grob1234

Superb 'backscenage' (if there is such a word?!) all round. Probably rather helpful that one is a former art tutor; my attempt would look like the daubing of a mad-man, and only serve to distract the viewer, not compliment the scene!

Hello Tony and Friends, Thank you very much for the advice WRT my tender wheels. I'm working through them now, and there is a definite improvement in conductivity with the coating removed. I just used a track rubber once the axle and wheel were attached in the mini drill to remove the coating, followed by polish with the burnishing brush. I've also found I can get a really nice paint finish on the wheels by also painting them whilst in the drill. It may not be quicker, but its very satisfying, and the finish very smooth. The phoenix precision paints LNER crimson is a beautiful colour. I've fitted the tender pickups prior to adding the wheels, my only concern is that the tender will adopt the annoying 'wobble' it showed during the trial assembly. Hopefully a full assembly, with correct B2B's will be smoother. Cheers, Tom EDIT: looks like that book would be very handy for anyone modelling the pre war period too, assuming much of the infrastructure would have been the same. I also forgot to ask whats happening with the P2?

Lord President looks stunning with those Pullmans.... Tony (or anyone else)... I notice in this post that you're using the same tender wheels on your P2, as I am using on my W1: I intend to fit tender pick ups to this, for obvious reasons, however, the coating on the wheels appears to restrict electrical conductivity. Is it a case of carefully filing off the coating on the bottom of the wheels (where they touch the track) and also the back of the flanges in order for the pick ups to work? I think this could easily be achieved by securing the axle in the end of a mini drill, and rotating at medium speed, and a mild abrasive to remove the coating. I thought I'd just ask before I go and ruin 8 wheels! Many thanks.

Genuinely didn't know that Dave, learn something new every day! Well, I'm sure you will be delighted to know that the HK workbench has been fired up after over 6 weeks with no activity. I'm now a married man to boot, and very happy I am too. Managed to clear some of my work load between flights and this afternoon I made a rather slow start back into modelling. Took me a few minutes to get back into things, but it seems to return fairly quickly. The first job was to solder up the brakes and rods on the W1 tender, and add pads so that I can add tender pick ups. Incidentally, does anyone know how to remove the coating off these wheels... they're Romford tender disc wheels, and the coating restricts the electrical pick up. For some reason, I decided to test the wheels for electrical conductivity with my multi meter before I fitted them - a rare moment of modelling foresight on my behalf!! I could of course give each wheel a gentle file to bare metal but wondered if there was an easier way? Another little job I have been meaning to do is to improve a Hornby J52 I picked up off Ebay. When I ran it for the first time, it was dreadful; jumping about all over the place. When I took it apart I found that the rear axle is sprung (bizarrely, which gives tonnes of slop), which seemed to explain why it was jumping about all over the place. I thought that by removing the springs, that the running would improve. First, I unscrewed the retaining plate, and removed the 2 springs, which sit in the two holes you can just about see. They just fall out really so no need to worry about damaging them. I cleaned up the recess where the axle sits, and super glued a small piece of plasticard strip to bring the wheels level. If you think of the thickness of the springs when compressed, then this is the amount of packing required under the axle for the loco to sit level. I then added a couple of small plasticard strips to the retaining plate, noticing that there was a reasonable gap between axle and retaining plate, again with the aim of reducing slop. Then, I oiled it, re attached the retaining plate, ditched the nasty big Hornby couplings, (I'll replace those with small gauge wire goal post style) and reattached the body. I also got rid of the rubber traction tyres, which had perished anyway. Its now ready for weathering and it runs about a million times better than before. Essentially a ten minute fix. I think this particular chassis is used by Hornby a lot, so if you have a loco with a similar problem, it might be worth taking a look to see whats occurring. Tomorrow, I'll paint the bogies for the C12, and fit the pick ups to the front bogie, and complete the detail painting too. Hopefully I will also wire up the pick ups for the W1 tender, if I'm able to resolve the problem with the wheels. Happily, I have managed to find a source of 2mm insulating washers off Ebay, which I have been looking for for a while now. I'll use them on the 2mm axles supplied by romfords for bogie wheels. I've also been looking into DCC command stations, and am very taken by the ESU ECoS 50200. I love the 'visual' aspect with regards to the track plan. Does anyone have any experience of this controller? See you again tomorrow.

Thank you very much for your informative answer. It definitely helps me to know that you've had on average less than 1 in 600 dropper wires fail per year. That's pretty good statistically! As your evidence suggests, theory is one thing, and maybe the conventional wisdom is to go with soldering, but as you allude; could I achieve a better result than 1 in 600 by soldering upside down, risking blindness and burnt arms?! Probably not, I think for me its decision made with regards to dropper wires and bus connections.

Dear Gilbert, Thank you for continuing to provide us with the lovely updates of your layout. I was wondering if I might ask you a couple of questions.... I'm researching topics here on RMWeb to pick up methods for construction of my own layout in the future. Looking back at the early stages of the construction of PN, I noticed that you used the Scotchlock suitcase type connectors for the bus and dropper wires. I do not wish to start a discussion about wiring practices; ask 10 people the same question and I think you'd come up with about 15 different answers. What I would be very interested to know is what your personal experience has been with these connectors in terms of reliability, now PN has been up and running for a while now. Have you had any failures with them in use? And, if you were starting from scratch again (heaven forbid!) would you use them again? Secondly, I notice you use both Cobalt and Tortoise point motors. Personally, I'm in favour of the Cobalts, as they are smaller, look easier to install and are reputed to be quieter. What are your observations on both types? Sincere apologies if these questions have been asked before, and many thanks in advance for your help. Best, Tom

Perhaps I should have said "the method that I have seen Normon Soloman use".

Just re looked at your layout thread, I really like your methodology. It's the way I'll approach my track laying I'm sure. I was worried the droppers would get in the way and you'd have problems spreading the glue. Your pictures show this is clearly not the case. Top work.

Very interesting thread. I've been researching ballasting options for my proposed layout, 'Bawtry'. I have used the traditional method of spread ballast, wet, and then add glue. It works ok, and my N Gauge layout (link in my signature) is ballasted this way. However, I feel for a bigger OO layout, a different approach would be necessary. One method that I have seen, is a hybrid method. It involves laying the underlay, I'd favour 3mm closed cell foam, with the edges chamfered to create the ballast shoulder. Once the track is painted it is laid over the foam. The first stage is to lay a strip of glue either side of the shoulder to create the cess. Ballast is sprinkled on the wet glue and excess hoovered after 10 mins. Leave to dry overnight. Then paint the shoulders of the foam with glue and again sprinkle ballast onto the glue. Hoover off excess. Once dry, the shoulders form a template to hold the ballast that you spread dry between the rails in the traditional manner. I have not tried the method, but I wonder if it might give more control than doing the whole lot in the standard way? Gordon, with regards to your method, when do you attach the dropper wires for the track? I'd prefer to solder the droppers to the underside personally, I was wondering what you do? Finally, I might like to comment on Norman Solomans method. One poster mentioned the inability to pre solder dropper wires on the rail underside when using his method, due to the fact that the pre drilled holes would fill up with glue. How about preparing the track bed (3mm foam) and dropper wire holes, then, before applying the febond, might it be possible to use a cocktail stick or a small pipe cleaner inserted in each dropper wire hole to prevent the glue penetrating the hole? Before track laying the items could be removed and it would be possible to thread the droppers through, and then ballast using Normans method? I have not tried this by the way, just wondering what others might think? Many thanks for the interesting thread.

Hello Folks, I'm back! The workbench won't be fired up for a few more days, but slowly getting things sorted, and hopefully some modelling will happen towards the end of next week. In the mean time check this small American Club Layout out: (is it a BLT? what is a BLT (not a sandwich))

Really like the look of those Bill Bedford resin coaches. I'm surprised more coaches aren't produced in resin/plastic in the same way that scale model aircraft are produced. Like you say quality doesn't come cheap, and if one makes the comparison between time and cost then all of a sudden the value becomes clear. Sadly, I work full time (when I say "sadly", what I mean to say is that I am grateful for the employment, but it makes my time scarse), therefore, an expensive kit that I can build in a couple of sessions becomes better value than a cheap kit that takes ages to build. The question is, how do we value kits? For example, the coronation set I built probably cost in the region of £500 all told. For this £500 I made 9 carriages; a complete rake. Averaged out, this is around £55 per coach, pretty comparable to RTR. however, it took the best part of 6 months to build, how many hours? I don't know, (lots) it was a work of modelling pleasure, not constrained by the need to turn a profit. What if I needed to charge by the hour if it were a commission? Well, I probably couldn't justify the cost, my modelling time is limited therefore every minute of it would have to be spent on my own projects. If the raw material cost per coach was £55, then my cost per coach would be probably in excess of £300, which seems excessive, but the paint process alone for the exterior finish was approximately 18 separate steps.... My point is that if I could build a rake of 8 of Bills coaches in batch format in a few weeks (reasonable assumption, Tony?) then all of a sudden £80 a pop is pretty good value. Plus they look the nuts too. I'll definitely be ordering some.

Very interesting photo blog, Paul. I especially like the "roller coaster" section with the TGV on it!

Thank you Tony, most helpful. Even though I won't be designing an exhibition layout, I might as well have the most reliable system possible.

Well ladies and gents, I'll be signing out for a month. Small matter of my own wedding to attend, followed by a honeymoon. Sadly no modelling, but I will be returning with avengance in June, with the W1 conversion, completed C12 and a few more projects currently in the planning stage. Until then, happy modelling and see you in June. Tom

Hello Tony, A random and unrelated question from me... What track have you used on the fiddle yard of LB? Peco code 75 or code 100? I'm getting a few points for loco testing purposes (to prevent the issues we had with the little J69) so thought I'd get the ones that I'll likely use on my layout. Many thanks, Tom

That carriage (or coach? I'm never sure) looks the business.... I want some! I'm very surprised there aren't more kits in this format (resin/plastic). They look exceptionally crisp. I'll be interested to see what sort of a job you do on these, Tony.

Dave, you are of course correct! I have looked at countless pictures of C12's, I have the Isinglass drawing, I have W. Yeadons book on the subject, so why the bl**dy hell do I manage to miss such a basic detail!? Drives me insane! I think I'll just cut out a little bit of thin plasticard and stick it on. Shouldn't take a moment. One day I might make something right first time... maybe that's a bit boring though?!

Cheers Mike, I'll give 'em a try.

Just a little update on my models. The lovely J69 is now numbered 7384 (inspired by Granthams J69) and unashamedly copied from Rev Cawstons book, this locomotive may well have run up the line to Bawtry to help out from time to time, so it fits in nicely with my intended layout. Here she is ready for weathering and crew: Another Grantham based loco is the C12. Primed: And now in gloss black. Gloss helps the decals sit down much better, and once you apply the final clear coat, you stand a better chance of getting that 'painted on' look. Also in works at the moment is the substantial SE Finecast W1 tender. Reasonably easy to build so far. Being all white metal, it weighs a tonne! I'll have to scratch build a rear buffer beam as the kit supplied one is a strange fit, and protrudes out from the back of the tender. My own research shows this is not the case. Anyhow, I'm replacing the cast buffers with sprung ones, so its no great hardship. I will be fitting all wheel pick up as well. Does anyone know if the Peco OO-9 washers are suitable for loco bogie/tender axles as well a wagon axles? Finally, I thought you might all be really really (!) interested to see what I use for painting my models: Its a Harder and Steenbeck Evolution 2 in 1. I have had it approximately 8 years now and it get a pretty rough ride. Its called a 2 in 1 because its supplied with a 0.2mm nozzle assembly as well as a 0.4mm version. In addition it has small and large paint cups so its really versatile. Its a fantastic airbrush as not only can you control paint flow, you can also control air flow, enabling incredibly fine control. I like to use it for nearly every situation as the finish is really superior in most cases when compared to brush painting. In the time I've had it, I've only had to replace a few rubber o ring seals. However, I will be treating myself to a couple of replacement needles and nozzles as they do start to suffer over time. A great bit of kit, and something I would highly recommend if you do a lot of painting. TTFN

The back scene blends in really nicely.

Tony, Mr TBG, Thank you very much for the responses. I think I will be able to make a reasonable job of adding small pickups with the 0.45 wire. I like very much the idea of 'live' bogies and ponies, but alas, I don't think I will be able to make this happen on this particular model. I might well bear the technique in mind for future builds however, its something I would never have thought of. Lovely work on the O1's; something very imposing about a big, dirty freight loco plodding along at 20mph.

Yes, you're right, I'll edit accordingly. I'm getting my terminology muddled.

Hello folks, As promised here is a brief review of the 247 developments 6thou spacing washers to convert Romford axles from normal OO gauge spacing to DOGA-fine 14.8mm spacing. They come on a fret of 8, cost £2 a pop, and look like this: Simply add one to each end of the axle: The fit is absolutely perfect.Then add the wheels over the top in the usual manner. The thickness (or lack of) of the washer means there is still plenty for the fixing nut to grab on to. The result is perfect B2B's for DOGA-fine: A really handy little item, which I will be using on all my loco builds. In addition, Gary at 247 was very pleasant to deal with and offered good value prompt postage to HK.

Dear Tony and Friends, Sorry for the brief 'segway' from DCC vs DC, I was just wondering if I could ask a little advice please? I'm very happy with how my C12 chassis runs, however due to the short wheel base I would like to improve pick up by adding pick ups to the bogie. As the chassis is fully insulated, pickups would need to be fitted either side. Do you know of a smart way to fit pick ups here without them being too obtrusive? As you can see, there is not a great deal of space.... Any help/tips greatly appreciated. Oh yes, the comments re the correct number of spokes have been noted, I will replace them when I next place an order with Mark Ascot. Looking on the Markits website, I can see BR15BS, a 3' 9" MR 10 spoke bogie set, would these be suitable?

I can well believe it, certainly weighs enough. I've got 8 Hornby Pullmans on top of the wardrobe, so when its done, I'll try it with those, it should do OK I think. EDIT: Just seen your C12, Dave.I presume it'll appear in BR (E) paint scheme? Smart looking little engines aren't they? Did you get the DCC chip fitted OK with the all insulated wheels? Just noticed, your front lamp irons are at an alarming angle