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Always an interesting moment in a garratt build. The three sections running….or not around your corners. The weight was added to replicate the yet to be finished body, without it the unequal balance meant the front chassis derailed. The sandboxes had to be removed from front chassis, for now I hadn’t allowed sufficient clearance , the rear live insulated wheel touched the box whilst negotiating, my corners. It hadn’t previously, but the extra load made the difference. All trial and error, as ever when making any locomotive I have to enable it to go on my layout with its, the layouts, idiosyncrasies . 

Well working on the main body. The instructions are very poor….basically fit 106 to 107 etc. It would help if the parts were numbered, either on the fret or on a diagram. The next stage is always interesting when building a garratt. Having two working chassis, now with painted superstructure…ensuring they pivot when attached to the central body….more soon

Finished the oil tank. No provision was made for the supports clearly seen on tank sides. I’ve fashioned these from brass wire shaped by dremel. I’ve now built a number of garratts, your effectively building three locomotives. It is nice to have a challenge though. It didn’t help that I’ve lost the smokebox door casting. You can gather from the background to my photos my workbench is anything but organised. John R points out I shall probably find it months from now whilst engaged in another project. I have in the meantime made by own, brass rim with rivet detail and fortunately a correct sized LNER smokebox door from my spares.

My interpretation of the top of the oil tank, boiler again posed for effect

John a poignant reminder of DP2. High level worms , had one or two slip. This is often a result of an unintended motion bind , or a markits axlenut  coming loose. The wheel losing its  quartering. I think on one occasion you heard my verbal reaction, even how far we live apart!

Coal/ oil tank taking shape. The top when added, needs to be adapted,  by the addition of filling cap,  and what appear to be vents to replicate its oil firing days

Primer added and first coat of gloss black. I always use gloss for initial cover to allow good adhesion of the transfers when added. I then weather / varnish at tge end

Just finished the water tank assembly. I realised last night I hadn’t fixed in the underside of the tank. Fortunately I was able to remove the tank top and then add the missing piece. This piece had to have a segment removed to allow the second motor.
Lots of detail added. I think the side steps are a little too forward will change tomorrow. Front pony truck temporarily removed,  this allows fixing screw between chassis and tank top. 

With chassis virtually complete, I’ve started work on the front water tank. The kit makes no provision for a second motor in this structure. I have therefore had to remove metal from the baseplate to accommodate. Bits in place to check clearances before soldering. The side view shows how little the motor intrudes into the daylight between the tank sides. I think it acceptable given the extra motor now in place.

Second chassis now completed with cylinders , motion etc, in place. I’m looking forward to attempting the superstructure, will make a change from valve gear rivets and brass pins! 
 

The high level 1219 motors by the way are really superb in this locomotive.

John I believe in its oil firing days the crew deliberately let the smoke drift over a nearby golf club …used by some of the better off brummies….their views to BR made sure it’s tenure at Bromsgrove was short lived.

First chassis virtually complete with motion added. Boiler and front water tank posed for effect. Manna is right this is a big locomotive, I dread to think what the fireman experienced trying to keep this in steam prior to oil firing.

Photos of the work described, just added new cylinder drain pipes replacing the inaccurate white metal ones supplied with kit.

Having achieved two free running chassis, had to remove wheels to paint frames. The wheels restored, white metal brakes now added, in addition the two pony trucks with wheel inserts. Balance weights added to driving wheels, and the two assemblies tested on layout. Of course initially neither ran as well as when first put together. One issue, I found that I had too allow sideplay on the crank pin nuts , on the rear axles. Too tight and they caused a tight spot on my curves. Trial and error resolved this. The next job the cylinders and motion, finally adding sandpipes. 

The second Chassis fitted with pick ups and tested on my layout. It s wired to go backwards as the first one goes forwards. I note that the kit allows for electrical isolation, when the two chassis eventually pivot on the main body assembly.

The first chassis has had the wheels removed, to allow painting of the chassis sides. I didn’t think it would be possible to do this if the white metal brakes were added. These will be added at the same time as the cylinders. One set of valve gear made up, three more to go. I’m in a quandary however, continue with the chassis, motion etc or , make up the front water tank, to check how motor fits. The rear coal/ oil tank assembly has two oval holes in the brass bases to allow motor to fit through. This will have to be replicated on the front base assembly.

Chassis with pick ups added now tootling around the layout under power. There is plenty of sideplay in front and rear axles so no problems staying on my track. 

Road runner Gear boxes, have arrived from High level. The first one made up and 1219 motor fitted. The assembly now installed in first chassis and tested for smooth running.

Further work on two of the cylinders adding the slide bars and rear valves. The kit comes with alternative cross heads, wm or brass. I’ve chosen the brass ones. I’ve temporarily fitted connecting rod and cross head just to evaluate if any trimming needs to be done to the piston rod…slight trim required. I will use it to do the remaining  three. 

Gday Manna

Certainly is…

Second chassis wheeled and free running. The wm castings for the cylinders temporarily in place

The frames clearly have a cut out in them to accommodate a can motor. The instruction sheet recommends an Anchoridge TA12. I’ve just looked it up and it was a can motor, part of Mashima range. I therefore feel it will happily house the high level 1219.

In choosing my motor gearbox combination, I clearly want one that fits, and doesn’t obscure too much of the daylight through the cutouts on bunker sides. It was also relevant to consider,  when finished, the role of this locomotive on my layout. It won’t be required to push/ pull prodigious loads as per the prototype. It will at best travel light engine, as it did in real life between Bromsgrove and the North East. My model of Bertha however, has a working three link coupling, this loco will as well.

I have a “ converter truck” equipped with the same coupling on one end, small tension lock on the other, should I want to see them haul a train. Bertha to her credit, has pulled a thirty plus wagon train, we shall see what this one will do.

Always a nice moment when coupling rods on and you have a free wheeling chassis without tight spots. Chassis well cleaned and visible screw tops filed off before placing wheels and axles into the setup. I still managed to get one non insulated wheel on the wrong side….now corrected.

First chassis under construction. The DJH sides take a lot of heat for the solder to run. , I’ve just invested in a Lonovo soldering station , I think I would struggle with my usual 25 w antex  iron. The DJH sides have tabs and screws however still taking the precaution of using my Poppy’s jig to ensure squareness. It will also be placed on a piece of plate glass as well

Headlamp mk 2 pleased to say stayed in one piece when I removed the old superglue with a mini drill…I think it was worthwhile.

Gday Manna

yes indeed, the DJH kit is of its time …certain features I wouldn’t expect if produced now. White metal brakes for example. The thick brass chassis frames which take a lot of heat to solder. I’m now awaiting the high level gearboxes. I’ve decided to go with the roadrunner fitting the motor vertically into the bunker. It’s not clear from the instructions how the chassis pivot on the central body, always an issue with garratts. It’s going to keep me out of mischief for a while. Looking at my little headlamp I wish I had painted the interior a silver gilt before adding the glazing effect. I’m going to try and remove the superglue and do this…probably end up with it disintegrating into its component parts…