MikeOxon

I saw your 'hello' message - good to see a member of the Services joining in! If you've plenty of time to read it all, there is a very lengthy thread about the

Good to see the progress you are making. May I offer another suggestion - I suggest putting a loop on your hand-held controller and then hanging it on one or more strategically placed cup-hooks, when not in use. The trouble with a shelf is that you will catch the wire and drag it off! Mike

What a pristine locomotive! Interesting to see the size comparison with the standard wagon. Mike

I like this (especially with my natural history photography hat on) The railway link might be thought a little tenuous, though. Mike

Sounds like the "there's a hole in my bucket" situation! Seriously, it's useful to have two irons. You can use them for different temperature solders, for example.

"The real no. 5141 also had a rivet head missing on one corner plate" I have often read about 'rivet counters' but now it seems we have to count missing rivets too Seriously, a very nice model and,as you point out, scratch-building allows you to follow the construction details of the real thing. Mike

Sorry to read about the soldering iron - all part of the modelling learning curve Perhaps you could make the back-scene removable for transport? I think it needs to be a reasonable height, to create the illusion, and I do like your curved idea. The holes for the track do look a bit small in the photos, however. There is a useful guide to clearances at http://www.elginmodelrailwayclub.co.uk/2010/advice/dimensions/standard-railway-modelling-dimmensions.html I would recommend a minimum height above the rails of 60mm and the same width for a single track. Better to be safe than sorry, as it would be a pain to have to open up the holes after completing the scenic work. Mike

Great stuff! I must add red lipstick to my toolbox ASAP - I always like learning tricks like this and I'm sure it's more effective than the soft pencil I used to use. After all, isn't the main purpose of the stuff to leave incriminating marks?!! I'd love to suggest a name but I'm in the same situation myself so, when I have a bright idea, I shall claim it first As a hint, look around for all those branches that were never built! Mike

I visited the Swindon Railway Festival yesterday (15th Sep). It's always good to study prototype fittings, such as the sand boxes on the Dean Goods. In model form, these often show a 'draw' from the casting process, so it was useful to be reminded of the shape and details of the original. Dean Goods no.2516 - Sand Box There was also a sizeable model railway exhibition and I got talking on the Broad Gauge Society stand. I mentioned that I had recently photographed BG and NG models together, and had been struck by how the BG locomotive 'towered over' the other. The person on the stand was rather dismissive of this idea, saying that BG engines were actually quite small and could not have been taller because of loading-gauge restrictions. This prompted me to re-check the dimensions from various books and I made the following diagram, for study purposes, from small sections of two scale drawings. The BG single is from Alan Prior's 19th Century Railway Drawings and the Dean Single is from C.J.Freezer's Locomotives in Outline GWR (both drawn to 4mm/ft scale): Broad and Narrow - Head to Head The height from rail to chimney top of the BG engine is shown on the drawing as 14' 6", whereas the Dean measures 52mm on the drawing, or 13' at full-size. I feel that my 'towers over' description was pretty apt! The Swindon Steam museum also houses the North Star replica, which I photographed: From the drawing in Russells GW Engines, the original measured an even more impressive 15' 2" (rail level to top of chimney). Engines like these must have made a very strong impression during the first half of the 19th century! For comparison, a 'King' only manages a height of 13' 4 1/2". Mike

I took this view of Caerphilly Castle today at Swindon Steam Museum Mike

As I mentioned in my first entry in this blog, my layout started many years ago as a Hornby Dublo layout for my young son. The plan was taken directly from the Hornby Dublo Handbook of 2-Rail Track Formations (1st edition), as shown below, drawn using SCARM software Original Track Plan (as built in 1979) This track plan formed the basis for a small, simple layout, to which I added a narrow gauge section (009) at a higher level, for additional interest. The upper level hides the 'round and round' nature of the main line, while leaving the station, at the front, and goods yard visible, for scenic modelling. There was never anything very prototypical about the layout and I treated it mainly as a framework for developing scenery and 'vignettes' for photography. When I returned to this railway, a couple of years ago, I decided to use it for the Victorian designs, which I was interested in constructing. One major limitation in operating the track was the lack of a passing loop on the main circuit, so I decided one could be provided by replacing one of the points on the cross-over loop with a three-way point. Again, by using the SCARM software, I found that I could incorporate a Peco SL-E99 'electrofrog' point, without making major changes to the overall layout. Revised Layout Plan (including 009 section) I marked the positions for the new track on the baseboard, assisted by use of the Peco templates, as shown by the following photo of the 'work in progress'. Marked-up Baseboard and Templates The new point required two point motors and switches, to control the live-frog polarity. For these functions, I used SEEP motors, with integral switches. For ease of installation, I mounted the motors onto small rectangles of printed circuit board, together with block connectors. This meant that all the soldering could be done on the bench, with the connector blocks used subsequently, to hook up to the wiring under the baseboard. SEEP Point Motor Module Since I already had a 'hand-held' controller, I decided to adopt a similar principle for operation of the point switches. I mounted the six point switches needed on my layout in a small plastic box, from Maplin, and connected this to the layout via a multi-way lead, taken from a parallel-port printer cable. Remote Controller for Points The connections from the point motors were all brought to a common board, carrying three sockets to connect controllers for points, mainline, and narrow gauge, respectively. Again, I designed the board so that most of the wiring could be done on the bench, with just the final hook-ups having to be done under the baseboard. All the wiring is colour-coded and labelled to assist the final assembly. Two views of the Control Panel Points Wiring Plan Once all this was in place, I had the basis of a layout to display my Victorian stock Mike

Gooch would not have approved such behaviour. It is said that he founded the Mechanics Institute at Swindon to counter drunkenness, when he heard that this was becoming a problem at Swindon! History repeated itself, since both the Gooch and Dean singles started as 2-2-2 designs but were rather hastily modified, when the front ends proved too heavy for the axles.

I knew someone would ask that I'm afraid not - it's just a straight build of the Milestones kit. As my interest in the 19th century grows, I might think about how to motorise it. Another confession is that the outside handrails are only Photoshopped on - they just seemed too vulnerable to fit. I feel that there is something 'ship-like' about the early BG engines, with their rails round the edge and boiler like a superstructure. It's hard to believe that engines of this size were around in 1847! Mike

One aspect of modelling, which interests me, is the ability to compare the proportions of locomotives that are rarely photographed together. Many years ago, I built a K's Milestones kit of the GWR Broad Gauge 'Rover' class locomotive, so I decided to photograph this model alongside my Tri-ang Dean single, to illustrate the profound differences between these types: The Broad Gauge locomotive takes advantage of the width between the wheels to use a much larger diameter boiler and very wide firebox but, at the same time, the overall length is much shorter. When Dean designed his locomotives, it was still considered important to maintain a low centre of gravity, so he had to fit a boiler of sufficient steaming capacity between the large driving wheels; hence, the much smaller diameter but increased length. It was not until much later, when boiler pitch was allowed to increase, that the girth could once again reach Broad Gauge proportions. One day, perhaps, I shall build some mixed-gauge track, so that I can see these locomotives performing together! Mike

Thank you Mikkel. I was pretty sure about the V hanger but it's nice to receive confirmation. Mike

I found SCARM very useful, when I wanted to work out how to include a 3-way point into an existing layout that was based largely on old Hornby-Dublo track (all in the library!). My railway also has an 009 section on an upper level and this is shown as well, on the 3D view. Mike

To test Burgundy's suggestion, I photographed one wagon side and then used Photoshop to make a mirror image. This shows that there is indeed a small discrepancy in the placing of the bump stops and V-hangers. Since I aligned the axleboxes with the bump stops, this can explain the mis-aligned axles.

Thank you for your comment, Michael. I am always happy to share ideas and methods, especially as I spend some time thinking about (hopefully) easy ways of doing things! As a postscript to this post, I dismantled my first poor attempt and re-built it with a brass floor. For those who mistrust superglue, it was actually quite difficult to get the first one apart! Just as one needs to use flux for a soldered joint, it is equally important to prepare surfaces well for a glued joint. If care is taken, glue will do a great job! Mike

I've now built my second GWR 3-planker from a David Geen kit. This time, I made a floor from 10 thou brass sheet, which acted as a template to keep the body panels square. It certainly solved the problem of trying to align several lumps of white metal in my far-from-steady hands! My method, when working with brass sheet, is to print a scale drawing of the part onto paper and then stick the paper to the brass using a glue-stick. For the wagon floor, I simply used a guillotine to cut out the rectangular shape but this method comes into its own for complex shapes, such as curved frames, when one simply has to follow the lines on the paper template with appropriate cutting tools. Afterwards, the paper is easily removed by soaking in hot water. Now, I could assemble the sides and ends, using the floor as set-square and template. The sides have steps at the top of the solebars, on the inside, which provide secure mountings. At the ends, I provided a folded tab, which similarly provided a secure fixing. It was now very simple to align one side and one end - unlike when these parts were 'floating' freely. The additional sides were then added and fixed to the floor-plate. In fact, the castings all fitted very well and simply needed the floor as a jig to assist their assembly. This time, I ignored the advice in the instruction sheet and waited to attach the axle guards until after the main structure was complete. This showed up an asymmetry in the castings since, when the guards were centred over the bump stops on one side, those on the opposite side were noticeably displaced, when the axles were lined up correctly. I fitted the guards on one side first and then trued up the axles before gluing those on the opposite side. The detail on the castings is very good indeed and once I had found a way of truing up the assembly, I think this makes a very attractive early wagon. I am very grateful for all the suggestions that were made on my previous posts and would like to ask one more question. Am I correct to assume that the V-hanger should be removed from the side opposite the brake gear? I guess that there was no shaft across the wagon but that the one-side brake was supported by a single V-hanger and the vertical rod inside the brake rods. Now for another pause. I read, on another thread, about air brushes and, as a result, have bought an AS186 kit to have a go! It may take some time for me to get the hang of it and, definitely, some time before I have anything fit to post! Mike

I do like those early coaches and the way you've used mahogany veneer for the running boards. I'm even more impressed by the lining on the coaches you show on the link above. I know how difficult it is to get an even line with a bow pen! Mike

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think my own clumsiness was the main reason for mis-alignment, as the cast w-irons are actually separate from the side castings. The instructions suggested fitting them first, which I did, but it would be better to leave them until later, so that they can be aligned correctly. I'm going to try my brass floor idea first and may also try the MJT etchings. I enjoy problem-solving Mike

Thanks for those thoughts, Poggy1165. Iain Rice's book on building etched brass kits has been a constant source of inspiration and I do like his definition of a 'kit' including "the kit designer must describe how the kit is to be built, and he should have addressed and solved all the problems encountered in building the model at the design stage". Fortunately, I quite enjoy 'problem-solving' I agree that superglue sometimes gets a bad press but is great, when used correctly. I'm also testing Bostik 'Serious Glue', which seems quite promising.

Photographs can be very cruel! Looking at the photo of the handbrake ratchet in my previous entry, all I see is the huge tab, which I have not filed smoothly. It's invisible in practice but not on the photo! It's a real test, to subject modelling to this type of scrutiny. My favourite weapons for removing those pips, as well as flash on white metal, are emery nail boards from the pharmacy. They're cheap and disposable, and don't get ruined by white metal, so saving my precious needle files. It was very pleasant to read the favourable comments on my N6 horsebox. Yes, it was a bit challenging at times but the sort of challenge that results in a real sense of achievement and of having learned something. Since building that kit, I have been thinking about other additions to my vehicle fleet, to replace several RCH wagons with something more characterful. I saw some three-plankers with rounded ends on Mikkel's blog. I rather liked the look of these and thought that, after the N6, they should be pretty simple ..... shouldn't they? Well, most entries on this site seem to show how wonderfully people have overcome difficulties and produced beautiful models but that is not the case here. I've been making rather a mess of things but hope that it will all prove to be part of a learning curve. The David Geen kit for the GWR three-planker contains some very nicely moulded and detailed (on both sides) castings for the sides and ends of the wagon, plus a few other small castings and a piece of planked plasticard, which I assume is intended as the floor (though not cut to size). Kit components The kit includes plenty of information about the prototypes but very little by way of building instructions, apart from a recommendation to use low-melt solder or epoxy but, preferably, not superglue. I soon found that there are no location pips or raised edges, to assist with location of the parts, either horizontally or vertically, The ends of the sides are simply mitred at about 45 degrees. Also, because of the curved tops to the ends, and the V-hangers below the solebars, I couldn't set up the parts upon a flat surface! I could not think of an easy way to jig it up for soldering, or to hold it firmly while epoxy hardened, so I decided to try superglue (against recommendations). Actually, I quite like superglue and find it effective, with the proviso that parts must be close-fitting and free of surface contamination (including any residual mould-release agent.) These parts weren't like that and there was a distinct taper at the ends (which I think I can see on Mikkel's model also). So, a bit of gentle work with the nail boards provided bright, matching surfaces that seemed to fit together pretty well. I decided to hand-hold one side and one end at right-angles (by eye) and then tack them together with superglue, then count to fifty as it hardened. Good! Next the other pair and now to put the two bits together, to make the rectangular plan of the wagon. I held the pieces in a pair of ratchet clamps but then realised that the side pressure from the clamps forced the mitred joints to push the ends apart! As the photo below shows, the thing looked far out of square and, in trying to sort this out, my tacked joints failed ... 'bother' ( actually, I used a word with different letters after the 'b') Oh well, clean up and try again with the delicate balancing act. Use of ratchet clamps By now, I had decided to use this wagon as an experiment, to discover better ways of building the next one. I cut the plasticard to size for the floor, fitted the rather horrible mis-shapen buffers, which didn't fit the holes in the buffer beams, and carried on with the rest of the assembly. When I slotted some wheels into their bearings, it was clear that things were very out of true - the axles were far from perpendicular to the axis of the wagon. Mis-aligned axles Right, I've now paused for reflection. I find that problems like this find some recess in the back of my mind and churn away there. A potential solution then pops out at an inopportune moment - for example, at 3am, when I am trying to sleep. In this case, the idea was to cut out a rectangle of brass sheet, to form a rigid floor / chassis, with fold-down tabs to support the ends. I could mount the sides onto this chassis and run a fillet of epoxy under the floor, to make everything secure. Then I could prepare the sides to receive the two ends, making sure that everything was square against my brass template. I'll stop at this cliff-hanger, in case better ideas pop out in the next day or two, but I think (hope) I'm on the way to a successful model. I must find some nice buffers, too!

Well, there's probably something in that I'd built loads of plastic and white metal stuff and actually found the precision of the brass etches a welcome change. And I certainly learned a lot about undergear! Now that I'm retired,I enjoy a bit of a challenge.

Thanks for the comment, I enjoy scratch building / modding, so it's nice to move away from the RTR coverage and make something different! I've just moved a second post from its original place in the Pre-Grouping forum, so you've not had long to wait! Mike