NSE Mule

I have made some good progress with the door. First stage was to remove one of the air grids and replace it with a sealed sheet of MDF to make the levels flush. I want to preserve the door as much as I can (I don’t know why?!) so have covered it in vinyl, should I ever want the door back in original condition.

Haha, I know what you mean, I grew up on a farm so am hoping that my immune system is up to scratch!! I’ve washed it as much as I can. I have really enjoyed the challenge and really hope I can get to use the handle! I love the sound all of that, but sadly have very little idea on most of it. I’m using the Z21 so was not sure how much could get that all to talk to each other. My crude thought was running some kind of (Lego style) chain drive between a modified Roco Multimaus controller dial and the rotating door handle. Any other way using a Raspberry and JMRI would need a lot of help from people with that knowledge, anyone out there?

I have looked into how I could use it. I struggled for a track plan in 00 imagine in G scale!!!

It turns out I need not have worried about the number of plastic frogs. Even with basic wiring everything works fine, so I had a little play. I am still waiting for the wire and tube to arrive in the post, then I can work out what height of cork I need to level things out.

Haha, cheers

It was lying around spare so I thought ‘why not’

Here is a rough idea of how the layout will look. The long wall at the back will be a carriage shed wall and possibly have very dirty windows. The DMU stabling shed walls will hide the fiddle road entrance.

Toilet door fluff anyone?

Well where do I start? I guess by saying welcome to what will be my first proper layout. The Door. Originally I travelled up to Norfolk to pick up a pair of GWR HST first class seats, but seemed to also purchase a single first class table and a MK3 toilet door. Now, I knew what I wanted to do with the chairs and possibly the table, but the door, well, can you consider it an impulse buy? No idea what I was going to do with it, but it just fit in the car with the chairs and table so I took it. Since then it’s stood around doing nothing, until now. Layout ideas. Being a 50 fan, a layout was always going to contain them. Quite early on I decided to focus on eventually modelling Salisbury, mainly because of the numerous loco changes that would happen there. The date, between 1990-1992, the 50s seemed to be being withdrawn at an ever increasing rate, the introduction of ‘more reliable?’ 47/7s and the real unsung heroes, the 33 that stood in and seem to rescue everything. Now, Salisbury station is huge, and with even modest modifications you need a large space, something up until now, I have not had. So late last year I decided to base a layout on Old Oak Commons refuelling shed, this would allow me to (with a bit of modellers licence) run my stock on it whilst I wait to go forward with Salisbury. Pricing up ready made boards, whilst reasonably priced, they were quite a bit, and one night I looked at the door and thought, it’s strong enough, it’s a bit small, but it would be pretty cool, and unique to build something on that. After a very thorough deep clean and removal of many years of fluff from the vent area (don’t even want to think about it) I lay it on the floor and started to lay down some track to see what would fit. Track Plan. In readiness for the Old Oak layout idea I had a shed scratch built so have used that as the main focus. For track, I will be using Peco code 100, I would like to do code 75, but I have a range of mid radius points from my last dabble with model railways almost 30 years ago! The track plan is not particularly realistic, and some would say contains too much track, but it’s made up of a dead end three road refuelling shed at one end and a small four lane DMU/ loco stabling area at the other. This part also used to be a shed but the roof has since been removed allowing the wall to be a natural break for the single line fiddle yard at the back. From the outset I want to try and keep as many of the doors features as possible. My plan is to cover the layout side of the door with vinyl, so I can return the door to it’s original state for when their value sky rockets in the future! Due to the doors construction, sinking point motors into it is almost impossible so I am looking to using the ‘wire in pipe’ method for point control. The craziest idea has to be one from my mum, who asked why could I not use the door handle to make the trains move! This is genius! If almost impossible to work out! (If any one has any DCC ideas please let me know!) the use of the handle also reduces the available space on the board, but would be awesome if I can get it to work! I don’t know how quick it will be to make, but if you have been Engaged with my toilet door layout idea (ba boom wish!) please follow on for the ride and let me know what you think, especially if you have an idea on converting that door handle!! Cheers, Rich.

I just have a crazy idea of trying to attach a handle by some kind of mechanical method to a DCC controller to imitate a locomotive power handle.

Awesome, thanks so much for that info Mark, hope it goes back easily together!

Thank you Mark, so what does the dial attach to?

A weird question but does anyone know if the power dial on the Roco multimaus comes off easily, and if it does, what kind of attachment is it? **I hold no responsibility for broken Multimaus controllers from here on in

Yes, I know of the post with the step by step conversion, it's really handy. This will be my first ever attempt at modifying any of my rolling stock so quite nervous with the thought of attacking a very good model with a blade and filler Just looking for an appropriate priced second 153 before I start. As for the livery, I think it will need a full repaint (another first for me!!) as I actually think it will be easier looking at photos and the original Hornby 155 (as a rough reference).

That would be an interesting comparison.

Yes, I have no other second-generation DMUs to compare with. It's funny that I thought it felt squat even before I placed it on some track.

Thanks for your response. I have very limited stock to compare it too, but just felt it looked a bit squat when I took it out of the box the first time. I do have the Hornby/Dapol 155 but I know comparing them together is wrong for starters, especially as the older model is far too long in the body. The things I have compared it too (which I thought would be the nearest thing) is a Bachmann 4TC and a Bachmann Mk2. The door end connections on the 4TC are massive compared to the 153 and the roof height does look much bigger. Against the Mk2 whilst there appears to be a height difference it's not as noticeable. I've tried to add attachments to show examples but the site won't let me. I am going with the original sprinter livery as I am planning (no idea when it will happen!!) model Salisbury station in 1990-92 where the 155s were used on the Weymouth services. How did you find converting the 153s?

I recently got my hands on a second-hand regional railways Class 153, the idea is to purchase another to convert back into a 155 as the original Hornby (I think originally Dapol?) 155 does not look right at all. This is the first time I have seen a Hornby 153 and whilst it looks stunning it seems to sit a bit low? or is a bit squished height wise? Which is ironic as the original Hornby 155 body looks way too tall? Anyone else think this?

Hi, Whilst doing a bit of research on Landore depot a came across this thread. I recently had the opportunity to shoot and create a high-resolution virtual tour of Landore depot months before it's closure, whilst I was there they were repairing the penultimate HST power car before the doors finally closed on locomotive repairs. I thought the contributors of this thread may be interested in the tour which can be seen here: http://createdbyrich.com/landore/ Thanks.

That is the best looking 'N' 50 I have seen! Lovely stuff

Great, thank you. Ordered the above system for use on the outer coaches of my rakes.

Great, thanks Phatbob.

Could anyone advise me on the best Kadee coupler to go into the Bachmann Mk2 to get the correct height? I have tried a #20 which seems the correct length but it sits too high?

I have 47710 waiting to have the same treatment done to it, but why bother now? 47706 purchased 47710 to now be resprayed as NSE 47708 Nice one Kernow

Hi Ian, Great to meet you, Paul and Tidworth yesterday. The quality of the layout is outstanding and truly inspirational especially as I'm planning that same NSE period. Also apologies for the prototypical failure of 50031 (sound wise), the walks did me good though If you ever need a helper when exhibiting down this way then feel free to give me a shout, may have the 4TC kit built by then.