bluestag

6 hours ago, DCB said:

 

Sounds to me like the chassis was running too stiffly and needed running in.   I had massive problems with a Comet chassis for a 28XX which ate motors (since flogged on eBay) Maybe tow it around the test track for an hour or so before fitting a motor?

No, I don't think so.    The coupling rods were not in place, and the smoke was only for a second or two while the gears were in place, and continued after the worm wheel was removed and the motor was running without a load.    Nah, it's the oil.

Is there a 1624 or 1628 with 2mm shafts on the market?   I can't find one.

It's alive!   It's alive!

without coupling rods or weight, rigid chassis (the front axle has vertical movement) and it runs.   With decoder and sound.  Still need to take a small video to fit RM's standards.

I did oil it, drat.   I doubt it is possible to find replacements.   I may take it apart and degrease the brushes and commutator, but the springs and brushes must be TINY.

Hello,

I'm a week into building my newly acquired LNWR Precedent.   Had it running with test leads yesterday, but not with side rods yet.   Waiting for Premier on those.  The ones in the kit are hopeless.   I did not get a set of instructions.   Does anyone have a set?

STILL need the instructions.   A chap on another board thought he had a set, as he has the kit as well, but he does not.   Now that is two of us needing instructions.

Well, the wheels came in today. I had cut spacers at 26.35mm, and tacked together the chassis. The opening for the front sprung hornguides needed opening up by about 3mm upward. The front axle has about half a mm in movement up and some down. The chassis COULD have been wider, but I don't think the plunger pickups would have fit. It is not bad, the front axle has plenty of movement. Possibly too much. It is all a compromise.
 

Hey Guys,

I smoked one of my last Mashima 1833's.   It was new.    It had run on a tenth of an amp or a bit less, at 12v, free running.

Installed it in the chassis, and it did not like it.    It drew .4 amps and smoked.   I shut it off quickly, removed it from the chassis and set it up to run without a load again.   It still drew .4 amp and smoked.   I have one other 1833, which I installled, and which ran the driver at a tenth of an amp at 6v.

Any idea what the heck happened to my motor?

And what is a good replacement?   I know Cannon makes a similar sized motor, but not if the screw holes are the same.   Roxy offers a replacement.   Is it essentially as good as a Mashima?

Kevin

Simond,

That went way over my head.   I'm relying on a 0-6-0 of similar length in setting the spacers at 26.35.   The extra tenth is just how they turned out.

Kevin

7 hours ago, Gordon A said:

Decide what minimum radius curves you wish your loco to negotiate, then work back from that to calculate how much side play you will need.

I have NO IDEA how to do that.   I am running 6' curves.

I have 6' curves, although the loco must get around a 5'10" curve on my mate's layout.

Simon,

Yes, thanks.    Wider is better, up until the loco won't go around a curve.    This is a 2-4-0.   The two driving wheels will have next to nil sideplay, and the leading carrying wheel will have enough to get it around a curve.

I'm inclined to 26.25mm, as that is what my coal engine has, and it never hesitates on curves.   That and it has the same fixed wheelbase of a Jumbo.   But wider would benefit the cab interior.    With the Slater's wheels having a 29mm back to back, and my proposal to use a Slater's sprung hornguide on the front axle, I'll have about 2.5mm sideplay, or a bit less on the front axle.   Does that sound like a lot?

Kevin

What gets a Yank doing MR in 10 ga?   Or are you a Brit?

I run LNWR in 7mm, but am a Yank.   In CA.

I recently failed my Brit test by not knowing the date of the Gunpowder Plot.   My Brit friends were horrified by my ignorance.    I know it happened, but when was inconsequential to me.

Oh well.   Much work to do!

Hey guys,

I am assessing my new LNWR 2-4-0 Precedent (Jumbo) kit in 7mm.

It is an old Modeller's World kit.    And like the two before it, it has the chassis at a crazy wide, near scale, width.   The frame spacers and the frames added together would come out to be 1.170" wide.  Sorry, work that out for mm if you must, I'm a yank.    My special tank, a very old kit with milled frames, is 1.015 thou wide.   It has a wheelbase similar to the Precedent, and gets around 6' curves fine.   And my newly acquired Zero Zephyr 2-4-0,, with a sophisticated chassis, is .996".    It is a bit shorter than the Precedent.   A recent product of Gladiator, the coal engine, is 1.034" wide.    It is about as long as a Precedent.   It has never picked a point.

That is about 3mm, or an 1/8th of an inch, wider than the three working locos cited.

Does anyone have a rule of thumb to work with?    I am going to set the two driving axles rigid in the frames, and spring the front axle.    The motor is going on the forward driver.   There is not room under the cab floor for a gear.

Way open for advice.

Kevin

Finally I have taken possession of the LNWR Precedent (Jumbo).    The kit looks pretty complete.  Enough that I ordered the wheels today.

I STILL need instructions.    If you have a set for the Modeller's World or Mercian kit that you could zap across the ether to me, I'd be oh so appreciative.  

Kevin

And now it looks like Slaters has nearly the right wheel.   Their wheel for the GC Director's class is in fact a pin on spoke, not between spokes.   Meaning that it is only really wrong in the throw is 13 inch rather than 12.

Anybody got those instructions?

Kevin

Calborne looks good.   Nicely weathered.   A propitious start in 7mm.   Some purchases can turn out to the stinkers, I can say with painful experience.

Will you be running digital?    I like digital.

Looks like Walsall has a cast iron driver that is very close.   Spokes, pin, diameter all correct.   Throw slightly long.   Just need to suck up and pay the piper, I suppose.

Hey guys,

A report from Burbank: I am in negotiation with a Brit who has a Modeller's World LNWR Jumbo 2-4-0 kit to sell.   I need one for my collection.   I'm not sure he has the instructions.   Anyone have a set to scan?

And he has no wheels.    Slaters, oddly, does not list this wheel: 6' 9" pin on spoke, 12" throw, 20 spoke.   They have a Great Central wheel at 6' 9", 20 spokes, but the pin between the spokes and at 13" throw.   I suppose if I must compromise, I must.   Pity the Mercian web site is gone, or I'd see what they used on their display model.   And I'd ask them for a set of instructions.

Is there another maker of wheels who might have it?

Kevin

I see you run Dinghams.   How do you like them?    I find mine get out of alignment if packed poorly in a box.   My chums all run three links.   Madness.

Oh, I think it a terrible shame not to have it running!   Chuck the old motor and put in the best current motor and box that you can justify!   It would be a hoot to see it running.

Hey Guys,

I just gave a chum a kit for a GWR Lorit.   A low floor wagon.   It has a long wheelbase, and looks to be designed to build up rigid.   Which to me looks to be a disaster.

I'm looking for some etched rocking inside bearing carriers.   Rocking W irons won't work, the bearings are carried on the frame of the wagon, and besides the wheels are smaller than standard.   Probably 2' 8".

I suppose I could scratch build something for him, but would prefer something ready to use.

Anybody?

Kevin

On 14/06/2023 at 01:00, Jeremy Cumberland said:

Are your switches wired together in some way, so you can't configure each individual switch as you want?

One spdt on each is tied together, with the plus and minus of the half wave dc feeding the tortoises.   That leaves four spdt switches that are not committed yet to any purpose.   So for the signal levers, I can have the signal wire and the return on a spst.   Easy peasy.

2 hours ago, Grovenor said:

Ray,

I think you are adding confusion here, Bluestag has clearly described his switches, (they sound like typical telephone switchboard items) and that they comprise a stack of SPDT contacts. Whilst these types of switches did occasionally have make before break contact sets it doesn't matter if they are being used as SPST to operate servo drivers such as Megapoints.

 

What he said.

2 hours ago, Grovenor said:

And there are a number of sellers of suitable servo mounts for this application,

Wizard models/MSE for one and Dingo mounts for another.

I like the dingo.   Compact, and they have a triple servo mount, as I need a triple arm signal.