Simond

if I wanted one, which I don’t, I think I’d be looking at Premier Components for a chassis, motion & motor. I’ve not looked at the wheels, but ideally you’d want to re-use them as they’re nicely painted.

Hi, I have only just discovered your thread, and am much impressed with your model. It’s a shame I didn’t know earlier, as in 2015, my wife & I surveyed the shed at Aberystwyth, so I could build a 7mm model. There are quite a few photos on my Porth Dinllaen thread, linky thingy below, I hope you enjoy! the reason for finding you was Steve Fay’s thread with your 3DP coal tubs and the “drawbridge”. Steve kindly pointed me in your direction! I’ll drop you a pm, if you’d be kind enough to print a few tubs, and a pair of drawbridges, that would be really helpful! cheers Simon

It’s a detail in the theatre that is the model railway. It’s visible when the loco is stopped, and could be anywhere from full ahead to full reverse, or in the middle, at that point. It’s going to be somewhere in the forward part of the sector when going forward and vice versa, but unless you have your eye at cab level, you’re never going to see it as the train rolls past. I think some of mine are in full gear, some in mid, I can’t remember building one in reverse, I have seen 0 gauge models (on here or WT probably) where the full valve gear works including the reverser, and where the valve gear is actuated from forward to reverse by a servo controlled by the DCC. I have huge respect for the guys that can, and actually want to, do that kind of stuff. My view is Don’t worry about it, The regulator doesn’t move either!

Better than wrong fifty % of the time! Let’s call it “drifting steam”…

I have no knowledge of the matter, but MissP's suggestion makes sense. I'd expect being subject to (quite a lot of) steam on a regular basis would keep them pretty clean. There won't be any birds's nests in there! The crew look like they're waiting for something, or having a breather. I don't think they look like the train is going. Is the driver leaning against the back, or standing clear. I imagine if he's not actually driving, he'd be leaning or resting on something, or looking out, like the fireman. Then again, when the loco is going past, you probably won't be able to tell more than "there's a crew in there".

Sorry, Ade, still looks wrong. Pushing the lever down would pull the brakes off. I suspect this is the side that the cams go on, and the straight lever goes on the other side. From a post I put on WT a wee while back - hope it helps atb Simon The lever is pushed (and pinned) down to apply brakes. There is a dog clutch on one side (which is concentric with the shaft and all but invisible) and a reversing clutch on the other. Either lever can be pushed down to rotate the cross shaft and apply the brakes, whilst the other is hooked up (brakes off). this site has some very useful drawings, Railway Clearing House wagons https://www.cs.rhul.ac.uk/~adrian/steam/RCHWagons/index.html http://www.cs.rhul.ac.uk/~adrian/steam/RCHWagons/images/rch1009.PDF

Up to Padd today, MissD returning to Uni, MasterD & GF joined us for lunch. Unfortunate mis-booking by MrsD resulted in a less-than-average meal, but the company was good. MissD quite encouraged by my suggestion that a large silicone dog feeding mat might find its way onto her bedroom desk, but only when I added that it was likely to be joined by an Elegoo resin printer. She is now researching alternatives to ensure I don’t make a bad purchase decision. Excellent to be able to delegate such matters to a competent advisor.

Very topical! Outstanding modelling as always, Mikkel, thanks for sharing

Looks very nice!

Steve, pleased to hear that some progress has been made, in both tracking down some of the stolen items, and in replacement too. I do hope the Police take the matter seriously, and thoroughly follow up. please pass the Folkestone guys’ kind regards to the Lime St crew best Simon

Hiya, stick up a link to the website ! cheers Simon

‘S alright, we all know that feeling :)

looks like a 2-4-0 to me…. (Actually, it looks b****y fabulous, but I guess we have come to expect this level of excellence!)

Never heard of such a thing, but here it is https://www.slclightingonline.com/products/black-wrap-foil-photofoil-lighting other online suppliers also

Mike, I had a similar problem with my Duchess and used glass fibre pultruded rod, it’s available in 1mm and other similar sizes, as the fishing fraternity use it for quills for floats. EBay. beware carbon fibre as that’s conductive! atb Simon

Can’t see it (the superglue) being a problem. Have you tried stretching the springs? Done gently it’ll barely change their rate, but will perhaps make them long enough not to fall out. I collected a range of different springs from online sources, as that allows som adjustment of weight distribution, which in turn makes a difference to haulage. When first built, my Dukedog would barely pull two coaches, but with some heavier springs in the front driving axleboxes, it’ll now handle five.

Hi Domenic, I’m probably not alone in having a fear and loathing of Facebook. Please give us Luddites a link! cherrs Simon

Start with a Connoisseur model because they are reasonably priced and they go together properly. there are other manufacturers who may be cheaper, but you might have a fight on your hands to finish a decent model from what is supplied. no connections with Jim, or his business. Simon

I recall a Tom Lehrer song on the same sort of theme. Ah, yes, Agnes

Ah, yes, well, I guess most folks tend to put their layout thread in the group of the scale they’re modelling in..

Hector, you could simply start your own thread, and copy your posts over to it. You could link it here as an alternative approach.

Thanks for the thoughts re N20 motors. On a whim, I have just bought 4 of the 6V 42:1 versions, to use in my slightly off-the-wall rebuild of a Big Big Hymek. A quick check suggests they’ll only get it up to around 50mph, rather than the prototypical 90, but they kind of fit with the ethos of the project, and they’ll easily fit within the bogies it’ll be battery R/C, and so far has cost about 55 quid, half of which was the motors. I have to turn the wheels, they’ll now need some kind of sleeve to fit the N20 shafts, and axle ends to go in the axleboxes. I have batteries, and I think I’ve got a Micron receiver that’ll do too. not sure I’ll go to the lengths of detail your bogies have, but we’ll see.

Actually, Dave, the method I described was told to me by Steph. It doesn’t seem to be on his website any more, which is curious, I was sure that it was. I think he called it “the difficult way” but it does allow for a gearbox, which “the easy way” does not. aha, the link still works: http://euram-online.co.uk/tips/splitaxle/splitaxle3.htm “The Radical method”. To short the wheels, I used a slitting disc to cut a small notch in the rim and hub, and a groove down the back of a spoke. I soldered a fine wire into place using my RSU, snipped off the excess, and smeared epoxy over the wire and spoke. Seems to have worked. it’s all around here, but the photos have gone. That really was a disaster, so much useful info was lost, I guess many folks will not have the photos because like me, they took them just to post, and others won’t be bothered to search for and repost stuff from years back. Hey Ho. Must get back to the Garratt. Valve gear…. Winter job.

I’m not a real machinist, and I’ll not claim credit, but split Slaters axles can be achieved thus: drill axle all the way through - can’t remember the size but around 2.5mm, it should not damage the threads. cross drill the axle in a couple of places that won’t interfere with the bearings take a piece of 2mm glass fibre rod (eBay, fishing supplies), cut it to a length that will fit inside the axle with both screws fully tightened. grease the screws, screw one screw into the axle. put on rubber gloves introduce a glob of 24h high strength epoxy into the hole, try to fill it! coat the piece of glass fibre rod, and push it into place, you should see epoxy oozing out of the cross drilled holes put the other screw in and do it up. Wrap in sticky tape, and put in a plastic bag (with the other axles) somewhere warm for 24 hours. clean off the excess epoxy. put the axle in a lath, and with a very sharp, knife edge tool, part the axle. The glued in glass fibre rod will maintain both gauge and quartering. Test for electrical isolation. Fill the groove with more epoxy, and allow to harden for another 24h. Clean up and use. if you’re careful, you can isolate between the axleboxes and the gearbox. Slaters make nylon axleboxes with phos bronze bearings pressed in, this means your chassis can be electrically dead, but you still have split axle pick up. see my Garratt thread, if the photos are still there.

Mike, if your workmanship is clumsy, I’m not sure where that leaves the rest of us!