Simond

Steve,

pleased to hear that some progress has been made, in both tracking down some of the stolen items, and in replacement too.

I do hope the Police take the matter seriously, and thoroughly follow up.

please pass the Folkestone guys’ kind regards to the Lime St crew

best

Simon

Hiya,

stick up a link to the website !
 

cheers

Simon

‘S alright, we all know that feeling :)

looks like a 2-4-0 to me….

(Actually, it looks b****y fabulous, but I guess we have come to expect this level of excellence!)

Never heard of such a thing, but here it is

https://www.slclightingonline.com/products/black-wrap-foil-photofoil-lighting

other online suppliers also

Mike,

I had a similar problem with my Duchess and used glass fibre pultruded rod, it’s available in 1mm and other similar sizes, as the fishing fraternity use it for quills for floats.  EBay. beware carbon fibre as that’s conductive!

atb

Simon
 

Can’t see it (the superglue) being a problem.  Have you tried stretching the springs?  Done gently it’ll barely change their rate, but will perhaps make them long enough not to fall out.

I collected a range of different springs from online sources, as that allows som adjustment of weight distribution, which in turn makes a difference to haulage.  When first built, my Dukedog would barely pull two coaches, but with some heavier springs in the front driving axleboxes, it’ll now handle five.

8 hours ago, Darkly Labs said:

Hi Everyone!

Our new 10w laser upgrade not only has more power, but also has a finer laser beam. This means the kerf size is at least half the size, allowing for much finer detail.

 

Please let me know if you have any questions. We are posting new videos and information regularly, so please check our youtube page or the Facebook 'Emblaser 2 Laser Group'.

 

Best regards,

Domenic

Hi Domenic,

I’m probably not alone in having a fear and loathing of Facebook.  Please give us Luddites a link!

cherrs

Simon

Start with a Connoisseur model because they are reasonably priced and they go together properly.

there are other manufacturers who may be cheaper, but you might have a fight on your hands to finish a decent model from what is supplied.

no connections with Jim, or his business.

Simon

17 minutes ago, Mikkel said:

copied the technique from Russell's brief description. He attributes it to Whittaker, but of course Whittaker might have got it from someone else at the time.

I recall a Tom Lehrer song on the same sort of theme.  Ah, yes, Agnes

Ah, yes, well, I guess most folks tend to put their layout thread in the group of the scale they’re modelling in..  

Hector, you could simply start your own thread, and copy your posts over to it.  You could link it here as an alternative approach.

6 hours ago, daifly said:

Or you can use Steph Dale's method here:

http://www.euram-online.co.uk/tips/splitaxle/splitaxle.htm

Dave

Actually, Dave, the method I described was told to me by Steph.  
 

It doesn’t seem to be on his website any more, which is curious, I was sure that it was.  I think he called it “the difficult way” but it does allow for a gearbox, which “the easy way” does not.

aha, the link still works:  http://euram-online.co.uk/tips/splitaxle/splitaxle3.htm

“The Radical method”. 

To short the wheels, I used a slitting disc to cut a small notch in the rim and hub, and a groove down the back of a spoke.  I soldered a fine wire into place using my RSU, snipped off the excess, and smeared epoxy over the wire and spoke.  Seems to have worked.  
 

it’s all around here, 

but the photos have gone.  That really was a disaster, so much useful info was lost, I guess many folks will not have the photos because like me, they took them just to post, and others won’t be bothered to search for and repost stuff from years back.  Hey Ho.
 

Must get back to the Garratt.  Valve gear…. Winter job.

I’m not a real machinist, and I’ll not claim credit, but split Slaters axles can be achieved thus:  

drill axle all the way through - can’t remember the size but around 2.5mm, it should not damage the threads.

cross drill the axle in a couple of places that won’t interfere with the bearings

take a piece of 2mm glass fibre rod (eBay, fishing supplies), cut it to a length that will fit inside the axle with both screws fully tightened.

grease the screws, screw one screw into the axle.

put on rubber gloves

introduce a glob of 24h high strength epoxy into the hole, try to fill it!  

coat the piece of glass fibre rod, and push it into place,

you should see epoxy oozing out of the cross drilled holes

put the other screw in and do it up.  Wrap in sticky tape, and put in a plastic bag (with the other axles) somewhere warm for 24 hours.

clean off the excess epoxy.

put the axle in a lath, and with a very sharp, knife edge tool, part the axle.  The glued in glass fibre rod will maintain both gauge and quartering.  Test for electrical isolation.  Fill the groove with more epoxy, and allow to harden for another 24h.  Clean up and use.  
 

if you’re careful, you can isolate between the axleboxes and the gearbox.  Slaters make nylon axleboxes with phos bronze bearings pressed in, this means your chassis can be electrically dead, but you still have split axle pick up.

see my Garratt thread, if the photos are still there.

5 hours ago, airnimal said:

with my clumsy workmanship

 
Mike,

if your workmanship is clumsy, I’m not sure where that leaves the rest of us!

Rod,

mind the brake chain on the 37!

cheers

simon

What’s not to like about that?  A useable modelling material, and two biscuits.  
 

An argument for moving to modelling in 10mm, perhaps :)

I think the issue with modelling things like this is their weight.  Or, perhaps, more realistically, the relationship between their stiffness and their weight.  If you could hold a bit of tarpaulin so it was horizontal, I'm confident that it would have to have a very short overhang before you didn't just get a fold at the point youre holding it, whereas anything we might use as a model materrial will be relatively much stiffer.

The two tar'p'd opens in Mike's picture made me think more of wet tissue - that might be persuaded to hang and fold in the way that the real cloth does.  Perhaps a piece of something that doesn't immedately fall apart, so a cleaning cloth for glasses, or a baby wet wipe?  Drape over a (sacrifical) wagon, and drip PVA onto it to see if it sets with the requisite folds, creases and sags, maybe?

Thanks both,

John built his with equalisation at one end.  It’s not great, because it’s as likely to lift a wheel at the rigid end as it is for the wobbly end to behave itself.  I hope some weight either side of the rigid axle will sort it, as it’s built with the roof glued on, and the axleboxes glued to the W irons…

more generally, I’ve found this problem with Felix Pole 20T coal wagons too.  It seems that long WB wagons might be a bit prone to it.  Probably weight distribution, or simply a lack of weight.

cheers

Simon

Ade,

I was at my pal, John’s place on Thursday, and he built one of these.  Good looking vehicle, but he says it’s not a good runner, it has a tendency to wander off into the ballast at the slightest provocation.  It’s a case of “a butterfly’s wing” being sufficient!

Do you have the same issue, have you equalised yours, if so, how, and how is it weighted?

cheers

Simon

Yeah, saw that, and thought of Ron’s wonderful models.  Haven’t heard anything from him for a while.  Hope all is ok.

Looking good, Ade,

remind me please, is this an RTR or a kit-built?

cheers

Simon

Lovely,

My early experience in modelling on the late Ken Longbottom’s Diggle & Halebarns 0 gauge line.  It was perpetually dusk.   I find such scenes really evocative.  Thanks for posting.

Thanks Michael 

much appreciated

Simon

Hi guys, sorry, been a bit quiet on here of late.  All well, anyway.

I'm currently building a Timbertracks Devon lasercut kit of Tetbury goods shed, which is quite big & chunky, and a nice bit of design & laser work - it’s going together well, with modifications of course.  What it does not have is a crane or cranes, which I’m sure the prototype certainly would have had.  
 

so a plea - if anyone has drawings or photos of the inside of Tetbury GS, or any other similar size/era, I’d be very grateful to see them

cheers

Simon