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westernviscount

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  1. westernviscount
    Hi Folks, 
     
    I've completed another wagon using the decalfix + powders weathering technique. This time around I have gone for a heavier finish. 

     
    The wagon is a parkside 13t Steel Open wagon kit. As before, the wagon is completed to ex-works condition, applying decals by modelmaster. With this wagon, I left it with the gloss varnish finish I applied for the decals to adhere to and attempted to apply the decalfix +powders mix. The solution pooled up and left a powdery residue upon drying which didn't look good at all. So, always work on a matt surface with the decalfix+powders. 
     

     
    So, after spraying the wagon matt varnish I applied decalfix + humbrol smoke weathering powder. The solution is applied all over the body, adding more smoke powder around the raised details. The blackness of the smoke powder naturally build up in random areas and can be made heavier by adding more powder as per the right hand end of the wagon here. 
     

     
    As with most weathering, lighting can change the effects quite drastically. With that in mind, it is worth weathering under the same type of light conditions as your layout is under or checking the look of the vehicle periodically. 
     
    Whilst the decalfix + smoke mix is drying, rust powders are worked over the top, thicker this time so they build up in areas to build up a rust texture as caught here on the right hand end. Again, lighting is everything and I have to say the effect isn't quite as pronounced by eye as it is here. 
     

     
    As before, the underframes were painted dark grey originally then worked over with a decalfix + brake dust mix. areas of fresh rust are dusted further with powder.
     
    This time round I elected to matta varnish the vehicle to dull the sheen of the decalfix which was more apparent on this wagon van the planked van I did previously. Matt varnish spray should be used in thin powder coats as the heavier you go, the more the powders will be dulled. You may wish to dust your vehicle first (note the top lip of the wagon). 
     

     
    Although blurry, note how the texture looks different from this angle and looks a little "dusty" for my liking. The inside planking was done using a technique described in Martyn Welch's the Art of weathering.
     

     
    A palette was prepared of humbrol 121, 64 and gunmetal. The 121 and 64 are stippled onto the planks, not mixing the colours entirely to make an uneven finish. whilst still wet/tacky the gunmetal is drybrushed on to create a weather worn unpainted plank effect. 
     
    I often become impatient and over do certain bits or don't follow instructions. Sometimes, I use the varnish spray in poor conditions (too cold) and over spray also. This leaves a frosty white finish which van ruin your model but in some instances can help create a faded effect like the top of the far side of the wagon. This also helped with the below example. 
     

     
    Again, I am pleased with the results of my recent flurry of modelling which usually comes of a good holiday! Again, if you do try theses techniques, do so on something non-precious!!!
     

  2. westernviscount
    Hi Folks. I thought I would share the results of some recent weathering I did on some kit built vans. The vans have mostly sat around since completion to ex-works condition. I see myself as an all round modeller however the flurry of activity at the beginning stages of a kit and the plodding, drawn out approach I have towards the end stages shows where my enthusiasm mostly lies. In short I love building a kit, kind of enjoy painting it  and often dread weathering. 
     
    Part of the dread of weathering may be in *that I feel I have all the requisite skill, space and tools I need to knock together a kit but I lose confidence in my skill levels when it comes to weathering and lack what I see as essential tools. Weathering is of course an area that demands confidence. Also, I demand that a job is done correctly and without an airbrush I have convinced myself I will not be satisfied with the end result and be confident the end result will remain as i intended after handling the model! 
     
    But, I think I have made peace with the fact I will not own and be able to use an airbrush for a number of years but am not willing to have pristine models ruin the effect I am aiming for. So, the models below are completed as you can tell without an airbrush, instead I use Humbrol smoke pigment, a couple of rust and brakedust pigments by carr's and humbrol decalfix. Also a white pencil for handwritten legends. 

     
    Prior to beginning, these vans have had a coat of humbrol acrylic matt spray from a rattle can. I use this to eliminate the high gloss varnish I hand brushed on prior to the decals going on.
     
    I start by having a small amount of decalfix on one side of a dish and smoke pigment on the other. I pick up a decent amount of the decalfix and mix in a little pigment. The solution is used as an enamel wash would be used and behaves in a similar way, running into grooves and around raised detail. more pigment is added to create a darker tone in corners particularly top corners and around the bottom of the van sides. 
     

     
    The metal corner plates of the van is treated with a tiny amount of decalfix and a clump of rust pigment. The clumps allow for the appearance of thinker rust patches. 

     
    I experimented with doing the hand written shunters messages before the weathering process but the decalfix removed most of it. Of course old messages would be removed by hand or through weathering so no great loss!

     
    A word of caution about the process. The decalfix runs neatly and evenly around matt surfaces but pools and is repelled by gloss surfaces such as ready to run models and high gloss models. This is evident in the the white vertical bands on the shocvan which show areas of pooling. The beauty of decalfix and pigment weathering is that although drying and sealing the weathering, water will reactivate it! 

     
    The underframe is dealt with by applying a brake dust pigment and decalfix solution like a wash. Then areas of build up are treated separately and rust pigment dusted over where appropriate. The dusting will hopefully be sealed by the still wet decalfix but if not, the wagon will usually be handled by the body only so noy a problem really. I think what helps this technique is that I paint the underframes in dark grey as opposed to black. I mix humbrol 32 and 33 to make a very dark grey usually, but in the case of the fruit van I think I used pure humbrol 32 dark grey. 
     
    Another note of caution would be that as a positive, the decalfix does its proper job of reducing silvering of the transfers even further BUT unless they have been sealed prior to this process they may become lose and move. Each of the wagons featured are sprayed with humbrol acrylic matt varnish from a rattle can BEFORE the process. Further protection could be added by a further coat of varnish but the effect may be deadened slightly. 
     
    Its worth saying I heard of this technique from the wonderful humbrol how to vids on youtube. The guy is a scalemodeller and goes by the handle "scalemodel medic". 
     
    One last warning, as I said weathering requires confidence so perhaps practise on a less valuable item first if you so wish to try this technique. 
     
    Happy Modelling folks. 
  3. westernviscount
    After a couple of deviations into other projects i completed the Bogie B...or at least got very near!

     
    For a kit that is so detailed and packed with borderline pointless etches (door hinges!!! What a nightmare) the kit is strangely lacking window grilles. Luckily Roxey mouldings do an etch. 

    I hadn't anticipated that modelling some drop lights in the open position would cause me problems but the grille etches are not quite wide enough so some slight bending was required. 

    I am happy with the outcome of this kit and would recommend to anyone wanting an immersive but achievable piece of rolling stock. 
     
    Next comes weathering into a "borderline disgraceful" state. 
  4. westernviscount
    Part 2 of my kit bash of an LNER 20t Brake Van. So far the main structure has been built, foot-boards scratch-built and some hand rails fitted. 

     
    Next, a feature quite apparent in it's absence from the kit is the underframe truss assembly. This is more apparent with my finer floor boards allowing more of the underneath to be seen. 

     
    This was built up from 1mm L shaped strip by plastruct. The job is made simpler by placing a small piece of glass over a drawing of the girder to scale. Glass is used as it is none reactive to the plastic weld. 

     
    Along the solebar, a set of triangular supports are put in place. These are represented on the original kit with a slight raised ridge. This was carved away at an earlier stage. The outer two supports are strips of plastikard laid at an angle. 
     
     
     
  5. westernviscount
    A return to an old favourite here. The Dapol kitmaster 20t Brakevan is a firm favourite of mine and is a kit I return to often. It is a good datum for measuring my progress as a modeller as it is the first kit I built upon returning to the hobby and since then I have built a few different representations. It remains one of the best representations of a 20t brake van and at just 5 quid is an absolute bargain. This time round I wanted to make a bigger change to the kit and attempt to represent the earlier LNER brake van upon which the BR version is based. 
     

    This is not a review but it is worth noting the amount of flash on this kit. It is is also worth noting that this is absolutely no consequence to the end product. A sharp knife and fine sanding blog with sort this right out. 
     
     

    This picture is from a different build (same kit) and shows an essential tool for removing raised detail. Handrails will be replaced and it is best to remove them before the kit is constructed. 
     

    The kit is built in the usual way but the floor ends are removed as the LNER brake van did not have the concrete weights which are represented in the kit. The handrails have been scraped away.

    A thin piece of plastikard is used for the end floor replacement. Grab rails which are present on the BR version are not required.
     

     
    The Footboards are shorter on the LNER version. It would be acceptable to cut down the kit steps but instead I decided to scratch build for a slightly finer finish. 

    A thin plastikard strip is added to tidy up the bottom of the veranda.  I have also added  the plate above the lookout ducket which was not present on all examples and I assume was a later addition to perhaps ease corrosion as I would say this was an area where water would run off the rain strips onto.  Holes have also been drilled to receive the .5mm brass wire handrail. 
     

     
    Handrails have been added to this side of the vehicle. for the first time I have also put the handrail brackets on the horizontal grab rail.
     
    NEXT: Solebar strengthening triangles will be added, Underframe detail scratchbuilt and  a roof fabricated (the Dapol one is a bit thick and is a mirror image of the prototype with the vents being in the opposite position to reality. Bed Now though!
     
    Nos da. 
     
     

  6. westernviscount
    A couple of finishing touches on the livery of the Ratio Bogie B. Completion has been slightly frustrated by a problem sourcing the window etches. 

    The kit involved: Very sharp fresh scalpel blade, strait edge, tweezers, small brush, cotton bud, decalfix (or other) and a bowl of water. 
    For this vehicle I have gone for an approximation of what the markings would be. They are taken from the modelmaster white coaching stock sheet. 

     
    The required decal is cut to size and soaked for a few minutes in water. The decal is then lifted out with tweezers, grabbed by the card backing and placed near the intended position on the vehicle. A cocktail stick is used to manoeuvre the decal into place with a cotton bud used to absorb the water and begin to flatten the decal into position. Air pockets are gently pushed out. 
     
     

    Decalfix is brushed over the transfer. I use this to avoid silvering as I often forego the step of gloss varnishing the vehicle. The railmatch blue is a satin finish and with the decalfix and a bit of time the decal will be set in place nicely. a few hours is needed to wait for this process to complete. The image above is just after the decalfix has been used. If this was a loco in ex works condition then I would go all out and apply a gloss varnish before setting the decals. This vehicle is going to be a disgrace to BR however!!!
  7. westernviscount
    This is a follow up thread to my original post on the construction of a Ratio Bogie 'B' van. The original can be found here:
     After a brief hiatus in modelling activity I have returned to this project. We left off with me having solved the ride height problem. Next came the fiddly etches. 
     
     

    There are separate etches for every door hinge. The added value they bring is not that obvious and a moulding integral to the side would have probably given superior results. However the etches do add the satisfaction value when they are completed. 

     
    Other etches for the chalkboards are also included. I use superglue to attach all of these items these items. 
     

     
    I place a small puddle of glue from which I can pick up a tiny drop on a cocktail stick to apply to the etch or the surface onto which the etch will be placed. 
     
    Sadly, I neglected to photograph the next steps. These included handles for the doors and grab rails for the guard's doors and the ends of the vehicle. 
     

     
    The above picture shows the remaining etches. the the grab rails at the ends are folded to shape an two holes drilled to secure in place. What I think is the buiders plate and the lamp irons were next. The doors have locking handles, small grab handles and T  handles. 
     
    A lesson on egg sucking here; NEVER work with small etches in a room with deep pile carpet!! I lost one of the door hinges which remains in the mythical land all lost items seem to go to. 
     
    Only one side of the vehicle has T handles as frankly they drove me to distraction and the enjoyment levels fell away entirely. I was also still a bit sulky about the missing door hinge and just couldn't focus! A replacement using plastikard was added, with weathering planned to obscure the fact it has no rivets.  
     

     
    Now onto painting. Initially I planned to have a very heavily weathered BR)SR) green livery. However, I decided the vehicle, although plausibly being still in green livery in 1970, would look  little out of place. I also already had Rail blue paint!!
     


    Every picture I can find of the real thing are of heavily weathered vehicles  of which the livery is unclear. So I must confess I am using the Graham farish N guage model as my livery reference. The body and solebar is sprayed using Railmatch BR Blue including the buffer shanks. The roof is Railmatch roof blue/grey. The underframes, vac and air pipes, and buffer heads are hand painted using thinned Humbrol black 33. 
     
    I am now waiting on a delivery of Window bar etches from Roxey Mouldings to place behind the glazing (yet to do). Transfers will follow. 
     
  8. westernviscount
    Hi Folks,
     
    I thought I would share the results of a chance find in Hobbycraft, Basildon the other day. I was in for some bits and bobs for my daughter when I noticed a load of jars filled with decorative stones. As I was mentally scoffing at what I thought was a rather tacky interior design accessory I noticed this...

     
    The jar doesn't have any detail about what the material is but thought i'd take a punt as it looked very much like 4mm coal.  The jar is about the size of a coffee jar and was priced at £3. 
     

     
    I built a plastikard "shelf" on legs to sit loose in the wagons.  The coal was poured on top of the shelf,removed from the wagon and a masking tape wall stuck around it to enable the coal to sit nicely on the shelf. It was then lightly sprayed with "wet water" then soaked in pva/water mix. As I poured the coal, I placed a magnet inside to allow the load to be lifted out with my shunting hook. 
     
    I am often sceptical of cheap alternatives as they rarely match up but if you want a fine coal substitute I recommend this stuff...worth a try. 
     
    cheers
  9. westernviscount
    Hi folks,
     
    I am nearing the completion of a little project I have been working on. This is a Dapol BR 20t brake van I have tweaked and finished as an air piped example from the 1970's.
     
    The kit is a real favourite as it is very simple to build, captures the essence of the prototype and is very very cheap!!! Tweaks include the removal of handrail mouldings and replacement with brass wire, a scratch built roof, new inner doors, removal and replacement of lamp irons and addition of air brake pipes on the side of the vehicle.
     
    There was an article about the revamping of this kit in one of the big model railway mags I believe which was quite a coincidence. I didn't happen to get a copy but I believe the updates went some way beyond my efforts.
     
    Here are the results so far...
     

     

     

     
    Next time I would consider replacing the footboards with something finer. I believe there is a kit but I will refer you back to one the main reasons I love this kit...cheapness!!
     
    Impatience led to me skipping ahead without adding coupling hooks (as I have run out) so this is one of the last jobs before adding sprat and winkles.
     
    Enjoy the rest of your evening all.
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