mabel

Jack, Over here and at work in Gods own county for a couple of weeks. Thanks for the tip. One pack ordered, they have to be worth a try for £2.39 inc p&p for a pot full Tony

I have the same problem. I am going to try canopy glue (or glue & glaze etc).. I have used it with great success on a number of other projects where normally you would never use it in a million years! I suppose it is just super refined PVA. Flexible, dries clear and sticks like ..........very sticky stuff Worth a try. Just leave overnight to fully cure. Cheers Tony

After a gentle evenings work there are now two patched panels painted. There is a little bit of overspray on the truck. In hindsight I should have masked it. But the beauty of my chosen paint is a quick rub over with a damp cotton bud (just water with a tiny drop of washing up liquid), and it is clean again. One of the effects of fibreglass brushing Armor yellow is the residue in the grills. I started to clean it out, but as it added to the rusty neglected look am after, I decided to leave it. What do you think??? Cheers Tony

So after a pleasant evening (so far .....), I have managed to deface a perfectly good model, not spill any glues, paint or isopropyl. I haven't cut myself with either of my Swann Morton scalpels.... And I have successfully masked for the first paint patch. I used 10mm Tamiya tape for the job, pushed into the nooks and crannies with a clean cotton bud. A pointer to novices at this time, my chosen acrylic paint never seems to creep under the masking tape like thinned enamel used to. Just sayin..... the above is all the more remarkable considering I have demolished a good half a bottle of Corbières ( bought at le supermarché just down the road from olddudders residence.) Thanks Ian

PAINT!!!! Paint is quite a subjective and emotive subject in modelling circles. It has been debated many many times in many different areanas. I have heard all kind of tales about 100 year old paint samples being kept in grandads wallet and modern methods identifying the definitive pigment composition blah blah blah. Paint is purely personal choice. Don't sweat the small stuff. It matters not if you use Railmatch enamel, Tamiya acrylic, Humbrol etc etc. The main factors I find are; Ease of use (brushing or spraying), Depth of colour / pigment Range of colours Toxic? Smelly? (Very important if you want to paint in a warm house rather than the freezing garage!) Availability Cost. That list is not exhaustive, but works for me. I recently disposed of my complete collection of Railmatch enamels and most of my old Airfix / Humbrol enamels. Being stuck in my ways (like many of us on this forum ) I steered clear of new fangled acrylic paint. WE DONT LIKE NEW STUFF!! However, after a recomendation from this forum to try Vallejo model color, I have never looked back. Don't panic if your chosen paint brand doesn't say Armor Yellow on the label. There are a number of online comparison charts free to download that will point you in the right direction. Also, there will be hundreds of shades of your chosen colour due to age, sun bleach, patch paint, etc etc. I find that the Mk1 eyeball gives me the paint match I am happy with. Try it.... My chosen 4 yellows for this project .......

An hour later and 232 has been distressed to my liking, and I finally removed the handrail I personally don't like to remove stuff if I can get away with it. I know my limits and removed items never seem to fit the same when I marry them together again!

After 15 careful minutes (or thereabouts ), you should be left with this...... I decided to use only the cotton bud / isopropyl method for the cab side. Purely because that is my preferred method..

If anyone has any advice, constructive criticism etc, please type away. The idea of this thread is hopefully people new to this side of railway modelling will get advice and information from.

The spice jar with the Orange lid is filled with water and a drop of washing up liquid. On opening the lid, it has holes in the top that are just the right size for dipping your paint brush in. I use only Vallejo acrylic paints and washes. (Other brands are available......). I am very impressed with the pigment depth and complete ease of use. Clean up with water. Simples Now we have our equipment and have half an idea what to do with it, let's make a start ........ Firstly I set about removing the lettering from the long hood with a mixture of fibreglass pencil and isopropyl on a cotton bud. Both methods remove the letters but with slightly different finished result. The fibreglass pencil replicates harsh wear and tear, whilst the isopropyl method is more subtle. I use a combination of both. With practice, a nice faded, worn appearance is relatively easy to achieve. Top tip; I find that the fibreglass pencil is most effective when only 3 or 4mm of fibres are protruding...

Here are the items I use most; Isopropyl alcohol (buy in bulk online) Various tweezers Various Swann Morton scalpels & blades A very safe receptacle for removing blunt blades A fibreglass pencil Sprue cutters Decent quality masking tape (I use Tamiya) Weathering powders Filler Glue (poly cement, super glue and canopy glue) An old toothbrush Sanding sticks (nail files, buy in bulk online. Make sure there is fine grit one side) Cotton buds. Don't pinch your mothers/ girlfriends / wife's . You will use lots. I do again, buy a pack or two from £1 shop A cheap Chinese air brush (£6.99 inc p&p) 1000 grit wet & dry....... This list isn't exhaustive. You don't need everything listed to weather your loco & rolling stock. This is what I use. The number of items on the list grows over the years as you learn different techniques.

There are detail differences between the real loco and the model, but it is the look that I am after. Like I said, this isn't for rivet counters ! So firstly, clean your workspace of all other projects, odds and ends, etc. Then collect all the tools you may (or may not) need. I find it better to have stuff you are likely to need in a fairly handy place. It saves trying to find that elusive item on a busy workbench, and your temper is starting to grow. To make things worse, you suddenly find that you have been 'gifted' with the dexterity of two left hands with cobblers thumbs Top tip; cheap cutlery tray from the £1 shop does a super job.

Ok, thanks to Jason, it looks like I have a chosen steed. I intend to show a blow by blow account of how I acheive a battle scarred and weary paint scheme. Definitely not for rivet counters. Not the definitive way, just the way I do it. I hope it may be helpful to others who want to try but don't want to ruin a perfectly good loco. Ok, here is the patient . A mint boxed sd40 Ebay bargain ........

Thanks for the replies fella's. Thanks to Jason's find I'm going to model NREX 232. See pic borrowed from rrpicture archives site (joe Hughes)

Jason you are a star!! I have been searching for literally months for a post 2000 SD40. I almost gave up and headed down the freelance route. I have never done a picture by picture account of my modelling, but watch this space..... Thanks Tony

Jason, many thanks. NREX 232 is exactly what I am looking for! Attached is a catalogue image of the loco in question.... At work at the moment so can't get at the model

Looking for some knowledgeable types to help me out re SD40 (short / origional rear porch). I bought an Ebay bargain, Athearn rtr SD40-2, only to find out when I eventually checked the loco, it was a plain SD40, not a dash 2. So rather than re sell it, I thought I would repaint it as a leaser rent a wreck. I have trawled rrpicture archives and the like until I am cross eyed. I can't find anything with an SD40 short rear porch in the timeline of my layout ..... 2000 ish onwards. Thanks in advance chaps

Shame they never answer emails. Their website shows some impressive stock..........

Paul, thanks for posting the links, unfortunately the computer at work wont let me view your site(s)...... Must get internet sorted at home! Thanks to everyone for taking the time to post pics and details. Big help. M

griffgriff I think the oil was 6v62...... there is a website dedicated to that specific train logging all the motive power for each train from late 80's up to date....

Excellent e/wdivide. Thats exactly the kind of info I am looking for. Nice pic of the unique Railiner ..... Another stalled project of mine! The period Im (trying) to model is mid to late 80's up to demise of Speedlink. Your '85 pics fit just nicely Ta M

Hi all, Im looking for info on freight flows through (or to) Westbury in late 80's if anyone can help. Thanks M