ianmaccormac

Hi Guys! Many thanks indeed for not telling me to go anywhere quickly! I too think that is a great improvement already and as Craig says, you have already painted it! Amazing! What actual size of lifeboat are you wanting as there may be some knocking about at work that aren't being used! How many and the length, breadth and depth. Are they all like thses ones, open with oars or are some enclosed motor boats? Norman Jones is the chap who keeps a close eye on his training officers so when he is next here I'll show him. Imissed him a couple of weeks ago as I was haveing a cataract operation. I can see clearly now, at least in one eye! Cheers Ian in Blackpool

Hi Carl and Dave especially I have measured two here at work where we have a few models in the foyer. They are about this same size or built to 1/100, 1/64 or sometimes just a unique scale that fitted an existing hull. I thought that the level of detail and workmanship is exemplary and this was the only bit that didn't cut the mustard! I was trying to help Carl have the absolute best model. Its certainly brilliant as it stands right now but in that small area could be made more realistic. I aim to make the very best models I can and I think Carl also has that ideal. I am only pointing out one small area of improvement. I am going to point this model out to the training officer for CalMac when he arrives next week to talk to the officers he has placed here. Hope that helps Ian

Hi I have just added a number of photos on the Cleminson thread answering your query Cheers Ian

Hi Carl I too have been following this build with much awe! I am one of the managers of a Merchant Navy Cadet Training College near Blackpool and have been much impressed. However, this last, almost completed picture of the lifeboats lowering arrangement has grated! This needs redoing as at present, with a fixed bar between the davit and the boat you could only lower the boat to embarkation level! Have another look at the photo on the second page of this build and the red part touching the fore and aft ends of the bows of the lifeboats are blocks with wires running through them. They are connected to the lifeboat itself by a load/no load release mechanism. The wire runs up from this through pulleys attached to the davits as on the photo. I have only offered constructive critism in the hope that this will make your wonderful model even more accurate. An excellent topic all the way through. Many thanks for sharing it and please don't be put off by my nit picking! Regards Ian MacCormac in Blackpool

Well what you have done with a truly awful set of parts is very acceptable! I have the filler paint now and was wondering how many cans you used on this one? I am quite amazed that you have got this wonderful result and it has put me off considering building for others for life! Thank you for a very informative thread,showing all the ways of overcoming poor design. I look forward to the next project. Many thanks for taking the trouble to answer my queries whilst battling with this. Best wishes and I hope you get an extra bottle of malt with the cheque! (big hint - or chocolates, beer, wine, etc, etc you have earnt it!) Cheers Ian in Blackpool

I drew this,I think, as an etch for a commision for MARC Models in 4mm. You could try them and see if they have any further info about it. It was known as the Teatrolly! Cheers Ian in Blackpool. Still got some pictures if you are interested?

Cheers Mozzer! I hadn't realised. I understand the growling face now! Thanks for the info, I'll see about some of that for another job! Cheers Ian

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...E-/120581091935 There is one on ebay for just one hundred at the mo! Looks like with the tools and software. See what I mean? Cheers Ian also for a more recent one see http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROLAND-EGX-300-ENGRAVING-MACHINE-/320543435347?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4aa1e0aa53 a bit more expensive that but brand new, the latest versions go for 3000 to 3500 GBP!

And having just read this, may I ask what filler primer is or is it just that? Where do you get it? What make etc please? Thanks Ian

Well I am absolutely astonished that you have kept going with what appears to be an awful set of components! You have ended up with something rather nice from the yellow end photos and I can only say I admire the determination. I think had this been mine, I would have sent it back! Does the kit designer still exist? I must made a mental note to steer clear or is it a first go from long ago and things and the persons kits are usually okay nowadays? I have been looking at several 7mm threads and am dipping a toe in with a Vulcan Terrier, which, apart from a few reasonably easy to sort out innacuracies, seems to be going okay. I usually model in 4mm but had an eye op last month for a cataract and so looked at the Terrier to see if I could still manage anything. Glad to say all is okay and I am back, firmly, in the 4mm bits. I look forward to the finished pictures, Cheers Ian in Blackpool

Hi Craig We seem to be diverging from the 3D printing thread. Apologies. I don't see why not. The key is the size of tooling you are using. The CAMM 2 works not as true 3D but 2D profiles at differing heights. The top surface of say a brick wall mould would be the outward surface of the bricks and the mortar inset would be as small as the tool you could cut. Same as laser engraving. Just draw it in a different colour and assign a different tool and or toolpath in Z axis to that colour. Set the order of colours and away you go. A solebar, top surface would be the bolt heada so you would be removing a lot of material just to leave those and then the next surface would be the actual solebar.The cutting through the material to separate the solebar from whatever material it is you are cutting would be another colour. But don't ask me to do it as I am so busy with all sorts of other projects! I have my first etched loco about to test build, need to do the masters for castings for that, am redoing 3 coaches at the moment and drawing two more locos! I put together the Brighton Circle magazine, and I try and get some modelling done. And then there is the day job! I manage the Nautical College at Fleetwood! However, these machines do fantastically well with all kinds of materials up to brass and aluminium. I wouldn't use steel on them, not meaty enough for that. Obviously, the harder the material, the thinner the cut you can take but Roger manages to make moulds for all his injection moulding on them and so you can see what he can achieve. He uses a combination of 3D and 2D programmes but his brain capacity is absolutely fantastic - a trained graphic artist - like you? HTH Ian

Tha CAMM 2 has holes in its sides enabling longer parts to be made by using a step and repeat drawings with pegs to line things up. Cheap! Or you could see if you can buy timeon the machines at yourlocal high schol. There may be a few teachers on here? Cheers Ian

But it doesn't have to cost that much! A Roland CAMM 2 PNC 2300A, or later version, is what a lot of people use nowadays in the cottage market. They produce up to A4 bed size and approx 35mm Z axis. You can make many moulds from them - ask Roger Chivers. I bought mine for £300 on ebay 6 months ago. Roger has borrowed my Roland CAMM 3 - a light weight true 3D milling machine. Last one of those I saw went for 450 pounds. That takes 6mm tools, the CAMM 2 takes eigth or three sixteenth of an inch tools but you can cement carbide tools into a holder or grind your own D cutters from SS or carbide as Roger does or buy them from engraver spares. Great for injection moulding or resin tooling out of brass. Good for several thousand shots. If you can produce the drawings then the software that comes with the machines is enough to cut the masters. Hope that helps Cheers Ian MacCormac in Blackpool

Thanks for the info.I have designed and etched a load in 4mm but iwas tempted by a 2mm Terrier and may try a couple straight shoot down in scale and see what happens. I'll have to et some wheels and do some measurements first to seewhat bearing sizes etc you use in 2mm. Cheers Ian

Hi Etched Pixels I have uploaded a diagram from the National Archives to the Prototype Galleries section. It is the one with the corridor connector. Hope that is of use. What thickness do you etch in 2mm? What are the bogies from? Cheers Ian MacCormac in Blackpool - Brighton Circle

I have a photo from the lineside with B4 350 on a train. Good details of the pavilions in Brighton days. Have you a copy or shall I pm it to you? Cheers Ian

I would be interested to know more about the J class please. Looks very nice indeed Ian, an LBSC fan