Bomp

In an effort to get some relief from fault finding in my wiring, I started to install a signal. And then realised that I wouldn't be able to see the aspect from the driving console. So I decided to get a driver's eye view of it. It's not wired in yet - I have no suitable switches yet, and the wires are a nightmare. I have already learned from this first one that I need to solder some longer leads on before I put it on the layout, as I can't get the wires to stay in the terminal block that I'm using to extend the feed to the electrics panel. So here is the latest progress picture. Taken on an iPhone when I couldn't see through it, so please allow for the focus and field.

I am doing something similar - but I was thinking of just changing the cabs over - to my untutored eye, the bodies look the same enough.

If anyone asks what I got from my Classics degree and how I use it, I have always told them that it was fun and fascinating at the time. I wanted a degree and I was good at and enjoyed Latin and Ancient Greek language, literature, history, archaeology etc etc. Now I use it professionally to work out what happened from several often incomplete sources (Policing). Add to that, I use it to work out what goes where and to remember what has gone where so far so that I can end up with a wiring system that works. The only difference is that with Classics, I generally ended up understanding why what went where and why it worked.

I've got several sections working now. I've had to start from scratch and go back to one at a time from the controller moving away each time. But I have to move a point because I can't have it where it is, I think I need an isolating joint between the two toes but there's only one joint, and I need to feed them both. I'll think about it before I move anything.

Further to this, I really cannot understand why that which was working just before the controller packed up is no longer working. I have tried taking all the feeds off (I've got terminal blocks all over the place, but they're all labelled with what goes into them) and even the bits I thought I understood are no longer working. It's getting very distressing, after waiting so long to get the controller back working and now the electrics are playing silly games.

So far since the last update, I have finished off wiring up the points I have fitted thus far so that they are all switched from the panel above and all have correct indicators in blue. I now have my controller back after someone along the line of labeling it used the address over the road which sounds like ours but isn't. I have shorts that I can't remember where or find easily - I have checked for metal tools lying across the rails - so that will be my next task. I have ordered some scenic stuff - not something I usually do, because I tend to stop when the trains work, but this time I am determined to do scenery once I have the track working adequately and reliably. So I have signals and trunking and relay boxes on order, together with a couple of stay alive decoders. I have resorted to fetching them out of my steam outline stuff to fit to my diesels because the upper circuit is going to be the modern one (by which I mean late blue/grey to early sectorisation with some brand spanking new trains that I like, such as purple 350s). My Britannia has a rake of maroon MkIs from the serialised model railway magazine, but they are probably going to end up being painted blue and grey to match my increasing stud of such locos. I aim to build up a rake of Pullmans for my steam locos to haul on the upper circuit when I feel like it. I also have a Heljan 86 on the way from Hattons - with glue marks and a hideous livery, but I'm planning to stick my Lima 87 on top and repaint and rename it Robert Burns. It's my layout, so something that looks right - as in the right wheelbase bogies, convincing under-gubbins and bits on top - is right enough for me. Plenty to keep me going for a while, then. Edited to write what I meant rather than something nearly what I meant.

What they all said. Your videos were among the kicks up the backside I needed to get me out of a long period of doing nothing much and now I'm speeding along with my layout again. Tom

Also, I've had a call from a very nice man at Hornby. A piece of wire had broken off my track leads inside the port on the controller and was shorting. That would certainly explain it! While he was at it, he's updated the firmware for me. So that should be back with me soon, and I'll be flying again! I've got to work out the wiring on my new loops and other bits, but it's coming together nicely again.

Some progress. I won't show you underneath, it's a right mess, but at least it works. Next step is to wire the switched LEDs in.

After a week of leaving my DCC controller switched off (I was off the island for a week), I switched it back on, and it looked like it was working. But it still doesn't. All very frustrating given that I've installed more points and got a new loco with DCC fitted. So, it's off to the post office to send it back to Hornby. It's well out of any warranty, but it should be cheaper than buying a new one (which would be the Elite one). I'll use the time without trains to build some kits - I came back with a Big Boy from Revell - and to paint some parcels stock to go with my new ones from the DEMU show. My LMS CCT is going to be blue, as is my Southern bogie van.

Tomorrow I'll set off for my trip to DEMU Showcase. How handy to have it where my mum lives (and where I lived until 15 years ago). I'll be looking out for ideas and bits and bobs that I didn't know I needed until I saw them.

I will build something to go over the top, of course...

After several days of working out what and how to do, I have got another pair of points motorised. The motors are mounted on 6mm MDF strips with gaps where the rods transfer the movement to the points. The points are stuck onto double sided tape. The rod that transfers the movement from the solenoid is bent and ground Code 75 rail, super glued into the plastic bush that operates the microswitches. I rather embarrassingly dropped superglue into the switchy bit, but it seems to have survived being wiped and kept in motion until the glue set. I think. However... I tried to test it, because there are normally shorts because of some unknown, but doubtless simple and obvious, law that says every so often you need to wire things backwards. But my controller/command station has developed a permanent short when I switch it on. Even with nothing connected. Very nearly exciting, but disappointing instead. I may have to use the overtime I thought I was spending at DEMU Showcase on toys to buy a new DCC Controller. But I'll email Hornby first.

A bit more done - both platform loops laid and powered. Some slightly ropy joints to be sorted out, but it mainly works. Each loop is long enough to hold the longest train I'm likely to run without the front/back showing by the exposed platforms. I've close coupled my Airfix MkIIs - by gluing a coupling on every other bogie quite far back. It turns out the Mainline type coupling with the hook and mount cut off glued onto the peg where the Airfix coupling clips to is just the right length to make the corridor connectors almost touch - about 2mm gap under tension. And they don't catch each other on my four foot radius curves, and i can propel them at speed through a crossover made from a pair of long radius Code 75 points. Just got to work out how to fill the gap so you can't see between the coaches. Pictures follow to show the general idea of this end of the layout - a town built over the station, the intention being that the station appears to go straight on. There will be a station roof going straight on, or at least something that doesn't look like an unprototypical town built straight above the railway. The finished article will be lower down, at least at the front. But I couldn't resist having a play when I had the chance.

I have solved the problem with the crossover. I've wired the outer circuit the opposite way round from the inner one. I really don't get why I have to keep on reversing the feeds. It makes no sense to me. Then again, where I'm at now made no sense until I got brave and started. Once I've got some LEDs and resistors at the end of the month I should be able to get my actual control panel done.

After an intensive day of soldering and other electrical tasks, I have mixed news to report. The good news is that I have six points all with motors and switching fitted. All the motors change the points at the flick of a switch. The bad news is that I have shorts that I don't understand so can't solve - because I don't get electrics, I don't know where I'm going wrong. Fortunately, I have friends who know lots about that sort of thing, so I shall draft them in to help. Other bad news follows from the first bit, in that I have switches and wiring in to have LEDs showing which way the points are set. However, I have no resistors, nor any clue how to work out which ones I need, so I tried using a controller to feed just enough, but having blown three of my lovely blue LEDs, I'm waiting to find out how to do it properly. Last night, I had a complete circuit in again for the first time in months, and six feet of platform/storage loop in (I can't find my underlay...). So I played, with three locos on the track and a rake of "modern image" freight vehicles. I keep trying to get up and change the points by hand, though. Some pictures follow: An overview of one end of the high level station. A closer view. Two views of some of the jungle I'm creating under the baseboard. I'm very glad to have space to do it all above the board rather than having to get underneath - though that will follow for the low lever circuit. My temporary control panel and some more wiring. A long long way yet to go, but coming on nicely, I think. And I've been careful to label things so I know what goes where - did I mention that I don't understand wiring and electrics? I'm glad it (mostly/sometimes) works, but I really don't know why it works.

I've hit a snag. I've got two turnouts wired up with motors and switches to cross from up to down. The loco is fine on both running lines until it straddles both sets of points, then it shorts. What have I done wrong? The motors are driven by centre off toggle switches, and I've got twin accessory switches which drive the frog polarity and indicator lights on my panel. It all works apart from the problem above. While I'm working this out, I think I'll move the points from where they are to somewhere else that I need them and wire those ones up later. Or leave them and just put in the platform roads in the station. And I keep on burning out my LEDs. I have no idea how to work out how much power they need or can take, nor how to choose a resistor, nor where in the circuit to put them. So I'm using a track controller to vary the power. But they seem to have a very narrow power window, and I keep opening it too far. It'll be a multicoloured control panel at this rate. I reckon this will be my practice panel and I'll do another one with a proper diagram later when I know how the track is going to look. That's all for now. So very close to being very exciting, but not quite there.

At last! Something to show. Having been given the courage by the video in my previous post, I have been busy soldering - including catching the iron by the hot bit when I missed my new stand! A few pics of where I'm at. The first is my power leads - splitting so they feed the toe of the point as well as the switch for changing the polarity. The colours follow what I've already started, using up bits of mains cable I have lying around. I have been collecting bits for just such an eventuality as this, and I have enough to feed every other track join with a soldered wire on the connector - the other ones are soldered to the rail, giving me a six foot length with a soldered joint in the middle and a feed at each end. I hope that makes sense... Then, both sides of the motor, again with split feeds to one side, and red/yellow on the other side. On this occasion, colours are chosen for what I have in terms of reels of fresh wire. The wire comes from my very generous friend who happened to have enough for me to wire all my points in spare for me to take away. Unfortunately, I have run out of heat shrink sleeving now. I can't afford to keep buying it from B&Q with their variety packs with several sizes I don't need now. Before I can fit them, however, I need to save up and get some twin accessory switches for the polarity and my indicator board. And some more blue LEDs. I like blue LEDs. Especially the really bright ones on the cars at work. But they would be too bright.

I've found a video (a whole set of videos, really) which shows what I was trying to work out from books and articles and leaflets. Just got to collect the rest of the bits (wires, accessory switches and courage) and then I'll have a go. The video is this one:

As usual, no progress to report beyond a couple of goes at placing points to work out what my station is going to be like. I'm more or less happy with what I've worked out so far, but I think I need more sidings and stuff by the running lines as they leave the platforms. I planning on having access to the Town scene/brewery from one side, and possibly some sidings on the other side, using the redundant gradient pieces that I had to change when the slope was too steep. I keep on lusting after all the pretty models I see in the magazines, but I'm behaving and sticking to getting point motors and cables and switches. I have to go for motors now, I've chopped the bits you use to change the points by hand off the ones I have got ready so far - by which I mean painting them. I am very confused about wiring the frogs though - do I need to wire them or can I rely on blade contact? And can i put more than one accessory switch on the motor? If I need to switch the polarity and have a display for my control panel, I'll need two, won't I? I'll look for a book or ask someone at the DEMU show. So far I have two motors, a CDU and 20 toggle switches. But not enough wire. I'm going to save up and get proper wire rather than using the recycled mains cable I've collected - though I do have enough to wire in the track feeds. Anyway, that's all for now, my bed is calling, which will lead to more planning in my head while I wait for sleep.

I've got some of these, but they've got too many happy memories for me to butcher them. Though I do occasionally look at the from the corner of my eye thinking what they could become. Somewhere I have a complete boxed set with track.

Mine's in my basement too. (Link in the footer). I like this. The close coupled coaches look really good - I'll be doing some close coupling myself once I've got fully functioning track. Looking forward to seeing much more of this

Not an awful lot to demonstrate yet. There has been a lull while I got seduced by Tornadoes (RAF ones) and tanks (Challenger 1). I think I have worked out the low level station, but I'll need to work out the appropriate order for doing things. I suspect I'd be better off doing the high level first as it's further away, so there's less risk of damage. After a bit of manking and fiddling, I have four functional kit built locos off my dad, but I've still got a 47xx with a motor which won't turn reliably and a Manor with all the pick ups falling off. The 28xx that I sorted over the weekend is happy enough with 38 wagons on, and that is plenty for the layout, so I'm happy with that. With a big white metal body, it was always going to pull well. I'll try and get a couple of pictures once I've buried down through the stuff that has found itself sitting on the railway.

As expected for me, things have stopped for a bit while I pursue something else (on this occasion, it's military modelling while I save up for point motors and associated gear). I have more or less finalised the lower station junction arrangements using nine points. As far as I can work out without it actually working, this gives me all the operational flexibility I need. It really is not practical to fit the motors under the boards where I have decided to have the junction, but most can be hidden and those that cant will go in little sheds. It may be some time before I get it working, and I have had to steal some points from other places so I cannot run any trains at the moment. I will post a plan of the junction soon, in the hope that someone more knowledgeable about such things than I am can offer insight as to whether it's likely to be acceptable or not. And if it is, perhaps a very kind person could signal it for me using semaphores.

It's been a long time since I posted on here. A quick update. I have got enough points and the like to work out how I'm going to do my low level station. I still have to work out switching and remote operation, but at least I can set it out and get it right for now. This evening I found the Railway Modeller with the beginner's guide to switching and wiring points and crossings. I think I will wire everything now so I can use the circuit while I get some motors. Lucky for me most of the points are alongside what will be a retaining wall and the others are by a water tower sized space, so I will mount all the motors on the board and hide them, which will be much much easier than trying to hack a hole in the 3/4" MDF baseboard with a chest of drawers as high as the supports just underneath. Soon I will have three weeks off work and some of that time the children will be in France with their grandparents, so I should have something exciting to show them when they come home. I have to confess I have been worried (as far as one can worry about something that is pleasurable, and with the information and assistance available in this virtual club) about the wiring and motorising, partly for the expense of getting motors, partly for fitting them, but mainly for the wiring and switching. My tame electronics wizard is a couple of hundred miles away across the most expensive stretch of sea in the waters around the UK, and is busy saving lives on a daily basis, so I'm trying to be brave and do it for myself. The other problem is that there is no electronics shop in Guernsey, so I have to buy it all in from the interweb or make it. Or canniablise broken machinery. The thing I am trying to do now is work out how to signal it. Once I've failed to find out for myself, I'll post a trackplan or aerial photo and ask for help. And to distract myself, I have built a 1:72 Tornado to patrol the skies.