stewartingram

Model Bus Zone - Model Errors & Variations List

Quite a few bus errors on the above link

I went to the EATM at Carlton Colville on Friday, for the relaunch into service of the Blackpool "Terror Tram". Whilst there I partook of rides on the trams, buses/trolleybuses, and n.g railway. I noticed an operating practice in use on all of these modes which I've never encountered before.

"Back in the day" as they say, we had 'proper' buses, with open rear platforms, and conductors. The conductor rang the bell (2 rings), to tlel the driver "off we go". You don't hear that nowadays, just a single ring to tell the driver to stop (at the next stop)

So, at the museum, the 2 rings were indeed used, to set off, but were accompanied by the driver (whatever the vehicle) replying with 2 toots back from his horn/whistle. Sensible acknowledgement in fact. But, if the driver wasn't in the cab when the vehicle was loading,, there was more to it. (And in fact this was almost 100% of the time).

Driver gets in the cab - he has to settle in (adjust seat, insert his key, start engine, etc.etc). Then 1 toot to the conductor/guard, who replies with 1 ring. Conductor checks he is ready to go,  2 rings, driver acknowledges with 2 toots, then moves off.

On the trams, stops are mandatory at certain places. On the buses, there are conflicting moves around the circuit. They both toot before processing.

Now this is a heritage museum, but you can see (hear) they have put into place non-authentic operating procedures, which don't really distract from the image. I have to say, I found this professionalism quite outstanding and sensible.

Was it a MOPOK production?

We went to the East Anglia Transport Museum on Friday, for the relaunch to traffic of the Blackpool Brush railcar "Terror Tram". Having travelled to Lowestoft yb train from Ely, the absolute no.1 highlight of the day for me, was the shuttle ubs from the station to the museum. The genuine Eastern Counties LFL57, one of a handful that operated in Norwich. I'm used to the more normal LFS class, 3' shorter, but hey this was great. Come back Eastern Counties, all is forgiven, we miss you!

We had a very long discussion about torque steer on our old Rover 800 forum.....

As a user (occasionally) of the WNXX website, I would like to find something similar that covers multiple units. At this time, I'm specifically looking for any info on units stored at Potters, Ely.

Can anyone help with either query?

7 minutes ago, Steamport Southport said:

 

Only 8Ps got BR Blue I'm afraid.

 

A2s weren't eligible, same goes for the WC/BBs, Castles, Scots, V2s, etc.

 

 

 

Jason

My Hornby B12 did!

I've done this since Scalescenes started. Self adhesive labels from one of the High St. office suppliers, in packs of 100((?). No glue used at at all, saves all the messing about. I print each page of the download (except those which obviously won't be used) onto the A4 sheets. I then stick the labels to plasticard before cutting out. Construction is then like a plastic kit. Cardboard can warp if it gets damp, and I'm building the layout in the garage. I also seal the finished model with matt varnish from the diy shop.

Well, I contacted Hornby. they had a look, but that was unsuccessful. Then they suggested Peters Spares, but I'd already told them that they hadn't any.

So I'm still looking for 2 class 71 buffers, or alternatives.

Is it possible to electroplate the old wheels?

I've described the method elsewhere on RMWeb, but I fix my seeps to a plasticard base. The armature pin drives a pcb sleeper strip, with a new pin at the end. The other end of the sleeper strip has another pin, which operates a proper microswitch attached to the base. Lasty there are choc block connectors for wiring.

All thin takes 10-15 mins to assemble , all from scrap items, lying around except for the siwtches, which cost pence on ebay.

Advantages:

1) Easier fitting - the new pin locates easier into the tiebar. Basically it starts off as a long btass wire, snipped to length after fitting.

2) Inbuilt seep switches are useless, requiring very accurate fitting of the seep., otherwise will not work properly.. This baseplate makes that much easier, and the frog switches are now reliable.

No soldering, on your back, undereath the layout. Choc blocks are simple screw connectors.

3) A couple of small simple jigs (if you can call them that) align both seep armature, and tiebar, to centre position for fitting, along with a simple mark under the board. 

If a unit goes faulty, it is easy to remove and repair on the bench. I've had odd failures, but never thrown one away. Just dry joints needing soldering.

I really will have to take a couple of pics of my sample build and post on here.

Finsbury Park at the North end.

Just to add that I've been holding on the Shapeways site for ages. I had 3 cars in my basket; R75, Morris Ital, and instead of the Metro, a Rover 800. Now over £109 really made me hesitate. Those fees are killers.

I can't see the Rover 800 listed on ebay though, I would go for that too.

Interestingly the price of that R75 is (pretty obviously) far cheaper than the price of a Shapeways one. (I believe from the same source?)

R75 basic price £32.35. With all fees £48.23 !

Well done for moving away from Shapeways.

50 minutes ago, Chuffer Davies said:

Older soft iron cored motors will draw between half to one amp.  An under powered controller may not be able to supply sufficient amps to the motor, in which case the motor will not perform to its full potential.  Conversely a high powered controller (e.g. one designed for O gauge being used on a OO layout) will permit the motor to work to its maximum potential with no risk to the motor.

 

I question that amperage on older iron-cored motors. As a lifetime (now retired) electronics engineer, I also did train repairs for local shops including a couple of Hornby agents. Typical max values for an X04 fitted loco (note, not just the motor) always were no more than 250mA when they passed through my servicing. The H/D locos drew more current; if they approached 500mA they certainly needed a service and probably a remag. In good condition they would be no more than 350mA.

Just looked on his website, no sign of a R75. The Morris Ital looks tasty though..

Do you have a link to the R75?

I've not experienced a loss of magnetism over time, though I have remagged 2 or 3. I can't see a broken magnet ring causing problems either. If you think about, if you buy some small magnets off beay, you can just put them together in series and you get a stronger magnet. I seem to remember that one of the remags was "out of phase" as it were, the magnetic path (measured with a small compass) wasn't in the right plane.  Am I right in thinking it s physically impossible to fit them wrongly? Long while since I looked at one! I'm sure I just remagged it in the correct orientation and it was just fine.

If it is any help I can have a lookat/remag yours. Just give me a PM.

4 hours ago, 31A said:

 

It's found its way to Peterborough off the Midland and the New England B1 for the up Parly has failed, so Spital Bridge being closer to the station than New England, it's got roped in!?

Or came across to Cambridge on the Bletchley and pinched for a London train.

Just to add that my base idea is very cheap and easy, Only thing to buy in are microswitches from ebay at a few pence each. Other parts are thick plasticard, a piece of copperclad sleeper strip,  a few nuts and bolts, and a piece of brass wire. All those I had laying around.

Forgot to add that I now add some chock-block connectors (6-way) so that it is easier to wire up. I'll get a pic tomorrow.

Nice vehicles - I'd love a Rover 75!

I used to pay 4/11 for a gallon.

4 hours ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

So the motor has been significantly dismantled and reassembled. Do the magnets significantly lose field stength while the armature isn't present to complete the magnetic circuit?

Magnets shouldn't lose magnetism in that instance. Only if the magnetic circuit is broken does that occur. Think of an X04, with 2 pole pieces (which do surround the armature). If the screw is removed, and the magnet block removed, it will lose magnetism.

Not a problem for me as I have a remagnetiser!

The photos  that I have seen of the partially uncovered contain seem to me to show it sitting in what looks an open wagon, towards the lh end. Or is it me?

I have used Seep 'motors' for years, as they are usually the cheapest. Apart from the inbuilt frog swithc, I find them reliable, but worthy of improvement. The points (sorry) that I am on about are as follows.

1) frog switch. As a (retires) electronics engineer, I can only say these are rubbish.

If the track is already laid, fitting them from underneath a baseboard is difficult as they have to be aligned correctly, otherwise they are unreliable.

3) In addition, getting the wire pin through the point tiebar is very awkward.

I have devised a simple baseplate to overcome all of these. Once the Seep is mounted on the plate, the tiebar wire is much simpler to locate within the tiebar. A crocodile clip on the wire above the baseboard will hold it, whilst I go underneath the board to screw it in place. Prior to fitting, I mark the position of the point, drawing a line across the point (underneath) so thati t is located at the correct angle. I use a small plasticard gauge to centrally locate the armature within its travel, and I also lock the point blades in mid travel. The new plastcard base also has a proper electronics microswitch screwed to it for the frog switching. And finally, the original drive pin no longer moves the tiebar; instead it moves a piece of copperclad sleeper, the end of which drives the tiebar via anew brass wire (trimmed to length when finished).

At first glance this soumds complicated, but actually it is quite easy. About 10-15 mins work, with much easier installation and better reliability.

I don't have any pics, but can take some if wanted.

Last issue still in WHS March today. And I made a special trip just to get the latest one......