Halton Boy

Hello everyone I like June's railway plan, so I have made a plan that is based on hers. I did not like yard B so I have moved it. I have added a kick back siding to the warehouse area. This is my plan: Please could you tell me if I have got the signalling correct. Thank you for your help. Ken

Thank you Michael I will ask June if that is where she got the name from. Ken

Hello everyone Thank you Chris. Lever 12 would normally be set pulled in the frame, which would set the trap points. Here is a layout plan which shows the shunting of the coal yard: Can an engine take a full coal wagon from Union Mills to line A. Then back into the coal siding and pick up the empty coal wagon. The engine would reverse the wagons over point 12 and leave the empty wagon between point 12 and 10. The engine would back the full coal wagon into the coal yard. Then shunt the empty coal wagon to Union Mills. Does that sound correct? Thank you for your help. Ken

Hello everyone We have a name for the junction, Union Junction, and the warehouses Union Mills. I do not know why. I promised June that I would make a framed signal box diagram for her to put on the wall. Here is the latest plan: The layout is 00 gauge and the signal box is quite small. The idea is to place the signals correctly and produce a signal box diagram that is correct. Passenger trains from line A run into the halt at C. They then run out to line B. Passenger trains from line B run into the halt at C. They then run out to line A. There is a railcar for this. Goods trains run from line A to Union Mills. They also shunt the yard via point 12. Goods trains run from line B to Union Mills. They shunt the Mills then travel to line A. Line A connects to the main line. Line B is a branch terminus. I am not sure if the diagram is correct. Thank you for your help. Ken

Hello everyone I have re drawn the plan: On the layout the crossing gates are made of brass, but I think they are left open for the railway. Lever 22 should be brown. I have put in the lever frame. It looks like the numbering is wrong. There is a big gap between 4 and 14. Do I need to add a lever for each trap point? I like the idea of gluing bent rail to the sleepers to model a trap point. I think I am getting confused as I used Coombe Junction to work out where to put the signals. As far as I know this not Coombe Junction. The layout does not have a name. It looks a bit like it. I should number everything as per the plan and forget about Coombe Junction. Thank you for help. Ken

Hello everyone This is a lot of useful information. I will study what you have said. Thank you for your help. Ken

Hello everyone Thank you for your replies. The engines that he has in his collection are all steam GWR and LMS and one GWR railcar. There is no platform by the warehouses. Passenger services terminate at the halt. I assumed it was goods only from the bridge to the warehouses. The rest of the line is passenger trains. I thought that it was a ground frame but it may be a small signal box. The lady has two goods signals so I put them where I thought they would go. I think the reason there is no trap point is because of the curved rail. If there was more room it could be put into the middle of the curve. I have remade the plan inline with your answers: I have added the trap points to the plan, but we cannot change the track. June wants yard B to be a small local coal yard. Shunting yard B will be awkward. Would the train travel to the warehouses, run around the wagons , then go back up the track and reverse into the yard? I do not know if the numbering of the signals and points are correct? Thank you for your help. Ken

Hello Everyone Here is more information on the layout: My friend lives in Birmingham so I do not have any photos of the layout. The track is complete with ballast and the buildings are complete. There is no static grass or trees etc. The roads, bridge and yard are in place. The signals will not be operational. The lady wants to fit the painted signals in place and complete all the scenic work. Thank you for your help. Ken

Hello everyone I am helping my friend June with her late husbands layout. The layout in the garage is mostly complete except for the signals which he made from brass and are unpainted. Here is a plan of the layout: The other night I was watching a You Tube video of a drivers eye view of the Looe to Coombe Junction line. The layout above looks very similar. I have added signals to the plan based on the diagram for Coombe Junction. On the plan 4 and 18 are detection bars. Signals 1 and 21 are goods siding signals. We have two of them. We have more signals than needed to signal the layout based on the plan above. The problem is at position A, point number 17 and yard position B. How would this point be signaled and operated. Thank you for your help. Ken

Thank you for your reply. As you say if done correctly a shed can work well. Security is an issue in rural Oxfordshire. I will need to address that. I would have to keep anything of value in the house. Ken

Thank you Andrew Ken

Hello everyone I understand what you are saying. The shed has to be done correctly. I am not a carpenter so I will need to purchase a building that is suitable. I realise now that it will be expensive for the base and the building. I can wire the shed and do the insulation myself. It was not until I asked the question on here that I realised all that was required. I will price everything up and consider other options like extending the garage. Thank you all for your help. Ken

Hi everyone I only read part of the post on log cabins as I did not think this was about sheds. I have looked at more sheds and information. I think that a large shed would need a concrete base. One of my near neighbours runs a concrete pumping company. The roof needs to have a stronger covering than roof felt. Insulation, heating and ventilation would be needed. I am an electrician so the mains supply would not be a problem. O gauge is a pain because of the size required. Maybe a shed for the fiddle yard with a garden railway is the answer. I have a tool shed by Tiger Sheds and it is only small with no windows. I partly insulated it with kingspan. Everything has stayed dry and not rusty. I will keep looking, but when you buy a shed with all the things you need then the price soon goes up. There is also the question of security. Thank you for your help. Ken

Hello everyone I have been looking at using a garden shed to house a model railway. To fall under the rule of permitted development the shed must not be more than 3mtrs x 5mtrs (9.8' x 16'). The height must not be greater than 2.5mtrs (8'). The shed must not cover more than half the garden which includes any existing outdoor buildings. 3mtrs x 5mtrs is not that big for an O gauge layout. Will a garden shed be suitable for a model railway in this country? Will damp be a problem? The only company that I can find that supplies sheds for model railways is Crane Garden Buildings. A large shed is very expensive so I would like to know if it would be suitable. I have seen people on you tube saying that sheds are not suitable for workshops because everything will go rusty unless there is full time heating and ventilation. Does anyone have experience of using a shed for a railway? Thank you for your help Ken

Hi John Thank you for telling me about evergreen. I have found suppliers of evergreen in the UK. I will be watching lots of You Tube video's on building with styrene. Ken