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Devo63

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Posts posted by Devo63

  1. 27 minutes ago, Ozexpatriate said:

    Also the (once) ubiquitous Aussie "Milk Bar".

    In South Oz these were always "the Deli". We tried to avoid our eastern neighbours variations of language, eg. in SA we eat Fritz while the Easterners eat Devon. One local specialty was the "Pie Floater' which was available from the various bakery owned pie carts located around the city and suburbs of Adelaide - now all gone. At the Adelaide Railway Station pie cart you could enjoy your meat pie drowned in pea soup with an old wino on one side of you and a politician or visiting celebrity standing on the other while cars whizzed by behind you only a couple of feet from your rear end. 

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  2. Until my first year of high school a cap (referred to as 'boys own' type above by Michael)  was a required part of the uniform at the two private colleges I attended. Mine were dark green at the first school and purple at the second. We also had matching coloured blazers which were usually bought a couple of sizes larger to 'grow into'. The caps for most of the colleges were plain, single colour types but Pulteney Grammar School had a concentric navy(?) and white ring ring pattern to them - perfect as a target for gobbing from overpasses and bridges. In senior school we were finally allowed to wear long trousers as part of the grey standard school suit.

    An early memory is of the couple of years after Australia introduced decimal currency. My great-grandfather would give me a two bob coin every time I visited him. I would accompany my father to the bank and exchange it for a brand new twenty cent coin (the old coins remained in circulation for years) and would buy bags and bags of sweets at the general store. It wasn't until years later that I found out my father would reclaim the two shillings from the bank manager and gave it back to my GGF when we next went to see him for a repeat performance.

    The things I miss the most from the era are the many corner grocery stores and little hardware shops etc. that have been driven out of business by the large conglomerates. There was one local hardware shop, still labeled as an ironmongers, which closed down in the mid seventies. In the back corner was a couple of shelves stocking a supply of various Triang bits and bobs, a selection of Airfix plastic kits and a rack of Humbrol paints.

     

    Dave R.

         

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  3. I have cast a fair amount of metal parts over the years using both RTV and plaster moulds. RTV is great for complex shapes that may require undercuts etc. to the parts whereas plaster is handy for simple pieces. RTV is best if you need a large number of copies of a part. Plaster moulds only give you a few castings before they are no longer any use.   

    I make a simple card container (sometimes the bottom of a milk carton will do) and place a layer of plasticine in the base into which I press the master. At this stage I use some scrap plastic or wood to make basic pouring gates. They nearly always need adjustment to get the metal to flow properly but doing it this way cuts down on some of the carving later. 

    I pour over the RTV or plaster to make one half of the mould and then allow it to set completely. I have a small hand vacuum pump which I use to suck out air bubbles from the mix before it sets. 

    Once set everything is removed from the container and the half completed mould can be placed back in ready for the other half to be poured. Be careful not to dislodge the master when removing the plasticine. I use a simple light oil spray to stop the second half of the mould bonding to the first but there are probably better products around for this. I forgot to do this on one plaster mould and had to chisel out the master and start again when it all bonded together.

    RTV moulds can be used almost straight away but I usually give them a clean before I first attempt a pour. The plaster variety need to set very hard and be devoid of moisture before you can cast. I sometimes bake plaster moulds in an old toaster oven at about 80°C to make sure they are thoroughly cured.

    I still have a couple of kilograms of casting metal in twelve inch rods that I bought a few years ago from a local war gaming and model supply shop which is sadly no longer in business but I have located another casting supply shop when I eventually need to buy some more. I do most of my casting in the back shed or the carport using a small gas camping stove ring and a small ladle I acquired in the dim, distant past. Also, as recommended above, I have safety goggles and leather gardening gloves for a bit of protection. I dust the inside of the mould with talc and clamp a pair of thin plywood sheets to either side of the mould to provide support and then start casting. It sometimes takes a couple of pours before the mould has heated up sufficiently for even distribution of the metal and you may need to cut more air channels in the mould to get a better flow. Any failures can go back in the ladle.

    I have been doing this off and on for the last 30+ years. I have had a fair few failures but these are outweighed by the many successful castings I have made.

    One last quick note - there is sometimes a bit of shrinkage to the castings when cooled compared to the original master. This is usually most noticeable on larger parts such as boilers etc. and allowance may need to be made when crafting the master. Some of the modern casting metals don't seem to shrink as much as the older types but it is something to be aware of. 

     

    Dave R.      

     

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  4. The Kitmaster interiors haven't been printed since the early 1960's but they do still pop up on a well known auction site from time to time, sometimes at ridiculous prices. I still have a number of unused kits of all four types that my father bought back when they were first released for use with the Kitmaster models. These days if I want interiors for models I photocopy them onto thin card and use the copy instead.

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  5. The March 1968 MRC has plans for 'GWR brick-built signal box at Torre'. The front and left elevations are at 4mm scale and the rear and right are at 2mm scale. it is quite a large (tall) box but I have adapted the plans in the past for smaller scratch built versions. If you can't find a copy elsewhere drop me a PM and I'll send you a scan.

  6. I don't think the Special DX Goods is a GEM model. I have a feeling it was from the M&L Premier Kit range. From memory, they also made a number of other LNWR locos - possibly a 5'6" 2-4-2T, an 0-4-0ST and 'Cornwall' both as a regular tender engine and the inspection saloon variation. I have about half a dozen GEM LNWR kits built/building at present. My GEM 4'6" 2-4-2T no.2504 is to be redecorated as Cardiff Railway 'The Earl of Dumfries' when I can find out more information about the lining etc. I don't know if it carried the LNWR lining in Cardiff service or a simplified variant.  

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  7. 4 hours ago, Rugd1022 said:

     

    There can't be many of his generation left now.

     

     

    Dame Olivia de Havilland is still going at 103.

     

    Kirk Douglas always seemed to excel in his movies. Some of my favourites are 'Lust for Life' where he played Vincent van Gogh  and Kubrick's 'Paths of Glory'. I also liked him in the western parody 'The Villain' in which his Cactus Jack character always fails in his attempts to steal the money from the heroine using various tricks straight out of Loony Tunes cartoons.  

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  8. I've had a similar problem with this model which I bought new when they first came out. It ran well for many years before the power problems started. The wheel quartering was the next problem as the plastic gear and spacers packed up with the loco then spending a fair amount of time as a siding decoration.

     

    A couple of years ago I purchased replacement spacers and gears from Peter's Spares and completely disassembled the chassis, cleaning everything thoroughly before reassembly. Adding a new set of brushes and springs to the motor has made it run again just like new although it is not up to the quality of the updated Bachmann model.

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  9. Three elderly brothers, Tom (96), Dick (94) and Harry (92) shared a house together. Tom was in the bathroom and had just placed one foot into the bath when he had a sudden loss of memory. He called out to his brothers for help saying he could not remember if he was getting into the bath or out of it. Dick started to climb the stairs to help him but tripped half way up. Sitting on the stairs he asked his brothers if he was heading up or going down. Harry sitting in the kitchen said to himself " Those two have lost it." rapping the table with his knuckles he mumbled "Knock on wood, I'll never get as forgetful as them". Rising from his chair he shouted to his brothers " I'll be with you in a moment to help you both but first I need to check who is knocking on the front door".

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  10. I was wondering how common a problem I've had with K's tender drives is and if anyone has had the same problem. I have four of these (for many, many years) and only recently noted that the pick-ups on all of them were wired up to run the reverse of the bulk of my RTR and kit built models. Some of them I bought new back in the 70's which only goes to show how often I've used them. 

    Two of them were still in the boxes in which they had left the factory, still wrapped in the original tissue paper, with the other pair fitted to an old modified Kitmaster City of Truro (a very nice conversion to a Badminton) and a Stirling Single which I had bought second hand a long time ago.

    Over the last few days I have corrected them to run the 'right' direction when power is supplied. Three of them were quite easy as they had two white metal castings held together with self tapping screws. All I had to do was flip the wheels sets from one side to the other and solder on new pick-ups. 

    The last one had a heavier one piece casting with the axles held in place by two brass rods soldered to the base - probably and earlier product from K's and maybe kit built. As I didn't want to dismantle the whole thing I managed to pull all the wheels from the axles and swap sides, finishing with re-soldering the pick-up into place.

    Was this the common way these left the factory or have I managed to find four wrongly assembled drives?

     

    Dave R.    

  11. I'm still interested in the history of no. 35 in the above photo. As I mentioned, it looks to be a Sharp Brothers product. Unfortunately my collection of information for the LNWR is very poor compared to my GWR library but I do have a bit of a soft spot (and I don't mean a bog) for the trains heading north from Euston.

  12. 12 minutes ago, Compound2632 said:

    Are we talking about E.B. Wilson / David Joy Jennies here - of which I don't think the LNWR had any - or pre-Problem LNWR 2-2-2s in general, in which case the outside-cylindered, heavy front framing, Crewe Type dominates?

     

    5&9 models did a kit for the genuine Jenny. Although noted as discontinued, I gather there is some possibility of it coming back. The major buyers of Jennies were the London & Brighton and the North Midland, and their successors.

     

    Pretty much all these early companies were painting their engines green, so your fictitious second-hand purchaser need not be too particular about specifying where their Jenny came from.

    The LNWR Southern Division had the two Wilson/Joy 'Jenny Lind', nos 208 & 209, mentioned in my previous post. They were standard 'off the shelf' designs from this company of which over 70 were built for various railways. There were also very similar locomotives built by various other manufacturers.

     

    I keep hoping that Chris of 5&9 does bring the Jenny kit back as I've always wanted to build a model of the West Midland Railway (OW&W) 'Will Shakspere' (note spelling). As mentioned most of these early locos were supplied painted green with some of them having the flutes in the dome and safety valve picked out in other colours such as red. 

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  13. Southern Division nos. 208 & 209 were both 'Jenny Lind' type 2-2-2's delivered in 1848 by Wilson's. The same year they supplied 2-2-2's  201 to  204 to the Sth Div. These were outside cylinder locos of a similar design nicknamed 'Jenny Red Legs'. A quick check through my references has not come up with any on the Northern Division but I stand to be corrected.

     

    Edit to add: The photo of no. 35 above could be a Sharp 2-2-2 delivered in the late 1840's. A lot of the fittings seem similar to the drawing of no. 4 from the Locomotive Magazine reproduced in the Mike Sharman book 'The London North Western Railway' from Oakwood Press. 

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  14. I managed to get all the usual groans and eye rolling when I asked if anyone wanted to pull my cracker. My darling little niece (16) then broke up the entire family group by saying it probably would not be worth pulling anyway!  

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  15. The time is upon us to appreciate the skillful way in which the wordsmiths of the great cracker making consortiums of the world entertain us with their use of the English language. I'll start off with the first batch of witticisms I have seen this Festive Season. 

     

    ( Disclaimer: This thread is for those jokes which are so corny they shouldn't even be posted in the regular jokes thread.)

     

    What carol is heard in the desert?

    O Camel Ye Faithful

     

    What do you call a man with a pole in his leg?

    Rodney 

     

    What goes up and never comes down?

    Your Age

     

    Why did the scarecrow get a promotion?

    Because he was outstanding in his field

     

    What do Santa's little helpers learn at school?

    The elf-abet

     

    What do you give a person who has everything?

    Antibiotics

     

    Merry Christmas to everyone.

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  16. Much to the annoyance of my long suffering mother, each Christmas my father (84 YO) and I sit down to watch a marathon of Will Hay movies usually starting with "Oh, Mr Porter". Dear old Mum tends to make herself scarce at these times by going to 'read a book' which means she has a long snooze with the two cats. 

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