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Thanks Peter yes the compensation you describe would have been the answer, and I have considered it. I have effectively introduced a crude form of this ( Yes I know very crude) by lowering the ride height on the front axle and using the coupling rods as the compensating beams. I remember articles in MRJ of compensating 2 8 0 and 210 0 chassis. It may come to pass that if still not satisfied with riding I will bite the bullet and dismantle and fit the more elaborate compensation

One last post before hitting the sack....soldered one of the Lms mainly ttrains brakes onto the brake rods...it needed to be much reduced to fit...will photo the alteration in due course..

thanks Pete appreciate your post...in my case I think the problem is not just the curvature of point work, but the fact it is on my worst curves on unintended gradients caused by my poor carpentry when I built the layout some 20 odd year ago. The worst manifestations were at the entrance exit of fiddle yards...thesehave been relaid...in recent times twice...my scenic curves into the main Water orton station area...ballasted......well 99 per cent Of my locos negotiate it without problem.....it is this unique chassis that has exposed ,my layouts less than perfect track bed. In conclusion I am trying to discover that compromise between the two problems. It is for this reason have highlighted my dilemmas, for modellers with better laid trackwork, the kit could be made and present no problems. I however have decided to describe the build as it has presented itself to me. In an ironic final note none of my RTR stock has had problems....except and in this I don't think I'm unique...one of my Bachmann deltics....a guest loco in BR blue....in my collection as a reminder when I cabbed its real life counterpart ar Waverley in 1971..

Just read my last....thought it appropriate to show my build and problems encountered, and thereby hopefully assisting others. The main difference I suspect is this loco us being built to run on my layout with its inbuilt .....challenges.....I'm sure better permanent way will be more forgiving than mine thus negating the extra effort I am having to make..

As ever spoke too soon still working on the riding qualities of the chassis. There is clearly no front bogie to guide it into corners unlike say the 9f.....the result has been on certain of my corners the front drivers have lifted...and occasionally derailed and caused a short. I have therefore used a variety of tricks learned over the years to try and remedy this As mentioned the rods are jointed...brass bushes filed to a minimum...I have also used a one eighth drill to slightly lower the front axle by drilling the lower part of bush...this lowers the ride height of that axle and in theory the outer rods act to compensate...crude I know but appears effective.. I havnt done any more about brakes until she runs to my expectations. The tender was attached just now and she is running ok.....

Balance weights added to wheels...soldered a brake to the rod from the mainly trains Lms set....like the. Detailing etch previously purchased they do seem large...certainly compared to comet ones I have left over on tender chassis etches....caused a number of shorts...who wants a life without challenge (s). .?

worked on the rods...using the Alan Gibson wd 2 10 0 rods I've jointed the DJH originals. I've created a 060 with the two outer rods now separated. This was done to improve the flexibility. Ok confession time it sailed through my curved points on completion".........NOT.....in frustration I used a tip taken from Ian Rice in his book in chassis construction........I took the blinking thing and twisted....no science....no engineering skill....just brute force. It worked..... The photo shows progress frames painted...brake rods soldered in....and yes the now successful rods in place......

Steve I've got the Bradford Barton books LMS locos by HC Casserley.....thank goodness he had the foresight to photograph every type of locomotive in theses wonderful islands, the Scottish types in particular....most swept away not long afterwards. Thank you for reacquaintinng us with them.

Steve not being familiar with your chosen prototype....however having seen numerous photos of 044 ts ...not least those as futher south in these islands.....those bogie wheels seem ...small by comparison, The diversity of type ...both steam and diesel loco that fascinate us modellers..

Tony just pondering on the life of the staff at Little Bytham jct signal box. The box was it staffed 24/7.? given the rivalry of railway companies which I understand persisted long into nationalisation.....were they isolated from their co workers on the predominant GN/ LNER system... It was your mention of the privy....it was the thought of these staff....living in isolation in a way, from the mainstream railway so close yet so far, on their own secondary route. It is truly a vanished world, which yours,and other excellent models bring back to life.

Didn't he sing what kind of fool am I or was it the late great Norman Wisdom....either way the song is very apt for me...

Colin its on the same thread as growing your own money tree

Time v money v creativity v satisfaction with one models....I have no way of confirming....but a certain layout in 7 mm...money has been spent that I can only dream of....and please note....not a sour note, for I would do the same in similiar circumstances. I would still wager the part of that masterpiece would be something added by the owner..themselves...unnoticeable to the rest of us......but to that modeller....

Hi Steve one thing not fully appreciated when starting this thread.....modelling in real time. In the past authors would have built their models....and presented the finished article to the mag editors.....now with the internet it's all so ...now.. Pleas excuse me have a degree in stating the flipping obvious...life has recently got in the way of modelling ....my Bertha chassis has been stripped down and strongly resembles yours. I will, resume hostilities in the near future once the finishing touches are done to my wife's Newley redecorated lounge!

thanks for this Mike, I've never got on with the plastic slaters brake shoes....just me I'm afraid...I suppose it's the fear real or not that they will come loose having been secured by glue. The other problem is with the shoes in place it makes it almost impossible to remove the wheel (s) if necessary. I realise when completed the need to remove wheels should be rare .....however the chassis is very much a work in progress....at present the front drivers...lift ...can derail...I believe this is because the present rigid coupling rods are acting as a restraint...forcing this to occur. The kit supplies two rods each side four in total using the centre axle as the only form of articulation. I will show how I attempt to cure this, hopefully that others can learn from my errors.

The new rods have arrived, in the interim have fitted one of the whitemetal brakes supplied. The requirement I have to take off the wheels whilst I am seeking the most felixible arrangement, and keeping in view the need when happy to paint the frames. This has shown when fitted the wm brakes would make this ...difficult to say the least. I have therefore reverted to my usual method of soldering wire rods into the frames. I will then when ready solder brass brakes onto these, after painting of frames. I have just received a set of brake shoes from mainly trains, the LMS set. I feel it appropriate to outline these measures I am taking rather than just build a kit as per the makers instructions....which may look ok...but in reality does not run as I require it. Apologies for these delays, on a positive note the body castings are superb not least those massive cylinders

Set of wd rods ordered from Colin at AGs...

Still not happy with the flexibility of the 010 0 chassis....studying the Hornby railroad 9f. It has a central 060 arrangement off the third driving axle. The two outer rods are riveted in place. I have been contemplating how to do this with the DJH arrangement. I think I will solder a n/ s piece behind the centre set, taking care not to solder the outer rods. I will then drill holes for the rivets....separate the unsolder end pieces...then rivet back in place. I hope this gives the extra flexibility this chassis requires on my radii. My minimum is based on the inner curvature of the peco code 75 point will post the results of this. If this fails I note Alan Gibson sells a set of wd 2 100 rods which have same wheelbase..

This is why I look forward to reading this thread....inspiration, support and sound advice gained through experience...thank you all

one I did earlier....GBL body...comet cab...comet chassis and motion bracket...Stephenson valve gear by Bill Bedford.....constucted as described using brass pins....mesmerising to watch in motion

bertha with one cylinder tacked into place..work started on the valve gear. I blacken one piece with nickel silver metal black....then insert. Brass lace pin and solder.

Just read my last post..the point being made about Hornby and Bachmann 9f chassis was the built in ...flexibility ...on the axles and coupling rods....all of which allows them to sail through my point work whilst Bertha ...bless her....does her best to resemble a beached whale

Whilst on the subject of hands on...currently building a DJH big Bertha....in keeping with my bham based layout..when completed she will trundle through..ex works from Derby to her workplace on the lickey....she will be in ex works condition...lined BR black. Her 010 0 wheelbase has exposed some shortcomings in my fiddle yard approach point work currently being worked on...I have a number of Bachmann and Hornby 9 fs ...the latter a rebuilt crosti..railroad chassis with a golden arrow resin body...now replicated by Hornby themselves...I digress The DJH kit is , and I'm sure this will be confirmed an early example of their work. I have made later types from this range and I can spot the development. The chassis consists of two sturdy brass frames...the squareness courtesy of two screwed in frame spacers. In any event chassis assembled, powered by a high level kits 54/ 1 high flier and big mashima motor....runs very nicely on my test bed. My layout has minimum radii based on the peco code 75 curved point....most of my locos both RTR and home built travel through without incident...the Bertha chassis .and my request for advice..to give the best flexibility I have reduced the bearings on all five axles.....my issue is with the coupling rods. They are single etch two sets of three crank pin holes...using the centre crank pin as a fulcrum....i am thinking of two options using the present rods soldering them onto a nickel silver rear...then separating them in a way that creates a middle o60....with the front and rear rods effectively 040 s thus giving the front and rear axles more flexibility....the other alternatives are buying Alan Gibson wd rods... The same wheelbase.......compensating the chassis....or taking holy orders in a secluded monastery in the Alps....sorry to go on, but if you can't air your problems with fellow modelling nuts..sorry enthusiasts....

Tony since the demise of portescap have used products from comet...high level and markits respectively....I'm not sure which is my favoured make....i have received excellent service from all three manufacturers.....all the gearboxes motor combinations have worked well ....having got over the initial hurdle of being assembled by me.....the only type not yet attempted is the latest comet type and that is on the grounds of cost....not that it wouldn't be worth it...especially as a portescap if still produced would I'm sure be far more pennies...thank you for keeping the " hands on " part of our wonderful hobby being discussed by the excllent modellers who contribute to this post..... Best wishes Brian..

Sadly for some of these wheel makes they've come across me.....