal footplate is bent very slightly downwards at the rear under rear part of the cab side so there is gap under the rear of the sides, particularly on the drivers side. As its metal I'll just need to leave that alone I think. I've scraped away a lot of the glue that was holding the sides to the sides of the floor inside the cab with a scalpel and have got a much better fit after straightening the rear of the sides simply by bending with my fingers. Despite all this it does run very well! Andrew

Doug the chap to the left of Brian looks like former BRMA President, Harry Howell. May he also rest in peace maybe watching trains at Stafford?

Chas Fortunately there is one operational AD 60 garratt currently and I'm hoping to see it and ride behind it at the end of Sept at the NSW Transport Heritage Festival in Sydney on my way back from our annual British Railway Modellers of Australia Convention in Brisbane the weekend before. Here it is close to completion in its restoration in Canberra back in 2013 and if I'm not mistaken that's St Enodoc looking rather pensive standing right next to the loco on the left behind the bloke in the high vis top! Andrew

My Dad built a D16/3 from the B12/3 on a Triang L1 chassis based on the magazine article (MRC?). I used a B12/3 body to make an O1 sitting on a Hornby Dublo 8F chassis when I was in my mid-late teens I guess. It didn't look quite right so I converted that body into a K1 using a Triang 2-6-2 chassis. Likewise I have no idea what happened to them and have no photos. I think the 8F chassis went back under its 8F body and was sold - I know I bought the 8F from a friend at school for $2 (~£1) in about 1970 ! Andrew

I wonder what happens when the instigator of it all paases on? He has amassed a huge collection and I do understand there is some form of support group but he told me personally back in 2019 that the local council is totally 'green' and opposed to any notion of anything burning coal being operated - not that he has anything in operational condition or ever likely to have. However, I understand the 2 RODs, along with most of the other steam locos including the AD 60 4-8-4 + 4-8-4 garratt have been painted with oil every few years and exhibit minimal surface rust considering the years they've been there. So maybe their condition is not terminal? A few photos from my 2019 visit to give readers an idea of what is there. Andrew

Ks kits - my experiences The first loco kit I built with a 'proper' chassis was a Ks J72 in about 1973. But the wheel keyholes weren't all aligned in the chassis - eventually I managed to get it to run to some level of satisfaction - but it hasn't seen the light of day for a long time! About 1976 I built a C1 but this was eventually fitted with Romford wheels and a MW 005 motor from memory. It was subsequently dismantled in the 90s and is likely one day to form the basis for a model of 3279. In the mid 70s I bought set of Ks Black 5 cylinders and valve gear and fitted them to a Triang /Hornby Black 5 in place of the Britannia valve gear - I think this started my love of building valve gear! In 1975 I purchased a secondhand O4 at an exhibition here in Adelaide which I rebuilt in the early 80s with a later pair of Ks frames, Romford wheels and a Portescap - since the photo below its also now got fully flanged wheels. It needs renumbering as this is for an O4/1 but it should be an O4/3. The P2 was built for my father back in the mid 1980s from a kit bought in the mid 70s. The colour was what Humbrol provided as LNER green at that time! It might get weathered heavily to see if that darkens it up? Fitted with a Portescap and full of lead it will pull anything I put behind it. It doesn't really meet my standards by a long way now. I also used Ks P2 valve gear on a Bristol Models V2 and K3 in 1978. I bought and built a cheap Fowler 2-6-2T in the 1980s but sold that on. A B2 built in 1987 - the kit was actually purchased in a model shop here in Adelaide after I had built a Millholme B5 and fallen in love with GC 4-6-0s. The pitch of the boiler was raised a couple of mm and the cab side sheets lengthened, dome modified and it has a cut down Craftsman A5 chimney. Fitted with Romfords and powered with a large early Portescap. B3 'Valour' built from a B2 kit and powered with an early Portescap - one of my favourite locos. Every 11th Nov I adorn it with appropriate wreaths. A heavily modified Ks J3 - Mainly Trains J52 chassis, LRM Stirling tender and Graeme King J6 smokebox door. I also have a couple of J50s. One built for my father by someone in London before we emigrated. I replaced its HD R1 chassis with a Perseverance chassis. I also bought a second hand J50 from a friend only a few years ago, mainly for the Perseverance chassis but in the end I've retained it as J50 rather than using the chassis in something else, despite the boiler being pitched too high in these kits. I've even still got an ubuilt Ks J50 body! I've also got a couple of Ks LMS garratt chassis put away to go under a Kitmaster garratt - not sure I'll ever get around to that though? Andrew

Has anyone else compared the platework on the front of the smokebox of the streamlined version with Prototype photos? The recent closeup photos to show the hole reminded of this matter. The smaller section of platework above the opening 'cods mouth' shouldn't be there. The 'mouth' should actually go higher up. Hornby appear to have copied the platework, although the size is slightly different, from that of an A4.