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33C

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Everything posted by 33C

  1. No, just some plasticard false frames laid over the original frame to give it the proper length. And new firebox sides from card. Note the steam pipes from thick cooker wire to meet the cylinders. The bogie truck is standard. I just used the forward screw hole on the chassis and i used some Jackson Evans wheels i had lying around. The body of the 1946 LMS ,Plunger pick-up loco should show the cuts. Cut 1 is 4mm from the cab of one body through the firebox and cut 2 is through the boiler approx 6mm from the smokebox ring. get another (damaged/old) body and cut off the smokebox and the cab and glue the remaining boiler between the first two bits. (you are replacing the missing 2 feet) ,then fill and smooth. The mounting points to the chassis have to be packed out to fit but not by much. The LMS 1946 Loco was only done because both bodies i had were very warped and became the guinea pig for the maroon princess. (see below). An article appeared in an early Railway Modeller in the late 60's that showed precisely this. Hope this helps?
  2. Believe it or not, this loco was an inspiration to me when i saw it in an old magazine, ( Railway Modeller?) around the late 80's when i was buying old back numbers looking for just this kind of thing as i was bored with jinty's, 08's, B12's etc and wanted something different.........
  3. Looking gooood! The ones shown on the viaduct were sold on an auction site when i last had a cull so hopefully they are giving pleasure somewhere. Have since remade a Great Bear and a Turbo motive as i was given some flood damaged loco's. The 2-8-0's have a hardwood chassis extension, super glued at the rear and drilled for a set of Tri-ang flangeless wheels and cut down rods. Simple as that. All lining now done by bow pen and steel rule to guide, and free hand curves. Got fed up buying expensive lining sheets so bought the cheapest bow pen in the art shop (£1.95) and they showed me how to use it gratis. As you can see on the Furness and Jones it works a treat after a bit of practice! Try it... I wont be going back to Pressfix!
  4. Or these.... The Furness Baltic and Jones goods are my latest. If the wheel flanges bump on the sleepers, two strokes of a coarse file all the way round and then finish with wet and dry sanding block to polish and they will run fine on your Hornby and Peco code 100! (Gordon, Henry and the H16 since sold.)
  5. Top picture shows how she comes apart for battery fitting, bottom picture shows modified on/off switch for ease of operation. Now for paint and something to pull!
  6. Primer and more details plus rerouted light bulb.
  7. Rear view. The top works are still removable for battery replacement and the bulb is being re-routed to light the head light when fitted.....
  8. I liked my mates take on a Darjeeling class B so much that i'm using this.
  9. And this is what i ended up with.....a small garden railway brick-works train based on Cherry orchard lane, Rochford.
  10. A friend of mine who is retired and short of money/space since moving, was thinking of getting back into railway modelling and it got me thinking. What can you do with nothing?! We had discussed using the cheap, battery operated train sets you can find in discount shops/boot sales, usually under a Fiver or even less, taking the motor/chassis as is, and adding cereal packet cardboard bodies to same,as well as the very, toy stock and running them in the ( small! ) garden he has. Cut to 2 weeks later and we have a brick-works diesel and three skips (TT?)made from a "Train set in a tin" and successfully run in my planter/Quarry!, and a Darjeeling B class and coaches (0/16.5) from a "CLASSIC" train set, both found in charity shop for a pound each! Paint i had . Total cost for all was £3 (£1 for UHU from Pou**l*nd). Now i'm looking to go cheaper....
  11. A great inspiration to me, if it doesn't exist, make it yourself! The LNWR Rail-motor still exists! I have it in my collection after finding it on a well known auction site and had to buy it. It runs very well and the natural ageing suits it to a T.
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