bluestag

58 minutes ago, Longhaireddavid said:

Surely one Arduino could control a few servo/ signals with a bounce for each arm built it?

I likely will use a MegaPoints product.   They have a twelve channel all singing all dancing board for reasonable money, that does not require programing as such.

DCB.

I don't have time for that sort of building.   Apparently servos have been proven.  And when driven by proper circuitry, run slow enough.   I am trying to get a finished layout while I still can.   And I have a three arm bracket to build.   I am told I can get the mechanism under the signal such that I can build it on the bench, and drop it into a hole in the layout, rather than crawling under the layout.   Going under the layout should have ended a decade ago.

Kevin

Well, despite the rare instance of prototype leavers not being binary, MY switches are.   As I bought them, they had two wafers with a total of 13 spdt switches on them.   What in heavens name they were for, don't ask me.    I take the outer wafer off and have five spdt switches in the end.    To control Tortoise switch machines only requires one.   Two common wires carrying either side of half wave DC, and a wire to run to the Tortoise, which gets a common return back to the transformer.  

Now I have learned that one spst is all that is necessary for controlling servos.  A common wire and one more wire per servo.   Good.   Few wires is good.

Soon (in the larger scheme of things, say a year to build the signals) I'll have some red levers in the frame as well.

I have seen mechanical interlocking on a layout, and it looked attractive.   And time consuming.   I have PLENTY of other modelling projects, I decided to do without.

Thanks guys.   Yes, there is a solution to drive servos with a board that allows an on-off.   No, there is not center off, just as there is no center position for a prototypical signal lever.

Hey guys,

I'm gearing up to build a few semaphores for the layout.    I intend to control them with the same lever switches (they mimic prototype levers) which are fitted with a wafer, which has five sets of single pole double throw switches on them.   The turnouts are driven by tortoises.   They use one set of switches, which feed either positive or negative half wave DC to the tortoises.   I will only consider a solution that uses the same switches.    But they could be wired to be a reversing switch, ie feed in full wave DC and  reverse the positive and negative with a throw on the switch.   There is no turning these off.   They are on-on.   Does anyone make a driver for solenoids that will respond to positive/negative messages in either half wave or full wave DC?   Constantly on?  Or must I use tortoises?   With a Rube Goldberg mechanism?

A photo of my frame:

On 05/06/2023 at 22:50, Adrian Stevenson said:

They are from Modelu. They are 3D prints of real people.

 

Not cheap at £7.50 each, but I got a great deal on mine. They often have sales with 15% off. Usual disclaimer applies.

 

Cheers, Ade.

The pity is that all the loco crews (at least for my period of 1900) seem to be for right hand drive locos.   Mine are LNWR, and are left hand drive.    A driver would be leaning on his left arm and reaching for the regulator with his right.

Sorry if I missed it, but where did the figures come from?   Nice paint job, too.

7 minutes ago, stanb said:

 

 

lol, some people are what we call hoarders out here..

 

anyway back to my dilema.. I've tested most  of the operational stock on peco set track, most of the commercial RTR gets around the curves, the smaller 6 coupled too, and theres no buffer lock on the 4 wheelers hence the thought of doing an industrial siding. There only half a dozen or so carriages from mixed periods so passenger stock isnt a major factor, and given  the range of bigo locos then maybe a small mpd would be an idea... ie the king(s) and duchess came in off specials... now will i get them around a 5' curve 🤭

We call them hoarders as well.   Jim was president of the club.   Funny thing is?   I don't know what an mpd is....

10 hours ago, stanb said:

Ya, discipline is something my father lacked - having lived in Harrogate in the early 50's  I can understand him getting the WD, 9f, A3 ( x3, 2 in kit form) , but 2 Kings? he wasn't even a GWR man ! Then there's the half a dozen or so Atlas diesels.. and a lovely 1:48 Victorian railways R class....and.. The atlas's probably will get sold to fund something else, not sure about the R though, even if the A3 next to it makes it look diminutive.. he was also pretty clumsy  (alcohol does  to you) so I have a lot of repair work ahead of me....

 

Anyway I can see you have sorted yourself well, Nothing wrong with the LNWR.....

My operating group had a member, since passed.   Jim had NO discipline.   He was in all scales, British and American.   Marklin.   LGB.   His garage and sitting room were simply crushed with trains and stuff.    Including four new Peco 7mm points and 16 yards of flex track.   My pals in the group decided I'd build a layout in my garage that they had never seen.  It also was crammed with junk.   Including a car.   One of them tore up his layout, and gave me points and flex, another abandoned his, I got the points and tortoises.    I built the layout (two years ago) in about four months.   American L Girder construction goes quickly.  And I have moved pretty quickly on building locos and passenger stock.    I endorse the idea of selling off anything that does not appeal to you.   Nothing wrong with owning a KIng, I suppose.   Even if it is Greasy Wet and Rusty.    But it will look huge on your layout.    The largest loco I have is a LNWR A Class 0-8-0.   It is big by my standards, but when my chums come around to operate, their BR Standards and Diesels tower over it.

15 hours ago, stanb said:

yup, its definitely jumping in the deep end, but there's a nice collection to play with. At this stage no definite layout plans, although I do have a room for a smallish layout - 12X15' so toying with the idea of an industrial sidings or a MPD - .. or both.. trouble is with the former I cant really justify a A3, V2, Duchess or king!! ( My father tended to collect as per availability rather than to any specific theme) . Outside is a possiblity ,since I am on a small acreage, but time will tell...

Yes, a branch limits your choice of locos and stock.   I live with it.   Mine is 17' by 19' with a flap of 3 1/2' that folds up at the long end.   In the garage.   A bit dirty.   LNWR.    Circa 1900.   The early date also limits the size of the locos and stock that get to run on it.   A little disciple is a good thing.

Good fun, starting with a collection of locos and stock.   Jump on in, the water is fine.   Do you have space indoors for a layout, or will you be building a garden railway?

Looking for advice on colours.   The inside of the cab should perhaps be "Indian red"; I've applied Humbrol rust.   And the bufferbeam is to be red.    Here it is Humbrol 174.

One coat of each,    They will be a little denser after a second coat.

Opinions?

Waiting on some circles for the splashers, and more corners, from Fox.   In the meantime, I've lined one side of the coal bunker and set it on the foot plate.    Trying to decide if to line the valance.   There is not room for the grey/cream line AND the red line.   Decades ago I read the advice that if a thing is too small to model, leave it off.   Or do I apply the grey/cream and leave off the red?

The spashers will be ticklish.   There is a red arc with a red horizontal line below, joined by a very small radius red curve, that will need to be brushed in.   That is eight opportunities to goof it up.

And what color to paint the bufferbeams?   I have a scarlet and a crimson from Humbrol, and have not chosen between them.   Then there is the "Indian red" of the interior of the cab.   Possibly Humbrol rust.

Making progress.   It seems that the surface need not be utterly glass smooth.   The Fox Transfers are adhering nicely to the slightly grainy surface.

Now I gotta work out what varnish to use.     I have some gloss (matching sheen to the black paint) lacquer varnish, but it attacked the lining.   Micro Sol make a product called Micro Sheen.   A low sheen water based varnish harmless to decals.   But how durable is it?

2 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

You can flatten a finish using 2000 grade wet and dry (which is virtually just rough paper) then polish it up with a hint of brasso or similar 

I don't think it will be necessary.    I got some transfers on today, successfully I think.

23 minutes ago, Type 2 said:

Without being critical, the finish looks quite grainy (may just be the photograph) so a good gloss varnish over the areas to be decaled would be beneficial

Don't worry about being critical.  It was me that asked.   It was painted with a spray bomb.   I worry about building up too much finish.

6 hours ago, Type 2 said:

Make sure you have a good gloss surface to apply the lining then follow the Fox instructions on application - don't attempt to pull the decal off the backing paper, float it off with a water filled brush in as near the final position as possible.  Remove excess water with the edge of a paper towel and use a blunted cocktail stick to nudge the decals into the final position then roll a cotton bud along the length of the decal to expel any other water and air.

 

You may find it easier to cut the lining to more manageable lengths then but them up to each other on the model.

 

Finally seal with a good quality varnish, with you being in the states you should have easy access to the Vallejo range of sprays, Winsor and Newton Galleria range (can be applied very well with a brush) or even Pledge Revive It floor polish (formally Johnsons Klear), again can be applied by brush and dries completely level.

 

Above all, take your time!!!

Yes, I do expect this to take quite a while.   I have seen the advice before about the gloss finish.  Looking at the photo, do you think it is gloss enough?

Hey guys,

I'm trying to gear up for lining a LNWR Special Tank (saddle tank) using Fox Transfers.    I've never worked with Fox transfers.   They are waterslides, I know that much about them.    And Fox specifies a pair of British available varnishes to top them with.   I'm in the USA.   I can't get paints from Britain.   Anyone know what makes a successful varnish for Fox that won't destroy them?   I will need to experiment....Advice for how to apply the bally things would be appreciated.

The chopper is noteworthy in that it seems most of the details are fixed with solder, including the w/m.   I don't have the knack.   I use epoxy and super glue....

8 hours ago, Argos said:

 

Ah! so you won it!

I did bid on it but not with any seriousness given my lack of 7mm modelling of late, so missed it by about a tenner.

It meant I had money to spend on a more relevant project to my current modelling so all worked out.

 

I'm glad it turned out to be a good one.

 

Angus

Yes, it is a nice model, no longer available, at a reasonable price.   Should have thought some day I'd go up against you....

Oh.   The 5'6" tank?    It was on the sidelines for a long time.

I got the chopper tank running with a decoder, and having a day to play but no real work for the chopper tank, I built a box for it.    And while I had the table saw out and was making a mess, I cut enough ply for four boxes.   And made one for the 5'6" tank.

Which got me moving on putting in a decoder and speaker.    The motor responds better.   But pickup is still dodgy.   I weighed it down to 24oz.  I am convinced the front wheels hang up on the footplate and lift the drivers.    The wheels seem to be a correct 3'9".    I am inclined to get four 3'7" wheels and see if I can see a difference.   Doubt it.   But perhaps it will free up the front carrying wheel.    I cut slots in the footplate for the rear wheels, in the coal bunker, but of course can't do the same up front.

This one is a pig compared to the chopper, but not as bad as it could be.

Onward and upward.

New to the menagerie!    A Zero Zephyrs LNWR Chopper tank.    Bought off ebay for a reasonable price.    Well built to this point.    About 96% finished.    Runs OK, but is noisy.     The worm is larger than typical, or what Ultrascale offers in nylon.   Nylon worms are the best!   Quiet.   I have an email in to them to see if they can custom cut me a replacement.

The kit has designed in compensation.   Which is good.    It was 18oz when I got it, and could barely shift three of my inside bearing six wheelers.   I want it to handle five.   I got it up to 24oz, and it seems happy.  

It is only slightly wrong for my branch.   In the era I model, most had been rebuilt as 2-4-2Ts, but none was on offer on ebay, so I bought this one.    I have recklessly bought a few duds, but this one is a winner.   It is built as well or better than anything I build.   So it will fit right in.

Fitting a decoder and speaker was not overly difficult, although the speaker is on the small side.    Need to turn the volume up a bit.

This is going to look very much the part pulling my six wheelers!

Gotta finish my fiddle yard.   So much to do.

I had a Director back when I did N gauge.    It was a very nice model.   Long gone.  I like yours!

Regarding the connectivity of Peco points.   I have about 15 on my layout.   They all have additional jumpers soldered to them.   None rely on pressing against the running rails for juice.    Most were inherited.   All have the wires joining the frog to the closure rails cut.    The frog is separately switched at the tortoise switch motor.    The closure rails have a jumper to the adjacent running rail.   LIkewise the points, right at the place closest to the closure rails.     Mostly with success.    I had one older point that had the frog isolate one rail from the other, and needed a supplemental dropper soldered on.    They seem to work well.   On one or two occasions, the switches in the tortoise (also repurposed) have failed, and it was necessary to use the other set of switches on the tortoise.    Which is easy enough.    I had miles and miles of 20ga ribbon wire.   I used an eight wire length about a foot long, soldered to all the points on the tortoise, and running to an eight terminal terminal block.   All the wires under my layout end in a forked crimp on connector.   Over 300 of them.   There was no way I was going to work with a soldering iron and solder overhead.    (My baseboards cannot be inverted).

It had a hesitation on the right side.   I violated all the rules and opened up the coupling pin holes slightly, a little at a time, until it behaved.   Now I have to question my need for compensation or springing.   Because even though it is rigid and only four pickups, it seems to run OK.   Possibly I'll turn my attention to the body and get it painted.   And heaven help me, lined.   Plenty to do.   I want it it pulling coaches soon.