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Longhaireddavid

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Posts posted by Longhaireddavid

  1.  

    With severe arthritis I need a lightweight model railway so that I can easily turn it over to work on the electrics. I have been using foamcore for this for the last 10 years and have had no trouble so long as it is framed adequately. I laminate three layers for the side rails and the cross members - which I pit at 12" gaps. My current 8' x 2' layout can be picked up with one hand and doesn't flex at all. I prefer black foamcore (from Amazon in packs of 4 A1 sheets) for my baseboard. Here is a shot of the current layout plus one from underneath showing the three layers..

     

    faom 2.jpg

    foam1.jpg

  2. 21 hours ago, 57xx said:

     

    Most "modelling" consumables are just that. 50ml modelling MEK? £7. Generic butanone/MEK 500ml, £8.99. Microsol, 28ml, ~£7. Butyl glycol* (99%, needs a lot of diluting) 1000ml, £10. Microset, 28ml, £7. White Vinegar from Asda. You get the drift.

     

    I have got a bottle of clear PVA from The Works, not tried it as glue 'n' glaze though but it has held glazing in place nicely. I'm sure EVA can be had at a decent rate.

     

    *Edit: Butyl glycol is also the key component of Vallejo thinners. 1l would probably last a life time with the amount it needs diluting (down to about 25%).

     

    I go to Amazon £9.99 for a litre of MEK or a litre of 99.98% IPA. My go to wood glue is Titebond which, in spite of being yellow, sticks canopies fine and dries clear. Just used it for ballasting as well.

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  3. 41 minutes ago, Paul H Vigor said:

    Re Dean Goods axle load decals: was it uncoloured or blue??

     

    Shed plate on smokebox door.

    I had a look around and concluded that it was red if we are talking about the C plate. Where does it go? I think that it goes below the number on the cab side.

  4. Hi everyone. 

     

    I wanted a Dean Goods on my little ex-GWR BR shunting layout but the only one I could get was a WD version.  I found Railtec could do the transfers/decals (as you wish) for me but, now they are here, I need a little help.

     

    They asked some questions:

    - Which running number you would like;
    - Whether the 3d cabside plates have a black or red background;
    - Whether the running number should be lined or unlined;
    - Which shed code; ***
    - What power classification and on what colour background (if any) ***
    - What size crest (small is approx 3mm high, medium 5mm high, large 9mm high)
    - Whether the crests should both be left-facing as standard?

     

    The questions with *** are the problems. Now I have the transfers I don't know where these go on the model. Here is a photo of the sheet. Obviously, I know where the BR logo goes (this is actually a spare that they provide.  The three may not be quite the correct for this loco but I had to guess a bit when ordering but - hey ho - never mind - I know little about the GWR/BR so I am happy just to have something. Can I just add that the 3D decal of the number on the cab side was brilliant. They print these up especially for you so the service is wonderful.

     

    There are three, actually that I can't place. Can anyone tell me where they go?

    decal.jpg

  5. Hi everyone. I have now moved from US outline to GWR. I have four locos - 2 x pannier, 1 x 23XX and 1 Manor. I want to put drivers into each but not sure which side they sit. I have a feeling that GWR was left hand drive. Is this correct?

  6. 1 hour ago, railtec-models said:

     

    I'm wondering if one of the existing customisable offerings below might be a good fit?

     

    https://www.railtec-models.com/catalog.php?search_str=complete+steam+loco&gauge=4mm

     

    Everything you need for the loco (with exception of lining), incl your choice of ready-made number (either standard BR or 3d cabside plate), 3d smokebox (or bufferbeam number), 3d shed code, totem facing left and/or right and power classification all in the one pack. Spot printed so no superfluous carrier film, saves you having to line up individual digits and perfect print/colour registration.

     

     

    In fact I found this and have ordered a set. Trouble is I have no idea how to answer most f the questions 

    - Which running number you would like;  23XX - suggestions?
    - Whether the 3d cabside plates have a black or red background; black I think 
    - Whether the running number should be lined or unlined; unlined 
    - Which shed code; No Idea. My railway ^s based in Devon
    - What power classification and on what colour background (if any) No idea
    - What size crest (small is approx 3mm high, medium 5mm high, large 9mm high) 5mm I think
    - Whether the crests should both be left-facing as standard? Yes, I think

     

    So how did I do?

     

    Once this is sorted I can answer their questions correctly.

     

    I was brought up in a SR electric environment and my first train set was a TR hang Transcontinental so I have always built US outline so I am very much in the dark when such detailed equations come up.

     

  7. Hi everyone

     

    I was given a nice gift voucher for Amazon for Xmas. I wanted to buy an Oxford Rail Dean Goods in early BR but they only had one in WD markings. I bought it and I can respray the body and tender black but where do I go to get a number and BR early tender decals?

     

     

  8. On 03/12/2023 at 09:38, Bluemonkey presents.... said:

    Thanks @Mikkel 

    I really think I am at peace with the dissolving my my collection. Weird really it only took a couple of evenings looking at the amassed collection of boxes. My modelling keeps coming back to include military items and as daft as it sounds I enjoy making up the Airfix and equivalent kits but of course they need railway wagons.

    It took some time to get the components together for the Mail/Ocean Mail train so that is definitely something to stay and challenge. I also have a strong interest in milk traffic, especially tankers, so those kits are also of high importance to me. So my main focus will be one those kits I have to finish the permanent way trains, the mail and any milk traffic.

     

    I have a few 'specialist' complete loco kits like the De Glehn. These are the ones that will prove most difficult as there is not an RTR equivalent but realistically do I need them? How are they to improve my layout? So I must have a major sort through. I will of course keep a few especially things such as a Gibson Buffalo and my recent Armstrong purchase. I have to also complete the diesel twin set I started years ago! Releasing the kits to others will, I am sure, release a lot of build pressure and burden from me. I do like collecting railway kits though but that is a habit that needs stopping! New mantra will have to be "If time will not allow you, then neither should your wallet". Although that does not apply to everyone else especially if you are a likely customer of said kits🤣

     

    When I owned a scale plastic model shop here in Ipswich, I had a mail order customer pop in to see us one day. He was 82 and had 4,000 kits in his loft. I asked if he expected to live until 525 or maybe 550? Your stash should always be inside your life expectancy!

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  9. I have a simple rule. Only buy what is necessary. When I designed the layout - an 8' long GWR branch terminus - I worked out what I needed and that is what I have.  I will not buy anything more for the layout unless the new Accurascale Pannier proves to be a better fit than the Bachmann small prairie - which seems to have glossy wheels and slips at the slightest excuse. However, I will wait until they are out and see the reviews before I move - as I did with the Accurascale Manor and the Rapido 15XX.

    • Like 1
  10. 3 hours ago, steve1 said:

     

    Woodland Scenics products are distributed by Bachmann…

     

    steve 

    Woodland Scenics are gone in the local Ipswich/Martlesham store. The space has been taken by a range of Wargames scenic stuff.

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