daltonparva
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Posts posted by daltonparva
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Take the chip out and try it in another loco that you know works, if your suspect one works now you need a new speaker. If it doesn't it's the chip. You will have to try a reset if you have tried everything else.
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Yes. Hornby Mag published an article by Paul Chetter on how to do it if you have nimble fingers, an there are a couple of videos on you tube of sound fitted examples.
You could also have a look at post 2220 on page 89.
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Your Title's a bit off-putting, I hope it's just a spelling mistake?
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Has anyone fitted sound to their Coal Tank yet?
I have in mind fitting Keytes Super D sound but it all depends on if it will have a suitable plug. I have only just investigated the remark that the bunker is wired for a speaker. The green board was unscrewed and the loose cube of plastic removed to leave a rectangular hole for a small speaker. I'm not sure if this is the course I will take though.
I note YouChoos also have a decent Super D sound.
I removed the DCC mounting board and blanking plug, and the two metal pillars they were fixed to, and fitted a Loksound micro V4 with my own 6-pin plug and socket arrangement. This left enough room to fit a YooChoos speaker I had under the decoder as well as a speaker in the place provided in the bunker. The chip needs re-blowing with a suitable sound though.
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Up to now I've managed to retain the bottom half of the cast weight which sits in the bottom half of the boiler. I'm hoping the better contact between Alan Gibsons steel tyred wheels and C&L steel track will boost the grip a bit. To be fair it only needs to pull 5 wagons max. The Pekett's a cracking loco but I'm not sure the L&Y had many of them so it has to be the Pug unfortunately.
The Peckett doesn't really fit in with everything else I own either, which has LMS written on it. I told myself to be strong, unfortunately I am but a weak and feeble man.
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Years ago I did 3 of these for myself, when loksound 3.5 was the norm. You can get a full size 21 pin in the tank, and I used a 20mm round speaker stuck against the back of the cab, I didn't think it looked too obtrusive at all. The cab just detaches with the speaker attached, I soldered bent wire to the speaker terminals which contacts 2 small pins I drilled into the cab floor. If I was having a go now I would use a zimo mx648 which is 10mm shorter than a full size decoder, and I am fairly confident you could fit the speaker in the tank as well. The problem is although I shoved as much lead shot into every space I could to compensate for the weights I removed from the tank, it is still a light model. When you compare it with the Peckett, they are similar size but the new model is a lot heavier due to its cast construction.
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I've reported it as well, plus a few other similar ones as well over the last few days. I've noticed the thieving sh*ts have now started using English names but with the address still in Chinese characters. If they fix that they will be harder to spot. You'd think the combined brainpower at EBay would get their fingers out to stop it before it corrupts the site completelyFrom one extreme to another! anyone want a H&P Peckett for £22,28? There is an eBay listing for one, the snag is that it is in China,of course that's not the only snag, I suspect it's a way of harvesting bidders personal details.
I have just reported the post as there have been quite a few of these lately, previous genuine listings are cloned with the exception of the price which is ridiculously low. There have been quite a few 'bargain' n gauge locos recently too. Experienced modellers who know their prices won't be taken in but maybe newcomers to the hobby will get caught out.
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LMS & BR versions now being listed on E-Bay, let the hunt begin. (By the way Oiks, the cry is "Tally-Ho", not "After the B*st*d, gerrit!")
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Proper chips in the restaurant instead of nuked frozen things.
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Does anyone have a fixed(ish) price yet? Many websites are saying TBA still.... .
Hattons ad in Modeller says "pre-order for £111 (estimated).
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LMS liveried loco now available at Track Shack for £118.99, including next day delivery.
Two left as I've just bought one :-)
Cheers,
Keith
No there isn't, 'cos I've just bought one as well. Merci buckits for the heads up.
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Does anyone know why Hamilton was booed by the Aussies on the podium?
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The coupling isn't a problem as I've already thrown it in the bin and fitted Dinghams. Does the body/cab need cutting at all? I'm interested in how you get the wires to the hole.
The body/cab didn't get touched at all, the only real work was to drill off the screw lug under the chassis, and file a groove for the wires to sit in on the top of the chassis as the body sits flush on this. You should be able to see this on the 2nd photo.
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It's the smallest sugar cube available from Zimo/ESU etc, approx 12 x 8mm. The housing for it needs cutting down so it doesn't come below the frames. The wires go through the hole where the original coupling screw went. There is a lug affair for this screw that needs removing so that the speaker sits flush on the underside of the chassis, as previously explained. You need to fit a replacement coupling by drilling a hole at the end of the chassis.Could you post some detail pictures of how you got the speaker wires through the frames, please? Exactly what type/model etc. of speaker did you use?
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I've had a go with this picture editor thingy, here's hoping I've done it even though I've been pratting for ages without knowing what I'm doing. I think I've lost 1 photo by altering one and saving it over another. Anyway lets hope this works.
This should be a picture of the cut down speaker fitted where the rear coupling fits between the frames. This involves removing the lug where the coupling screw houses by drilling/filing, the speaker wires go through the remains of this hole after lining the inside of the frames with insulating tape to insulate the speaker connections from the chassis. You need to file a groove in the top of the chassis to take the wires from exiting this hole to where they will run up the back of the motor housing where there is room for this because of the body fixing pillar. After wiring up the speaker to the decoder this should hold the speaker roughly in place to allow the rear body fixing screw to be fitted, the speaker then half covers this screw before being held tightly in place by the new rear coupling wedging it, I then filled the small gaps in with black-tack to seal everything.
Fitting the speaker here frees a bit more room for the decoder. I used a Plux 16 Zimo decoder I took out of a Fleischmann loco, this goes at the front of the motor housing, it justs needs the two small retaining lugs breaking off and the plastic locating bit at the bottom removing so the decoder sits on top of the cylinder block. Not trying to fit the speaker here means there is room to construct a plug affair for the decoder, I used a female fitting plug cut down from a dead 21 pin decoder linked to the 4-pin plug on the loco's wiring, if you use a wired decoder you could connect direct to this plug. I didn't find it neccessary to alter the body in any way, everything fitted back ok.
The decoder is held in place/insulated with black-tack between the decoder and the motor housing. The pictures show the speaker wiring going down the side of the motor but this was a mistake I realised after the photo's were taken, the wires need to go over the top of the motor.
Here's hoping this has come out OK, and you all understand my ramblings.
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I fitted sound to my Dodo yesterday, and I thought I'd have ago at posting a couple of piccies on here, but it's beyond my very limited I.T. skills. I can try to attach a photo but it comes up as too big a file (3.4 MB instead of 1MB), and I cant work out how to shrink it, so you'll all just have to take my word for it. Suffice to say I found it easier than the method in Model Rail. Sorry Peeps!
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These (LMS) were on sale today at Doncaster show. (2 dealers).
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A capacitor for suppression purposes. Bachmann started with this larger capacitor in the tender some time ago, first model I saw it on was the J11 0-6-0.
Thanks for that. I presume therefore that it can be done away with when DCC-ing.
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Thanks for that. Any idea about the thing that looks like a stayalive?All wheel pickup excluding the pony truck (apparently)
However even if there were no tender pickups it would require 4 wires between loco & tender anyway, ( 2 pickups from loco wheels to decoder & 2 back to motor)
So maybe the 2 we see in photo are perhaps each a double wire??
Additional info
I have just checked out a couple of other Bachmann locos and it would appear that I am correct in that the wires are double and do appear to be just 2 individual cables
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I've just looked at the review in today's Modeller, and the photo of the opened up tender seems to show a stay alive fitted. Is this what it is, and as there appears to be only 2 wires bridging the loco and tender does that mean there's no pickups on the chassis?
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OK, just twigged that's the dates of the fair, put all your sarky thoughts back in their boxes.
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Are there any other announcements to come, as the heading says 24th to 26th?
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The LMS had 4, so I'll have another one.
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How soon? When? When? Tell me! TELL ME NOW!!!!!!Pssst...word is, and you did not hear it from me, that the Coal Tanks are arriving sooner rather than later.
Alex
Bachmann Jubilee Kashmir DCC sound
in DCC Sound
Posted
Hello. I've just had a look at the instructions for one of these to see which decoder is in it, and I see it's a Loksound Select. Has anyone bought one and can give a verdict on the sound and synchronization?