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richard i

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Everything posted by richard i

  1. i can then lick my fingers and eat a sandwich without having to wash my hands properly afterwards. now that is true freedom.
  2. Looks nice, whose kit is it. Not hat I should ask, I have enough GCR carriages to build first. Richard
  3. Forgive the mess, I know where everything is.......honestly and I am only allocated a small area to work in.
  4. The Lms CCT with 5 layers of paint on. They feel a good scale 6" wider now. Why does crimson cover so badly? Just the roof and chassis to tart up on each. Now I know my roof paint covers in one application so this should be quick. Richard
  5. USA manages to procrastinate pretty well. France gave them the Statue of Liberty but to took a decade for the Americans to build a base for it. The less said about the need for continuous resolutions because they are umming and ahhhing over the budget the better.
  6. I may have to do that too once the layout goes into the round, but I want to keep minimum radius to 2'6" . I will let you into a little secret.....I have not fitted the seating. I find that on narrow compartment stock once the glazing is in it is near nigh impossible to see. But don't tell anyone and we will get away with it."A long term reader" thank you, I hope my ramblings are not too dull. Richard
  7. The GWR batch was quicker to tart up. Just going to transfer up and weather and let the natural plastic colour do for the base colour. It looks a reasonable match. In the paint shop are the LMS CCT s but I have to admit the maroon / crimson lake is really very see through and it I taking a vast number of layers to cover the base colour which was too plastically looking. Richard
  8. I found it was paint brush hairs that insisted in staying on the coach during painting. I can contribute a quadart once it is lettered up. Just need to get them from the states. This endeavor could also see the widest geographical spread of contributing stock. Any from Africa or South America? As to seeing B2 and B3 running yes please. My B3 is only a collection of bits and a vague idea how I might get them to fit together. Finally where did the 600's go? Only seemed like last week that we started in them. Richard
  9. Didn't understand most of what you said, but it did sound dead clever. Always looks good. Richard
  10. The quad art gets as far as transfers stage. Also have painted door handles and hinges and retrospectively done that to the others too. What order to tackle the other companies.
  11. This is true, but as a modeller it is so much easier spray painting a flat colour rather than this layered approach, though I have enjoyed the process.............when it has worked. Photos not available of the reprinting required when an experiment failed. Richard
  12. Inspired me to post the story so far of my GCR version As previously said if the bogie could be sorted then the rest is simple, just the roof and boiler, crew coal and glazing . Paint job could be better. Any kit which saves some of this fight even if not all of it is to be applauded and thanked. Richard
  13. That looks great. I would be really interested in a oo gauge one once you are happy with it. Richard
  14. Also done is the Thompson brake, if it were are it would be considered an impressionist painting rather than hyper realism. Other than bogies it is built, which to me was important to achieve. Transfers to come. It has been fun having a go at an older kit. Simple but effective. More of a very helpful scratch aid. Personally I really liked the sides and roof combined so no unsightly join there. Richard
  15. So taking jim's advice. Used brown wash on this, but did not clean it off as I think it gives a nice look before doing anything to it. For comparison next to the untreated quadart I quite like it as it is for variation. However a little bit of me wants to give it the brown wash and clean it off. Unfortunately it is either one or all because the 4 carriages went around as a set. Is it just too clean? ( ignore the white pained underframe, it has not been through the paint shop just yet.
  16. Okay, I seem to be able to do fresh teak straight out of the works, and dirty almost on last legs look, but how to do the in between, work stained but clean? Richard
  17. Views and opinions Some stock has been weathered down, is it too far? I have both sides of the coaches in case one looks okay but the other does not. I am thinking of leaving the quadart as clean for variation but time will tell. Richard
  18. They did come from your collection. I think they look great in this state, there will be a fashion show of all of them once they are all done.
  19. Thank you, all helpful advice, I will try to act on it. Though I will not replace the handles, there is only so much time I want to spend on these as they are a break from the normal pre grouping that will predominate on my layout. Richard
  20. Painting has been experimental lately. First teak attempt Then attempt 15 The advantage of having so many to play around with. I am pleased with the second looking like work stained teak, the first looks good if it was in a museum but still needs a little work to my eye to bring it closer to reality. Ironically one of the reasons I decided to go all the way back to pre grouping was because I did not think I could do teak painting. Matchboard stock I reckoned I could do. Richard
  21. Teak masters any advice from here? First attempt which seems to look like new teak, perhaps too much, too clean? Then attempt number 15. This had much more of run down teak, too much? Any thoughts happily received Thanks Richard
  22. The answer to my prayers? Could you make sure you let us know when it is available please. Out here in the states am a bit out of the loop on when things appear. Lost out on a GCR s1 from Judith edge because only realise it existed once it had all sold out.Richard
  23. I went with the spud option too, I had the gubins off a GWR mallard models steam rail car, but could never get it to run smoothly. I have build valve geat for other locos, like v2 but getting smaller just made it too difficult at present. I have had an eye on the Kernow railmotor as a possible insert. Unless another simpler, clearer etch is made to build from another source.Richard
  24. 00 gauge . If it was in 7 mm the valve gear would be easier as it is larger. If it was 2mm then half could be left off as it is too small to see. God only knows how someone in 3mm would cope. Richard
  25. looks good, but it the bottom half where the real modeling issues lie with all that valve gear, how are you intending to solve that? I have a GCR steam railmotor which has stalled at that point.
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