westernviscount

Thanks Steve. In both cases the weathering is mostly airbrush. I think I have found that I can handle enamels much better than I can acrylic. The body was lightly airbrushed with a dark grey mix then worked over with a cotton bud and white spirit. I am quite pleased with it to be honest. The loco is 100% airbrush at this stage amd will now be worked over with powders.

Steve, the results you are showing on this thread really are excellent. The colour fade on the Ruston is spot on.

Many thanks Tony.

I have put off weathering a long while on this project. I must say I have never been particularly pleased with outcome of my weathering on locos. I have always used powders and felt they just looked like what they are...dusty plastic locos. I have been practising with the airbrush and have for the time being renounced using acrylics as I have never had any success with them. It's me, not them of course! Here I sprayed the underframe area with a mix of leather and blavk enamel throught the airbrush. Then a lighter mist over the body and then further work on the smoke box. The black body area had a further spray of humbrol 32. I am going for a heavy amount of weathering so with co.e in with some powders shortly. I have also worked on the locos partner vehicle...

I have been brave and started some weathering on the coach... The chassis was airbrushed with an in initial mix of revell enamel leather and matt black and a touch along the lower body side. A mix of humbrol 32 dark grey and revell leather was used further on the body sides. This was taken back a bit with white spirit on a cotton bud. The above proceedure leaves dark areas around the hinges etc. The chassis has a further light airbrush of humbrol dsrk grey, revell leather and humbrol "orange" which I cant remember the name of. A touch of rust weathering powders are brushed into areas of the bogies. Very little however! The roof has a light airbrush of humbrol 32, thinned down 60/40 ish.

And progress on stock... I've had the airbrush out and things have turned out Okay. A bit of light filth for the auto trailer And the beginnings of some heavier muck for the loco. Airbrush only at this stage.

Steady as she goes... The push tests led to some worrying bounces until I realised I hadn't put in tye check rails. Just like the real thing therefore, every part of the point has it's purpose. So, point blades are next which to me are the trickiest bit. The track leading to the furthest point is loosely placed at this stage.

My latest project will allow for much more low perspective shots as the entire railway is on an embankment.

I try to get low shots as much as possible. They always lend a further element of realism to the modelling, mimicking real life viewpoints. I try to do so even in the absence of trains. I also enjoy black and white, possibly because I learned to process black and white film at college and it was my favourite process but also it evokes a ceryain place in time for the model. It definitely helps with realism, as I find colour the most difficult aspect of modelling.

I have no problem with useful criticism like this Mike. I am inclined to agree... in part! My issue with blobs for chairs is the inconsistancy in blob size may draw more attention to the fact they are not actual chairs when the pointwork is painted later. That said, the lack of blob may draw equal attention. Something to consider though. Cheers Mike.

Cheers Steve. Doing a bit and having a break is a nice approach for me. I've gone with 1mm flangeway which adds to the visual and hopefully a nice smooth transition through the points. The crossover will mostly, if not always be used to propel a rake of wagons over from the main into the yard. I am looking forward to laying some track around the points and get something running.

Yes, but I responded to the bit where you describe a modelling choice of mine as cliche. It isnt of course, which is why the second part of your sentence seems to row back. Wheels turned on a vehicle is no cliche as hardly modelled...transits however.

No bigger cliche than a ford Transit van on every layout 😀

Happiness...is a warm soldering iron. I have been reflecting on how much I am enjoying building the pointwork for Caia Road. Firstly, the set time slots of a club night mean my propensity to keep going until I make silly mistakes is limited. I know I will not finish, theregore havr no need to race to the finish. The technique is that which my Dad used and is something I always wanted to do as a child. There is an element of the right of passage about building a point. I understand that there are far more realistic methods to use these days but it is not only the final outcome I am interested in. Soldering rail to copperclad in the right place offers exactly enough challenge and reward to match my skills. The sound and look of the solder flowing is most enjoyable amd satisfying. When most of one's working day involves little positive feed back on the impact of one's effort (or being someone who is unable to recognise the feedback) a purely practical and sensory process is most rewarding.

A bit more soldering tonight. Put in the other frog and two wing rails. The wagon push test was successful so quite happy at this stage. I know its an old fashioned approach but I have to say the proccess is really enjoyable.

Hi Cap, I know you asked the Johnster but I use WD40 contact cleaner. As Johnster rightly says not to be confused with normal wd40.

Hi steve. I just trying to think of a time I have weathered direct onto a factory finish. I think the odd coach with washes and the old decalfix method but other than that I have always started with a sprayed matt coat. This may have prevented wicking? The reason I did this was because I didnt own an airbrush therefore needed a keying layer for the powders. I havent done much with the airbrush and havent had much success as yet. I had a real problem with my kit built hawksworth but that was to do with not cleanimg properly. So in summary, begin with a matt coat first? After decal removal of coursr.

A bit more progress last night. I have ended up concentrating on the crossover before moving onto the next points. The second curved stock rail went in and the first crossing V. This was constructed using a second template, filed and soldered rail into a V then set in place. I have previously soldered wiring to the copperclad but this time I solderd the wire for the frog/V under the rail and passing through the board before putting the v in place. I am no expert and my experience is limited to one previous crossover plus a turn out but so far so good. I said last night that it all looks lovely at this stage. Its when the first wagon pushed through leaps off the rails that the fun starts!

There is something to be said for this approach. You could go for a full purge by using microscope slides for windows. Real glass!!

Possibly late forties early fifties brown would be ok. Could it be like the GWR letters remainimg on some locos for a decade or more after nationalisation? But would BR change the numbering and would the area of the numbering be dramatically cleaner than the rest of the bodywork? Based on the selected quote; a further question..black roofs? Was this ever the case? Are grey roofs simply faded black?

First rails going in... I've started with the stock rails for the crossover at the Wrexham end. The curved stock rail is kinked where the end of the blade meets it. From this point the rail was gentle curved between thumb and finger before tacking in place. Applying heat does loosen the timbers from the template so care must be taken. I am enjoying buildimg the turn outs in situ. There is a set limit on start and finish times which naturally controls my habit of becoming impatient and wanting it finished yesterday! Probably next curved stock rail next, then put the timbers down for the goods yard turn outs then the crossing vees, then the stock rails for goods turns outs etc etc.

Further pics of progress... Just in view is the regulator, in the wrong position but on the bracket as per the kit. I realised as I uploaded this picture that I have made a hand brake and positioned it like the gwr autocoach but forgot this was once a braked van, therefore the handle would be in the guard's compartent. There is no through door from the guard's compartment to the cab. I dont know this of course but I assume I have done it wrong. Shame, because I quite like the effect.

I find that with the brass side thickness, putting the glazing behind the apertures there is still too much recess (even for the droplights). My attempts at setting the droplight glazing further back are I confess, done by feel. I use calipers to get the heighy and width of each window aperture, scribe directly onto the glaxing material using the caliper and cut with a brand new scalpel blade. Edges are dressed with wet and dry and finished with a sharpie pen. The window is a press fit (as best I can achieve).

A couple of pics of the most recent progress. Nothing particularly groundbreaking here. The kit comes with ratio coach seats and I built the compartments in line with the actual model not the plan which the instructions suggest. Here we see the glazing loosely fitted without blackening the edges. I made a regulator copying the dart castings airfix autocoach upgrade kit casting (try saying that after a bottle of red...infact try making a regulator after a bottle of red). And a brake handle also based on the dart castings set. I obviously have no pics of the real a44 interior and have based the fittings on the more common gwr auto.