Mr Grumpy

Thanks Steve, But the handrails I would need to remove are separately fitted to the body rather than moulded rails. Richard

Hi.... looking for help on the removal of Hornby plastic handrails from a shark (or similar) for a complete re-spray. I don’t have the model to hand, I’m weighing up on weather to purchase, which may depend on the ability to remove the handrails. Any advice greatly appreciated:-) Thanks, Richard

Thanks chaps for more useful and practical advice :-) The proposed layout would take up what is left of the garage as a chunk has been stolen to create a utility room, so absolutely no room to walk around the perimeter of the boards. My last layout had a baseboard height of 1230mm (approx 4’) so I could sit on my favourite chair and look across the tracks with the trains at eye level. I soon discovered this was less than ideal for shunting operations. However, if I re-hang the entrance door and keep the boards to the same height as before (the fixings are still in place along one wall) I could reluctantly concede to duck under rather than build the lifting section as I know my carpentry skills would not be up to the job of such fine tolerances. Probably irritate me and get a sore head and back though :-)

Hi Zomboid, another interesting proposal:-) I imagine that is a double slip at the foot of the reverse loop? I had forgotten what fun can be had from designing layouts!! My last 0 gauge layout was end to end and to be honest, it didn’t hold my interest for long. I much preferred building kits. This time round, I’ll be happy to watch the trains pass by and then have some interaction at the station after a few laps. My eye sight isn’t what it was, so the stock will all be RTR. I’m handy with the airbrush and certainly enjoy weathering stock, just can’t build it any more :-(

Hi Teabag/Harlequin, I have partially converted my garage, so the up and over door no longer opens, but is closed off with an insulated stud wall. The door into the room is where the lifting section is located, and opens into the room. I have the option to re-hang the door or fit a sliding one. So, onto the next incarnation of the plan..... I have juggled the station and the parcel shed is approached from both rear lines, simplifying shunting. I have removed the two sidings at the front right of the plan and added the straight line which could be used as a cassette enabling a rake of wagons to be replaced with less handling.

Thanks Chris, that’s a good suggestion. Also getting shot of the right hand sidings will narrow the boards and make the parcel depot less of a stretch :-)

If the station level was raised, the incline would begin following the second curved points, and only by 15mm or approx 1/2”. Therefore the parcels depot would be so treated. If the outer platform has a wall, I doubt I would bother with the incline. Just realised the crossover is reversed to how I intended :-) At present I have no idea on the use of those sidings, I could even leave them out. Nice looking layout Nearholmer...takes me back a bit :-) I’ll check out the parcels bay later. I’m just having a play with TP15 at the moment....

I have added the crossover and ‘suggested’ the station platform isn’t serving the main line. If I used this option, I would raise the station by 15mm just to give a bit of separation and add a wall along the platform edge. The return loop is a necessity to return loco hauled stock in to the terminus so will be staying. This is going to be a long term build, mainly in the Autumn/Winter season when I can’t play outside :-)

Hi Zomboid, I’m using the free version of Railmodeller Express at present. I shall see if I can export to photos :-)

Here's my attempt at adding storage for the 4TC and thumper, hopefully leaving enough room for me to occasionally squeeze in! Sorry for the screen shot....I'm out of paper to print it out.

Very useful advice guys...thanks! I’ll investigate adding the two sidings inside the return loop, but it will be a squeeze as I need the space to reach the sidings storage loops for maintenance etc. I foresee a snug fit! I also agree with adding the release crossover, I can’t think why I left it out in the first place. Once I have dabbled with the plan, I’ll pop it on for further comment. Kadees will be my weapon of choice, I have noticed the tension lock problems with differing heights and designs. I used Kadees with a ‘step’ on some of my 1:20.3 stock to overcome coupling height disparity and they work very well.

I will definitely be using electofrog points Also, I bonded all the rails on my previous 0 gauge layout, I may need stronger specs this time round :-)

Thanks for sharing your experience with using these points. It has made me feel a tad more confident to use them. The 33/1 will be propelling the 4TC set through the points on exiting the bay, and depending on which end the motor bogie is on the thumper, it could be propelling its coach through them too. The sidings, to the right of the station will be parallel and probably serve some kind of distribution centre, or ‘Red Star’ parcels. The Foster Yeoman and civil engineers trains will just circle the layout without any on screen shunting. I really want to run double headed 33/0s on the Southampton Freightliner too. In theory, the trains will circle several times, use the return loop to return as ‘empties’ then removed and different trains placed in the loops.

After many years of 16mm live steam, then 0 gauge, mainly kit building, my attention was drawn back to the great outdoors with 1:20.3 narrow gauge. I have enjoyed building the layout but find boredom has set in during rainy days and long evenings. To reduce the boredom I have taken the plunge and decided to build a 00 gauge layout of 11' x 7'6" in the garage. I have hundreds of photos from the early 80's to the 90's and I will be trying to recreate this era. I will be running 33/1s with 4TC stock, thumpers and class 47 and 50 NSE stock. Freight will be 'passing' trains with a 59, possibly 56's and engineering trains with dutch 37's and 33's. Control will be DCC and Tortoise point motors as used on my 0 gauge layout. As for the layout, I have adapted a C.J.Freezer layout from Track Plans, TP2. (I think this edition is around 16 years old). So...to my query... I have noticed some modellers have experienced problems when using Peco code 75 curved points. My layout will have 3 in a row on the station throat and a couple in the hidden sidings. I honestly can't remember the last time I experienced a derailment on any of my layouts, indoors or outside, so I'm a tad concerned about using the points. The points will have a decent radius curve feeding in and out. I really can't fit large radius points in to the station throat, if I can't use the curved points, I will need to start again. I would be interested to hear if the issues have been resolved or if the problems were down to track laying? Thanks! Edit: I forgot to include the layout plan....

Thanks guys! I have taken a look at the Zimo diagram, this time with my reading glasses! I’m sure I can now give it a go.

Hi Nigel, thanks for the tip. However, as the decoder only has one 5V terminal, how would I use the F0 function for front and rear lights. And there are also the separate cab and brake house lights to consider. Richard.

I'm installing a Zimo MX699KS decoder into a large scale locomotive, which has 5v lamps which I intend to keep (for the time being) The loco runs at 19v and I wondered which is the most effective way to drop the voltage for the lamps? I have a selection of 1000 and 2000 ohm resistors, but wondered if there is a better way of voltage reduction. There are head/tail lights and a separate cab and 'brakeman's hut (on the tender) light. As well as the full voltage outputs, the decoder has one 5v and one 10v output. Any help appreciated!

Hi I have a question regarding the coasting sound for steam locos using the Zimo 699KS large scale decoder. I have three locos and when decelerating, the sound drops off to almost silent before picking up again after several seconds. I believe this is to simulate steam being shut off. Am I able to increase the sound when steam is ‘shut off’? Also, the decoders have the ‘coasting’ option and one of the decoders gives a satisfying coupling rod clanking sound, where as the other two are almost silent. I wonder if this is an embedded sound which can be activated by a change of CV(s) I don’t have access to any computer software, all will need to be achieved on my Lenz handset. Any help most appreciated! Thanks!

Hi John, Not the JLTRT variety, but an etched brass WEP kit. I thought I would add the photos to show how I represented the electrical control gear. Try CPL couplings, much easier :-)

Correct! I couldn’t believe the transformation, I was sceptical that there would be any improvement. I will be fitting one to my 7400 (Youchoos 6400, but should sound similar)

After another look through the instructions, the problem is now sorted. CV9=51 CV56=133

I recently replaced my ESU decoder for a Zimo 645R decoder in my MOK 1400. The sound is excellent and the drive very smooth. However, the Moxon motor was very quiet with the ESU, but ‘growls’ at low speed with the Zimo. I understand I may be able to rectify this by adjusting certain CVs. I don’t have access to any techie equipment, just my Lenz handset, programming track and not much experience! Please could someone give me a heads up on a reasonably straightforward way to adjust the necessary CVs to a setting that may alleviate the noise? From the instructions it looks like there may be several I could adjust which then require adjusting others etc. Thanks!

No probs Neil, I appreciate any advice I can get at present :-) It would be handy to stand a coach next to the loco and get a feel for it. Perhaps I’m being a tad pedantic lol!!

Hi, After many years away, I have come back to garden railways. My previous line was run with 16mm coal and gas fired locos. I always wanted a K28 so couldn’t resist when one came up. My question is this: My K28 is built to 1:22.5. I really like the Accucraft Jackson Sharp coaches, but they are built to 1:20.3. Is the ratio significantly different to look totally wrong or will they look ok? I seem to remember back in the day people mixed 16mm and G scale quite happily? Thanks Richard

The grumpy one........