Gremlin

Won't accept my existing username/password...

Can they be replaced with something smaller? Is the "something" readily available?

What is the preferred method of blackening the rods? Marker pen, dilute paint, something else...?

Just wondering if people are receiving their Birdcage carriage orders? I read on other fora that people have them and Rails of Sheffield seem to have them in stock. I ordered mine in April and Hattons say they are waiting to receive them... seems strange of others have had them for some time?

Not really, I want the bare plugs so I can do my own wiring runs of whatever length I need...

Hi All I am looking for some connectors to use when wiring Kato Unitrack power and points. Kato use a connector that is similar to but not quite the same as some others on the market, specifically the Mini Tamiya Kyosho Battery Connector. I have bought four "different" third-party brands of the mini Tamiya/Kyosho connector and none quite fit, the problem is the square part of the male plug is always to large for the female Kato plug. And I can't find a source of the genuine Kato plugs as I guess that they are not sold separately. Any suggestions, apart from sanding the plugs?

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I am using Kato Unitrack N Gauge and have about 25m running in a double-U layout; there are a mixture of Dapol and Bachmann/Farish locos and, after realising that I had posted this in the wrong forum, I also tested assorted Dapol locos and achieved the same result The turnout is a Kato #4 and the traffic is running FACING (not shouting...), I tried using several spare turnouts and the result was the same. I also used several "Y" turnouts and the result was the same. I have about eight other #4 turnouts where the same locos traverse them FACING with no problems. The section of track is level and the traffic all follows the curved path and is integrated into a curved section of track (similar to other locations). Eventually, I replaced the turnouts with a #6 and the locomotives now pass over it without fault. They also pass over two other sections that are identical but use #4 turnouts. I have a solution, but without clearly understanding the cause... as I noted, the #4 works perfectly in eight other locations, so... ?

I have some curved points and the front bogie on locomotive usually derails as it passes over them. Have replaced the points several times, but no improvement Should I consider adding weight on the bogie (somehow?) or a spring or...? Cheers

Direct copy of the email they sent...look at their proposed reasons for the cancellation...I had to email them as none of the reasons applied to me. This is an automatic notification to inform you that order number IOPA3256500 has been cancelled from our systems, and we will not attempt to process this again. The following items were in your order: "1 * Dapol ND208D Battle of Britain Class 4-6-2 un-rebuilt 34066 'Spitfire' in BR green with late crest @ £99.00 each http://www.hattons.co.uk/stockdetail.aspx?SID=59022 Reasons for cancellation include: Duplication of order on system Non-processing of card payment Customer request to cancel order If you still wish to order these items, you will need to place another order via our websites or over the telephone. Regards Hatton's Model Railways 17 Montague Road Widnes WA8 8FZ 0151 733 3655 http://www.hattons.co.uk Telephone lines manned Monday - Saturday 7:30am - 6pm Sun 9am-5pm Store open Monday - Sunday 9am - 5pm

Just received an email from them...I ordered it almost 4 years ago for £99, now I can order one for only £169.96 No thanks

Thanks...will give it a try

If you could possibly recall...that would help before I demolish the loco and then find that it is a large job Just need to understand how much isolation is required before I pull it to bits... Cheers

Perhaps a very broad question...on a steam locomotive hauled express, where was it placed? Last carriage, first (behind loco), second last (immediately before brake or GUV)...or...?

Hi Is there a fitting guide for wiring a DCC chip for this DCC-incompatible loco? Alternatively, can someone recommend a place to do such an installation? Cheers

Thanks everyone!

Hi All Please keep in mind that I am Australian, so the question may appear odd to you... I have a rake of "new" Farish Mk1s in SR green configured as FO/FO/.../CK/SK/SO/BSK and I also have an "older" RFO placed where the "..." is. All the carriages are SR green with no BR logo. I have just purchased a new Mk1 RMB which does have a BR logo. I was intending to substitute the better-detailed RMB for the RFO but now realise that I have (at least) two problems: 1. the logo - why do none of the other carriages have it? 2. RMB appears to be second class where the RFO is first class, so I would need to change the arrangement of the rake...perhaps placing the RMB after the CK? Cheers

It is the crank pin...and as it is well out of warranty, looks like a throw-away...cost to repair (may as well get both done, even the non-broken one) plus postage to/from Australia is almost 80% of purchase price... Any recommendations for a different manufacturer of a 9F in N that can take a DCC chip without complete disassembly and motor isolation shenanigans?

Thanks - sadly, it is far older than that...

My 9F, which has run for about 30 minutes since bought, came to a stop just now, the valve gear on the right hand side has, quite literally, fallen apart! The crank pin that holds it together detached from the wheel and there seems no way to reassemble it. Looking online, even Dapol doesn't answer questions about the same problem (see https://digest.Dapol.co.uk/forum/n-gauge-models/steam/9f-br-2-10-0/6680-9f-valve-gear) General sentiment seems to be "tough luck". So, any advances on "tough luck"? Recommendations for known repairs or just trash it?

That appears to be the one...but I would also need the coupler that attached to the underframe, if you have one?

Well, that is a pain They are somewhat expensive in Australia

I mean that the whole bogie with the wheels, coupler (its attached to the bogie) and pin have all - vanished. I have a carriage with nothing at one end! [EDIT] I see the coupler is attached to the underframe; I guess when the bogie departed, the coupler then just fell off

Somehow, I have lost the bogie/wheelset/couple from a Bachmann/Farish Mk1 carriage - 374-010B. Trying to find a replacement but Peters and others only seem to have the "old" Farish spares. Suggestions where I can get replacements for the new ones?

I can probably make do with 15 fewer...finding someone in Australia who can do the conversions at a reasonable price is the tricky part!

I have around 30 locos from the 70s/80s, the Poole era I guess. They all run fine on DC and the effort of converting them all to DCC is probably not worth the effort. I have used eBay to sell around ten of them, I have bought the "new" Bachmann/Farish or Dapol versions, but what about the remainder? They are models that either don't have a DCC version planned or it is some way off in the distance...they have pizza-cutter wheels but still run nicely. However, I have built a layout that is DCC so they won't get a run unless I convert them. I made two attempts at conversion using DigiHat on tank locomotives but found the operation to be unsuccessful...almost certainly lack of skill on my part. So, any suggestions?